1931 McLaughlin 90-have to make a realistic choice ?

[Rusty_OToole]

I'm no Buick expert but my understanding is that McLaughlin started out by buying Buick chassis from the US and installing bodies of their own design and construction. But by the early thirties they were all the same as the US models except for slight differences you might find between any two factories.

[arcticbuicks]

i am not a expert on these also,i read that the Canadian model mc buick  had some different chassis or truck rear differentials etc but not sure on this one,I know the differences on many other brands much more......besides all that i do not see much demand for parts with huge distance and shipping cost and the car cannot go in whole to another country without serial number....to stay intact it will probably end up being hot rodded if not by me i think

[arcticbuicks]

@Buffalowed Bill I would see my myself doing near the same as the guy with the Chrysler 

[arcticbuicks]

I got this American car just for a fun summer driver and to have a different model than the Canadian mercs,I guess it is also slight resto mod with 50s style wheels and exhaust , other than that still 6 volt 312 factory 4 bbl

[3macboys]

Never know but this guy might be your buyer:

 

 

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars/mississauga-peel-region/1932-buick/1644173540

 

[Paul Dobbin]

Here ia a true story of 3 friends who love old Buick Sedans

#1   Bought a 1934/35 Series, 40 4 door sedan, a complete car. 

#2  Bought a 1933 Series 57, 40 door sedan, also a complete car.

#3  Bought a 1932 Series 80, 4 door sedan, a parts car similar to the one in this thread.

So what happened?":

Cars # 1 and #2 were made drivable with worn out original drivelines.  #3 went into storage.  (Had a stuck engine and no head)

One & a half years later:

#1  Had a small block Buick V8, Buick Regal differential, Mustang II Rack & Pinion Steering, repaired wood.   Driving and using it that way.

#2  Had a 455 Buick V8, a Ford 9" Differential, Pacer Rack & Pinion steering, working on replacing the wood with steel,  Driving and in use.

#3  Still taking up storage space.

Four years later:

#1   Finished paint & body, upholstery, wheels tires and Chome, A/C, new glass.   Won first place in Odd Rod @ NSRA Nationals in Tampa.

#2   Still getting wood replaced with steel tubing.   All parts dipped and primed in Epoxy primer.

#3   SOLD, to a guy to make a Rat Rod.    The Rat Rod guy sold the heavy Buick Chassis for scrap and kept the Body.  Got his purchase price back when the price of scrap was way up.:  Owner at the beginning went back to Cadillacs.

Twenty years later:

#1    Has been in use for 23 years.   On it's 4th set of tires

#2    Finished for 4 years, steel instead of wood, paint & body, upholstery, wheels tires and Chome, A/C, new glass. Award Winner.  2nd set tires.

#3    Exists as a fenderless Rat Rod with lawn chairs for seats, with a Series 57 Buick Straight 8.  

How do I know this?   Because I am #1, the silver car pictured below.  The blue/green car is #2,   The Cadillac is #3's car, (Stock)

 

 

 

 

x

Edited January 29, 2023 by Paul Dobbin
Tried to add a picture (see edit history)

[Paul Dobbin]

Had a terrible time adding picture of the #3 car replacement.

[prewarnut]

   I dunno if you keep it I vote considering resto-modding the body with steel as mentioned if the wood is all gone, but keeping the fabric of the car intact. The above restomods look reasonable especially the blue/green one but often the rims and tire aspect ratio is all wrong. Losing these wire wheels will really impact the visuals of the car negatively for most of us.  Food for thought, from what I can find only 5800 Canadian McLaughlins were made for '31. Subtracting the RHD and exported LHD that leaves about 4900 on the continent. When considering how many series 90 sedan versions made, anyones's guess but lets say 1500. These were something like 340 ci. meant to reach 80 mph and had a new synchromesh transmission. Pretty special. Despite under water there's no way to restore the driveline? Also, the number plaque may be in a different position than the Fisher bodied ones. In Jan '31 most all body production was done in Canada so perhaps the plaque is elsewhere?

[Rusty_OToole]

If it was mine I would not write it off without further investigation. I have gotten cars running that were out of commission for 30 years or more. It may not be as bad as you think. You never know your luck.

