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Everything posted by R.White
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The Lexus IS a marvel of new technology and far more sophisticated for the likes of me! So far I have only been a passenger in the car.! The previous owner was particularly fastidious and so the car has come to us in unbelievable condition. When advertised by the Lexus dealer I knew the car was exactly what I wanted so I bought it unseen. The Lexus dealer drove it 210 miles from Poole in Dorset to our home in Derby and took our Vauxhall Mokka 4x4 in part exchange again sight unseen. The Mokka had only covered 10,000 miles from new so again the Dealer and I did a clean, fair, no haggle deal on the basis of trust... We are both happy with the deal.? Ray.
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? I must say I am surprised that there have been so few responses to the Dodge family history in England - especially when the research has gone back as far as it does? ? Thanks very much to all who have responded.? Ray.
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Thanks Mike. I have managed to get Jean off my case by buying her a Lexus. It is as new with 28,000 miles. A 3.5 litre petrol/electric hybrid 4x4 RX 430 H top of the range. Peace at last! ? Ray.
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Hi Mike. Stockport is just over 50 miles from here. An attractive run up through the Peak District. I am tempted to make a Pilgrimage in my Dodge. I doubt the good people of Offerton will have seen a Dodge Brothers car!! Ray.
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For a second time in 40 years Halliday Hill Farm, a 15th century farmhouse, has been threatened by a new road development. http://www.dodgefamily.org/HallidayHill/HallidayHillPhotos.shtml https://www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk/news/local-news/dodges-want-show-down-over-1102351 Fortunately, the scheme has been defeated.... https://www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk/news/greater-manchester-news/controversial-477m-m60-link-road-14832120 Ray.
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Very good, Keiser 31. It's a surprise to me that the Brothers chose the intertwined triangles as their emblem rather than their family Crest .? I suppose at the time the DB emblem looked more modern and smart than the 'old world' Coat of Arms.? We shall probably never know for sure. Ray.
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Yes, I still have my Dodge. I didn't get any interest so I have taken it off the market. Everyone I see, without exception, says the car is "beautiful". I think that is probably why there are no takers. It looks like a wedding car and these days that market tends to be limited. I'm quite happy to keep hold of my car and am quite relieved in a funny sort of way.? Ray.
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For those who may not have realised, the Dodge family have an interesting ancestry in England http://www.pittdixon.go-plus.net/dodge/dodge.htm Ray.
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A guy I know with a Dodge Brothers tourer like mine recently had the retaining pin come out of the top sliding gear . Perhaps your sticking gear also has a loose pin? Ray.
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REPORTS ON A 1914 HUMBERETTE RESTORATION
R.White replied to Mike Macartney's topic in Our Cars & Restoration Projects
Great thread, Mike! Loving the Humberette!! Have you considered using cross wires in tension? I have seen this done before somewhere but can't recall where. -
We don't have skunks here in Blighty but we do have some low life who smell just as bad. Especially in a heat wave.!?
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Above my pay grade, I'm afraid. Sorry. Ray.
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The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL
R.White replied to Taylormade's topic in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
I would contact the radiator shop and see what they have to say. Considering they checked out the rad and gave it the O.K. I would expect them to fix it for free. -
Sorry Paul, I am not sure what your problem is. "One of the axle nut threads on my housing is screwed up". Would you be able to give a little more detail as to what is wrong and what you want to do about it please.? Ray.
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With the top of the guide now broken I don't think you will get an even pull on it so I suggest try pulling it out through the top. Take care not to bruise the block face though. It will pull out. No need to use a cold chisel. Why take the risk? These blocks are more fragile than they seem. Don't forget to measure the new guides. If they are oversize you could easily split the block pulling them in. I needed to machine mine to fit. Ray.
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Looking for radiator for 1924 Dodge Bros
R.White replied to Eclector's topic in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
They look like a really professional shop, Mike. My only reservation would be the distance involved. I won't ever complain about going a bit further to get stuff done again.? -
Hi Paul. What I did was to make up a puller using a tube; a long nut and bolt, and a couple of thick washers. The guides, I imagine, will come out either way but I wanted to avoid marking the top of the block so I pulled them down. I don't think they are in any way part of the block but the ribs along their length make them a tight fit. Once you get the first one out the others will be easy, I'm sure. Ray.
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I was advised that replacing the bearings would not make any difference to the noise - and they were right.!! The countershaft assembly should have a distance piece at one end. On my gearbox this was missing and the gears were able to move backwards and forwards alarmingly! When I turned the box over, a thick washer fell out - this would have been the distance piece but a po had presumably attempted to replace the bearings (bushings in my case) with the gearbox in situ and dropped the washer. It must have lain in the bottom of the gearbox for many years.! Ray.
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My only concern with changing the idler gear is different wear patterns. My father used to go on about "matched gear sets" but I don't think we have that luxury. Ray.
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I haven't seen any information about these shims so I just put them back the same as before . You may find the original seal needs replacing but if it is OK then leave it in place. I didn't know what was the best grease to use so went with a multi purpose grease. I used plenty of lube on the universal coupling. Ray.
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Hi Paul. All I diid was make up a puller from a long bolt with a little distance piece under the head to bear evenly on the end of the guide. I think I used a length of tubing on the other end or it may have been an old box spanner; I can't remember now but it was all quite simple really. I seem to remember if the camshaft is out the guides can be removed from either the top or bottom. You will see the original guides have a ribbed surface which I suppose is to help keep them in place. Sadly, the replacements don't have this and are perfectly smooth. I didn't attempt to give them a key other than the fine machining marks left by my lathe but they are in quite tight so fingers crossed they will stay put. BTW. When you get the babbit done I understand that the end play of the crankshaft is determined by the white metal on the sides of the centre main bearing caps. Probably teaching granny to suck eggs but better safe etc. Ray.
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I pulled my guides because the method of using a cold chisel and hammer (described in the manual) seemed too risky. Also, measure the new ones. Mine were about 0.003" too big and I had to turn them down to fit snugly.. You will presumably be renewing the valves. The retaining pins tend to leave a groove in the retainers which prevents desirable rotation so it would be good practise to machine out the groove. Your engine shop will be able to cut new valve seats which in my opinion is likely to be more accurate than doing it yourself. Finally, check the valves don't stick at any point in the new guides. I thought mine were o.k. but I suffered a sticking valve on the first outing. Ray.
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Good to hear you are in Herm's capable hands. Ray.
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Romar supply them. http://romardb.com/catmain.html Clutch Springs. If your clutch is noisy, you probably need these springs. Replace both at once. #427S $20.00 EACH(TAKES 2)
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I expect you know, but it is advised that the two anti rattle springs are reinstated when you put it back in. Ray.