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Pete K.

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About Pete K.

  • Birthday 03/26/1956

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  1. Nino, I've had this problem in several pre-1930 cars. I have found if I drain out half of the 600 Wt. oil and add back the remainder with STP oil treatment, it will make close to a 1200 Wt oil and seems to do the trick. Others may have a much smarter idea, so let's wait and see. --Pete.
  2. Hi Mike, I've got a VERY old 17" X 6" straight through on my '25. All is surface rust but it seems to do the job OK when engine is running. I plan to replace it with a similar one Rich and Mattml430 speak of.
  3. Same exact fan on my '25 Tourer Mike. I can't find any signs of cracks on mine either but I sure am listening to the guys on this thread.
  4. I wanted to mention, a half-inch of steering wheel play in your car doesn't sound bad at all in my book. Am I mistaken here? What say you all?
  5. To answer your question, the STP "Oil treatment" comes in little blue 15 ounce plastic bottles.It is honey colored, very thick like cool molasses, sold about everywhere. The 140 -to- 190 gear lube is thick, dark smelly oil. Usually comes in a tall,32 Oz. white plastic bottle with a pointed spout at top. Sold at every auto store and some department stores. Some owners of early cars use straight STP, no mixing with anything else. PS- I really don't think the lube in your steering box is the culprit. check the steering sector shaft/gear. sounds like that may be dried with old grease and steering box lube is not reaching those bushings. All the above options of lube are good ones in this thread.
  6. One option is straight STP. Been using it in all my old cars for years with perfect results. I use it with a combination of 140 Wt. gear lube in the transmissions and differentials. 2 thirds STP, 1 third gear oil.
  7. The two major factors are the height of the saddle to the body and the angle, if any. My '25 has an angle needed since the mounting socket is right on the curve of the tub. My saddles need to be "way up" high for the top bow to miss the spare tire on rear of car. This is imperative since the bow will break if the weight of the top is touching the spare and while driving, a bump in the road will exponentially increase the stress factor on the bows, whereas the bow may even break over the spare, not to mention damage to the top irons. That top is fairly heavy. My guess is around 1923-'24, the saddle mounting sockets were located at the curved corner of the rear body and the saddles themselves had a mounting bolt at the very bottom of each left and right saddle bracket. I was lucky enough for Ray White to sell me his pair of '25 saddles with the bolting at the bottom but they were not made for a U.S. Dodge body. They were for an Australian bodied tourer without an angled mounting bolt. This issue can be engineered to work OK, whereas the "Ford Model A" saddles are NOTHING like Dodge saddles and will take custom made mounting rods (bolts) for the '25 and others. In the end, there is nothing to hold each separate bow either, you would have to just bundle them together and belt them up, don't know if the much heavier Dodge top would survive the ride and could cut the top fabric also. Ford tops were MUCH lighter. I've had them.
  8. The Ford flywheel can be lightened by shaving the driving face of the flywheel and they also need to cut the same depth for the single disc pressure plate ass'y. I'm still trying to wrap my head around a Dodge flywheel with the multiple disc clutch, which I think maybe the years you listed have the Multi-disc set up like my '25 has? A lightened flywheel has nothing to do with increasing the RPM's. The operation of the fuel given to the engine determines that. Lightening will give a bit more pep, "off-the-line". The down side may be to almost stop, to down shift more often when taking corner streets and the like. Good luck with your hard work.
  9. John, Your Dodge floorboard tag number seems to check out to be built around July 15th, 1926 "Series", but IS a1925 Dodge. Funny, my '25 Dodge is # A388850. Built about a week later I would estimate. My engine number is not legible but it sure is a '25 engine from what I can see from the photo. (interesting coil mount you have there).
  10. I stand corrected Ray, as you did state earlier your car body was Aussie made and saddle holes were filled in. Your saddles appear tall enough to keep top off my spare in rear but I still need to fix the angle of mounting pin as yours are straight, as I need about a 15 degree angle pin. At least I would have "real" saddles instead of my Frankenstein saddles I'm making from scratch. I'll send off an Email to you soon Ray.
  11. Tony, That is one nice Dodge Brothers roadster! I've worked with phosphor bronze before and it is tough. You shed a multitude of info here, explaining to my thoughts why Ray White's saddles are "straight" mount (see picture WAY back on page 1) relating to his English bodied Dodge. The corner mount type, (as my car), have a cast-in angle mounting ON the saddle as I believe I once saw which is why there is a left and a right saddle.
  12. Well those are interesting. The top saddle drawing shows the saddle must have slid into a keyed type mount on the car. I never saw one like that, nor have I seen a coil spring incorporated with a saddle like the bottom picture.
  13. I want to thank you all for your input on this 8 year thread! I can't agree with you more Ray! Mike, That's a funky saddle. Still too low though but OK if you ditch the spare! (I thought that car looked familiar). ---30DodgePanel, I don't think that's a Dodge, but those old saddles look high enough. I believe it is a 1924 REO. ThreePedals, Thanks, I couldn't get this picture of my Dodge the way you have done to show the angle I've been harping about. The listing is also invaluable for the part numbers even though they don't jive with Mike's listing (here we go again!) Reproducing them would be a phenomenal undertaking! Cast would be risky, need to be forged iron since there's a "ton" of force put upon the T handle to lock down the bail and the point of mounting takes a ton of weight from that blumin' top, especially when one hits a "bump" in the road! Best of luck, I shall pray for you and your efforts.
  14. Hey JayG, Thank you very much for those images. I have to admit, they appear to be at a slight angle, but the bottom image shows the "lowest" bow sitting at a right angle to the saddle. Hmmm... I found an old set of '22(?) Roadster saddles (305R &305L) Are they even Dodge? Maybe, The lower bow doesn't seem to want to sit at the slightest angle in them. The images that ThreePedals posted shows what appears to be right angles saddle -to-body. The saddles Ray W. has were never on his Dodge and the car is gone now. He also related his Dodge body was a custom job and had no body sockets installed. Is there ANYONE on this site that has a 1925 touring with the correct saddles??????? Meaning have you used them and do saddles keep your top off the spare?? I'm still working with Ray, but England has the highest postal rates in the WORLD. It would bring my total cost over $400. Anyone got a really sturdy BOAT?
  15. That is a great idea Franklinman. I was also thinking of the stained glass folks, where do they get their panels, since many stained glass designs have clear beveled panels surrounding them. I've also seen clear beveled glass rectangular panels about the same size as that window in front doors in inexpensive cabinets in places like Walmart, target, etc...
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