Is it really that difficult to find a local mechanic that's willing to work on these older cars?

[RivNut]

I dropped some brake drums by the shop that I’ve found that works on older cars as well as new ones.  One thing that helped was that I was able to provide my chassis manual for specs.  While I was there, I told the owner about the discussion of this topic on our forum.  He added that one problem is that very few technicians are real mechanics. Training nowadays consists of how to use a machine for diagnostics and how to R&R the parts that show up as bad.  Find a shop with a mechanic in his late 50s or early 60s and you might have some luck.

 

One shop here in Kansas City is owned and operated by a young man (35+/-) who has his 4 year degree in auto restorations from McPherson College.  If you’ve watched enough of Jay Leno, you’ll recognize McPherson college as one of the places he endows.  
 

If you’re interested, here’s a link.

https://www.mcpherson.edu/autorestoration/

 

Shade tree mechanics can take a 5 day summer class in a field in which they might have an interest.  Click on the Summer Institute link on the right of the home page.

 

 

Edited July 16 by RivNut (see edit history)

[NTX5467]

Several years ago, our BCA chapter toured a higher-end restoration shop, then in northern Fort Worth (AND they were looking for a larger facility, although the one they had was not small by any means, having been a van conversion plant in an earlier life).  In the course of the discussion with their Service Manager, the talk of "Where do you get your employees?" came up.  Seems they have a very good policy on work hours and other things.  They can build anything and put any engine in a place it didn't originally come.  All it takes is money.  No bondo, just replaced or worked sheet metal with primer and then paint.  Mechanical stuff, too, but more like adding Holley EFI and such rather than carb overhauls and engine building.  So, some of their work might appear on a magazine cover near you, ultimately.  $100.00/work hour labor rate, at that time.  Most vehicles averaged about 100 hours for a complete re-do, they claimed.

 

One "aid" to their mechanical work is that the regional Summit Racing warehouse is about 1.5 hours away, so orders can be had the same day, if needed.  Not to forget about the nation's largest (sales volume and inventory) Chevy Parts Depart in the world.  For the factory crate engines, they (and other similar shops) probably negotiated the OEMs to alter their warranty program to use dht "installed date"/"vehicle finished date" for the start of warranty coverage, rather than when the item was purchased.

 

A higher-level technical school is in the general area.  This school also has offices for reps of many high level car dealerships and car lines on site.  So that's the place to go if you want to work on M-Benz or BMW or similar vehicles, which means $$$$ to those younger students.

 

The Serv Manager related that his contact told him a story about one student.  The guy drew a ticket to check for a transfer case oil leak on a 4x4 pickup truck.  He handed the guy the repair order.  15 minutes later passed and the student had not come back to report.  So the instructor went looking for him.  He found him on a creeper under the truck, looking on YouTube on how to find an oil leak.  We all shook our heads and grinned.  Reckon that student was on the starting end of a learning curve?

 

McPherson College might be one of the most visible and talked about colleges with a good auto restoration program, but there ARE others, too.  Many more than you might suspect.  Not all in CA either.  America's Car Museum (formerly the LeMay collection) has teamed with Hagerty Insurance for a car restoration curriculum, too.  Hagerty is also involved in building a network of such programs nationwide, I believe, which can then serve their insurance customers, it appears.

 

While "bright spots" do exist, not enough of them in all areas of the country, unfortunately.

 

So, hit the car cruises and local car clubs to build an information network for your area.  Might not be a perfect way to do it AND what some say might not be completely accurate for your purposes, but it's a start.

 

Enjoy!

NTX5467

[NTX5467]

6 hours ago, ply33 said:

"Future 'old car owners'" are already around. 1999 model years are 25 years old and had significant number of solid state electrical control boxes. I recall when I got a 1991 Jeep Cherokee and purchased the factory service manual for it that I decided the internal combustion engine was, from my software engineering point of view, just a peripheral for the networked computers in the car. While not sold in the US until the fall of 2000 as a 2001 model, the first Toyota Prius was being sold in Japan in 1999, about as computerized as most of the cars that followed.