HOWEVER I would NOT start taking things apart unless I was ready to proceed with a restoration if that was feasible.  Leave that to the next owner if you are not able to commit.

[arcticbuicks]

@Paul Dobbin thanks ,and the cars looks great and the  end results look amazing ,very tastefully done streetrods ,I hear comments from others on the wheel size,i dont see any problem with the wheels with the body lowered to suit,also i notice that there is not a crazy amount of chrome to have to do which is a crazy cost these days ,my 55 Merc has had 147 pieces of triple plate chrome and stainless redone and was over $14000. ....i am not trying to think pinching and savings just that chrome is getting very crazy expensive, for a non million $ car it still needs to be done.The powertrain as far as modern is minimal cost really and i travel the US and Canada more than most do where reliable would be nice with modern running gear.

Several costly problems for me that adds up huge to restore this car :

There are no specialized shops here

Add exchange on the dollar for US parts cost me $1.40 to get a US $ plus shipping........maybe dosnt sound like much but $2000. item is $2800. for me plus shipping say $400. plus border fee etc........i pretty much double cost if i get something from US.

There are no chrome places within 800 miles and think Minneapolis is closest.

I do not do major wood work or set up for it.steel i can do .

Now for the car :

it is straight looking body still with original paint hanging on,i would say zero rust on body panels,fenders are not mangled which can be huge amount of bodywork,I do not need any body parts,Body prep and body work i have guys that can do this part and experienced,i have all great tail lights and headlight glass,lenses ,cowl lights all very nice,the bumper guards are maybe too far gone to rechrome.the hubcaps are all there but gravel beat like a stone guard on a old car.

The powertrain :

for starters it was a car that was well worn and shows.gravel road car .

water damage from flood,the transmission looks like the inside of a old cast sewer pipe,i am just pulling the head off tonite,if the water wasnt drained before i bought it there will likely be frozen cracked block etc also ,the car i imagine with so many others being flooded wasnt quickly tended too after flood if at all,there were 160 cars on the property were i got it back into the mid teens.

Everything beyond what we can all think of has water damage,steering box froze up,rear diff is crunchy to try and turn as well as wheel bearings etc. ,things like generator and starter carb swelled inside.Car sat in water until flood went down ,guessing a week to two weeks.and only fabric remains are a little above water line,the rest must have been dissolved or spead up deterioration wet.

Serial number:

I have been over and over the car ,inspected the entire frame ,all areas of the body and the plate is gone.I did come across a couple things saying Mcglaughlin on little part tag type of thing,I am not worried about this part to get a replacement title  if it becomes a streetrod.I can do a 10 minute form and worst case a RCMP SIU special investigation guy will take quick look at car and i get issued new title serial plate they affix to the car with special rivets, for $50. in a few days.

Interior: 

it has all the garnish moldings and dash complete,guages are rusted badly,the seats rusted and rotted to nothing left,there is some wood but missing over 50% i would say and what remains is bad with ends gone etc and hardly a good pattern,no floor wood or rails ,half the door handles and cranks are bad, but i have similar fancy ones from other cars.

I hunt old cars and know of hundreds of places and yards etc and havnt seen anything for another one .

on a good note ....its in the shop here and ready to do something with it ,i put one ton dually wheels on backwards to clear drums and able to move it around.

 

Edited January 29, 2023 by arcticbuicks (see edit history)

[arcticbuicks]

I am still investigating the car as i would always restore first.........but this case is looking like a rare Canadian model higher end car thats too far gone as far as a cost commitment ... it would be nice to be seen restored........but being realistic......maybe not a good idea .......i do not really want to part it out as not much would come of that ..............Ideally im thinking to maybe just store it for a while as it wont get worse now and maybe search for a better car that needs say the entire front end body type of thing or a better car missing the rare items that this one has.I know the commitment and the cost .......the cost isnt huge really for doing it say compared to my truck or new camper which cost over $100k each and worthless in a few years .I am also doing a few other cars right now and they quickly devour money .........another thing is at now 60 years old i do not want this to be a 10 year project and being this far gone i do not think it will ever be a accurate proper restoration .........also trying to  search out the perfect rare missing items .....that also maybe do not exist for this one like grille emblem kind of things.

