bharaway

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About bharaway

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 02/10/1958

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    rcharaway@gmail.com

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Alabama

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  • Biography
    I currently own a 1955 century
  1. Great advice guys, thanks. I reviewed the eastwood site and Tetz' videos which were very informational in spite of the fact that they were also self promotional (I have no problem with that). It looks like my best bet will be an epoxy primer since I am sure the panels and parts will be stored for over a year........this is a long term and seasonal project. I will check the local paint providers for their products and compare them with the epoxy from Eastwood. My plan is to prep the metal, do the body work and do some if not all of the block sanding with primer builder. I was not aware that you could thin the epoxy and use as a sealer and that is appealing. My understanding now is that with the epoxy primer I can later finish the body work, use the fillers, and builders on top with just scuffing the epoxy surface and after shooting the final epoxy sealant it will be ready for immediate top coats or, if too much time lapses, re-scuffing with a scotch brite pad and re-cleaning prior to the top coats. For now I do not plan on shooting the final base coats and clear coats unless I can find a spray booth locally for rent. I have a positive airflow hood, but no good or safe way to handle the environmental issues and neighborhood issues regarding filtration and correct air flow through my garage. I am thinking base coat clear coat because I hope to be putting significant miles on this baby when completed as well as showing. I read that while lacquer is truly amazing (evidenced by Old Tank's show stopper) it tends to be a bit brittle and may chip more easily for daily road use. I assume it also takes a little more TLC to maintain than clear coat. Fortunately, or maybe not depending on how one looks at it, I will likely have plenty of time to reassess the final top coat issues that I will face down the line. Thanks again for all the great input. If I find any additional information that bears sharing or may be helpful to others during this process I will give an update. Cheers, bob
  2. I am beginning work on the body panels of my 55 Century 2dr. I was wanting the sage advice of those having finished the race regarding the best first "on bare metal" primer to use. I would like to use a non- isocyante primer that I can shoot in my garage. It would be nice to get yall to weigh in on building primers as well. I am thinking epoxy primer 2k with no chromate to "cover and protect" each part or panel until I get around to completing the body work and begin the build up primers for block sanding. Quality and safety are #1, availability is #2 and price 3. I have heard some say use an etching primer first then build. Also, does anyone have an opinion about the slick-sand product for building and block sanding? Thanks for the help.
  3. Hey Fireball, I am in Alabama. Thanks for sending pics.
  4. Thanks, My original pans also had rusted out channel bracing underneath, including the portions that bolt to the frame, so I will definitely use this 4 door floor and make adjustments for the B-pillar. Thanks for your help. Bob
  5. I have been studying the master body parts book and am unable to tell if there is significant difference in the floor pans of the 2 door hardtop vs. 4 door. I am looking to replace the floor in my Century and was wondering if a floor from a 4 door sedan would be adaptable if the middle door pillar braces were removed and the cross brace for the rear seat in the 2 door was welded in . Thanks for any info. Bob
  6. Hey Mike, Thanks for the idea with the ratcheting box end wrench. I am always looking for a good excuse to get some new tools and this sounds like a good reason to invest in some nice ratcheting box ends. Best wishes, Bob
  7. Thanks for the info. I figured my long arms would be a part of the equation, but since the rear bumper is slated for removal, I will wait to take the light housings off until I have the bumper off. Thanks for your help. Bob
  8. Hey guys, Starting to remove trim on my 55 century and was wondering if anyone could tell me the best way to get to the retaining bolts/nuts holding the tail light housing to the body. Any thoughts on windshield trim removal on front and back? The manuals show parts nicely, but I can't find any helpful directions for removal. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Bob
  9. Thanks, I look forward to checking them out. Bob
  10. Hey guys I am looking for several parts for my 66R restoration. Would like to find good driver and easily replated condition items to replace my badly pitted items: Head light bezel. LFt side vent window frame. Inside back window side garnish molding (driver's side lft). front seat adjuster track. trunk handle. RH tail light housing. original jack stand and hold-down spring. Thanks for any leads. Bob
  11. Thanks for the information Willie. Nice to know that I can go with the colors I want that match the interiors for that model. That is interesting about the engine being registration point in Texas. I will have to research it a bit here in Alabama before making any decision regarding a transfer of vin plate to a donor body, but your insights are much appreciated. Cheers, Bob
  12. Thanks Willie, I think I may have found a 55 that I can use instead of the 56, so the brake problem would be resolved. I had a chance to review your restoration......amazing. I just can not get over the transformation you guys create. I love the red and white color and am seriously considering that for my R66. The body data plate is long gone and this car has had several repaints over the years. I checked with a data plate service and they said that in 1977 there was a fire that destroyed all data plate information for the buicks, olds, and caddys, only the pontiac info was salvaged. I understand that you can have a new data plate made to match your color, interior selections after restoration. Is that considered ok? I know that fooling with the vin plate is taboo. Do people ever remove the vin plate to restore and rerivet it back after restoration? Philosophically, what if most of your car body is from another donor car, can you cut out and transfer the door post with the vin plate to the restored vehicle to maintain the car type or exchange the vin plate after the restoration is complete? eg. what if the door pillar was damaged and had to be replaced with a donor? Probably thinking too much, but it did occur to me as I begin thinking about the use of a volunteer car to restore mine. Cheers, Bob
  13. Sounds great, I know this sounds dumb, but I appear to be a bit confused about right side , left side. We ought to use port and starboard! As I was reading your epic restoration adventure last night I noticed that you said that when you had finished the first side (driver's) side that you would have to do the same thing on the "right side" (passenger's side?) I am in need of the quarter forward panel for the driver's side. Not sure which panel you have but I need it if it is the driver's side and the rockers would also be much appreciated. I am thinking of using your idea about the inner rockers; beafing up the size for better stability. Do you remember what thickness metal you used. Was it just cold rolled steel? Please let me know how much for shipping and how to get the money to you. Thank you so much for your help. Bob