old-tank

Check with: https://www.metrommp.com In the meantime lubricate the rubber with silicone (spray or grease) and close it. Then walk away for a week.

The wheels are not original Buick wheels. It would be interesting to know what they are and how they got them to fit.

Adjust so that the pin goes easily into the hole in the latch portion... should not touch on the sides. Before you do that remove the latch portion to clean and lubricate and be sure the spring is intact. Then lubricate the pin. The pin inside the spring is tapered to push the latch aside and then catches the latch with a sharp step...sometimes just a 1/4 turn gets a new area of the step to latch it better. Willie

I'd like to see pictures of that. And how much noise was it making? If that is a common GM differential, a used part might be considered. Willie

If it is dead, then brushes, bushings and bearings will probably not fix it unless you see an obvious problem like completely worn brushes..

Acrylic lacquer is available, but not probably not locally since suppliers will not have the tints (for the lacquer) to match yours. Ordered paint would be close enough for a total repaint, but not for patching. The old lacquer on the car will not like to get hit with new paint and solvent and will usually later crack at the blend interface. Blending metallics with lacquer is extremely difficult...best to do the whole panel (or car). While easy to work with, today's lacquer is not durable even for a car leading a sheltered life. Willie

Left overs from 54? No decision on tutone scheme? Might think early had the pictured scheme, but I have seen later in the year 4 door hardtops (43,63) like the picture. My originally single color convertible had a long and short (factory or later installation?) Willie

For a visual, it will dump about the same location as the right side manifold. It has been done, but if it were easy we would all have duals

Good choice. Alternately a helper can stabilize the crank with a large screwdriver or other tool between the ring gear and the block. Buy the beer now, because you will need the helper to install .

ROFLMAO!

Way to go Tony! Top award and it was DRIVEN! It is a great car to be proud of, and it was my privilege to finally meet you. Willie

Should be no big deal. Many cars of that era were titled with the engine number. Now if the engine was changed and the title was not changed...different matter.

After my recent 3000 mile round trip to the Buick Nationals in Springfield, I was doing my post-trip service and inspection where I noticed some rust dust around a rivet and some cracks in some welds. The problem area so far (I need to remove the generator to inspect the top) is the bottom of the front cross member where it attaches to the frame right side. There is no displacement of the parts. I can and probably will replace the rivet with a bolt, but does someone with welding experience have any recommendations on welding. I recently saw an early 1950's Buick that had a MustangII front subframe attached and there were cracks in the Buick frame next to the weld attachment points (wring materials or technique?). I will not be welding myself, but need to be informed on what to ask for, etc. This needs to be functional and for sure a safe repair. Willie

The grooves in the block and main bearing cap were not machined to a consistent depth since the original rope seal did not need that much precision. I have no idea what the 'proper' depth would be for a neoprene seal to work. Failures (100%) 322 nailhead (3), 248 straight eight (1), 401 nailhead (1)...others have reported success with the later nailheads though. And it is not just a little leak to be tolerated. On initial startup and stationary idling everything will look good, but when driving and oil in the pan sloshes to the back, you will have a massive gusher. People more flexible than me should experience the joy of redoing a rear main seal... and headliner and convertible top... Willie

And I too learn something from Mud with his knowledge of machines old and new. Always a pleasure! Willie

Kodachrome was unique for rendering vibrant colors. Also the slower film speeds such as ASA 25 or 64 had a very fine grain that enhanced detail. Photoshop and other programs have filters to give a Kodachrome effect, but are not even close to the real thing which is not made any more. Willie

Wonder how many other 'omissions' there are... Before driving very much, check the brakes (every part and every inch of the system)

The sleeve is called a shaft repair sleeve kit; sometime simply 'shaft'. They work well, but are relatively expensive, so work carefully or pay a machine shop. A neoprene seal is a good choice for the timing cover, but not a 2 piece for the rear main. All that I have installed and heard about have failed! Even those installed carefully with the crankshaft removed. Parts vendors will tell you they work great, but they probably have not used one and will not suffer the grief of a failure. Willie

This is my method for stopping rear main leaks and it works: http://www.buickrestorer.com/rearseal/rearseal.html ...and it is easy at this point. No seal will work if the main bearings are worn or if the crankshaft end play is excessive...easy enough to check now.

Made it home yesterday afternoon. 3,000 miles total driving, 17 mpg average (up from 15.5), one quart oil consumed (down from 1qt per 1000 miles), one qt tranny fluid and some stp that stopped most of the leak from the front seal. Also noticed RF tire wearing outside edge --- will have alignment and tire checked soon (probably those *&^%$# Oklahoma roads!). Probably a 3,500 to 5K round trip next year . Great trip and show. It was a treat to meet old and new friends. I will have to get contact info on people that I wanted to see, but just always missed. Willie

Also you can make your own pan gasket from cork/rubber sheet. I used a thicker material than the stuff supplied, which might give some room to tighten later if leaks develop. Unroll the sheet on some plywood or cardboard and placing the pan with some weight on it drill 5/16 holes in the sheet (the holes will be a little undersized), cut the outside with a utility knife. Turn the pan and gasket over, place enough bolts in the undersized holes to keep the gasket in place and then cut out the inside. Where is yours leaking? On the early nailheads there is a plugged hole drivers' side (mid front) of the block/pan mounting surface. Machine shops will often remove the plug and not replace it leaving a very thin mating surface. Willie

U-joint behind the torque ball, driveshaft engages splines in the u-joint, end of driveshaft rides in bushing in torque ball ---u-joint or bushing defects would be the only thing that could go wrong since the other end of the driveshaft is tightly pressed to the pinion splines. Of course bent driveshafts and loose pinion could cause problems, but that would be at all speeds, not just on take off. It is easy enough to check the flywheel with a dial indicator, but it would be hard to damage that unless dropped. Years ago my father had a 64 Dodge truck that shook violently on take off until I borrowed it. Night time, raining, no flashlight, 200 miles from home the shift linkage jammed in 3rd gear. After 20+ starts in 3rd it was smooth.

Same outlet on the intake manifold that supplies to the fuel pump. On factory power brake cars there is a 'T' at that location: one side is 1/4' to the fuel pump; the other is 1/2" to the pb unit. Get the parts from a parts car for a clean installation. Willie

450 miles to Waxahatchie TX. Dallas was as bad as expected with heavy rain in the middle of the mess. 250 miles to go...Bill reports construction for 100 miles of I-35...Joy.

Points or electronic? If points they should end up in the same position after the dwell is set the same and then the timing set the same. My 55 has a different distributor, but after changing to Pertonix on one and setting the timing, the position was different. Check that the lobes clock the same with the rotor. Also check how the distributor gear is clocked, especially if it was ever removed from either distributor.