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need tips for installing tire on demountable rim without scraping off paint


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Rims are freshly primed. I managed to get the tire onto the rim up to Fig. 8 in the "Changing Tire" procedure using a tire iron only once.   Then it gets real difficult unless a lot of paint is sacrificed by a lot of metal on metal  prying with the tire iron.  Fig. 8 shows a jack handle or speedwrench prying against the overlapping locking tab which isn't really that strong. It took a lot of force with the tire iron to get the rim end to make this jump.  Then I could not get the ends that final 1/4" until a hydraulic jack was placed inside the rim.  The final damage was when the "handle" of the locking tab bent out as I was trying to close the lock.  A lot of primer got scraped off getting this tire on.  Any tips for tire installing without losing so much paint ?  

Do those rim spreaders with a hand crank make this go any easier ?

Kevin 

1.jpg

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changing tire.jpg

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Note that the 3 legged hand crank spreaders were made and sold by non-rim companies! Such items can easily bend a rim and make more problems than they relieve. No rim manufacturer recommended them. A bent rim is VERY tough to straighten( semantics for make round again)!

Try putting a plastic garbage bag between surfaces that would rub together and over your tire iron. Lubricate the tire with a bit dishwashing soap in water.

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1 hour ago, Oregon Desert model 45 said:

Any tips for tire installing without losing so much paint ?  

I have a couple of rim spreaders and you know where I live.  I think I have one to sell too!

Also, I use aluminum rattle can paint that is easy to touch-up.

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Kevin:

Be carefull out there! From my own experience on the changing of the 600X22 spare on my 1925-45. MOST IMPORTANT! The photo diagram steps work well on newer fresh flexible tires. The replacement (what I felt as a flexible tire) a probably pre-WWII U.S. Peerless was a fight. Using the rim spreader/tire irons etc. corn startch RUGLIDE etc. I could not get the last section to drop over so the rim was parallel all around. Fig. 8 and 9. I had a 5' digging bar to help as I leaned into it I heard a loud "POP". The sound had nothing to do with the rim or tire, It was my right shoulder rotator cuff. The pain was undecribable! I was out of commision for over 6 weeks.

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That tire is only about 37 years old, so not quite petrified like some I have encountered on old wheels.  I smeared liquid dishwashing soap around the tire which made it somewhat easier than the tire I installed on the other rim, which lost even more paint to the tire iron.   That primer is not the most friendly for touch up since it is epoxy primer with 4:1 mix ratio.   I was hesitant to put the jack in there, but neither tire iron or big screwdriver were effective in spreading it that last 1/4" to get the pin lined up to the hole in the overlapping tab.   

Kevin 

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The hydraulic jack setup in the one photo is a very viable way to get things done.  I have gone that route a couple of times and it works.  As was mentioned, a person has to be careful so as not to bend a rim.  The other point is the condition of the tire.  Mounting split rims into new tires is a piece of cake compared to working with 50+ years old, hardened rubber tires.  I have used corn starch on the tubes and tires proper to help things move and/or slide a bit and I am here to say that this approach works and works really well.  I personally cannot speak about mounting painted split rims.  I do know a bit about working with Cad plated rims.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

AACA Life Member #947918

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I notice you used the tubes with the rubber valve stem. Big no no. You should always go with the brass valve stem with the nut that tightens on it. 

 

With the rubber one, the tube can slip relative to the rim and the rim will sever that valve stem right off giving you a flat tire. Ask me how I know.

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7 hours ago, Morgan Wright said:

You should always go with the brass valve stem with the nut that tightens on it. 

Not true.  If you keep a minimum of 50# in your tires you will not shear the stems. 

However, longer metal stems are typically needed for wheels with wood fellows.  

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I have always had good luck with the hydraulic jack method provided you don't get crazy and apply too much pressure and deform the rim.  Work slowly and watch what is happening.  Use  just enough pressure to almost get the ends aligned and then use a large screwdrive for the final alignment.  I used a very small pin striping type paint brush to deal with the minor scratches.  Good luck.

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Maybe not for the final expansion of a split rim, but for prying tires, especially clinchers, onto rims, wooden “irons” work great. Saw the idea years ago in Tom Reese’ “Brass Tacks” column in AA.  Make them from the top 16” or so of a broken pool cue. Platypus the end on your belt sander. Tire moves, paint stays…….

 

Local pool hall had a 55 gal drum half full of broken cues……

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