old-tank

It is always best to first be sure that the ignition has no issues. A sticky breaker plate will not cause your current problems. I did not re-read the whole thread, but has vapor lock been eliminated as a possibility? The winter blend is highly volatile and is no good for warmer temperatures. Most of the country switches to a summer blend May 1 to Sept 15 and your area may be a month earlier. You may only have to get some different gas if the tank still has winter blend in it. All of my 55's need an electric fuel pump near the tank to be able to drive anytime of the year. (for a real headache and glazed eyes, search: summer vs winter gasoline blends, Reid Vapor Pressure...). Willie

Enjoy it as is for now. As straight and intact as the body is, it deserves to be refinished in one of 1955's bright and happy colors. (BTW I hate patina:D...it screams cheap and lazy:rolleyes:) Enjoy it as is for now. Willie

Use the parts car for storage. I ignore request for parts if the extras, were sold, given away or thrown away.

Well heck. Now I won't have a job, won't be the first to see the cars, and won't get to meet as many nice people. I agree with the points that Roy brought up. In addition the check is the last place to notice that a fire extinguisher is not present, then you have a chance to go get one before the judging. Lack of a fire extinguisher was the only reason I would not pass a car, but there were a few that were driven to the show that had defects like non-functioning brake lights that the owner did not know about and had a chance to fix before driving home. Willie

As Mike noted, the nuts are easier to get off if the top of the dash is off, but the speedometer still has to come out the bottom. I just did the R&R and had to loosen the fuse panel, remove the headlite switch and wiper switch ( the headlite and wiper switches needed service anyway ) and even then I had to pry the wiring bundle on this car to get it to drop out. Willie

Solution most likely to work: http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge It would work if somehow the capillary tube was broken or cut during removal; if the leak is at the gauge end, then no luck.

It is my understanding that the drill hole and bolt is to prevent the arm from smacking you when the motor is removed. If your spring is detached from the assembly, then compare to one of the other ones on the car. I wish I had a loose one so I could help more. Pictures?? Willie

Oops, probably not vacuum modulator on a 63, so you can discount that as a source of oil.

Get it in position and use a pentrating/wicking threadlocker like Permatex green ( or liquid form of Superglue ) Willie

White smoke that dissipates is steam from water in combustion chamber and/or exhaust (head gasket, head crack possible);white smoke that lingers is transmission fluid (vacuum modulator). Pull the plugs and look at them; do a compression check; check for oil in vacuum line from vacuum modulator. On a tour of the Flint engine plant (1988) they tested for water in the oil of the engines after testing by pulling the dip stick and splashing some oil on a hot plate: smoke only=no water; smoke and sizzle=water. Until you get a diagnosis, do the initial cranking with the plugs out in case a cylinder is full of water.

Fluid is checked and added in park. How much did you add?...capacity? Linkage adjusted? Pressures as outlined in service? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All pumps and plates that have been in service will have a wear pattern....it depends on how deep the grooves are. It is my understanding that the plates have only a thing layer of hardness, that will not be there if surfaced. It is always best to check the pressures as outlined in the service manual before disassembly. If the low and reverse band were holding there may be problems other than pump pressure...again see the troubleshooting section of the service manual. You will need some new converter parts. Look closely for evidence that it had been 'rebuilt' before...prior work may have substituted parts, omitted some. Willie

In addition to looking for worn rockers and rocker shafts, be sure that if someone has "has been in there before" there are not rocker shafts installed upside down or rebuilt assemblies that shower oil. I pulled and inspected cylinder heads on a smoker only to later find that the rocker shafts were upside and slobbering excess oil on the valve guides. A rebuilt assembly had new shafts correctly installed, but the rockers had new bushings and a groove that directed oil to the spurt hole over the valve springs (in this case valve guide seals are necessary!) What is the problem with Felpro gaskets? I use the higher compression 0.015 head gaskets on all of mine with no issues. The last time I checked Bestgasket had only the thicker head gaskets. The available replacement pistons are a compromise and already lower compression. Willie

I use the group 31 in my 55's and recommend it, but no swapping for me since they weigh between 60 and 75 lbs...my back would revolt.

Tony has more patience than I do, but I have an excuse...I'm old Willie

If you have fluid in the torque tube and an overfull differential, you may have transmission fluid leaking into the torque tube. Willie

Alway buy the best example you can find. You can never bring a lesser and cheaper car up to that level for the same money.

It does what is says, John. But that is unique to Phosphoric acid a few others, but don't try it with Sulfuric acid (battery) or Hydrochloric acid (muriatic). Eric, most of the rust on the panels is rust bleed through and a short application will will show mostly paint color and that will shine some if some compound is applied. Avoid waxes since most contain silicone which might interfere with future paint application. On the other hand, if you are going to go to all that trouble, just prep for paint and paint it. Check with a local body shop to see where they send bumpers for rechroming...around here some send them to Mexico where the 'price is right' and the quality is remarkably good. Willie

Just grind the studs flat on the inside till they fit and move on...most available are like that . Willie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

...waitin' on you.

See the last post on the closed thread. There is a letter posted on the members only section (where you access your eBugle) from the BCA president. The thread was probably closed by Peter Gariepy. You might get some answers at the general membership meeting in Springfield. In addition you might ask to address the board at the board meeting (probably should get it on the agenda prior...ask Mike Book). All of the board candidates have contact info listed. Check with them to see where they stand on the scholarship issue and on communicating with the membership through the forums. I would still like to see a forum for this stuff accessed from the members only area ( and don't think no one would see it... a simple post on the General forum announcing some wild stuff over at the members only forum is all that is needed.) Willie

Very striking paint combo, and the Roadmaster covers always add to the effect. Before you condemn the fuel pump, try this: after you force air through the filler and demonstrate gas at the carb, see if the fuel pump will pump with pressure (~5#). The pump will pump liquid well, but is not very efficient at pumping air through an empty line. If it pumps with pressure, the pump is probably ok. Your problem could have been caused by the highly volatile available fuel resulting in vapor lock (created air or vapor in the line) and carburetor percolation (gas in the carb boiled into the intake manifold leaving it dry. The fuel formulated for winter use will boil at or near 100*F and everything under the hood is over 100*. I had vapor lock in central Texas a few months ago when the outside temperature was 50* If the pump does not pump even with a line full of liquid, then it needs to be rebuilt. A failure like this could be a valve malfunctioning or the diaphragm torn. A torn diaphragm can lead to gasoline in the crankcase, so you would need to check for that. All 55's will benefit from installation of an electric fuel pump near the tank. I use a toggle switch to fill the carb if the car has been sitting for more than a few day as well as to correct vapor lock. Willie

Rear main leaks usually sling oil to the passenger side and would be drips off the rear pan bolts. It can leak out of the head/gasket interface. First place could be the pressurized oil to the rocker which comes up the front and will have a matching hole in the gasket in the rear (easier to visualize if you have a headgasket in front of you). Second place could be the return oil (thru valve pushrod holes) getting between the gasket and the head. But the first place to look is further above at the valve cover. Willie

2 hoses and a union works well on a 55, too bad it will not work on yours. Try GM Obsolete and report back...may be an option for all of us to consider (or not). Willie

The service side (the side that goes to item in question, like the fuel sending unit)