 

For what it is worth, my 1933 Plymouth has two computers in it: A fluid-mechanical computer that meters fuel into the cylinders based on operator input, manifold vacuum and air flow. It is called a carburetor. And a mechanical computer that adjusts the ignition timing based on engine RPM, it is called a distributor. Later versions used a pneumatic input to adjust timing based on estimated engine load. Both analog, neither uses fancy electronics, but they are still basically computers using the older pre-digital use of the word.

When I first looked at the wiring illustrations for the then-neew Chevy Volt, I was amazed at the miles of wiring in that car.  Plus that the longitudinal center of the car was "the battery".  Didn't surprise me, just the magnitude surprised me.

 

For some unknown reason, the later 1990s Chevy TrailBlazer vehicles came to have a computer in each of the front door power window switches.  The harness plug-ins looked like the terminal on a computer monitor.  Never did find out what other functions they controlled, but they had to be programmed to the vehicle.  That only lasted a few years, though, before they went back to "plug ' play" switches.  

 

On the power sunroof and rear retracting roofs on the mid-size GMC suvs, the "computer" had to know at what position the moving panel was at.  As to what percent it was open or closed.  IF the computer "lost its mind", then you had to run the panel full closed to reopen it again so the computer knew at what position it was.  YIKES!  

 

Enjoy!

NTX5467

[XframeFX]

11 minutes ago, NTX5467 said:

McPherson College might be one of the most visible and talked about colleges with a good auto restoration program, but there ARE others, too. 

For quite some time, Lakeland College in Northern Alberta has had an 8 month "SRT' Program (street rod technology), a continuing education program and 6-Weekends for Seniors program

 

Also for Seniors, there is RAM (Reynolds Alberta Museum). A world class facility offering multi-day courses. Apperantly, always fully booked with mostly Seniors.

 

https://www.lakelandcollege.ca/news/with-retirement-nearing_-auto-restoration-could-be-grads-next-career.aspx

 

https://reynoldsmuseum.ca/programs-experiences/adult-education

 

 

[RivNut]

We need to import some Cubans to keep our rides on the road.  It’s amazing the number of older American cars that are still in daily use down there. Here’s a link to a sub-forum here on the bigger Buick site with examples of the cars I’m referring to.

 

 

[BobinVirginia]

I should start a business sorting cars out. I enjoy getting things fun to drive. I’ve ran into many people that have either thrown a car together or bought a car that looks good but drives awful. It’s all about a fun relaxing drive in an old car IMO

Edited July 17 by BobinVirginia (see edit history)

[kar3516]

38 minutes ago, BobinVirginia said:

I should start a business sorting cars out. I enjoy getting things fun to drive. I’ve ran into many people that have either thrown a car together or bought a car that looks good but drives awful. It’s all about a fun relaxing drive in an old car IMO

My 88 year old father once said the best way to ruin a great hobby was to turn it into a business.  If you could restrict it to sorting only it would probably be a lot more fun.

[NTX5467]

34 minutes ago, kar3516 said:

My 88 year old father once said the best way to ruin a great hobby was to turn it into a business.  If you could restrict it to sorting only it would probably be a lot more fun.

This can be VERY true, but not always.  IF one is very passionate and loves the hobby, being in business to help others by fixing the "indiscretions" of others (with verified lower levels of knowledge and execution, although they might be great friends or people you like) can be very rewarding as it can help the entire hobby at the same time.  Accumulated engineering and knowledge of such can be important in knowing what to look for and where.  \

 

Just depends on whether "I get tired of fixing other people "things" or "Let's see who screwed up what today that I can make better", as to mental orientation, from experience.  Careful job choice can be KEY, too.

 

Enjoy!

NTX5467

[jframe]

Not only will virtually no one in my area work on my Riviera, it's also getting increasingly difficult to find anyone to work on my 1989 Corvette. Been lucky; the Corvette has been exceptionally reliable, and great on gas to boot, so it hasn't needed much other than having to have a rack and a power steering pump.  Had the 35 year old brake hoses replaced when I did all the brakes. The Riv has been pretty good, and the one time it left me stranded, I managed to diag the issue and fix it myself, with a lot of the credit to the good folks on this forum helping this parts guy out with their suggestions.

