R.White

In the first diagram you will see what is described as "high speed sliding gear". This is the gear which takes all the initial load in first and second gear and as a result can get pretty badly worn. (I expect this is responsible for the noise which can be considerable even if it is in good condition). An unusual featutre of this sliding gear is that when you change into top it slides into and is concealed within the speedo drive gear and consequently looses direct connection with the layshaft gears. As I understand it, the theory is that the oil being thick will impart motion to the lay cluster of gears sufficient to raise or lower their speed to match. I am not sure if this is how it is supposed to work and as always I am happy to be corrected if I am wrong about something.

Perhaps it would be better to not use semi fluid grease as it has an EP constituent which I am (reliably?) informed can attack yellow metal such as layshaft bushes. It has crossed my mind that in an old gearbox with straight cut gears and no synchromesh the clearances are perhaps bigger and the shear less than in later designs. Perhaps this is why heavy oil can be used. I fully appreciate the lubrication risk in using a heavy oil but may I suggest that this would only be a problem in later transmissions. The reality of these old "crash" gearboxes is that even with new bearings and decent mating surfaces the noise produced is not something that would be acceptable these days. I have learned to ignore the racket and just get on with it. My biggest problem is I sometimes forget where I left second gear.?

Neither of the two main suppliers show any difference between the different types of "four". I think (pretty sure) that all the pistons will fit depending go bore size. I also have a set of 4 - hardly used - standard size pistons going cheap if anyone wants to pay for the postage from the UK. They were erroneously fitted by a previous owner to my engine but should have been +0.020". Ray.

This photo shows how the brake light switch bracket is attached to the right hand side of the gearbox on my '26 RHD car. My car is also an Australian Import. You can see how the brake linkage is attached to a lever to the left of the clutch pedal. I needed to fit a spring to give sufficient tension for the switch to work properly. Hope this helps. Any questions, please ask.

I agree. If I make a change it needs to be something better than average. My much missed Dad was an authority on these cars and I know he would have approved. I also know I can trust Steve Baker ( the dealer ) who is a much respected, knowledgeable and honest MG guy. You should see the supercharger that has been developed for the MG TC... it is a work of art in it's own right. !! It is the answer to keeping up with the traffic these days and is easy to fit but obviously the crankshaft and rods need to be in good condition. The car I linked to is expensive - no doubt about it - but not excessively so compared to some. The alternative would be to take on a rebuild and bring it up to concours standard but that might actually cost more!. You can get new Ash frames and just about all the parts are available for this model. Older, patinated cars can be found but somehow the TC does not age very well in my opinion. I know you have a soft spot for MGs (I remember you talking about your MGA) so if I do part with the Dodge and go for one, I hope I have your approval. Ray.

Haha, I thought you were going to say KEEP the car and DITCH the wife. Ray.

Good points there Guys. I am sure I will regret selling especially as I don't have to sell but the constant drip, drip, drip of negative comments from my wife about the car is getting to me. She just doesn't get the old car thing ( she always buys new) and doesn't seem to give me credit for having any ability at all. I am also constantly being reminded that restoring an American car costs twice as much as a British one due to the high cost of shipping. The only compromise I can offer is to buy a car which we could both enjoy. One such is an MG TC. The cost is high and they don't offer very good value for money - although they do admittedly hold their price - a bit like Morgan - but if they are to perform like a sports car they need to be supercharged so perhaps that is an area where I might find some satisfaction. http://www.stevebakermg.co.uk/mg-tc-for-sale The last time I was bullied into selling a cherished car was when I parted with my 1973 Triumph GT6 after 36 years of ownership. I really missed the car for a while. The feelings are a bit like loosing a pet but you get over it although things remind you from time to time. Well done Rogillio for getting your car back again. I am having second thoughts too!

This afternoon I have been taking photos for the adverts. It looks like I will be selling my '26 touring after six years of slog to get it into a decent condition. I must be mad. Ray.

Looking good, Mike. A huge improvement on what you started with. It all looks very vintage and in keeping with the car. Ray.

If your valances have access holes in them ensure they align centrally with the rear spring eye bolt when the body is tightened down. When the body was fitted to my car insufficient thought was given to alignment so the bolts can not be removed. This is mostly a problem with torque tube cars because the axle has to be pulled back to disconnect the prop shaft when changing the gearbox. If you have an open prop you won't have do this but it is still a consideration if the springs need to come off. Ray.

Those Montana boys have done it again ! Last year they set a new land speed record! https://vortechsuperchargers.com/blogs/main/the-montana-dodge-boys-set-multiple-land-speed-records-with-vortech-supercharged-power Ray.

