Phil 32DL6

Just realized that I never brought "closure" to this thread. In case it inspires or "edumacates" (old Bushism) someone, here's the final result.

I bought my first 32 DL when I was 20 and drove it every day even though everybody else flexed their muscle power. Now that I'm old(er), I envy your youth every time I grunt as I wriggle under my latest DL. Anyway...seems like you've met some ageless friends here!

You might have someone (or yourself) follow behind in another car to see if there's anything visible going on with the tires/wheels/shocks as speed increases. You can also jack up the back end and run it through the speeds as a test to isolate the cause.

That's part of my cat's job description: keep the DL mouse-free.

Have you checked the U-joints?

Depending on what you think you'll end up spending on some temporary rims and tires you might want to do a Google search for "wheel dolly" and see what you come up with. One set of 4 was around $100 and might be of long lasting value to you for other jobs. Here a picture I grabbed of a typical wheel dolly rated at 1000 lbs each.

I'm looking into covers also and came across this source. Car Covers - Covercraft car cover Weathershield, Noah Auto Covers They have a lot of choice of types and list my 1932 Dodge (they also list 1924), but I haven't asked if they have specific patterns or just "loose fits" yet. Anybody had experience with them?

This looks like it might be pretty easy to simulate the rubber rollers on this side window guide with a section of rubber tubing, but I thought I'd check if anybody has a lead on replacements? Here's a shot of one on my 32 DL6 "parts car."

Very, very timely article! Today I was doing some experiments to narrow down an engine stumbling problem and I wanted to eliminate cylinder detonation issues. So I pulled the plugs and compared them to the pics in the article: everyone was spot-on perfect....even down to the color change at the bend in the ground strap and 1-1/2 dull threads. Didn't solve my problem, cause it's most probably a weakly performing mechanical fuel pump that can't handle much engine loading, but eliminating possibilities is always progress! A big plug for the link!

What does using "profeiency" imply?

I poured through my Hollander last night but couldn't find that item listed. Anybody else try?

Try Steele Rubber: www.steelerubber.com - Automotive rubber parts and weatherstripping for restoration cars, trucks and street rods. Plug in your year/make and check under "suspension."

Lookin' pretty! All ready for assembly and adjustment. The hex bolt on the left is one of those in-house jobs with DB swaged on the head.

Yep, John...with all that grease on it, it practically FELL off!

This is turning out to be pretty straightforward. The worst part so far was degreasing all the crud that was caked on from some past rear seal blowout. (See photo: How I Spent My 4th.jpg) I found a local brake & spring shop where and old-timer said proudly, "I've done hundreds of those." I knew I was in the right place. He even had a 22" scrap of just the right liner. He did a nice job counter-sinking the rivet heads. Total cost of labor & material? $30. You can bet I'll go there when it's time to re-arch the springs!

For fun, I did a Google search "removing carbon from cylinders with water" and found some interesting info. There's quite a section in an on-line Dyke's about the whole problem with carbon build-up and several options: Dyke's Automobile and Gasoline ... - Google Books (Scroll back to start on page 623) Then there's this specifically on the water treatment: Water Cylinder Decarbonizing... Should I? - Car Forums and Automotive Chat Me? Pretty tough to drip water down a Carter updraft carb!

Anybody have some good sources for cloth/felt window channeling and various rubber parts suitable for a 1932 DL?

What is that page from? I'd like to find out what they say about the 1932 line. Phil.

I have the same question for a 1932 4-door sedan. I was planning on a trip to the mall parking lot with a tape measure to ID something modern with similar dimensions. (Grand Cherokee?) But, maybe someone can save me the trouble...and embarrassment!

Thanks for the tips...sounds pretty straight-forward. But John, I still will follow up with you once I have the old parts out.

Can anyone give some advice on relining the hand brake on my 1932 DL6? It's the type that wraps around and grabs the drive shaft aft of the transmission. The old lining is completely shot and hanging down.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: keiser31</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Got any photos of the car that has been "resting"?</div></div> No recent ones. After searching on and off for 35 years I JUST managed to get a pair of inner rear oil seals, so now I can reassemble its rear end, get her off blocks and roll her out in the light of day. She'll need a little sprucing up for the camera!

Just a "howdy" to all from a new enlistee. This is my second time around. I bought my first 1932 DL6 in 1967 from a fraternity brother for $400 and drove it daily for 3 years until it was garaged in CT during Navy service. It's still there but in much need of work. I recently bought Sandy's (outlawcarman) all-original 32 DL6 (with only 47K miles) which has been satisfying 40-year old hankerings quite nicely. I've been enjoying reading your posts and hope I may be able to contribute a bit. I certainly will raise a few questions! Phil