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Everything posted by R.White

  1. Sorry Wayne. I seem to remember including them with the car when I sold it. Ray.
  2. Hi Pete. Just to correct something. My tourer was imported from Australia where it was bodied. It may or may not have had saddles fitted in the past but I found no evidence of any mounting points. It is entirely possible that if any had been there they could have been either removed or covered up when the car body was restored. I bought my saddles from Iola U.S.A. about 9 years ago. They both have the number 436 (raised) but there is no name. I have checked and the total price including shipping was £222.16. They were incomplete but I have made a missing expander 'end' and extended the threads on two new 5" x 3/8" BSW bolts. Both saddles are now complete and working. If you wanted to fit saddles like mine with a straight 3/4" shaft, I think you would need to ensure that the mounting tubes are set at a suitable angle. They also need to be a fairly snug fit to enable the expander to grip when the bolt is tightened. Please let me know if you are still interested. If they can fit your car I would like you to have them. Ray.
  3. With respect; I think they are one and the same car. Ray.
  4. Something needs to be done about the cost of shipping. Here in the U.K. great store is being placed on a "trade deal" between our countries. There would not be much point in slashing tariffs if it still costs a fortune to send and receive goods.. Brexit has meant we really, really need to establish better trading conditions with the rest of the World. There are huge potential benefits to being an independent Nation so the U.K. had decided to walk away from the restrictive E.U. We had better start getting serious about International trade...and soon!!! Ray.
  5. Hi Pete. I have tried sending you a PM but it won't allow me to send a message. I have tried to Pete Kesting./ Pete K/ Peter Kesting etc. but no go. You can email me: raywhite750@btinternet.com Cheers Ray.
  6. I have the 18th edition. It covers 1926 but there are some older pictures used.
  7. Hi Pete. Is there no private message function now?
  8. The image may be an artist's impression, I don't know, but there doesn't appear to be any offset.
  9. Hello again Pete. I will need to look into it having never posted anything to the States before. Please bear with me. I will be back in touch again in a few days. Kind regards, Ray.
  10. Hello Ron. Yes, I had to part with my DB and I am not entirely sure I did the right thing. I was under pressure from swmbo to move it on and get something more "sporty" that she could enjoy driving too. I still have my Austin Swallow saloon but that is now joined by a 1949 MG TC. Unfortunately, the car was mutton cleverly disguised as lamb and requires a total rebuild including a new body. The DB went to auction as there was no interest privately. I have no idea who bought it but they got an absolute bargain. I hope you and yours are keeping safe and well! Ray.
  11. Good morning to you Pete. Yes, it has been over a year now since the DB and I parted company but although I had bought the top saddles from a guy over your side of the Pond I never fitted them. The reason I didn't fit them was because it would have meant disturbing the interior leather and cutting holes in the body as it had never had top saddles fitted. You may remember this is not a standard body but a coach built version carried out by a firm in Sydney Australia. I had more pressing issues as you may remember! These top saddles were sold to me as Dodge Brothers but I found out early on that if I wanted to fit them then I would need to fabricate some steel tubes set into the body at an angle or the bows would not fit because - as you say - the curve of the body. If you don't have tube type fittings that are set at the correct angle then you would need to fit them. What d'ya think? Ray.
  12. Hi Pete. It's been a while! I no longer have the car but I still have the top saddles. Would you be interested in them? Ray.
  13. Hello John. I am saddened to hear your news and to be honest, I really don't have the words; except to say if you can manage to stay focussed on your projects, then I believe it will help. Kind regards, Ray.
  14. Do your valve lifters have a flat contact surface or is there a radius? A flat surface has the effect of opening the valve fully for longer. The longer the inlet is open the more mixture that can be drawn in. The later the exhaust opens the more time there is for the combustion to work. ( Like in a good pub; the more one can imbibe the better! ) One of the tweaks that Austin Seven owners have resorted to in an attempt to improve performance is flattening the radius of the valve lifters. A further improvement can be made if slightly stronger valve springs are fitted. It is all marginal but something is often better than nothing. Ray.