Edited January 29, 2023 by arcticbuicks (see edit history)

[John_Mereness]

21 hours ago, arcticbuicks said:

part the car to who though ?......i had zero replies in a year of advertising ,i would be maybe $40k into a streetrod

There will always be a need for 90 Series parts - depends on where and how advetised.  As mentioned here, your market is for the parts separated from the car verses selling it as a unit for a parts car - aka guessing you cannot get it over the border without a title and guessing someone in US would pay tax to import too if a Canadian built car.

 

40K does not go far, especially if ever new wood is needed in the body. 

Edited January 29, 2023 by John_Mereness (see edit history)

[arcticbuicks]

yes.....if some of these pars are the same as a USA buick......and really not a lot of parts other than body panels good ......and if the shipping is worth while........I think a US buyer could maybe strip it down a little to get across the border as 'parts' but i am not sure as the border has been getting tighter,i do not think there is a tax on antique........I would not be doing new wood if i restomod the car,ive been to a few shops where they do it all in metal including floor.......but thanks,all good comments to help

Edited January 29, 2023 by arcticbuicks (see edit history)

[Buffalowed Bill]

2 hours ago, John_Mereness said:

There will always be a need for 90 Series parts - depends on where and how advetised.  As mentioned here, your market is for the parts separated from the car verses selling it as a unit for a parts car - aka guessing you cannot get it over the border without a title and guessing someone in US would pay tax to import too if a Canadian built car.

 

40K does not go far, especially if ever new wood is needed in the body. 

John,

 

I'm not going to go to the wall over this, but I really question your contention that 90 Series parts are in demand. I think Arctic has answered that with a resounding No! How long does he have to wait before the demand surfaces? Is this dream of conservation going to be satisfied by selling the few parts that might be needed? How long will he have to store the parts if he dismantles the car? Then there is the time and effort involved in dismantling, cataloging and storing parts. 

 

So many of us have put ourselves behind the eight ball by dismantling and storing parts over the years. Parts that we once deemed irreplaceable became available with a short internet search. I, like some of you, have a stash of parts that I can't give away. When I was forty yo, time was not critical. Today at nearly 79 there are few options left. Then there is the fact that over the last forty years I have move and stored these thing three times.

 

With all due respect to Paul and the restomods, all beautiful and laudable, does anyone but me see a 40, 50 or 80 Series in a little different light then the way I look at this Canadian built 90 Series? Maybe yes and maybe no, but regardless I don't think that we would be having this conversation if this car was a 40 Series Buick. I'm not answering many of these questions. I wish I could answer all of them, but I can't answer some of them for myself. 

[arcticbuicks]

Its a tough one eh.......what to do with the heap ? as it stands now...... i thought maybe someone on here would say hey i have one missing the entire front end or a  crashed one or some sort of suiting situation to sell or looking for parts ........they cant be rare in the US ? or maybe thats why no demand for much as there are lots in the US for parts ?

If it was to be a nicely done restomod.......would it be one of few I wonder ? 

[arcticbuicks]

I am also doing a 1936 Chev 3 window coupe with rumble seat and continental spare, Canada built and i think only 150 built and something like 54 had rumble seat,it is a Regina Saskatchewan factory  built car and has a model number different to master or standard of USA...............but being a Chev i can at least get parts and it has steel structure doors ,very little wood in the rest of the body compared to the mcbuick

[1937McBuick]

I really think past a certain point in time in a car's age,  demand for parts fades.

 

Nothing wrong with having a stash of parts for the cars you own.

 

Edited January 29, 2023 by 1937McBuick (see edit history)

[arcticbuicks]

All very good comments .......but back to my original wondering......is it better to save the car as a restomod ......rather than part it or leave it 

[Buffalowed Bill]

14 minutes ago, arcticbuicks said:

All very good comments .......but back to my original wondering......is it better to save the car as a restomod ......rather than part it or leave it 

Your car your choice. I don't think anything that any of of says is going to make a whit of difference. Thanks for showing us the car and for the back story, we'll probably never see another like it-good luck!