[Matt56]

On 7/17/2024 at 1:27 AM, 60FlatTop said:

 

 

I read forum topics and see problems connected with inexperience. If I had broken away from my teen aged interests and pursued career paths that took me away for decades and returned to the hobby as an empty nester I can see myself getting into a predicament for service. I am thankful I was able to maintain the balance for decades.

 

 

Absolutely agree.  Watching people get into the car hobby as newbies late in life I see a lot of money wasted due to inexperience and lack of knowledge.  Thinking years ahead for a post retirement gig I've thought there would be an opportunity for a shop that 'refines' old cars - tune ups, front end alignments to add a little castor, minor repairs to correct rattles and leaks.  So many cars I see with 'new to the hobby' owners could be improved a lot for not a whole lot of money.

 

 

[moran75]

Hi all - late to this discussion , but try living in the UK and finding a mechanic  !😀

[NTX5467]

1 hour ago, Matt56 said:

Absolutely agree.  Watching people get into the car hobby as newbies late in life I see a lot of money wasted due to inexperience and lack of knowledge.  Thinking years ahead for a post retirement gig I've thought there would be an opportunity for a shop that 'refines' old cars - tune ups, front end alignments to add a little castor, minor repairs to correct rattles and leaks.  So many cars I see with 'new to the hobby' owners could be improved a lot for not a whole lot of money.

 

 

In one respect, a younger person and a factory service manual should be able to do a "by the book" carb overhaul and it work as desired.  BUT should it need some tweaking dur to age or possibly have some hard-deposit-clogged/restricted passages internally, THAT'S when experience MIGHT help.  So a mediocre older carb oberhauler can be just as good as a younger person that has not done one before.

 

Front end alignments?  If the service operative claims "those old specs are not in our computer", then ask "Does your computerized machine allow for 'custom' or 'manually-inputted specs'?"  In reality, all those fancy computers do is notify the machine operator when the desired specs are reached, no more, no less.  Putting in "your own specs" should be able to be done, seems to me.  "The Computer" does not know the model year of the vehicle, just the specs it's working off of.  Plain and simple.

 

To me, the reality is that you set the toe-in to a minimum specs in the factory service manual, if radial tires are on the car.  Then set the caster to close toward the max value (up to 2 deg positive) in the Factory Service Manual, for a bit better straight-line stability and keeping the outside sidewall more perpendicular to the road surface in a curve.  Then set the camber close to zero, possibly putting little bit more into the driver's side than the passenger side, to compensate for the driver's weight.

 

I suspect that many alignment shops shy away from older cars due to "worn parts" possibilities, which MIGHT affect their shop warranty on the alignment itself.  Parts which are at or near the end of their useful life, but the vehicle still drives "good".  Or the many rubber bushings in the control arms have deteriorated/sagged or the crossmember has sagged, which can affect alignment.  settings, too.  Many more wear points on the older vehicles than the newer ones!

 

I suspect, too, that many shops "got burned" trying to work on an older vehicle.  Cost them reputation.  Cost them "time" the stall was tied-up with the older vehicle in it, which then means loss of productivity and ultimate profits.  If it had been a newer vehicle, just a part of the game, but with an older car, they perceive it's best to "Just say NO".  Which still does not help matters any on our side of the deal.

 

Enjoy!

NTX5467

[Hazdaz]

On 7/16/2024 at 1:10 PM, XframeFX said:

Many of us are retired and have time.

Not even close to being that age yet, so it is either redoing the deck or working on the Riv.  Or working on some other random project around the house or working on the Riv.  Or doing some other minor repair on one of the other newer cars or working on the Riv.  Unfortunately, working on the Riv almost always loses out.

 

But I see my retired neighbor and even with seemingly limitless time, he rather cruise around in his newer Camaro than mess around with it. 

[EmTee]

1 hour ago, Hazdaz said:

Unfortunately, working on the Riv almost always loses out.

Where (generally) are you located?  There may be someone on this forum not too far from you who could help...

[BobinVirginia]

On 7/16/2024 at 11:43 PM, kar3516 said:

My 88 year old father once said the best way to ruin a great hobby was to turn it into a business.  If you could restrict it to sorting only it would probably be a lot more fun.

You’re right. I figure I could be selective and work on things of interest I hope to retire early and something like this seems like a little part time thing I’d like to try. Putting this out for discussion now is good for insight on what to avoid. I already know that I have no interest in doing any full restoration for anyone.