  15. I have kept all my late Dad's box spanners for precisely this sort of problem. It is surprising how often the old stuff comes in handy! Ray.
  16. You can never take anything for granted. I wonder what other marvels you will discover before this car is finished?🤠 Ray.
  17. Mick. In the USA the term for a gudgeon pin is a wrist pin. Regards your c/r. I would be reluctant to exceed 5 : 1 for fear of knocking. Ray.
  18. Here the pin has worn a groove into the keeper preventing the valve from rotating on it's seat which I believe is what it should do.
  19. I recently replaced the valves and guides in my 1926 Dodge 4 engine. They have a similar valve stem arrangement but instead of slots they have holes in which short round pegs can be fitted using a pair of needle nosed pliers. I have never much liked split collets and find them a bit fiddly. Ray.
  20. I have often needed to resort to aluminium casting repairs and have found Lumiweld low temperature welding rods to be useful. Perhaps there is a use for the low temperature repair method on your engine? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lumiweld-10-Rod-Kit-Low-Temp-Aluminuim-Repair/251790178535?hash=item3a9fdd38e7:g:M5kAAMXQNbxRe6gm Ray.
  21. Mike. I am sorry to hear your health is so bad. I do worry when I hear people say they do their own two pack paint at home without the proper equipment. I will only ever use cellulose for DIY and then always wear a decent mask. As to the London to Brighton run; I have dreamed of doing this challenge since I was a kid but the prices just keep going up and up. I never seem to catch up enough to afford one. I thought I would stand a chance when I sold my Dodge Brothers tourer but it only made £11,000 (H & H classic car auction). I have some savings but then I have the withering criticism her in doors to consider. Please let me know what you decide to do. PM me if you want. Re the plating kits. The "wands" that are supplied are simply plastic handled anodes covered in a small piece of foam rubber as shown in my photo. When the electric charge is on you soak the wand in the solution and wipe over the metal surface. Constant rubbing action causes the foam rubber to disintegrate so I have taken to making my own wands. Mr Gateros was very helpful and on hand with any problems. It was he who suggested I make my own wands. My only reservation with doing DIY plating is that it doesn't seem to keep it's shine for years on end like a professional job - but then you only get what you pay for I suppose. Ray.
  22. There seems to be a patch in each of the four corners of the rad.? I would hope a restorer could effect a repair that obviates the need for them. I think It would certainly improve the look if the radiator was tidied up; indeed, I notice that the core appears not to be square with the surround. However, I appreciate that not everyone thinks the same as me and that to some the car is merely showing signs of it's age. I think you are to be commended for returning the car to how it might have presented originally. Ray.
  23. https://www.gaterosplating.co.uk/plating-kits Mike. Here is a link to the electro plating kit suppliers. I have only had success with small items using a brush kit. When I attempted to do my radiator shell I found that when I took a break for lunch and returned to the work, there was a definite "line" where I had restarted. I eventually handed it over to Derby Plating who did a fine job. With regard to the radiator neck, I made sure that the underside was cleaned back to brass so the solder would take. I then tinned both surfaces before final assembly. I don't know if other plating kits are any better than the one I used. The only criticism I would make is that is that the wands are not really up to doing a lot of parts and I ended up making my own. I am sure you will be easily able to adapt the equipment to suit your needs. (BTW are you doing Brighton this year? If you need a passenger let me know. Cheers. Ray.)
  24. Hello Mike. I have been following with interest. When I replaced the neck of my radiator I used microfibre cloths soaked in water to protect the solder that I feared could melt and give me even more problems. I think you are wise not to attempt removal of the shell. I think this is a specialist job. Personally, I would pay to get the shell repaired professionally; an expensive item in any restoration but worth every penny to get it looking it's best. Ray.
  25. Perhaps this will help. Mike's area is not affected ....yet! https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/visiting-woods/tree-diseases-and-pests/key-threats/sweet-chestnut-blight/
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