old-tank

Once more: new pics at http://www.buickrestorer.com/centurys/66c/

Service manual for specs and procedures? Dwell steady at all rpm? Loose wires inside distributor grounding in service? Age and condition of plugs and wires? Some cars are timed with the vacuum advance disconnected and barely ticking over (no influence from vacuum or mechanical advance); others are timed at 1600 rpm which would have the mechanical advance all in: 5* btdc @ 300 rpm would be nearly the same as 15* btdc @1600 rpm. After you are satisfied that the base timing is correct, observe the change in timing when the rpm are brought up first with the vacuum advance disconnected and then with it connected. You should see about 10* additional advance from the mechanical advance and then another 10* from the vacuum advance.

In this case you are all wrong. It's the relay that got stuck. The horn will probably still blow with the wire at the column disconnected. http://www.buickrestorer.com/relays.html Since I don't do the snooty drinks like scotch or wine...dark beer is my peasants' drink. Actually I give all three choices about 33% each. Willie

On the previous BCA website the list of National meets had links to pictures of that meet (if available).

A PDF version would be too easy to re-distribute whether sent as an email attachment or downloaded. On the other hand it could be saved to your computer and would be searchable. And with the right software a whole bunch could be combined into one larger PDF. With all the misinformation out there on Buicks it might not even be a bad idea to at some point put it freely out on the web.

A PDF version would be too easy to re-distribute whether sent as an email attachment or downloaded. On the other hand it could be saved to your computer and would be searchable. And with the right software a whole bunch could be combined into one larger PDF. With all the misinformation out there on Buicks it might not even be a bad idea to at some point put it freely out on the web.

Thanks.

Thank you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm guessing that it's those obnoxious New Jersey boys again...

Still no eBugle. I could be more patient when Bill was doing it at no pay, while working full time and fighting recurrent health problems. Now everyone associated with the Bugle and eBugle are paid to do the job. I am not patient. Willie

A few years ago I bought a used wheel that was on a 57 Special in a junk yard. The wheel was blue (car color) with white stripes, poverty caps and trim rings.

Joe, What is the model of that puller?

Do you want your money back?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The 'chapters' link: http://www.buickclub.org/local-clubs/ needs to be cleaned up. Some of the states are not in the same bold font (Tennessee, Texas, Utah that I noticed) and the links don't work for the 3 Texas chapters. Also I manage the Alamo and Lonestar chapter websites and ftp access does not work.

Even a near perfectly functioning antenna will have noise if not extended enough. Ignition noise can get through the same antenna if sparkplug wires are bad or just not completely seated in the distributor cap or on the plugs. Generators and voltage regulators can contribute noise. Maybe if you could give a description of the noise or post a video with sound... Wilie

Remove the front clip all at once if you are not going to do anything to it...it takes up less room. If you do disassemble, put it together on the car. Willie

That's the right one. Mine had to be peeled open to clean and replace the mesh. Tell all the mothers in the neighborhood to put their kids inside while you are doing it. Willie

Unless you have a good running sbc you can't do a replacement for 5K. A complete crate motor is over 5K by the time it starts in the car. Buy a used sbc engine and rebuild? Parts may be cheaper but the machine shop work will be the same as a 322 or more, since most of the steel crankshafts in the 322 often do not need to be turned. Add in driveshaft, complete rear and that 'buttload of fabrication' and you are in the hole. After all that what do you have? A common old sbc that looks common, sounds common...(yawn). I have driven and ridden in cars that had the conversion and the ride was harsh and handling was flakey. If your 322 starts and runs quietly with good oil pressure it will probably go another 100,000 miles. We will be glad to help you keep the car all Buick, but you should look elsewhere for the how-to on a change over. Willie

That looks like the same perforated vinyl on my 55's. That stuff is the hardest &^%$* to get straight. I had the same wrinkles at the end of the seams and ended up pinning and then sewing. In some cases re-sewing the whole seam since the seems the supplied reproductions are just sort close. Everybody told me that I did a good job on my first headliner....it was my last headliner! My upholstery guy was conveniently sick when I needed it done, but was well enough to give me guidance on sewing overhead. Willie

I think you have the understanding of your car now. Aftermarket mechanical gauges will usually come with bushings to adapt to various engines. My 55 nailhead needed no bushings, however I had to make a spacer to go between the nut and the bulb (nut bottomed out before getting tight enough). An electric setup would work also as a temporary fix. Willie

Do yourself a favor and save future aggravation. Send ALL of the shoes back to RockAuto. Take your old shoes to a local brake/clutch rebuilder and specify lining material that will stop 2 tons of Buick...softer, more aggressive, better friction coefficient... Also take the drums and have them turned if not already turned; this way they can arc the linings to the drums and there will be no break-in period. Shoes from local or internet parts stores, and Buick suppliers are all too hard and will not stop the car! Especially Raybestos brand. You will spend considerably more than those RockAuto shoes, but you will have brakes. http://forums.aaca.org/f162/brakes-ii-227946.html Willie

John, like my 55 it appears that there is only one nut on his car. Anyhow, where are all of the '59 Buick folks? If the car has had regular use, the nut and bulb will usually release with little problem....the biggest problem is getting the gauge out of the dash. To drive the car, install an aftermarket mechanical gauge.

Wait up! that nut is what holds a bulb in the head and the whole assembly is continuous with the gauge in the dash by way of a capillary tube. There are no new ones...only rebuilding services.

More possible questions: are all of the parts from your car and maybe not mixed up with a different car?...brackets may be from a 50-70 series trying to fit to a 40-60 series. Chrome shops often have to cut the inside brace from the bullets to straighten...installed correctly?