old-tank

Vapor lock is always on the suction side of any fuel pump. Any fuel pump will push vapor and fuel. Any modifications to the line between the pump and carburetor is useless. That is why an electric pump near the tank has the best chance of working. On mid 50's Buicks the line between the tank and fuel pump is clamped to the frame crossover under the engine after passing through on the driver side. I have not tried insulating that run of line. I don't know what effect a mechanical pump has on volatile fuel at or in the pump. My attempt to drive to the Nationals in July was stopped by vapor lock that I have yet to diagnose. The trip was uneventful using only the mechanical pump. After eating lunch in Dalhart, TX, there was some vapor lock (not unexpected) that was corrected by turning on the electric pump (at the tank) for a few minutes. After filling with fresh cold gas in Clayton, NM (elevation ~5000 ft) we headed for Raton, NM (elevation ~8000 ft). After 10 miles running on the mechanical pump vapor lock started and was corrected by turning on the electric pump. That helped for 10 miles and again fuel starvation. The mechanical pump was still attached to the engine block, so I assume it was working; the electric pump could be heard running. We turned around and by the time we got back to Dalhart area (elevation ~4000 ft) it was running fine on only the mechanical pump. Increased elevation lowers the boiling point of any liquid, so that contributed to vapor lock, but the electric pump that had to pull (suction side) only 6" out of a full tank should have worked. Back home I checked the fuel pressure at the carb with only the electric pump (5 psi), with only the mechanical pump (5 psi), with both together (5 psi) all with an empirical flow of an ounce per 5 seconds. I pressurized the line between the tank and carb with 10 psi with no drop in pressure after 30 minutes. I dropped the gas tank and removed the sending unit/fuel pickup and found not leaks there. I replaced the Airtex electric pump with a Carter, and guess what... it still runs great around here! But to test I would have to drive 700 miles and an elevation above 5000 ft! Possibilities: the electric pump failed to pump even though it was running; the new full tank of gas was even more volatile than normal; all crap-for-gas is more volatile than just a few years ago. This car has been over the mountains 6 times previously with the same setup and at really high elevations (Loveland Pass) needed constant electric pump usage. Recently a friend was driving a 54 in the mountains of New Mexico and was fighting vapor lock problems. After stopping for gas on a cool, rainy evening the car would not start. Apparently after stopping the fuel in the carb boiled in to the intake manifold (percolation) and flooded the engine which usually is only a small problem, but at 7000 ft elevation there was not enough available air to start the engine. Percolation does not happen only on a stopped engine. On another of my 55's there is surging while driving in slow hot traffic. A friend that was following noted black smoke puffs from the exhaust at that time. crap-for-gas...looks like for these cars it is fuel injection if you want to drive everywhere at all temperatures and elevations.

I you are going go to that much trouble adapt it to a more modern overdrive transmission: http://www.transmissionadapters.com/ Those later dynaflows were actually really good transmissions if fresh and functioning as designed. And yours is a known quantity and a good candidate for rebuild...the others may not be ( things like a cracked case may not show up until installation )

Sucessful fuel injection install in a straight-8: http://forums.aaca.org/f118/1950-special-modified-12v-efi-345328.html Probably easier in a 55 nailhead v-8... and it is getting closer all the time for me. The excessive volatility not only contributes to vapor lock and 'disappearance', it contributes to gas percolation in the carburetor. I blocked all exhaust in the intake manifold: http://forums.aaca.org/f162/buick-322-intake-exhaust-crossover-363101.html and that helped, but did not eliminate since the underhood temps are still above the boiling point of gasoline. Willie

I like it better with white walls. I would also like it better if the car was blue Tell us more about the performance of the car like gas mileage, max speed on your gps...

BROKE?! Seems that would be more than a minor inconvenience.

Very nice work! I don't know how radials fare in the Netherlands, but around here after 5 years radials start to separate and become unusable, so don't buy tires until you are ready to use them. (bias ply will last 15 years for 15,000 miles; radials will last 5 years or 50,000 miles). You probably already checked Coker...Diamondback radials is another choice.

I should have recorded some audio of my 55 that I drove this morning. After a 35 mile run I let it sit for 15 minutes. After I returned I heard some gurgling at the back of the car (I never feed this car beans)...anyhow I removed the gas cap and apparently heat around the line from the tank to the fuel pump had the gas boiling in the line. My limited research shows that the current crap-for-gas boils at 150*-200*F for summer gas and at 100*-140*F for winter blends. Around here when the outside temps are in the 90's to 100's, there ain't no place on the car that is less than the boiling point of gas. Willie

Most is adaptable except around the B-pillar area as you noted...much better than the available reproduction parts.

