Terry Wiegand Posted June 18, 2022 Share Posted June 18, 2022 (edited) I have never had anything in my life leave me so confused and utterly helpless as the engine in this car. On Thursday afternoon (06/16) at about 1:30 in the afternoon, I stepped on the starter pedal and the engine came to life and ran beautifully for between 25 and 30 minutes. I shut it off because my son-in-law was going to stop by after he got off work. We were going to listen to it run when he got here and possibly take the car for a small drive after our evening meal. I tried to start the engine after he got here with no luck whatsoever. We are both of the opinion that something might have got sucked into the carburetor through the fuel line because there were some small particles in the inline fuel filter between the gasoline tank and the vacuum tank. I took the carburetor off the manifold and took the high pressure air hose to every place possible on the carburetor. I flushed the vacuum tank with fresh 100% gasoline. After everything was thoroughly cleaned and blown dry I went to work setting everything back together. Everything that anyone has posted with regard to the Marvel carburetor settings has been tried multiple times. The ignition system was checked and that coil produces a hot blue spark that jumps better than 3/8 of an inch. We pulled the plugs and they are bone dry. The carburetor has one of Greg Lange's Nitrophyl floats in it that appears to be working perfectly. After stepping on the starter pedal for approximately 10 seconds and letting up the gasoline just runs out the air intake. We have tried every needle setting suggested to no avail. We have tried messing with the air screw with no results whatsoever in that area. I need to mention that the fuel being used is 100% pure gasoline (none of that alcohol crap). Here is what I am asking - IF THERE IS ANYONE OUT THERE WHO IS KNOWLEDGABLE ABOUT THIS ERA OF BUICK ENGINE AND THE MARVEL CARBURETORS USED ON THEM, I WANT TO HEAR FROM YOU. IF YOU ARE WITHIN A 2, 3, 4 HUNDRED MILE RADIUS OF HUTCHINSON, KANSAS AND WOULD BE WILLING TO TRAVEL TO HELP ME GET THIS CAR RUNNING PROPERLY, I WANT TO HEAR FROM YOU. WE ARE DEAD SERIOUS ABOUT THIS REQUEST - THIS CAR NEEDS TO BE RUNNING LIKE WE KNOW IT CAN. WE WILL COMPENSATE THE RIGHT PERSON WHO CAN HELP US GET THIS CAR RUNNING CORRECTLY AND PROPERLY. My contact information is as follows - Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas 67505-2038 Phone - (620) 665-7672 email - renobuickman@gmail.com If you cannot give the help that I am asking for, do not waste your time and mine. Edited July 11, 2022 by Terry Wiegand (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldtech Posted June 19, 2022 Share Posted June 19, 2022 At Risk of wasting a little time... it sounds to me like the vacuum tank float has sunk. If gas is pouring out of the carb after 10 seconds of cranking and you haven't choked it to death, the gas must be coming from the vacuum tank. Disconnect the pipe from the manifold to the tank and plug it. Then try a normal start. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock10 Posted June 19, 2022 Share Posted June 19, 2022 🙁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbking Posted June 19, 2022 Share Posted June 19, 2022 Also at risk of wasting a bit of time: Fuel runs out the air intake after 10 seconds cranking, and the plugs are dry???? Why are the plugs dry when there is obviously fuel in the air intake of the carburetor??? Stay with it, you will find the answer. Jon 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stude17 Posted June 19, 2022 Share Posted June 19, 2022 I agree with Oldtech that your problem is in the vacuum tank. However, I would suggest that what is happening is the vacuum is not being cut off when the tank is full and fuel is being drawn along the vacuum line into the intake manifold. The vacuum cut off is a needle and seat in the tank top and with old diecast the brass seat can become loose causing the problem. This can happen intermittently. Either secure the brass seat or replace the top with one that does not have a loose seat . Numerous posts are on this forum with regard to this issue. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted June 19, 2022 Share Posted June 19, 2022 (edited) Keep in mind, it ran fine for 25 minutes until you shut it off. It didn't shut off by itself, you shut it off. This means the vacuum tank is fine. Vacuum tanks when the engine is idling typically suck for 15 seconds and drain for 2 minutes, then suck for 15 seconds and drain for 2 minutes, the cycle is 2 minutes and change at idle speed. If your car idled for 25 minutes, that means it went through 10 cycles of the vacuum tank without a problem. So, the vacuum tank is fine. . Edited June 22, 2022 by Morgan Wright (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted June 19, 2022 Share Posted June 19, 2022 I just spoke with Terry and gave him step by step dirctions to eliminate each item that might prevent starting. Clean the plugs... He ran very rich for the first 20 minutes. Test spark at the plugs to eliminate ignition issues. Try starting with full choke (hand over intake) & cover off fuel bowl to eliminate vacuum tank issues. Eliminate any vacuum leaks from wipers or vacuum tank. After starting, adjust carb to run leaner and relocate fuel filter between the vacuum tank and carb. