bullheimer

my 62 buick has left hand threads on the drivers side. it's not my imagination if that's what you're getting at. the two drums i got used were from a 69, neither did have left hand threads. neither of them have rivets, either. the front drivers side lugs were already replaced, but my rear has them still in. the axles have to be removed to get to them. one has been snapped off in the distant past. no i dont want to spend the time polishing these. i would if i had 20 years at the state penn but i dont. the powder coating place are the ones that said they wouldn't guarantee no stains if they powdercoated them. i asked about clear coating them. i am assuming i can just remove the rivets then, if you think they were just put there for assembly. still wondering why they were not used then used. but must have been a need. wont lose any sleep about it. i would be happy with some kind of engine degreaser and just paint them with heat resistant paint. but not something that looks like fake chrome crap, so looking for a suggestion on that, or is there a hi heat clear out there? The thing i would like to know most is if anybody has an idea of lug lengths. and of the knurl diameters of the lugs. like removing one that is .625 inches and replacing it with stock .625s or if i have to step up to the next biggest, which i think is .627 or 8 per this chart: https://www.dormanproducts.com/gsearch.aspx?make=Buick&model=LeSabre&origin=YMM&parttype=Wheel%20Lug%20Stud Dorman rep said he thought 25 would work but next biggest might be better but i guess i'm going to have to try one and see, i do have one that i just got from Autozone, but i cant get to my friends press right now cause he has..........covid, what else? so checking to see if anybodys done any of this before. these drums used to be a big deal. got to admit, they look great. my buicks wheels are 5x5, the chryslers are 2/1000s bigger than 4.5 so i had to have the adapters custom made, but actually think that was due to my wanting them to be 1" and not 1&1/4". i forget the exact measurement in metric, the 1" are on the front in the pic, i want to try them on the back, where clearance is much tighter before i order the second two adapters. but i want to see how this one stud looks compared to the rest to make sure the lug nuts will tighten all the way thru on the thicker adapter. make sense? i hope but could see some confusion about what i'm trying to do. anyone know of a spray on type aluminum cleaner that would knock down the oxidation? I know that Purple power crap is absolute garbage and etches aluminum.

Hi i broke one of my drums on my 62 leSabre a few years ago and got two from a 69 Wildcat and they have i think, longer lugs? and NO RIVETS holding the drum onto the spindle. so the rivets are holding my wheel adapters out about a quarter inch HOWEVER they have longer lugs, much longer, i'm not sure how long but i'm guessing a full two inches or at least 15/16s which is a Dorman part readily available. a couple of questions first can you verify this is a common feature? second would it hurt anything to grind the outter side of the rivets off or to just remove them? obviously they aren't needed. at least obvious to me. I also will probably, i dont know yet, have to remove the back lugs too. i would REALLY LOVE to remove the drivers side lugs with their stupid left hand threads, esp since one was snapped off. i have 1" wheel adapters on the front. the one side shown, with original drums, has such short lugs that the nuts only go onto about 4 or 5 threads and there are about 4 threads of the lug nut exposed. for some wierd reason the drum on the other side, with the 69 wildcat drums has lugs so much longer that they go over a 1/4" SPACER before the adapter and STILL have NO EXPOSED threads inside the lug nut. Dorman shows a 1.5 inch lug and also a 1&15'16s lug so i am ASSuming that the 62 used the 1.5 inch and the wildcat had the 2 inch. ok 3rd, these drums look absolutely sick with my wheels (off a Chrysler 300), they want $150 to sandblast all 4 but said they cant powder coat them because they will leak break fluid or grease but instead of that what is the best way to get the aluminum oxidation off so i can paint them? it would cost way to much to polish them so i need a good cleaner and recommend a good paint, like i'm thinking Hammered or something like that that is virtually bulletproof. anyway, what do you think?

going from 5x5 to 5x115mm

i guess the price i quoted was for US to custom make them. they have what i need in stock here https://www.uswheeladapters.com/shop/1-25-5x5-0-5x115-wheel-adapters/ buying 4 of them. this helps too: https://bolt-pattern.com/ and this is a more comprehensive one: https://www.uswheeladapters.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Bolt-Pattern-and-Hub-Centric-Guide.pdf

yes, thanks

thanks for the info guys

right. i been given a set of wheels and tires of daughters car which is why i'm going thru all this. they would be close to fitting if not for bolt pattern

HUB centric and LUG centric

WHAT does that even mean? what's the diff? 4.5" adapters for a 115mm lug centers is either 1 or 2mms off. the adapter co said they are ok but hotrodders.com says no

i guess i would be (we?) happy just to know what kind of wheels anybody else has put onto these pigs. there is a co that makes adapters here: https://www.uswheeladapters.com/shop/5x__-to-5x__-bolt-on-adpt-hc/

it would be great to know. i have some wheels available to me. need adapters, that's probably obvious. but would also be nice to know max amount of offset and max wheel that will fit in each wheel house front and back. they make wheel adapters in 2" 1.25" and 1" and probably other sizes. I'll try to get the wheels over here. they are huge. 20 or bigger i think. not much offset to them.

I got no idea why but will verify they work independently otherwise

my 62 has a single, but i imagine buying a whole set up from Classic or Waldons would get me there but at what cost? I could probably have the local muff shop build one for the $1400 quoted above. granted, it wouldn't all come apart if i wanted to pull this pos Dynaglide tranny out or whatever it's called. Right now just want to replace the rusted out portion above the rear passenger wheel so i dont have the fumes, plus my muffler has a hole in it too. The ol hide refuses to drive it much because of the fumes. Well, the shop said they could do those things for just $400 so it sounds to me like the best way to go. This is after all just a stock engine. I'm only wondering basically what kind of muffler to use to make it sound good, not stock, not quiet. i was looking at Powersticks but might be loud? i dont know since it is mounted behind the back seat, dont see how it could be all that loud. it's a chambered exhaust, which is what they call it. looks like a glass pack without packing. i had them on the phone, i should have asked. my muffler shop called a muffler 'chambered exhaust' so now i'm thoughouly confused. my shop owner said a lot of trucks are using a Flowmaster on single exhausts. maybe that would work too. he wants $250 for one just by itself, tho

not a lot to go on here. shheeesh! my bomb has the stock single exhaust and it leaks so much the wife wont drive it. gotta getta new muffler since its broken at the pipe into the muffler. doesnt look like a lot of room to add dual exhausts, and with a stock engine dont see a real need, but i don't know the 401 either. i want a Classic Chambered Powerstick at least. I suppose i'll drive the sled over to the budget exhaust place and have them give me a price for both duals and for RnRing the single muffler after i order it from www.classicchambered.com it's basically, from what i can see, just a glasspack without the glass.