Edited July 18 by BobinVirginia (see edit history)

[Turbinator]

On 7/16/2024 at 9:26 AM, NTX5467 said:

You can always tell them your Will already has instructions for the car's later life.

 

Willis, Im with you regarding appearance change of a vintage car with some exceptions.

 

An automobile must be able to make it’s way on the high w/o holding up traffic. That means lowered cars in any config have to keep up with traffic. I grew up with my older pals putting spring clamps on the front coils and cinder blocks in the trunk. The suspension was ruined and the steering wheel wobbled at different speed.

I have a 64 Chevy Impala SS with stock 14” wheels - low enough. A 63 Buick Riviera with custom made coil springs that lowers the car 1” all the way around.

My decision was not to alter the suspension on my two vintage cars. I think lowered cars have a high cool factor, BUT not at the expense or likelyhood of damaging the car.

Im pretty sure when Im finished with my two cars my two boys will love taking care of the vehicles.

[dr914]

we have immediate openings for four qualified vintage car mechanics!!!!

 

[Turbinator]

3 minutes ago, dr914 said:

qualified vintage car mechanics!!!!

How does a person qualify for such a coveted position?

Only kidding…. If I worked piece work Id starve. Although, I can shine hubcaps pretty good. Then again anyone can shine hubcaps.

 

[60FlatTop]

On 7/16/2024 at 11:02 PM, BobinVirginia said:

I’ve ran into many people that have either thrown a car together or bought a car that looks good but drives awful.

I try to split my time and money 50/50 between cosmetic and mechanical work. That is because a situation may arise where I decide to sell one. Shiny stuff will sell a car.

 

Make a car shiny enough and that buyer will overlook everything his friend will point out immediately.

 

Freshly retired with $400,000 to $600,000 in a personal retirement account. "Dear, if I just skim off $25,000 I can have the car I've dreamed of since I was a kid." First trip to the well. Common story.

[BobinVirginia]

4 minutes ago, 60FlatTop said:

I try to split my time and money 50/50 between cosmetic and mechanical work. That is because a situation may arise where I decide to sell one. Shiny stuff will sell a car.

 

Make a car shiny enough and that buyer will overlook everything his friend will point out immediately.

 

Freshly retired with $400,000 to $600,000 in a personal retirement account. "Dear, if I just skim off $25,000 I can have the car I've dreamed of since I was a kid." First trip to the well. Common story.

Yes, I’ve seen this even with friends my age. Kids have now left the nest and they’ve bought a car they want but realize it doesn’t drive like the modern car they’re used to. I have a friend that bought a “shiny” car that was cool with all the good parts. Overdrive, big brakes, power rack and pinion, new carb new ignition everything. It was all there but not dialed at all. 
 

It was really fun seeing his reaction to some carb tuning, timing and TV cable adjustments for the trans. After getting the timing up where it should be the car quit getting hot, shifting correctly etc etc. 

Ive helped a couple friends like this. Wanted an old car but haven’t been able to get one due to life and responsibilities. 

[NTX5467]

About 10 years ago or so, some owners of an oil field service company cashed out and sold their very successful company.  One of the partners went to B-J's AZ auction and bought about 20 cars of different orientations.  Some 1940s originals, some street rods, a rotisserie-restored 1971 Camaro, etc.  They all looked great, but the mechanicals were not near what they should have been.  The modified cars had impressive "trick of the month" modifications, BUT they all needed to be fine tuned to some degree.  He bought several '55 T-birds which needed their Teapot carburetors rebuilt, or the 1940s cars needed their generators rebuilt.  We did them all, got them working as they were supposed to be, so they could be taken to cruise events and shows.

 

Yes, "pretty and shiny" sells, but also plan on about another $5K or so to get it running as it should, or driving as it should.  Might not be that much, just plan for "extras" discovered that need some attention.  Unspent budget?  Have a meal at a nice restaurant.

 

Enjoy!

NTX5467

[Turbinator]

On 7/16/2024 at 9:21 PM, NTX5467 said:

So, hit the car cruises and local car clubs to build an information network for your area.  Might not be a perfect way to do it AND what some say might not be completely accurate for your purposes, but it's a start

Could not say it any better. Interview the mechanic as you would your doctor, lawyer, prospective girl friend and you are off to a good start.