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted June 19, 2022 Share Posted June 19, 2022 Terry, Starting fluid is my friend when tyring to establish an engine that may not be completely in tune, or has sat idle for more than a couple of weeks. It really takes the load off a starter motor. Use 2 people. Fully retard the spark. Set the hand throttle where the hand lever pulls the gas pedal towards the floor about 1/4" from the resting position. I would give it a 2 second shot into the carburtetor, and then close the choke. Immediately crank the engine. Be prepared to give it another shot once it fires to keep the engine turning. If all goes well you will notice that the engine will begine to run in it's own. If you notice after several attempts that the engine is not firing, then open the choke and hold the foot pedal to the floor. Crank the engine. This is the "clear the flooded engine" position. Sometimes there is too much fuel and it will not start. If neither of the above works, then you have an ignition problem. Hugh 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Wiegand Posted June 20, 2022 Author Share Posted June 20, 2022 Jon, Here are photos of the float, float bowl needle, and the float bowl seat. This is what came from Mark and Larry at Classic Carburetors in Phoenix. After you have had a chance to go over these photos I would like to visit with you again. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted June 20, 2022 Share Posted June 20, 2022 Personally I don’t think there is anything wrong with it, it ran fine for 30 minutes I think you flooded it on the re-start and then started taking things apart and lost all the settings where it ran well Stop tearing it apart and get it back setting wise where it ran well No choke. Use the starting fluid 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldtech Posted June 20, 2022 Share Posted June 20, 2022 I agree with Brian. just wouldn't bother with starting fluid. These engines start right up when all is well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Wiegand Posted June 20, 2022 Author Share Posted June 20, 2022 Guys, I do not want to come across as argumentative about this but there is something not right going on here. When gasoline comes pouring out the end of the air intake, that is a little bit more than a flooded engine. After talking with Jon, he asked me to post some detailed photos of the needle and seat for the float bowl. The problem with the water pump has been corrected and things in that area are working fine now. This engine has roughly one hour of run time on it since being completely rebuilt. I had the folks at Classic Carburetors rebuild the unit for this car almost 10 years ago. It sat in the box on my bench until it was put into use last year. On two separate occasions I was able to start the engine with it. Based on what I am seeing here and now I simply do not know how this happened. This whole situation defies common sense. It has been verified that there is good fire through the plugs. The valves are seating properly giving good compression (55-60 lbs on each cylinder). There is nothing wrong with the timing - that has been checked again. Until someone can explain why gasoline comes pouring out the intake of the carburetor when the engine has stopped being cranked, I am going to continue saying that there is something internally wrong with the carburetor. It does not do this on the 1920 and these two carburetors are basically the same. The plugs have been pulled and cleaned (they were carboned up but dry) and they are NOS AC Titan plugs like what was in the engine when the car left the factory. Both times that the engine ran with these plugs it ran just fine. There is something not right going on with this carburetor and we will get to the bottom of things. I have came too damn far with this restoration and I am not about to give up now. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock10 Posted June 20, 2022 Share Posted June 20, 2022 I hesitate to comment because I'm totally ignorant of the system. The carb is updraft, right? Is the fuel gravity fed? Do you have manifold vacuum while cranking? Does it try to fire at all? My first thought was maybe the throttle plate wasn't opening. I don't think that would explain the fuel leaking out of the carb though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
