Mike Macartney

I agree, it would be a shame to hide all that wonderful intricate workmanship.

It is great that Roger takes the time and trouble to document and photograph his work for all to see. I for one look forward to every one of his posts. Mike

Joe thanks for the information on getting over the problem of the broken drill. Your last post is a great example to me and others of attention to detail and accuracy. Mike

Interested to hear how you sorted that out, if it is not too much bother to write about it? Mike

That one also gets my vote.

Nice job with the punching Joe

Gary, Does it 'feel' that the clutch pedal is operating the clutch pressure plate, when you press the clutch pedal? With plenty of room in front of the car, can you start the engine with gearbox in gear, 2nd or 3rd, with your foot on the clutch? That may break the clutch plate from the flywheel? I have cleared stuck clutch plates by tow starting the cars, and then accelerating and breaking with clutch pedal depressed. I would not recommend it with such a nice car as yours as you have to be careful not to run into the towing vehicle. Mike

I am sure you will find the bikes a lot easier and quicker to restore / rebuild than the Mitchel. I'll be interested to see the work on your lathe taper attachment. In the past I was tempted to buy one for my Myford lathe, but the price of them put me off.

It is just magical what you can do with bits of brass. Thanks, yet again, for sharing it with us Roger.

Ted, what an excellent job, it's very pleasing when jobs like that go well. I think you have identified the problem with Janes 1934 Singer 9 Le Mans? It has only had a problem since 1969 when we first got the car! Mike

I seem to remember that with all the cars and motorcycles I have restored. Before I started restoring the Humberette I restored two MGB V8's. This a link to the second one I restored. It worked out that I spent over 1,000 hours on it over a 2-year period. https://www.v8register.net/profileV8RebuildMacartney.htm Bodywork restoration is always very time consuming. Stick at it - you are doing great. After a year of sitting around not being able to breath, the hospital has at last given me oxygen and I feel I might be able to get back in the workshop when I get my strength back. Just to give you a laugh here is a photo of me with the oxygen and the new set of wheels they sent me home with! I said I DON'T NEED A WALKING FRAME but they insisted I take it with me. Mike

Joe, the original ball on the Pitman arm looks as if it would be very difficult to replace without welding. The Pitman arm that came with the chassis looks as if the ball would be much easier to replace as there is much more 'meat' to mount the new ball into. I am sure you will think of a good way of fitting a new ball to the Pittman arm. I would be surprised that the shortening of 1/2" is going to make any significate difference to the steering. Wouldn't it make the steering heavier, not lighter, and the travel of the steering wheel, lock to lock, slightly less? Mike

Just the other day, when Jane collected me from hospital in Norwich, I said to her that we seem to have lost all the breakers yards that we used to have in our area. Progress, or health and safety? Joe, can you post a side view photo of the original Pittman arm and I will have a think. Mike

Jeff, really impressed with your paintwork. Very well done. Mike PS: Just a bit of good news on me. I spent last week in hospital and after a year of trying to get oxygen they have eventually prescribed it. I have an oxygen concentrator for breathing in the house and small oxygen bottles so I can venture out. I feel I may even be able to do a bit in the workshop again when I get my strength back.

As always Joe, an excellent job. One quick question - would there be any benefit in putting a small groove for the oil around the diameter of the bolts at the position of the oil hole? Mike