1955super

Will these fit the full size Buick’s? I called Quickor last year, right after COVID hit, and the old guy who answered implied that they would only fit the mid-size: Century and Special. He was supposed to call me back, but he never did

Where did you purchase the 1.125” sway bar?

Howdy folks, Are there any other sources for heavy duty 55 Buick sway bars? I'm a little late to the game, and when I contacted Brad last year, he had just sold his last one. :-( Thanks!

Al, I've always wondered why no other 55 Buick's Ive seen...ever...had 4" wide whitewalls. I figured that everyone else was just trying to be period correct -- most people agree that whitewalls had slimmed down from 4" in the early '50s. My Super had L78-15s on the steel wheels when I bought it. I simply replaced what was existing. Unfortunately I had no way of knowing it was the incorrect size. Obviously, now, I know you can't get 4" of white from the original tire size. My wheels are all the same width -- I had them lying side-by-side for a number of years before I mounted them, and would have noticed a height difference. When I had them mounted at Valley Wire Wheel, he told me that four were original, which I took to mean circa 1953-55. One, he said, was a reproduction, which I assumed to be a Wheel Vintiques or other make. I never personally saw the date codes. I just looked up some information on the beefier sway bar and am ordering one. (And I thought the restoration was complete.) Good news is that I learned that Buchanan Wire Wheel will tighten/true. They also offer relacing services. So I'll get the tires dismounted and take them over there for repair. Here's the Buick from the top of the MGM Grand. Thanks!

When I bought the car it had bias, and when the time came to get a new set, I continued with then. I have Coker Classic IV, L78-15 with inner tubes on all five. Hmm. I wanted to do this myself, but having to dismount the tire, and not having the proper gauge may mean I have to farm this one out. :-/ Last time I went to Valley Wire Wheel, but he has a perpetual 90-day backlog. Which means the car will be up on blocks for 90 days. And yes, it's the red/white buick on the website. I consider it my first car, since it was the first car I actually purchased myself.

I recently undertook my longest single trip ever in my '55 Buick (LA to Vegas, and back), in the 14 years I've owned it, without any problems. But I noticed that when I got there the spokes were clicking on at least one wheel on the right side. It did worry me a bit, but I didn't have the opportunity or resources to check out the problem up there. So I said a prayer and drove cautiously back home. Thanks to the forum, I know I can get a spoke wrench from Buchanan Wire Wheel in Azusa. How wonderful to discover they are just down the street from me. What size spoke wrench do I need, or should I bring a wheel with me? Also, I've read about thumping the spokes with a pencil, to figure out which ones are loose. Is this still the preferred method? Also, how tight should I be tightening them? Note, I had all of my wheels (4 originals, and 1 repro) tightened and trued many years ago in Van Nuys. Although it's has been less than 3,000 actual miles driven on them. Thanks!

Ah, you are correct, sir. Thank you. I was staring at the side by side photos for a while and didn't catch that. The 66 bumper is off the car so it wasn't obvious. Thanks again

Weird situation...my bumpers were stolen while my car was in paint and body. :-( (Even though the new color is killer...I'll post photos after it's whole.) Anyway, it is a 1966 Skylark. However, when I purchased the car the entire front clip (forward of the windshield) is a 1967. And it looks great, in my opinion. I've seen old threads on here where people didn't think 67 parts -- fenders, bumpers, hood -- will fit, but they definitely do. The thing is, I'm having a bit of trouble finding a 67 bumper. But I see a 66. Are they the same? They seem to be extremely close, from the photos I've seen. And obviously, a 66 bumper should bolt onto a 66 frame. Pics of my 66/67 Hybrid Thanks in advance! P.s. The For Sale sign was a momentary lapse in judgement which I rectified shortly thereafter

Bump

Pulled from a junk yard. Transmission shop that opened it up for me found no metal shavings, and deemed it a perfect candidate for rebuild. Asking $250. 909-772-0368. Located in the Los Angeles area. Thanks!

Happy to report that the Super Coupe is back on the road after having the Dynaflow successfully rebuilt in Glendale, Calif. It would have been nice if the whole process didn't take six months, but, what can you do. Incidentally, I now have a 1954 Dynaflow for sale that I'll be posting in the appropriate category. Thank you to everyone who helped with this project. Sadly, almost all of my GM resources in the LA area went out of business in the last couple of years. Here's how I'm rollin'!

Hi Willie, Thank you for that. I decided to gamble on a donor transmission I found in a junkyard in Fresno. Picked it up on Saturday. Which brings about another question for Mr. Earl and Leif, or anyone else who might have an answer. Has anyone ever looked for an ID on their transmission and not found a letter? Before I showed up, I had the guys at Turners Auto Salvage hunting for letters in the two places, and of the 6 transmissions they had, only one had a "W" ID. Everything else was just numbers. They guaranteed that the one I purchased was from a 55 Roadmaster, and would fit, so I drove up and upon my arrival it was a 55 transmission. (I've since learned that 55s are easily identified -- they are the only year with the lever for the variable pitch). These are the markings that are in both places on the case, and there is no letter in either. Whaddyathink?

I'm finally at the point where my transmission is out of my car, and the rebuild starts this week. I ran across this on another Buick forum. Anyone ever heard of such? Does it sound like a good idea? "It's an old hop up trick that makes the Dynaflow perform better, by increasing the high accumulator's LONG spring pressure.......To increase the power and decrease slippage in the trans... I did it on my old 55 and the results were pretty sweet. Procedure is as follows: Firstly ensure the trans is in good condition, bands correctly tightened - Find the High accumulator - Remove the original spring (long one) and replaced it with 1982 Chevy 2.5 oil pump spring (available in Chevy oil pump rebuild kit). The accumulator does not have to be taken off the car... Improves power transfer through the trans and helps get these big ol' barges hustling" Copied from... Giving the Buick Dynaflow trans more punch

I'll check for part numbers, but I don't think there are any. I need this entire assembly, pictured below. The planetary gearset and carrier.

MrEarl, can any identification be made from the casting numbers? I'm finding a lot of folks who had Dynaflow's bolted up to their 1955 vehicles, but the letter codes don't match. For example, this guy, 55 BUICK DYNAFLOW TRANSMISSION | eBay , who was very nice to go out and inspect the transmission, came back with an "S" code. So obviously, at some point, somebody replaced the front half of the transmission so that it could bolt up to his 1955 Special. There's a junkyard that I'm in contact with right now who has a Dynaflow with the letter "B" stamped in the spot next to the transmission pan (they tell me that there are no numbers, just the single letter). Ever heard of that? I don't see that letter on the list. I'm having them do the secondary identification on the strip next to the bell housing. Mechanics and tinkerers must have had to do a lot of modifications back in the day.