old-tank

No way to lube without removing and disassembling the motors. Leave it alone and enjoy. Winter project if you have a bad case of 'tinker-itis" Willie

Leave it alone...all of my 55's act like that Willie

Yes, and maybe a call could get an 'as mounted' measurement or someone here may have some experience. If you can live with a wider wall than stock, the judges will only look for the size...they don't carry rulers. Willie

Don't buy the tire in the link. Pull up the Coker online catalogue where you will see that the tread width is less than a 760-15 (next size down) and will look goofy when mounted. The only thing going for that tire is the 800-15 label. The General is better looking tire, but states a 3" white wall. Most tires when mounted will have a white wall width less than stated (1/4 to 1/2"). Also be careful of tires like this that have the wall ground to expose the white --- the last set I bought from Coker, the width varied 3/4" (noticed after mounted and balanced $$$... they corrected). Bias tires will last 15,000 miles or 15 years or more....radials will last 50,000 miles or 5 years (check the date code on radials!) Willie

It slides down

I cannot help with the rebuilder, but adding a bottle or two of STP (blue bottle) will help slow the leak and improve function if due to low pressures. Do this after the fluid change. This works for me and was recommended by my rebuilder mentor. Willie

Also drain the pan and remove it for cleaning. Add 4 quarts, start the car and add until full (this fills the torque converter). If it still does not perform well, test the pressures as outlined in the service manual and report back. Willie

Torched? Pictures! The original wheels had machined centers to fit the hub. And yes, you will have trouble finding replacements unless you limit the search to used originals.

The only late 55 and 56 cars I have seen had the Rochester 4gc that had a matching exhaust track in the base, and that only required the gasket that was cut out for the track. For yours, I would think that you would use the gasket that is cut out for the track against the manifold, then the plate and finally the carb. Even though I am all for putting these cars back together 'as designed', the highly volatile available fuel means that added heat below the carb is not needed. I would just plug the manifold and use the non cut out gasket. Willie

Good work and congrats on a good running nailhead. Thank the guvmunt for the ethanol laced fuel that causes the off idle stumble. Willie

Welcome aboard Robert. You are in trouble now: there are more 55 owners in your area (Austin and Seguin); at least 6 cars that are driven! Willie

Probably vapor lock. Many of us use an electric fuel pump near the tank to deal with the problem. 7 volts should keep the battery up if it has a good charge. 6v batteries need to be charged at least overnight ...2-3 hours will not do it for more than a few starts. Willie

What year car? Pictures? Actually you don't need it anyway unless regularly driving in cold weather with the same low volatile fuel that was available when the car way contemporary. Todays' winter gas is plenty volatile. When you do get to it rip it out! Willie

Try it and report back.

Did you verify that the vacuum advance is working? Also check the sparkplugs. Whoever neglected to change the points may have done the same with the sparkplugs---or---they installed platinum plugs that will absolutely not work in a carb engine.

On my 55 I used a Derale 15830 cooler mounted at the junction of the drivers side frame and the the X frame. It is mounted with the fins down and the motor above. The motor is wired to a toggle switch that is activated on an 'as needed' basis. The fan is wired to pull through the fins. No pictures at this time. The stock cooler is adequate unless you do a lot of mountain climbing, trailer towing or if the dynaflow is weak with low pressures when hot. Willie

Another vote for fresh fluid. Most transmission 'filters' are just a fine mesh screen that allow some particles to pass. Some settle to the bottom of the pan, but others are suspended in the fluid...seals don't like particles.

The OP is gone. He wants it to be a carb issue that is fixed externally. From his introduction post, this car is new to him, pictures show a newly painted engine with lots of rigging and omissions. No way to tell what was done inside or outside and apparently he wants no guidance to find out.

As did the Best Western

Win or lose, you will never promote Buick or the BCA with it wrapped up in your garage at home...

Condolences to his family. I am going to miss that big smile and welcoming handshake.

Slam it? Yikes! If I did that on mine there would be more than latch problems. There would be paint gouges on the fenders from the hood hitting. Those pathetic hood hinges on 55's will never allow even closure. And I do have gouges from some dumb *&^% who slammed my hood. You have to guide it down with your fingers under the lip until centered and the safety latch is engaged, then give it a quick shove to latch it. Willie

Get some differential bearings on hand (Rockauto or Amazon) and take the rear cover off. If the gears look scored, put the cover back on and enjoy for the season or until replacements are found. If all 'looks' good check for side play in the carrier and after that is removed, check for obvious play in the pinion: thrust and side. Inspect, clean and service the axle seals and bearings. Check back with your findings. Willie

Most headlight switches have a circuit breaker that clicks on and off or buzzes when there is a short in one of the circuits. Don't condemn the switch until you remove the wires and then replace one at a time. Alternately check for grounded wires in each circuit. Willie

Only 20 years? Old rubber gets hard and shrinks. Get some new ones and lubricate with silicone grease at the sway bar. If you need to go somewhere, lubricate and wrap the grommet with tape for a tight fit before installing the bracket...might outlast this driving season . Willie