Shakadula

Members
  • Content Count

    105
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Shakadula

  • Rank
    Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Differential gears are okay. Bad axle bearings. In the process of replacing those.
  2. Thanks NTX. I did take out the old fluid and replaced it as well as added a lucas stop leak. I am not a fan of any kind of stop leak product but I needed another year out of this but it ain't gonna happen. I will take a shot at a rebuild this winter when the car is on jack stands. I have a boatload of work to do on this car. Brakes don't work well. New wheel cylinders and rubber brake lines and they still don't work right. I have antifreeze in my oil. Got a new timing cover to fix that issue. My engine vacuum is 12 but steady. I guess I have a leak somewhere. And something is funky with my differential gears. Slipping I think. So thanks for your help on the power steering issue.
  3. Okay it is not really the pump but the gear housing. No leaks in the hoses. Sorry. Didn't think about the difference between the pump and the gearbox.
  4. Anyone have thoughts on rebuilding vs buy new/remanufactured PS pump. I should state that while i maintain my car, I have never rebuilt a PS pump. If it is anything like a transmission I don't want to touch it. Thanks.
  5. Don't forget to rent the installer tool as well. Don't bang it on. Don't forget the washer or lose it. I have holes in my hb so i just put a screwdriver or centering tool through the hole to hold the hb in place and then use the breaker bar. Good luck.
  6. Don't know if this makes sense but I switched to syn oil and my rope seals leaked like crazy. These new rope seals are not like the seals of old. Anyway I put the suggested oil back and and the seals still leaked. It wasn't until i replaced the new rope seals with newer rope seals did the leaks stop. And I do mean front and rear seals. So I blame the rope seals for not being able to use syn oil. An observation and not based on any facts.
  7. Rivnut, thanks for the pictures. I have a 67 Gs400 with a/c and need to replace my vacuum actuator control on the heater - a/c box but didn't know what look for inside the box. Now I know thanks to your pictures. My gs manual states to take off the front passenger fender to remove the bolts from the box. I think this is nuts but thought i would check with some of you all before i undertake that task. I just see lining up my fenders as a no win for me. They are straight as an arrow now and i don't want to mess it up. Can i undo the top bolts, maybe loosen up the bottom bolts and try to insert the actuator / bolts in the opening at the top? Thoughts?
  8. Thanks everyone. I agree it would be best to just replace it. I was looking for the cheap way out so i will try the epoxy with a sealent or JB weld as I have both. If that doesn't work then I will just freeze cause I need a $500 timing cover. Mine is a bit warped and I don't know how long it will last. Thanks again for all of the suggestions.
  9. I just had a crazy idea. How about a gasket maker like permatex?. It is working great on my timing cover. Thoughts?
  10. Hi all, I broke the vacuum valve on my heater assembly box in the engine bay. Broke right in half when I smacked it with the exhaust manifold when I put the engine back in the car. My question is can I glue or weld this unit to be airtight so I can once again operate my heater? All suggestions are appreciated. I have attached two pictures illustrating the 2 halves. Thanks
  11. Got them off finally. Had to make a tool using a rental puller from home depot a 3 1 foot lengths of chain. Photo attached. I had to hack saw 3 1520 lb hooks to fit the chain cause the s hooks I initially used were not strong enough. They broke. Seems the issue was a lip around the end of the drum lining. The puller made the difference. Never did cut the pins but that would have been the next step. Thanks everyone for your help. Now for the bearings.
  12. Should have an update on Sunday. Yard work today.
  13. John, I played with both adjusters, up and down, where max'ing out in both positions causing the drums to stop spinning. So now the adjusters are in the middle and I have play in the drum as well as spinning. I WD'd 40'd like crazy last night so maybe that will help. I am ready to bust the backing plate to make this happen so that is why I Thought I would drill out the springs. Appreciate your feedback.
  14. Well after 2 hours into this half hour brake job I can't get the drums off. They turn and are loose around the studs but nothing works. Next step is to drill out the spring pins. I am assuming these drums are out of spec and out od round but I will check with the gauge I ordered from Amazon. Now for my question.......... Where can I get new front drums? These old ones have that nasty asbestoes in them and a friend (real old school) told me to just sand them down. He is a good guy and a wealth of knowledge but I think he maybe missed the boat on that suggestion. The new drums I see online that state a good fit do not look like my big finned old drums. Any suggestions Thanks.