27donb Posted June 20, 2022 Share Posted June 20, 2022 (edited) 1 hour ago, Terry Wiegand said: It does not do this on the 1920 and these two carburetors are basically the same. If this is true, then why not swap the proven carb off the 1920 to prove your theory correct that there is something wrong with the current 1916 carb? Edited June 20, 2022 by 27donb (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbking Posted June 20, 2022 Share Posted June 20, 2022 Terry - as I told you when we spoke, I am not sure the carburetor is the problem. Also, as we discussed, the fuel valve you have differs from the original. NOT SAYING IT WON'T WORK, BUT IT IS DIFFERENT. We use modern valves with older carburetors when we can. I was not happy with trying to use a modern valve with the Marvel because of the fact that the valve dangles from the float arm, and needs to center into the fuel valve seat. Take a look at the "pilot" prong on the tip of the needle that centers the valve into the seat. Jon. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted June 20, 2022 Share Posted June 20, 2022 2 hours ago, carbking said: Terry - as I told you when we spoke, I am not sure the carburetor is the problem. Also, as we discussed, the fuel valve you have differs from the original. NOT SAYING IT WON'T WORK, BUT IT IS DIFFERENT. I agree with Jon. I spoke with Terry yesterday and gave him step by step dirctions to eliminate each item that might prevent starting. Clean the plugs... He ran very rich for the first 20 minutes. He did that. Test spark at the plugs to eliminate ignition issues. He did that. Try starting with full choke (hand over intake) & cover off fuel bowl to eliminate vacuum tank issues. He didn't do that. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldtech Posted June 21, 2022 Share Posted June 21, 2022 On 6/18/2022 at 11:17 PM, Oldtech said: At Risk of wasting a little time... it sounds to me like the vacuum tank float has sunk. If gas is pouring out of the carb after 10 seconds of cranking and you haven't choked it to death, the gas must be coming from the vacuum tank. Disconnect the pipe from the manifold to the tank and plug it. Then try a normal start. I repeat. HAVE YOU CHECKED that the excess fuel is not coming from the vacuum tank. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stude17 Posted June 21, 2022 Share Posted June 21, 2022 (edited) This thread may be helpful. Edited June 21, 2022 by Stude17 Typo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramair Posted June 21, 2022 Share Posted June 21, 2022 Terry, my two cents, three things I would do before you call the suicide prevention hotline, all of these are simple. I do not think it is the vacuum tank but why not hang a one gallon gas tank on the fire wall and cross it off the list? Next follow 27 Donb advice and trade carburetor with your other Buick. last is a trick I use to do on one of my cars, if you have flooded the engine and then tinkered around with it for awhile, a bump start or pull start sometimes does the trick, I prefer it to spraying a lot of starting fluid. I mean don’t get me wrong I have a few vehicles that are addicted to starting fluid, I just think it’s not good to wash down the cylinders on a freshly rebuilt engine, good luck and I am sure you will overcome this, 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stude17 Posted June 21, 2022 Share Posted June 21, 2022 4 hours ago, Oldtech said: I repeat. HAVE YOU CHECKED that the excess fuel is not coming from the vacuum tank. Up to the OP what he does but if this was happening to one of my engines I would doing this as a matter of urgency. I strongly suspect that fuel is being drawn from the vacuum tank along the vacuum line and into the inlet manifold. The longer this goes on eg attempting to start it some of this fuel is sure to find it's way into the sump diluting the oil with obvious consequences. I just cannot understand this obsession that the problem is the carburetor. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbaron1930 Posted June 21, 2022 Share Posted June 21, 2022 Hi Terry; Sorry to hear your having problems. I have had the vacuum tank vacuum valve stick open on my D-45, and yes it will cause raw gas to be sucked directly into the manifold and it will drip out the carb. However even with this, the engine would stall at idle, but I was never not able to start it (with throttle open) it would run so rich that raw gas would come out the exhaust. My point being I would think you should get something out of it even if this were the problem. I think you might be missing something, if it were me I would clear my head of all expectations and start the diagnostic steps from the beginning. Remember if it were easy everybody would have a great running car! