old-tank

No rear universal on a 48, but the area needs to be inspected anyhow. The only shims are between the front pinion bearing and the case and should not need service unless a different gear set was installed. The gear lash is set at the differential bearings in the standard manner. The block between the axle shafts is not square and can be rotated to get the correct clearance. The axle bearings have a seal on both sides and are packed in grease. Don't leave out the inner seal thinking it might get adequate lube from the differential fluid and the outer seal will not efficiently stop leaks. Use hydraulic jack oil in the shocks. You will find where the leak is once full . (http://www.buickrestorer.com/lowtechrear.html and if needed http://forums.aaca.org/topic/131797-making-a-driveshaft-removalinstall-tool-from-torque-tube/?hl=%2Bmaking+%2Bdriveshaft+%2Bfrom+%2Btorque+%2Btube Be sure you service manual is in front of the mechanic...there is a lot of 'alternative engineering' in that Buick. Willie

Right! The worst thing about a party planned by others would be if my friends did not come. Willie

Use the forum search feature (BCA General ... texas road warriors) to find some of our previous (mis)adventures. It all started 10 years ago (http://forums.aaca.org/topic/71039-on-the-way-to-batavia/?hl=batavia). This should serve as fair warning to anybody in our way north of Texas and an invitation to other drivers from Texas to join the fun. There are no caravans, schedules or other requirements; just a bunch of independent contractors that sometimes end up at the same place. Also, participants should save up for gas and oil (we're driving Buicks after all) and stock up on sliced Barbeque Brisket and Fajitas...if gas prices go up any more consider baloney sandwiches. Willie

Hopefully with the transmission apart twice, the universal joint and torque ball was checked...

Was the service manual checked for instructions on installing shims with the thrust pad? New clutch parts? That does not mean they are good parts. Were they replaced with different parts or were the original parts "rebuilt"? If the original were rebuilt, they may always be defective or may be even the wrong parts. Again, taking off over the service pit at an oil change place may show "what's shakin'". Remote possibilities: pinion problems, either the bearings or the drive shaft/pinion shaft interface.

3.36 would be late 55...54 and early 55 used 3.41...and 55 had a lot of one year only parts: case, rear pinion bearing, etc Best to change the whole pumpkin again to be sure parts are compatible....just swap driveshaft. Willie

http://www.buickrestorer.com/heaterhose/heaterhose.htm note that the hoses to the oil cooler on a 55 are 78 inches long. Willie

Also some alternators need the engine to be revved to start charging. Some batteries, when completely depleted, will never recover...

Right, fill the line and carb if it has been sitting for a few days AND to correct vapor lock or in anticipation of vapor lock. Not all electric pumps will allow fuel to be pulled through them; if yours does not allow, just loop around the pump with a check valve. There is not much info on the one you ordered, but if it is like this one (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atx-e8012s?seid=srese1&gclid=COHu-JWb28UCFQ-SaQodgEUARg), send it back...those Airtex pumps are junk and will fail when you need them the most. This is the one I use now (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRT-P60504) with a loop and check valve. Willie

Always as close to the tank outlet as possible since vapor lock occurs on the suction side of any pump. Use 12-14 ga wire. I have a toggle switch to activate mine as needed, since I am pumping through the mechanical (yours may be different). If using full time you need this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfw-cr92/overview/ ...avoids you and your car becoming a 'crispy critter'. Willie

Any place that turns drums can measure for you. Here is a handy tool that not only gives the measurement, but can get the adjustment close: http://www.amazon.com/AMPRO-T71558-Brake-Resetting-Gauge/dp/B00A8FOEFE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1432477633&sr=8-1&keywords=brake+drum+caliper Check the drum before you install new bearings in case it is out of spec. It is always a good idea to check and turn the drums...even ones with minimal scoring will have some taper.

Check again. On my 55 after changing all mounts and thrust pad, I had a hard time keeping it in reverse when backing up a hill. While observing the drivetrain when a helper was shifting from low to reverse, while standing in my service pit (the pit that is not OSHA or EPA compliant --- I coulda died pit), I noted some stretching of the thrust pad that some shims took care of.

Right. It says 41-54, but will work on 55 and I betcha it will work on 56 . If you don't want to join the filler tube with hose and clamps, get a radiator shop to swap the whole thing. And $39 for a sending unit...again, spend your time on making or repairing something made of 'unobtainium'. Willie

Looks good Paul! It is better to do some trimming than have a marginal fit (like my last set from ACC) and with some additional shrinkage over 3 years is tented to get under the sill plates Try tucking the 'tongue' over the tunnel in the back seat... I don't know what is 'correct', but on one of mine with power seat it catches if not tucked.

Yep, I remember reading those instructions. I was exhausted (just reading them). I am all for doing it yourself, but not ready for dealing with possible failure after all that. A better solution : http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=130/category_id=102/mode=prod/prd130.htm Spend you time on something that is not available. Willie

Newer parts are ok, but don't use perishable (perished?) parts like filters, hoses, belts, seals....

Check engine and transmission mounts and thrust pad.

Some more of Buick's 'alternative engineering'... a tapered bushing inside the frame rail and inside a stamped pocket? Epoxy or other glues will not help more than just installing the parts as is. If you ever remove the shock link, then the tapered bushing will be stuck to the stud on the shock link. Other ideas: holding the bushing in place with a smaller bolt use gas welding (brass?) to attach; or cut that section out of the frame and weld the bushing to the cut out section and then weld that back where it came from. Willie

" From the messages, you can write sentences, punctuate, capitalize; with those skills you can read and interpret the manuals pretty well. And you will be likely to follow the instructions to the letter." One of the best statements on these forums! And if you are really physically unable to do the "grunt work" be sure that 'your mechanic' has those skills. The few that I let work on my cars could have been Bernie's cardiologist...they are that smart, detail oriented and really understand how things work. Willie

Pictures of the parts you are dealing with??

400 point judging? You should do at least a silver. Everyone starts with 400 points and deductions are made in order of importance: authenticity (no excuse for it not being correct if you do your research); workmanship (you have that under control for sure ); condition (the least important criteria...usually just a point here and there). And some of this will depend on the judges and whether they paid attention to the training . Willie

That crisp angular styling sure sets it apart from all the look-alike jelly beans we have now.

Because the oil companies like it this way. First, ethanol is cheap octane booster so the crude does not need as much refining; second, added ethanol gives poorer fuel economy resulting in about the same amount of crude used.

The porcelain would probably be ok, but not any OLD cellulose or paper with ANY gas.

The car is definitely a Century and is mostly (well worn) original. Yeah, the carb is wrong (even wrong for 55, lacking cover over rods. gas inlet on wrong side, no vacuum start as evidenced by push button(s) under dash.) I bought a 55 Century in the late 1960's that had a 2 barrel carb (the previous owner installed to attempt better gas mileage). After 60 years, there are usually lots of changes. Engine number would tell if 264 or 322, or a quick look at the front of the crankshaft for harmonic balancer (322) or simple pulley (264).