[Angelfish]

If the choice in this case is between parting out or restomod, I have to go with the second.   I hate to see any car hot rodded but it's better than seeing it scrapped.  That fact that you're asking indicates that you understand what it means to cut up a good car, but a questionable car gets a little murky.  

 

Could you find a period drive train that could be made to work while keeping the car more in the spirit of its manufacture?   A Chevy flathead 6 would be easy enough to find and would at least look the part.  I know where there's a Chrysler straight 8 needing a full rebuild.   As mentioned, the basics of structural integrity, interior, glass, drive train need addressed regardless of your course. 

 

Maybe a tasteful restomod using period (or at least not overtly modern) parts, with an eye toward the original spirit of the car even if the letter cannot be strictly adhered to.  That could be a lot of fun, really and you'd be the only one to have one.

Edited January 29, 2023 by Angelfish (see edit history)

[arcticbuicks]

i have a rusty plain 53 4 door buick with straight 8 that we got running low milage old farm car

[arcticbuicks]

@Buffalowed Bill I post to see options first and that would have made the difference ,maybe someone had a great car but needed better body panels fenders etc kind of thing.....or another option ?

[yachtflame]

Arctic,

 I traded a bunch of parts for a 1931 LaSalle Fleetwood convertible coupe body with doors….nothing else. It had been sitting in the mud for over 20 years and the bottom 6” was gone. Though it is a desirable body, it would take a fortune to recreate the metal, pattern, cut and install the wood (which there was none of) and then it still would never be a 100 point car due to having been rebuilt. I put it on an original frame that had a tree fall on the body. I cut out some circles in the frame to lightened it up. I used square tubing to frame up inside the body an have used the entire drive train and suspension from a Chevy S10. I’m recreating the top pieces and rear dash to fit original top hardware. I’m not finished yet but the end result I’m trying to get is a car that looks as close to original but will be a bit more reliable. My wife is tired of sitting in the grass on the side of the road while an engine either cools down or has the coil, points or linkage replaced!

 You know what you want to do with this car. My advice is to do it, have fun doing it and don’t beat yourself up over not preserving it. They all can’t be preserved!

Edited January 30, 2023 by yachtflame (see edit history)

[SC38dls]

Maybe offer it in the Buick section of the forum. I have no idea if that would help but you say some parts fit other Buicks maybe someone there would buy it?  Just a suggestion. 
dave s

[Kingdomtraveler]

On 1/28/2023 at 3:51 PM, Rusty_OToole said:

Advertise it honestly with plenty of pictures and sell it for what you can get. Don't waste your time and money working on a car if your heart is not in it. Someone else may need a parts car, or even want to restore it, who knows. It is neither use nor ornament to you.

Any project or job tends to become a curse if your heart is not in it. 

[arcticbuicks]

I love to tear into a project ....once i have it thought out

[arcticbuicks]

so.........i have a local offer of $3000. for this car .......the guy builds beautiful streetrods for customers,but wants it for himself

[Matt Harwood]

Take the money and run.

[arcticbuicks]

i agree......and then i can go to hershey and get a complete grand style car

[60FlatTop]

A car's greatest value is when it is as complete as possible. I have bought similar cars in the past and parted them out. It takes 3 to 4 years of work in disassembly, marketing, and shipping to sell the greatest percentage of the salable parts. If you net $3,000 at the end you will be doing well.

 

I would try for that $3,000 first without the work. And I have done that.

 

Step one is to spend two days cleaning the car as if you were going to a show. (Well, that's after taking it off the trailer.) Air up the tires. Wipe everything down so it looks cared for. Polish anything that will shine. Even pitted stuff, shine between the pits. Remove the big crud.

 

If the doors don't close right be gracious and operate them for the buyer. If it needs a tire put one on and adjust the price.

 

There are at least 300 $100 jobs sitting there. You know it. Find a buyer who doesn't.

 

If it looks real good to you after cleaning keep it for the long term. Don't do the cheap thing and tear it all apart in a week. It may never get back together again.

