old-tank

That's it! You did something to it! New rate plan for Adam: $40/hr if you leave it. $50/hr if you watch. $60/hr if you help. $70/hr if you already 'worked on it'.

My understanding...tumbler slightly clockwise from OFF, insert and turn counterclockwise. The tumble should have no effect unless in the locked position...

They just want to sell the spaces. They don't care if it is car parts or trinkets or even 4 spaces to park a big ass motorhome to camp in.

Glad it is fixed, but I still don't understand how it was running, stopped running when it should not have run in the first place :confused::confused:

Driving today with the windows up and heater on (mid 30's). Weekend will be mid 70's with the windows and/or top down. Summer will be 100 plus with the windows up and the a/c on. Apply now if you want to move . Willie

When dealing with a stuck engine you will get more leverage with a 2ft tool between the ring gear teeth and the engine block than with a 6 ft tool on the crank bolt. Consider removing the rocker assemblies...a few frozen rockers will lock the entire engine (I have seen this more often on nailheads than stuck pistons). Willie

They are aware of this thread. Some were seen (under 'thread information' at the bottom of the page) and others have visited my profile (who the hell is this jerk airing our dirty laundry?) I voted for most on the board and consider them friends, but you still have to watch them. And now their silence is starting to tick me off. Another consideration: is this even legal regarding the Club's tax exempt status? We are watching you! Willie

Scholarship --- Why? Page 14/15 of the February 2015 Bugle details requirements and an application for a $5000 scholarship. In last months (January 2015) Bugle there was a P.S. at the end of the President's message stating that it was coming. Also Board meeting notes (2014) had some discussion, but no good reason for it. It sounds like a good deal for any recipients, but are we now a service organization like the Lions Club? We don't have bake sales, chili cook-offs, or raffles to fund such activities. The financial report in the September 2014 Bugle shows sources of income, the bulk of which comes out of members pockets which translates to 100 full paid memberships to fund the scholarship. Scholarship --- Why? Willie

Alway buy the best example you can find. You can never bring a lesser and cheaper car up to that level for the same money. So quit doing what I have done: buying some rusty, crusty relic with missing or worn out parts...are you ol' boys 'across the pond' listening Willie

I have never understood why anyone would buy a car and drive away with dealership graffiti all over it. They don't in any way pay you to advertise for them.

At $30 that's cheaper than a rebuild kit. Let us know how it works out. Willie

I went through all that a few years ago for my 51 F-1 with the 55 nailhead. I even bought the later pump and there was no way to make it work. I considered one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mechanical-Fuel-Pump-Spectra-SP1079MP-fits-55-57-Chevrolet-Bel-Air-4-3L-V8-/271771408804?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1955%7CMake%3AChevrolet&hash=item3f46d699a4&vxp=mtr and change the arm to a 55, but I found the chevy truck 322 pump instead (it was rebuilt many years ago and soon failed and was rebuilt with new parts successfully, but cost over $150 before I was finished). All of the Carter electric pump I have seen will not allow fuel to be pulled through and if used to prime, you would need to loop around the pump with a check valve. Willie

The later pump 'might' work on a 322 if you changed the timing cover...otherwise the mount is upside down. Easiest to install the original pump and just not use the vacuum part. You might find a single stage pump like the 322 chevy truck one and change the arm. An electric pump should serve well unless you have a &^%$# Airtex pump Willie

Details...more pictures! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Paul, the center circled bolt with the 5/8" head is the pivot bolt for adjustment...the others also with a 5/8" head are accessed through the holes in the inner fender. There are slotted holes in the frame to allow adjustment. Willie

If it like a 55 then the shaft of the motor is part of the drive gear and I doubt replacements from Dorman will work. I have only had to replace one that had a large gap in the commutator, but I have taken many apart and cleaned, lubricated and buffed the oxidation from the commutator. If you do have to replace find a used one for the same side of the car as yours, preferable from a less used rear door. Also think way ahead before you remove the motor, because that spring loaded mechanism can hurt you. Willie

I called the contact a few days ago and asked about a/c (none as noted in a previous post). He did say the floor pans had been replaced. You don't need to drive on salty northern roads or beaches to rust a convertible --- they all leak and if not dried out properly, they will rust. Any buyer should do a close inspection of this or any other car at that price level. For me, lack of a/c is a deal breaker (I already have a non a/c CVT I'm trying to sell) and as neat as that 3-speed is, it would get old real quick of caught in a traffic jam! Willie

We seldom get snow or ice. That was just a misguided mean poke at you folks who have to put up with that stuff. And I should know better, since I was once banished to the Great American Siberia (UP of Michigan) for a year before escaping. Hope you all can soon start killing bugs like we do year 'round. Willie

While installing a cruise control on my blue/white 55 Century, I dropped a bolt between the voltage regulator and horn relay. POW ZAP POOF and I let out the Magic Smoke (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magic_smoke ), but unlike British cars it still functioned. It seems that the central red wire on the horn relay is always 'hot' and is not fuse protected and the voltage regulator case is grounded by way of a yellow wire to the generator. Only 2 days of opening the wrapping to a splice on the red wire near the firewall and the yellow wire to the generator. No damage to the other wires (60 year old insulation is hard and stiff, but stands up to all but direct heat?). The red wire is now fuse protected as will the same on my other 55's. Back to the cruise control installation, which was straight forward, but did not work. The first call to Dakota Digital tech support had a tech reading the installation and troubleshooting manual to me. I got him to admit that he had no experience with or had ever touched the product. A second call and a different tech suggested that electrical interference is sometime the cause on old iron. He suggested a change to resistor sparkplugs, resistor wires, alternator, electronic ignition. A sparkplug change and it works great. I drove that one 200 miles and a total of 500 miles with the other toys... driving or fixing beats cabin fever or shoveling snow! Willie

Hope to see it in Springfield for some up close and critical inspection .

What Bob said " loosen the box to frame bolts" accessed behind the drivers side front tire. There are 4 to loosen....book says there may be up to 1.5" range at the steering wheel.

This shows the holes on the forward top of the door. I can take a picture of an old door and make a template if the one you buy from your vendor does not supply one. Willie

San Antonio Craigslist http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/4829767698.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Replace the bearings while it is apart. The only time my 76 Olds (probably similar setup) leaked is when the bearings were on the way out. And bearings never fail when you are close to home.

Paul, try it again after removing the brackets for the radio, or the put the brackets on the dash first. That way you are only fighting the ends of the dash. Willie