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Everything posted by moran75

  1. ...would you still aim for the tension stated in manual, bearing in mind car and components are i50+ years old? Do you tighten by look and feel or do you use the gage? Just out of interest.... cheers kev
  2. I’ve got a lovely soft Cotten California car company indoor cover...expensive yes,, but if you pay peanuts you get monkeys Cheers kev
  3. Hi All Page 2-49 of owners manual - belt tensions... 50 + years on from manufacture, are these tensions still relevant ? As component parts are obviously well used , maybe worn though still operational... I only ask as i've replaced all three belts on my A/C 401 just out of general maintenance as they were old - have no immediate means of scientifically testing tension. So i started over thinking... All seems good and i get about 3/4" movement on power steering belt, maybe bit less on the other two. Car still drives well, no immediate sign of charging issues/over heating...not were there before hand... Do you still go by the book, or just instinct /feel/experience etc... Many thanks Kev
  4. Yes, I did the Dot 5 thing as well for same reasons...
  5. Hi Rich great must be a patient man! Re brakes i did the same thing with my 65...though I kept the single master cylinder, at least for now. I stripped all old ones out without even checking them for rbecause 1)car had been standing for 10 years and 2) it seemed hassle free and cheap enough (even cheaper if you make your own I guess but not as quick) to buy a new ready made set from happy with them as well. i stayed away away from stainless steel option as I heard they are harder to bend, and although pipes are pre-formed I expected that some fiddling would be needed to fit. Plus I don’t drive in rain and not looking for a show car finish.. re fitting of pipes ..the long pipe through the chassis was a two man job, for me at least. The others went into their basic position pretty eaasily on my own. However the long pipe Wasn’t as bad as expected - from memory I think we tied the new pipe to end of old and basically pulled it through what i def needed help with personally was the final line up and connection of the pipes to the wheel cylinders - as a novice I left that to the guy who helped me with the long pipe...but of course pipes came flared with fittings so this made his job easier. still make a habit of checking for leaks and level of brake fluid ...and all is still good! Hope that helps Cheers Kev
  6. Hi all Has anyone ever found the factory build sheet inside their ‘65? If so where did you find it? Is there a common location I wonder.... I’m soon to remove back seat (seatbelts) and some of the carpet up front (lifting console re courtesy light) so will have a ‘butchers’ as we say in London ‘butchers hook’ = look ..think Dick Van Dyke in Mary Poppins... Cheers Kev
  7. ...I also asked the same chap if he could repair the original relay, but sadly he couldn’t...I would have loved to keep it with the car ...I’m funny like that, hence reinstating the old beat-up metal air cleaner decal...
  8. sorry for late response - been loads going on, got a bit diverted.... anyway, turns out the main culprit was that the points were not working within the relay, so although it clicked when everything was re-soldered the power wasn't being transferred b/w terminals..the chap who rebuilt my clam shell motor sorted it , and for free so all is good! Thanks all for help/info..
  9. Aha, that make's sense now - i guess then the designers were ahead of their time in a way, thinking of new ways to grab peoples attn!..
  10. Sure, pull over when/ if lights come on....but with a gauge at least you have the chance to see a problem on the horizon and avoid being stuck on motorway?
  11. Hi all Re. my 1965 Riv and it’s simple warning light system for oil pressure /engine temp issues... Not that im qualified to bring in question the design team back in the day but it doesn’t seem to provide much of an early warning system - if it one of the lights comes on then yr left high and dry?! so does anyone know what the thinking was behind it? Must be something that made it better than a traditional gauge - or was it just to provide a modern ‘look’ to the dash? Or maybe when they come on you have a little time to get home/ to a garage ?... thanks in advance kev
  12. All pump and inlet valve fitted..had bit of an issue (see other post!) with floats but all good now. thanks all for your help kev
  13. Mike’s Carbs - part of a kit $40 approx. Excluded step up rods/jets. He sells individual dual parts as well - done know if inlet valve is one of those parts... kev
  14. Good news - all sorted. instructions on kit re float measurements were indeed slightly diff to manual. Researching on internet (not always wise I know) also suggested a bit of a consensus for yet another combo of measurements in relation to Carter AFB which admittedly were more like the settings before I originally started interfering for compromise of 7/16” level and 1” drop...and all is happy again. No more flooding. kept rods and jets because haven’t got any replacements.. And perhaps most importantly the problem that instigated all this shenanigans has also been sorted thanks to the new pump/inlet check valve. just back from a drive and that little remnants of a bog now gone - for now at least. thanks all for helping me understand the world of carburettors ....when a car is in an underground garage and won’t move it helps the learning process! kev
  15. I’ll be rechecking everything next time I’m with the car - but up till tonight I was pretty confident floats were set good. Can I ask if there is ever a reason/situation where you would set the floats diff then the manual? I only ask as when I originally opened the air horn to swap out the pump , it was then I saw the ‘incorrectly’ set floats ...maybe as it was running well up to that point - except for suspected pump/inlet valve issue - there was a reason for floats hanging low (from air horn right way up).... cheers kev
  16. ....should the meter rods just drop into place or is it normal to have to ‘gently’ wobble them into position? when they are in I sense and can feel that the spring works fine as I tighten down the covers... im going to recheck gasket tomorrow as well to see if it’s fouling the rods somehow cheers kev