[Turbinator]

17 minutes ago, NTX5467 said:

Yes, "pretty and shiny" sells

Willis, what gets me is the trailer queens win the trophy for how good it looks not how well it runs. I love a good looking car, but I like a nice looking car that runs good. A car you can take on a road trip is what I like.

[telriv]

Which we have DONE!!!

A few times!!!

 

Tom T.

[Turbinator]

9 hours ago, telriv said:

Which we have DONE!!!

A few times!!!

Yes we have! Your best one, “ Bob what does the road sign say?” Bob said, “ Cant you read?” Tom: “ I can read! I just cant see the sign!”

The  Riv 63 Tom went behind my repairs for safety. Bob: Tom how did I do? Tom: “ Its a good thing you were a salesman.”

[Hazdaz]

On 7/18/2024 at 8:50 AM, EmTee said:

Where (generally) are you located?  There may be someone on this forum not too far from you who could help...

Near New Haven, CT.  There have been a few suggestions but they are all an hour+ away.  Not ideal for a car that you aren't super comfortable taking up to highway speeds, you know?  I even took it out the other day around town and it drives fine, but in the back of my head there is that nagging voice that a leaking diff and worn bearings shouldn't be driven too fast or too far. 

[telriv]

Hazdaz,

 

My boys live in W. Haven & I go to see them quite often.

MAYBE we can make a time that would be convenient for both of us.

 

Tom T.

[60FlatTop]

That part about questioning the internals of the rear differential and axle bearings is a very valid one. A car that is 50+ years old and not been in a climate controlled atmosphere is likely to build up a lot of condensation under the rear end lube over the years. Just moving it will churn the mixture up and give poor lubrication. Driving on the old lube is even worse. My experience has shown one of the most overlooked thing is car resurrection is flushing and changing the rear end lube. The lucky ones get a good long drive that heats up and vaporizes the water. The ones that just put around town insecure about a long trip will be putting in axle bearings or dealing with a loose and leaky pinion.

 

If in doubt change it out. You may have to suck it out or find a bolt hole if there is no plug but water will be in there for sure. Thinking about those periods of benevolent neglect can help avoid the major mechanical jobs up front. A lot of those shoddy repairs never had to happen to begin with.

[Hazdaz]

On 7/19/2024 at 12:15 PM, telriv said:

Hazdaz,

 

My boys live in W. Haven & I go to see them quite often.

MAYBE we can make a time that would be convenient for both of us.

 

Tom T.

Let me know next time you're in the area.  I'm usually around. 

[Turbinator]

Maintaining these cars is a learning experience worthwhile. Appreciating good solid grounding is critical. Clean connections in all things electrical became clear to me. Retracing your steps on a repair can help find your mistakes. The first class mechanics know all this stuff. The DIY’er like me gets a charge out learning things about fixing cars. Just was informed by one of our best how Linear runout report can add credibility to my work on refinishing old car wheels.

[NTX5467]

A clean ground with a mis-placed charge can result in "run-out" of the room.

[Matt56]

On 7/20/2024 at 4:53 AM, 60FlatTop said:

That part about questioning the internals of the rear differential and axle bearings is a very valid one. A car that is 50+ years old and not been in a climate controlled atmosphere is likely to build up a lot of condensation under the rear end lube over the years. Just moving it will churn the mixture up and give poor lubrication. Driving on the old lube is even worse. My experience has shown one of the most overlooked thing is car resurrection is flushing and changing the rear end lube. The lucky ones get a good long drive that heats up and vaporizes the water. The ones that just put around town insecure about a long trip will be putting in axle bearings or dealing with a loose and leaky pinion.

 

If in doubt change it out. You may have to suck it out or find a bolt hole if there is no plug but water will be in there for sure. Thinking about those periods of benevolent neglect can help avoid the major mechanical jobs up front. A lot of those shoddy repairs never had to happen to begin with.

Absolutely agree.  This was the case with my '63.  Lots of water inside.  Fortunately no rust on gears or bearings but some in housing.  After disassembly washed it all out with kerosene spray gun including through the bearings and gears and then reassembled with new axle bearings and seals and pinion seal.