 

There are plenty of one day jobs to be done. One a week for a year would be 50 of them if you take a two week hiatus.

 

And never allow yourself to be influenced by peer pressure. Consider that to be hobby dogma. Sometimes at lunch meetings I notice that I smile and laugh more than many members. And I leave the waitress a bigger tip as well.

[arcticbuicks]

yes .....true and i have enough stuff and some thinning of the herd ,on to the next 

[SC38dls]

What are you spending time here for go find the guy with $3000 bucks and grab the dollars then run. You can throw him the paper work and address where to pick it up as you run away. Just don’t choke him with your heel dust. 
dave s 

[arcticbuicks]

lol,he was here last night and looked it over in the shop with his friends i know,his word is good and nice thing is ....no paperwork

[John Bloom]

1 hour ago, arcticbuicks said:

so.........i have a local offer of $3000. for this car .......the guy builds beautiful streetrods for customers,but wants it for himself

It seems there is a clear path forward here. Don’t overthink this. 
 

Think of the hours you’ll have saved in not taking the project on, compute what you make professionally with that amount of time freed up, and go buy a better car.

 

if you are able to do what I suggest, open a counseling service and charge a significant fee to help others here on the Forum avoid going down the pathway that you were almost on. There’s a lot of money to be made doing that!

 

 

 

 

[Fargoguy]

9 minutes ago, arcticbuicks said:

lol,he was here last night and looked it over in the shop with his friends i know,his word is good and nice thing is ....no paperwork

Sounds like a great solution! Congrats!

[arcticbuicks]

@John Bloom hahaha .....yes i think we all have an addiction or illness of a sort.......and i have over a hundred cars ,most are coming along though and some just staying in patina state but refreshed [been posting some on  [unrestored car appreciation thread yesturday ] .....im doomed .....theres no cure in sight.....one dosnt make a difference yet 

Edited January 31, 2023 by arcticbuicks (see edit history)

[1937McBuick]

I think you may have found a solution to your dilemma.

It's likely safe to assume you don't have $3000 into that car.... yet.

Treat your buyer with respect because you never know if you might have another opportunity to sell him something again.

[arcticbuicks]

yes thanks,and now i should pull another car out of the shed into the shop and get it done 

[60FlatTop]

Of all the things I have tried to teach my wife since 1974 she appears to have only remembered one concept. I brought home a car and she said "I though you weren't going to buy any more work."

I sell cars like that to get money to buy good ones.

 

I do have to admit that I did teach my wife how to shine men's shoes, but I have no idea if she remembered.

[John_Mereness]

On 1/29/2023 at 3:36 PM, Buffalowed Bill said:

John,

 

I'm not going to go to the wall over this, but I really question your contention that 90 Series parts are in demand. I think Arctic has answered that with a resounding No! How long does he have to wait before the demand surfaces? Is this dream of conservation going to be satisfied by selling the few parts that might be needed? How long will he have to store the parts if he dismantles the car? Then there is the time and effort involved in dismantling, cataloging and storing parts. 

 

So many of us have put ourselves behind the eight ball by dismantling and storing parts over the years. Parts that we once deemed irreplaceable became available with a short internet search. I, like some of you, have a stash of parts that I can't give away. When I was forty yo, time was not critical. Today at nearly 79 there are few options left. Then there is the fact that over the last forty years I have move and stored these thing three times.

 

With all due respect to Paul and the restomods, all beautiful and laudable, does anyone but me see a 40, 50 or 80 Series in a little different light then the way I look at this Canadian built 90 Series? Maybe yes and maybe no, but regardless I don't think that we would be having this conversation if this car was a 40 Series Buick. I'm not answering many of these questions. I wish I could answer all of them, but I can't answer some of them for myself. 

Nobody wants a parts car, nobody wants title issues, and nobody wants border issues  -  but I guarentee they do want your parts from the parts car  (also, consider putting the parts at 1/2 of what you think they are worth when you take them off and do volume).

 

And, why would you try to sell every piece and ....., store and ..... ?

 

And, yes, I have a boat anchor collection too - need an Auburn rear axel ?