  17. Hi Tom Pretty confident re floats - famous last words. Maybe they were dropping lower (before I readjusted ) for a reason... re the step ups...I was maybe a little forceful when re-inserting but after the air horn was in place...out of interest do you think should just drop into place or is it normal to have to ‘gently’ wobble them into position? cheers kev
  18. Hello all - update ...and opinions welcomed as to if i'm on right track or not...realise its hard to give a 100% diagnosis when we are 1000's of miles apart... Left car running for a good few mins with choke engaged but engine stalled again straight after coming off fast idle cam - BUT did notice fuel streaming out of the primary venturi nozzle as it stalled too much fuel... Opened air horn and no obvious sign of too much fuel being in carb bowls - level was higher than the start of this process but i have checked and adjusted floats. Fuel level about half way up the bowl but that's not a scientific measurement. Anyway to make 100& sure I took opportunity to replace needles/seats/gaskets with those from Mike's kit. Readjusted floats accordingly. The needles/seats/(single) gasket in the carb were new and from the initial rebuild. FYI Mike's needles looked diff - they are flat rather than pointed and paperwork in kit suggested that 3 of the gaskets should be used for Carter's applications... Started engine - same thing re dribbling/stalling... Which made me move on to the step up rods and metering jets i right in saying that they could be likely/possible culprits of the flooding? .... Rods/jets were not in either kit as replacements so look like they are original to car, or at least old... The first time i took the air horn off to install pump I did take the jets out to clean inspect...and in my ignorance I did use a pin head to flick up a bit of junk from the underside of one....and also again with hindsight when putting the rods back in they didn't seem to want to go in fully and i may have used too much force trying to get them to seat properly. All this was before i realised the relationship with jets etc. Subsequently i've inspected for bending and sometimes i see a slight warp/bend and sometimes not -eyes are tired in the gloom of the garage! So - on right track r jets/rods?? If so ill order some new ones...but any other causes of the flooding? Cheers Kev
  19. opened it up today - and guess what - exactly as you said... coincidentally oldbuickparts emailed me today actually sounding a bit more concerned about my issue, which is nice! though all things considered i think ill just repair this one.... Cheers Kev
  20. Hi Tom I follwowed yr instructions and its def the relay...I spoke to oldbuickparts but they avoided committing to sending a new one - I guess at their cost - even if I returned this one. They were a bit ‘vague’ and didn’t respond to emails - I had to call them. obviously the distance involved is a factor for both parties... but it it sounds like relays can be repaired - especially ‘brand new’ I’ve spoken to the company in the uK who rebuilt my headlight motor who are going to take a look at it. While they are at it I’m going to ask them to look at the original one as well - who knows , would be nice to keep it... this is sounds like it will be easier and cheaper than arguing my case with oldbuickparts.... which makes me wish i had explored this option originally before paying $80 plus shipping/import costs to take place in a lottery ... live and learn! cheers kev
  21. Hi Tom thanks for quick response. Maybe 2/3 times...and jabbed pedal very shortly after starting each I’ll try again tomorrow and will leave running for few mins....  The chap who rebuilt it in the first place obviously didn’t have a buick 1965 manual to refer to! floats were noticeably way out in both directions.. adjusted to 7/32” level and 3/4” drop And to be fair i also gave gave him a kit that with hindsite may not have been the best or most complete... cheap kit from rock auto and can’t remember even if it came with a pump/ethanol ready etc. The one in the carb didn’t look old though. But the inlet check valve did look old and dirty. The new kit from Mike’s included both so in they went... I've taken matters into my own hands because as I’ve mentioned in the past historically I have had a bog at low speeds - used to be very noticeable but I made it much better by checking vacuums/bolts etc and most importantly curing a leak on the vacuum advance....but a slight bog remained, and the squirts from the pump seemed at best weak/at worst non existent...otherwise runs great, and I could easily have left it but it bugged me a little and I knew it would bug me more and more... cheers  kev
  22. Hi Tom thanks for getting back to me. Yes,I did remove them first...saw it mentioned on a you tube vid.. when they went back in they were springing up/down nicely cheers kev
  23. Hi All First the background - i have an original Carter AFB on my 65 Riv. Accelerator pump needed replacement so removed air horn from carb in situ. Disconnected choke rod, pump rod and fast idle rod at top of each by removing spring clip. Nothing else on base of carb touched/removed. Changed pump and inlet check valve, cleaned and reinstalled jets whilst i was there and also adjusted floats as per manual as level too 'high' (when airhorm upside down) and drop too low... All back together seemingly fine. Hoped it would be as easy as that! Choke set and snapped shut as you'd expect. Car started as per normal. But after initially starting car and then throttle jabbed to knock fast idle screw of the cam the car died/stalled straight away.... Looking at manual it suggests air should not enter secondary side during warm up - I'm assuming that if it air does enter this would stall the engine and thus be responsible for my issue? If so then clearly there is a bit more to reinstalling air horn than i hoped! And i should pay attention to the fast idle od/lock-put arm/tang... Or could something else be responsible... Before fiddling some more I want to check i'm thinking along right lines ... Cheers in advance Kev