[NTX5467]

Growing up in the 1950s, I can't remember anybody changing rear axle lube, unless the axle had failed and needed rebuilding. The level was just checked and topped off at oil change time.  For those "hot rodders" who changed rear axle gears, new lube was added then, with their hands having the tell-tale smell of hypoid grease on them.  In a time when getting one's hands greasy was a badge of honor.

 

In a video by Lake Speed, Jr., they took some NOS axle lube bottles from his dad's race shop and had them tested.  They were all oxidized and "aged-out" of being good oils, even in the original unopened bottles.  In the foaming tests, more foam than suspected, it appeared to me.  Then I wondered about all of those vehicles formerly on the road with their 30+ year old axle lube in them, foaming away as we merrily drove along.  Yikes!  Yet the axles were just doing their job.

 

NTX5467

[60FlatTop]

My first experiences came from disassembling rearends and transmissions from the piles at a junkyard. Easily a quart would pour out from condensation. They are vented and outdoor temperature changes will make that mass of steel suck the moisture out of the air. Now that I am older I know that the water vapor shrunk about 1200 times when it condensensed and grew more moisture laden air into the cavity to accelerate the process. Large engine blocks will do the same thing and I have had a quart of water drain from an oil plug when draining an engine.

 

A car parked in 2000 has had plenty of time to build up condensation and well as a whole range of sitting idle issues. When I was a kid I heard people say "She sat out in the field for 20 years. We put in a fresh battery and some gas, started on the first crank and ran like new." Wasn't long before I found out they ran for a week or some problem inspired the owner to "disassemble the car for restoration".

 

It is hard to find that insight in a local repair shop today and if it was there the owner might have did the damage already. Long term idle storage and attention to the process of recommissioning can prevent much of the work that frustrates an old car owner.

[Craig Balzer]

On 7/21/2024 at 5:30 PM, Turbinator said:

Appreciating good solid grounding is critical.

[edinmass]

 

In my humble opinion.........unless you have 5000 hours spinning wrenches, you're just a back yard mechanic or at best what in the trades we call a "under car mechanic." Todays cars are much more reliable, and very few components get repaired....just replaced. Thus a young guy today with 5000 hours in the shop probably has less experience with mechanical systems than I did with 1500 hours under my belt. It's just technology evolving. Equipment guys tend to be the better wrenches today.......guys from the heartland who can weld, fabricate, deal with multiple fuels, hydraulics, ect. A talented 30 year old tech from a dealership probably has never seen a standard transmission opened up or disassembled.  Same for a rear end. We did a 1936 Packard transmission a few months ago. Less than three hours to pull it out. One day on the bench to rebuild, and toss it back in the next day. Thought nothing of it..........made all the gaskets and shims to get it to go together correctly. Hardest part of the job was locating special lock washers that were needed............got them after the job was finished and down the road......we got the car back and installed the correct locks and removed the lock tite. So delays in sourcing parts are a big issue today............the hobby continues to evolve. I don't like it.......but I learn to live with it. Lately it seems no one in southern Florida can service or repair any drum brakes...........so I end up doing lots of them. It's so easy it's ridiculous ....... and I never pass up the work. Who would have guessed drum brake service is a speciality repair?

Edited July 23 by edinmass (see edit history)

[Turbinator]

43 minutes ago, edinmass said:

It's so easy it's ridiculous

I agree. You've got to learn first. Some have the natural intuition to see how things go, come apart, and go back together.Others don't have the natural capability and have to learn the hard way- trial and error. I came from a family that all were mechanical, electrical, welders, fabricators that made a good living. I went to school and learned some other stuff that did not include the aforementioned. So, at age 74 I'm still a long way from 5000 hours of wrenching under my belt. I have 5000 hrs of struggle, but not wrenching on the nuts and bolts. I work hard at it and laugh at myself. When others laugh at me I ask them if they can square two digit numbers in their head or calculate the ROI with certain information. Makes no difference. other than can you achieve what you want with your vintage car. Some gents have beautiful cars that win prizes, but they just sit and look at the car. I want to drive my piece of American automobile history and have fun. That is what it's all about having fun, while you are working your but off to learn.

