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Everything posted by moran75

  2. Quite right Schmiddy ..and when I (a Brit) negotiated buying my 65 with my (American) seller it was nothing like how they do it in Gas Monkey Garage!
  3. Hi all My air cleaner currently sports a stick on decal. I have the original metal one and i like the idea of restoring it to its rightful place...its not mis-shaped, and i prefer its natural 'patina' and that it is original to the car. Pics attached. HOWEVER - is there a reason why these got replaced in the first place? Do they just fall off, no matter what you stick it on with, especially second time around? Any thoughts about the realistic possibility of sticking it back on gratefully received .. All the best Kev
  4. Aha ..hadn’t really paid attn to that decal on the side...thanks for the info
  5. Hi all i have what I believe is an early 1970’s double whitewall...came off the spare on my 65 Riv Looks to be in great cond. Loads of tread, however it is 40 odd years old. is there any value to it? I won’t be throwing it away - but maybe someone with a later Riv or similar could use it to complete a set? attatched some pics including DOT code thanks kev
  6. Hi all My car has a slight hesitation under initial acceleration. Apart from that it runs very well. Vacuum advance working as it should by the way. With engine warm and running (in Park) and accelerator pump worked by hand there is no fuel shooting from accelerator pump jets. When engine off, fuel does shoot out of the pump jets- any clues as to what is wrong with carb? Or is all this a red herring? Thanks in advance Kevin
  7. Many thanks all. BTW Carb is a carter Number 3921S which i believe is original to the car. I’ll investigate in more detail next time I get her out bearing in mind all your comments and will get back to you with how it turns out . Cheers kev
  8. Interesting stuff....I got the carb rebuilt straightaway when I bought the car about 18 months ago...the kit was bought from rock and to be honest I don’t even know what was in the kit...I just forwarded on. Ive noticed the hesitation on slight acceleration, like pulling away from lights ...I’m not much of a stomper but my wife is! I’ll ask her! I don’t think I’ll be taking itbout for a week or so but will put it through its paces ASAP and let you know... many thanks for her info kev
  9. Yes , I have the plate. I’ll get checking the bolts and hoses many thanks kev
  10. Hi all Page 6-14 of manual has a description for installing pinion seal with diff in car - for a 45000 series car.... But this description is omitted from the corresponding part of the manual for the 49000 series. Can I assume the process/methodology is the same for the 49000(Riv)? Also , any tips or additional advice re this process in the real world with a 50 year old car would be appreciated! All the best Kev
  11. Hi all Re. throttle linkage adjustments -my manual (page 3-26) makes ref to throttle linkage in “hot curb idle” position ...I’m assuming this is just a fancy way of saying “at idle after engine is warmed up” - or am I missing something ?! cheers Kev
  12. Hi All im checking wiring for my kickdown/switch pitch... I’ve unconnected the wires at the transmission ....I note that the connector that sticks out of the trans with the two prongs rotates quite freely this is a sign that it’s not connected properly inside trans at the solenoid? thanks kev
  13. Aha....many thanks...since posting my question I took a pic as I couldn’t really see what was going on , except that there was some free play going on... I’ve attached it here ...the triangular bit at the top that a remnant of the tab you mentioned? Thanks , kev
  14. As a fellow European ...can I ask where you got the motor rebuilt ? Not that I need mine rebuilt -yet - but nailhead expertise appears to be thin on ground here in the Uk and I like to plan ahead! Cheers kev
  15. moran75

    '65 wheels

    Hi Ed ....out of interest what do you torque them upto?...I believe it’s different for Rally wheels... cheers kev
  16. Hi Tom can you expand on that for the uninitiated? kev
  17. Hi All im running a stock 1965 riv 401ci. interested in learning a bit about real world operation/benefits of the switch/variable pitch torque converter. When working properly is the high setting automatically switched on when at a stop - in other words you have no choice- or is there some way of manually selecting it as and when you want to pull away a bit quicker from a stop? Off and on when desired? all the best kev
  18. Thanks chaps...all very informative. I’ll be leaving ‘as is’ - if it’s not broke dont fix it , as they say. Get well soon Ed..sure you’ll be back out on the football field soon.
  19. Hi All My glove box door opens/closes but doesn't close flush with dash - slightly up on one side and down on other...very annoying as someone has now pointed it out... Is there an easy adjustment, much like on kitchen doors?! Had a look and is not obvious, at least to me .... Scoured the forum and the body service manual but no luck... All the best Kev
  20. Thanks for commenting so door i'snt damaged, certainly not visibly..just slightly lob sided , like a badly hung front door..
  21. Aha...see what you mean, maybe because if vacuum it’s more subtle... will double check ....
  22. Hi all Want to learn a bit more about the workings of the accelerator pump... Running a 65 riv with original carter 4 bl AFB. Engine warm, but turned off - work throttle by hand and I see two nice jets of gas squirted into carb so Acc pump seems good. WhenI try same thing with engine running and in park there are no jets of gas - though engine revs/sounds good. Am I right in saying this is normal and somehow when engine is in D and actually driven, the jets ‘do their thing’ upon initial acceleration? Maybe the vacuum facilitates this? The reason I’m investigating is that I have a ‘bog’ spot when pulling away, but only when pulling away - my money at the moment is on the vacuum advance but that’s another story - at this point just want to learn a bit more about the pump and to confirm my conclusion that it’s working OK based on above tests . Thanks in advance Kev
  23. Hi All Bear with me on this lengthy background - the straightforwad enough questions I have are at the end... I do have a manual and the section re combined heater/air con system is quite a read before I get stuck in can I pick your brains... Current situation is : 1) heater/defroster controls can only be moved from halfway point to full on. Cannot be moved from halfway to off position . 2)blower doesn’t work 3)no noticeable heat produced 4)air con blower works...both levers have free movement ...when blower on and levers sent to max I have air but not cold So when i I bought the car it hadn’t been used for years. The seller told md the previous owner had ‘deliberately cut the control cables for heater short’ - hence point (1) above. He didn’t know why someone would do that but was adamant about it. Question 1) if the info given was correct does anyone know why anyone would want to deliberately stop heater control cables being switched off? Is it an old skool trick to prevent something ‘bad’ happening, with perhaps a failing heater core? Or anything else.... By the way I can can live with current situation re heater levers/lack of blower/heat .... BUT question 2) i’dlike the A/C to work. Before I top up refrigerant will the fact that heater levers can’t be pulled to off position mean A/C won’t blow cold even if system/refrigerant is good? A bit long winded I know...but I got to the point in the end! cheers kev
  24. So...quite a lot to get my head bear with I right in saying that if I don’t repair /adjust the cables, leave the heat/defroster levers as is - midway - and leave heater blower off...then even if all A/C system is perfect (just for arguments sake) then it won’t work properly because of the possibly engaged heater valves/diaphragms etc? or if the heater system is just not working at all, for what ever reason ,then I could repair A/C and use it as per normal despite the heater problems? thanks Kev