The sheer weight of the standard flywheel is enough to smooth out most variations. Really, it is not until you start lightening the flywheel as part of a programme to improve performance that you gain any real benefit from balancing etc. Unfortunately, these old style engines lack the pressure fed bearings needed for performance tuning. Ray.

It all depends on what you want to spend! Your engine (and almost all stock engines) came from the works without having been balanced. If however you want your rebuild to be the best it can be then go for balancing. The most you can expect is a smoother running engine with a longer lifespan as the absence of vibration is a real benefit. Performance will still be limited. Ray.

I would look into cold metal stitching as a preferable alternative to welding or brazing. I have had very satisfactory results using this method. I couldn't help noticing the crank grind tolerance of 0.010". The crank needs to be much more accurately ground in my opinion. 0.001 " max. Ray.

Very sorry to hear your bad news. I would rebuild the spare if it were me. If you do attempt to weld that block remember there are likely to be other cracks that you can't see. Ray.

I am not sure the diff. takes as much punishment as a gearbox; not least because everything is in constant mash. Here in the U.K. we have a miniature vintage car; the Austin Seven. I suppose it could be regarded as our version of a "people's" car. The recommended lubrication for the diff was 50% gear oil and 50% grease. Personally, I consider this to be appalling! Ray.

That, Spinneyhill, is a very good question. I have often wondered if straight cut gears need the shear protection afforded by EP oils in the same way that hypoid gears do. If they do, then steam cylinder oil lacks the strength required for long term protection. I suspect, (but have no evidence) that the heavier oils are used because 1) they are better at slowing down the gear sets enough to achieve a quiet change and 2) there is a stated risk from EP oils to yellow metals found in older transmissions. Ray.

This is a problem that has been with us for as long as cars have been around and it still persists with the Toyota Prius to this day! If you grease the hood hinge it will greatly reduce the ingress of rainwater... and not do the hinge any harm either. Ray.

I found fitting the new crankshaft felts to the pan a hit and miss job. You need to secure them with silicone and allow to set before replacing the pan and even then there is a risk that the rear one in particular could get dislodged as fitting the pan from underneath the car is such a fiddly job what with getting the oil level indicator rod up through the hole and making sure the oil pump drive is properly located. Not everyone finds fitting the pan that difficult however. A trolly jack will come in useful. Ray.

Also, even if there is sufficient clean oil the rod is likely still in place and could get caught by the crank. With the pan off it would be an opportunity to look at the bearings. I would also check out the oil pump and clean out the oil gallery. I know this would mean further dismantling. Sorry. Ray.

I wouldn't doubt it is a design feature but when I replaced the fuse it started right up again. I am still trying to fathom out how?. The EAS has a "limp home" mode which alerts the driver not to exceed 35 MPH. This didn't show up either but I soon replaced the pump with one which I had rebuilt previously. If the suspension ECU says that the settings need to be re set, the usual procedure would be to have this done at the nearest LandRover main stealer. Fortunately I have a gadget called a "kicker" which when plugged into the diagnostics point automatically re sets the ride height etc. Fortunately, I only needed to fit the rebuilt compressor and the memory in one of the on board computers allowed the system to resume operation as if nothing had happened. Ray.

Tell me about it!!! I am feeling like a great weight has been lifted from my shoulders. I also think I have learned a lot. It means that if and when I invest in some new tyres or even for something simple like a puncture repair, I can go in there and get it sorted. Although these guys are commercial I can also get a good deal with my daily driver.! Ray.

Collected the wheels this morning and all good. The tyres have stood up well and the new tubes with bent valves attached have been fitted. The valves only just protrude enough to enable inflation from outside but that is O.K. with me. Apparently the old tubes were well past it. Ray.

I wonder if that is a bracket or a strop? Is it original? The point made about the oil level indicator is well made. The pan MUST be removed because there is no way of knowing how much oil is in there. It might be that the last person to refit the pan just forgot about the rod - or maybe gave up trying!.. M.Wilson might like to consider my tip about using a magnet on the block to hold the rod as it emerges through the hole - giving him both hands with which to fit the pan. Ray.

I think you know I have a love/hate relationship with this car! It is not until I am reminded of how stupid some modern electronic clone cars are that the love of old iron - especially Detroit iron - comes to the fore. The other day the compressor on my Range Rover electronic air suspension burned out. That would be bad enough but what I hadn't realised was that the air suspension shares a 40 amp fuse with the starter motor solenoid so the effect was that the car wouldn't start. You couldn't make it up...but some one must have. Ray.