Later Gator,

The Turbinator

 

[60FlatTop]

The number of hours of exposure is not a very good measure of experience. Working a 5 day week with holidays, some vacation, and 8 hour days put an employee on the line for about 2,000 hours. 5,000 hours would make a guy 2 1/2 years older than when he started, probably not much more. The greatest problem in most careers, mechanical or soft skill is the lack of a foundation in the basics. Many years ago I saw a PBS interview with a famous astrophysicist. The interviewer asked what the latest, leading edge discoveries were in physics. The reply, with a smile, was "You ask me that but you don't know how a butterflies wings work."

Once my wife asked me why I fixed other people's cars when she knew they were friends who had mechanical skills. I told he "They fix Fords and Chevys and Cadillacs. I fix automotive mechanical systems. There is a big difference" It is all in knowing the basics at the simplest level.

 

My real profession is power plant engineering. I have a broad exposure that has covered many overlapping career fields. For many years I taught the 4th year of a 4 year apprenticeship program for heating and air conditioning mechanics. I spent most of my time teaching very basic first year principles as the applied to the final year requirements. I begged the program board to let me teach the first year. They refused saying they could get 1st year instructors a dime a dozen. My experience was needed for a 4th year instructor. I told them if I taught the 1st year all they needed was a spirit guide for the 4th. So many poor decisions are made due to the ignorance of management at all levels.

 

I talked to my daughter last week. She was working hard preparing for a couple of certification tests in her career. She said "Oh, I have to remember so many odd things. Like one filing has to be made within 168 hours. What an odd number." I said "That's the number of hours in a week." "OOOHHHH". So many basics glazed over.

[RivNut]

My dad was a professional Buick mechanic before and after WWII.  I  know that he put in 40 hours a week for 50 weeks a year for 25+ years so he had at least 50,000 hours spent turning wrenches.  Because of all this time spent with wrenches, he refused to work on his own cars and wouldn’t lift a finger to help me with mine (but he would give me advice.)  I know quite a few full time mechanics who just don’t want to have anything to do with hobby cars.  I’ll do what I can, leave the technical stuff to the professionals and continue to enjoy the hobby. 

[BobinVirginia]

8 hours ago, edinmass said:

 

In my humble opinion.........unless you have 5000 hours spinning wrenches, you're just a back yard mechanic or at best what in the trades we call a "under car mechanic." Todays cars are much more reliable, and very few components get repaired....just replaced. Thus a young guy today with 5000 hours in the shop probably has less experience with mechanical systems than I did with 1500 hours under my belt. It's just technology evolving. Equipment guys tend to be the better wrenches today.......guys from the heartland who can weld, fabricate, deal with multiple fuels, hydraulics, ect. A talented 30 year old tech from a dealership probably has never seen a standard transmission opened up or disassembled.  Same for a rear end. We did a 1936 Packard transmission a few months ago. Less than three hours to pull it out. One day on the bench to rebuild, and toss it back in the next day. Thought nothing of it..........made all the gaskets and shims to get it to go together correctly. Hardest part of the job was locating special lock washers that were needed............got them after the job was finished and down the road......we got the car back and installed the correct locks and removed the lock tite. So delays in sourcing parts are a big issue today............the hobby continues to evolve. I don't like it.......but I learn to live with it. Lately it seems no one in southern Florida can service or repair any drum brakes...........so I end up doing lots of them. It's so easy it's ridiculous ....... and I never pass up the work. Who would have guessed drum brake service is a speciality repair?

My former employer has a small car collection. He called me last week to tell me he took his all original highly optioned 64 Tempest to the shop that services his fleet trucks. They told him they had one old guy that works part time that services drum brakes and he’d be in next week!!!! Of course I asked why didn’t he call me? Jeez, I’d love to share the shop’s name but it’s not a small backyard shop!! 
 

I’m hoping to retire early and do jobs just like this for certain people. Basic classic car service and repair with no long term restoration work.   
 

As a matter of fact a friend needed my help with an old truck driveshaft this evening. Two piece driveshaft with four universals. The shop he contacted couldn’t get it in two weeks! Not to mention the 100 plus an hour shop rate. After 2 hours and some beers and pizza I had fixed his dilemma with my 50 ton press. 
 

 

Edited July 24 by BobinVirginia (see edit history)