You need spark, fuel and compression. spark: you got that...still could be intermittent due to grounding issues. As a test run a jumper wire from the (-) terminal of the battery to the body of the distributor; if no joy run another jumper from the (+) terminal of the battery to the (+) terminal of the coil. fuel: be sure there is fuel to the carb and should see squirts as you open the throttle (I have been mislead by failure to fire using starting fluid) compression: easy enough to check. spark, fuel and compression: all has to happen in the right order. With the timing mark on TDC, be sure the rotor is pointing to the #1 spark plug wire. Check back

After looking at my 55 and some loose parts, I had solutions involving a Victor 2-stage cutting torch and a borrowed title from the Discovery channel show "dude you're screwed" Glad it worked out. Willie

End of summer my arsch! Check the forecast for zip 78155.

Can't help on dimensions, but all are different part numbers for standard springs.

Smooth means slipping the clutch pack which is engaged when shifting from Lo to Drive. That is the argument for 'shift kits' in step-gear transmissions. All 3 of my dynaflow cars shift differently. Even different transmission fluids will affect shift harshness. Back in the 1960's when driving a 55 'leaker', I was given a case of 24 cans of Type-F fluid and that slowly made for firmer shifts. Willie

Service manual required: check shift linkage adjustment; check pressures and note especially pressure at high accumulator which 'cushions' the shift; be sure engine and transmission mount are in good shape and especially the thrust pad. Report back. Willie

They are not readily available anymore. They were used in the 1950's and 1960's 909065R outer bearing set 909062R inner bearing set (these are 1958 numbers which are backward compatible) Not the 'R' suffix which denotes roller and is added to the more common ball bearing number. I searched once and found some =$$$$$ and the brand was not recognizable, so performance would be questionable...you would still need to carry a ball bearing set if you had a failure on the road. If you stick with ball bearings look for good American made stuff like New Departure from back then. New replacements from Buick suppliers is 'Pacific rim' and is junk (race does not match the ball curvature). Willie

Don't condemn the shocks because they are "different" (along with you straight-8 and torque tube drive shaft). They will work better than any replacement tube shock and last forever if kept full of fluid. Check the function first after removing. Remove the compression and rebound valves for inspection and cleaning, then refill the lower cylinders. Putting fluid in the reservoir at the top will not get to the lower cylinders for a long time. After installing the rebound valve assembly (on the bottom), clamp the shock in a vise with the compression valve opening facing up. Add fluid slowly while moving the arm slowly until full and considerable resistance is felt. Install the compression valve assembly and then add fluid to the upper reservior. I use hydraulic jack oil with good results. If you can't wake them up, then rebuilders will reject them anyway...then you will need good cores or go with the tube shocks. Most of the lever shocks just have leaks and I can help here: http://www.buickrestorer.com/lowtechrear.html Unless you install power brakes, disc brakes require much more pedal pressure than drum brakes. Unless the drums are not serviceable replace with the shoes with the proper friction material and replace all cylinders and hoses...details on request. Nice score by the way. Willie Willie

Welcome back Paul!!

John, that is the way it works on 55, all carbs. Sounds like you, like me, are confused. Maybe it is some some linkage interference that did not allow the carb to open far enough to activate????

Is there any difference in turns (right then left)? Any difference when brakes are applied?

It acts like that with low refrigerant charge also.

Best choice for a modified. A NEW water pump is available to fit that timing cover for 1/3 the price of the crappy 'rebuilt' units for stock 322.

Check out the new one for correct look and fit without mods. Normally it is best to use your tanks, brackets, etc. since you know it will fit. Last one I had recored, I took the brackets home after disassembly and blasted and painted, also the tanks for straightening since most radiator shops will make them 'functional' and not necessarily pretty.

Like!

Earlier this year I had a radiator for my 55 successfully rodded ($125). Before they proceeded I checked on the installed price and availability of a replacement core if needed ( $450 to $500).

If you end up cutting the steel line, use a tubing cutter...never a hacksaw! You will have a nice neat cut vs a nasty jagged mess with metal particles in the lines. If you are in "destruction mode" and not going to reuse anything, then a Sawzall is your friend . Willie