old-tank

We are not supposed to pick apart any direct offerings here (unless asked)...ok for a link to a Craigslist, etc ad. If someone is considering this car ask for opinion by way of PM, email or phone call. How do I know this?...I've been slapped down a few times .

I guess that is why Tapatalk is not working

Type A was inferior when it was contemporary, but that is all we had...only use to top off if it is all that is available. Type F was used in Ford products over 40 years ago, had different friction properties than other available fluids at the time and is also hard to find. It was not recommended for GM transmissions, but I used it in a slobbering dynaflow when nothing else was available. DexronIII/Mercon has served most well for a few years now and is obsolete since the newest cars have different specs. Dexron and Mercon were spec'd by and for different auto brands and had similar properties, but now none of the generic DexronIII/Mercon is exactly the same as the original specs. The Mercon you are seeing is probably MerconV and like all the newest fluids is lower viscosity and may be too thin when hot to maintain adequate pump pressures in a dynaflow that may be getting weak. On the other hand the dynaflow has all the same materials inside that the modern transmissions have so any fluid would be compatible. Willie

http://www.classicautoair.com/GM_OEM_Compressor_Parts.html See if this helps

Mike, I believe has the best setup combination. One other disadvantage of the 2-post is with convertible flex...I'll bet he never puts his convertible on it now that everything is adjusted. One more advantage of the the pit is that you can work below, but can still lean over a fender to work. One disadvantage is the injury hazard if you fall in. One early morning I went out to my shop and found the side door open; inside there was blood in the bottom of the pit and on the ledge on the side along with some tooth fragments. "Midnight requisition" was interrupted :eek:. The car I usually have parked over the pit was in the body shop. Stavros should have enough room now for a creeper. He probably should not dig a pit since his socialist HOA would not approve if found out. Willie

Good news on the trip. Is that the car on your webpage? If so, it sure has come a long way since you started! Tightening spokes is best done with the tire removed, mounted to the car, a with a dial indicator to monitor out of round and lateral runout. You may find broken spokes if clicking. One friend had repeated problems with loose and/or broken spokes on rebuilt wheels until he removed the radials and installed bias ply tires. What's up with 'rebuilt' wires anyway? If they were that much trouble in the past they never would have been used. Another friend found a set of rusty originals, sand blasted and painted them and installed on a modified 71 Olds 88 which he has driven hard for many thousands of miles.

If you sent a check to that address, then the police should be able to help even if a money order or cashiers check and you have paperwork. If you used a credit card or PayPal, they should be able to help. A chrome shop in Florida had some of my parts and stopped communicating; a visit by the local PD resulted in getting my parts back event though most were FUBAR .

That is correct. And when you do charge it, be advised that the sight glass is useless. Best to get a service manual where you will find that the pressures are much higher than on systems with a cycling compressor.

????Collapse?...not if the floor and sides are concrete. What is the source of those deadly fumes? There must be a lot in mine after 35 years. ????

Your shock attachment is different than 54/55, but I bet if you go over to Lamar's stash you should find a part that can be modified to work.

" New clutch disk and pressure plate."...that does not mean they are not defective. Old Fords had a clutch disc with no wave spring between clutch faces. You just had to learn to slip it just right to make a seamless start. Maybe you and your mechanic can take it an oil change place with a pit to see what is happening from below.

Make the center section removable after the car in on? Cut a hole in the garage floor and dig a service pit like mine? (I can help with the 'missing tool' vocabulary) Willie

11:30, beer, Hooters would be a real hoot (groan:cool:)...but we might lose some participants to the tours. Willie

x2...made me unwrap my convertible and run it with the top down.

I'll be there...Hooters again?

Reservoir or pump? Nothing to the reservoir other than gaskets you can make and spacers that need to be retained. Pump is detailed in the service manual.

You should drive it Matt. It's an easy 2 day trip for you. You will use up a day dealing with flying. It's more fun to drive it. We will pick you up, but you should drive it Matt. Willie

That's going to be a clean and functional installation. A Y or T will not work well since the sensors need to be in the water flow. Other ways would be to use the port on the opposite head; make or buy a spacer with a port under the thermostat housing.

Probably any product will work. NTX cured RTV method sound interestings and I will try to remember it...if I have enough time to wait for a cure . I used bearing grease when I replaced a water pump in Idaho (2007 on my way back from the Seattle meet)...I did not have sealer, but did have some grease of replacement bearings. And still no leaks. Please don't glob on red or blue RTV unless you want to make it look like a chevy engine. Willie

Engine mount(s), transmission mount and especially the thrust pad.

"Final update!!! Success!!" ...that says it all. Good work! Willie

If the torque requirements are not in your service manual, then search online...there are tables that give settings depending on bolt size, thread count, hardness grade...

Yes, this one. I drove that 'patina' for awhile... Is there a special club for those of us who have be chastised by Keith ??

Yes: http://www.buickrestorer.com/heaterhose/heaterhose.htm It is only 32.91666666667 ft. Your leaky Ranco/heater valve will need service too. NAPA/Balkamp seal: BK 6601000...$10 and little time. Willie

Eric, apply 6v to the red wire on the starter relay. That should make the solenoid click and engage the starter. Open the starter relay and file the points and with a center punch, punch at each rivet edge a few times. If that wakes it up, you can clean and solder later. Willie