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Wiegand Posted June 21, 2022 Author Share Posted June 21, 2022 I asked for help with this situation and I have received a lot of support from you guys out there. I literally had to step back a bit for my own emotional and mental well being. Thank you for your help with this issue. I really appreciate all of your comments about what is going on. Let me give a little background as to what has gone on up to this point. I had the folks at Classic Carburetors in Phoenix go through this particular unit almost 10 years ago. Mark called me and gave me the tracking number so that I would know when to expect the package. It got here, I opened the box and checked things over, and I then closed the box back up and put it in the bottom drawer of my desk out in the shop. It was around this same time that I sent the vacuum tank out to John Wolf and Company in Ohio for restoration. Again, the piece got back home, was checked over, and set aside for later use. As time has gone by the engine has been completely rebuilt, the car has been completely re-upholstered, a new top and side curtains were made. While all of this was going on I had absolutely no idea that when it came time to install the carburetor there was going to be any problem of any kind. We get to August of last year and the water pump bushing sidelined the whole process. It's start over again. I can say at this point that last year the engine started with no issues and ran well until the water pump went South. We get to last week and the engine started and ran really well for between 20 and 30 minutes. Shut it off and haven't been able to get it started since. I have cleaned the plugs, ran a compression check on all cylinders, checked the ignition system and found hot fire at the plugs. Checked the timing to see if anything might have changed - it didn't. I spoke with John Wolf this morning about the vacuum tank. He told me that if the engine had ran for almost half an hour last week, he felt very confident that the vacuum tank is operating properly. I will agree with his thinking on that point. In Jon's posting yesterday he says that the fuel valve that I have in my unit is different from original, but he did not say that it would not work. I opened the petcock on the side of the oil pan to see just what might be running out. I do not hear worth a crap, but my sniffer works really well. I did not detect any odor from gasoline at this point. Mark Shaw has given me some really good advice as to how to proceed from this point. I am going to wait until my son-in-law comes by after work and we are going to step on the starter pedal again with the car outside of the building and the CO2 Fire Extinguisher close at hand. Who knows, I might get lucky and it will start. Will keep this thread updated. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Wiegand Posted June 21, 2022 Author Share Posted June 21, 2022 It is 103 degrees in the shade right now. We tried for about 5 separate times to get the engine to start with absolutely no luck. Please keep in mind that we did 'exactly' as Mark Shaw outlined for us to do. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted June 21, 2022 Share Posted June 21, 2022 Terry, I’m on tour now but please call me on Monday. Do yourself a favor. Take a break from the car for a few days. Find another distraction and enjoy yourself for a few days. I’m happy to get on the phone with you and walk through everything. I suspect you may have multiple issues now. It all of this was easy, everyone would have a Pebble Beach show car that runs 100 mph. We will get you past this……….Ed. 6 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldtech Posted June 22, 2022 Share Posted June 22, 2022 20 hours ago, ramair said: Terry, my two cents, three things I would do before you call the suicide prevention hotline, all of these are simple. I do not think it is the vacuum tank but why not hang a one gallon gas tank on the fire wall and cross it off the list? Next follow 27 Donb advice and trade carburetor with your other Buick. last is a trick I use to do on one of my cars, if you have flooded the engine and then tinkered around with it for awhile, a bump start or pull start sometimes does the trick, I prefer it to spraying a lot of starting fluid. I mean don’t get me wrong I have a few vehicles that are addicted to starting fluid, I just think it’s not good to wash down the cylinders on a freshly rebuilt engine, good luck and I am sure you will overcome this, Actually. using an alternative fuel source doesn't work unless you disconnect the VACUUM LINE from the manifold. If the tank is malfunctioning it will suck gas in through that line. The scenario I'm thinking is that the float has a pinhole, it ran for the first 1/2 hr. fine, sat for several hours during which the float slowly filled with fuel, then promptly flooded when tried to restart. This is why I'm pushing to disconnect that line, then try starting it. Yes, I've seen it happen on a 27. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Wiegand Posted June 22, 2022 Author Share Posted June 22, 2022 Oldtech, At this point I don't think it would be wise to dismiss anything. But please explain how this engine can be cranked over repeatedly and all of the plugs remain bone dry. It would seem logical that if the vacuum was being maintained in the cylinders, all of the plugs would be sopping wet with fuel and thus flooded out. There has got to be something going on here that is so simple that it is being overlooked. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted June 22, 2022 Share Posted June 22, 2022 42 minutes ago, Oldtech said: Actually. using an alternative fuel source doesn't work unless you disconnect the VACUUM LINE from the manifold. If the tank is malfunctioning it will suck gas in through that line. The scenario I'm thinking is that the float has a pinhole, it ran for the first 1/2 hr. fine, sat for several hours during which the float slowly filled with fuel, then promptly flooded when tried to restart. This is why I'm pushing to disconnect that line, then try starting it. Yes, I've seen it happen on a 27. Nytrophyl float is a closed cell structure it can't get a pin hole leak. I had Terry pull the carb cover and check for float function and level and flow. All good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted June 22, 2022 Share Posted June 22, 2022 Still waiting to hear if you can get it to bark with no choke and starting fluid. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted June 22, 2022 Share Posted June 22, 2022 Also check the choke function. Is it possible there is no air flow to the engine? Choke closed dead shut? Don't think you have the newer barrel style choke but had a guy here with a choke rod that fell off, he was tuning the choke knob all over the place but it never moved the choke. You can also install the square rod used on these in four positions but only one is correct He connected the rod (correctly) and the engine started and ran fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted June 22, 2022 Share Posted June 22, 2022 The mystery is why the plugs are not wet. So continue the process of elimination. Is the exhaust blocked? See if you feel exhaust pressure at the tail pipe when cranking. If all else fails, squirt a thimble full of fresh gas into each spark plug hole (just like the old priming valves). Reinstall the plugs and try to start it without choke. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted June 22, 2022 Share Posted June 22, 2022 (edited) 3 hours ago, Oldtech said: Actually. using an alternative fuel source doesn't work unless you disconnect the VACUUM LINE from the manifold. If the tank is malfunctioning it will suck gas in through that line. The scenario I'm thinking is that the float has a pinhole, it ran for the first 1/2 hr. fine, sat for several hours during which the float slowly filled with fuel, then promptly flooded when tried to restart. This is why I'm pushing to disconnect that line, then try starting it. Yes, I've seen it happen on a 27. Wasn't that tried early on? If not it probably should be. After all "wont run" and "gas running out of the intake" are literaly the exact symptoms of this problem. 2 hours ago, Brian_Heil said: Nytrophyl float is a closed cell structure it can't get a pin hole leak. I had Terry pull the carb cover and check for float function and level and flow. All good. Referring to the vacuum tank, not the carburetor. 50 minutes ago, Mark Shaw said: The mystery is why the plugs are not wet. It implies that the engine won't pump air. Terry has already verified that the valve and ignition timing have not slipped, and that the valves are not stuck, and that it has compression. I cant explain it. It has to be pumping air. Terry said the weather is at 103 F. Maybe they just don't look wet? I agree it is extremely odd. Edited June 22, 2022 by Bloo (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbaron1930 Posted June 22, 2022 Share Posted June 22, 2022 I'm not sure it's even possible but if the carb is not atomizing the fuel, i don't think a slow cranking updraft engine will pull raw gas into the cylinders (unlike a downdraft where it has no were else to go). So even though gas is pouring out the carb it might not be getting into the cylinders. I totally agree with Mark's last suggestion about priming the cylinders it will answer several questions. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted June 22, 2022 Share Posted June 22, 2022 Using a tow strap is very effective at starting older engines. 5 to 10 miles an hour is all the speed you need. On the towed vehicle, the strap is attached on the frame at the side by a frame rail or to the lower eye beam suspension (where the spring is attached and NOT in the middle of the beam). Use cell phones to communicate. Put the car in 1st gear with the clutch pushed in. Turn the ignition on. Ease or pop the clutch once you are at 5-10 mph. Let the motor just spin and all you have to play with is the gas pedal. Once it starts, just push the clutch in and you may need to gently apply the brakes. There is some merit to the benefits of a motor just spinning and no load from the starter. Hugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
27donb Posted June 22, 2022 Share Posted June 22, 2022 4 hours ago, redbaron1930 said: I totally agree with Mark's last suggestion about priming the cylinders it will answer several questions. Exactly. This takes the carb, vacuum tank and fuel system out of the equation. Does the engine even pop when this is done? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Harper Posted June 22, 2022 Share Posted June 22, 2022 Terry, I am so sorry to hear of the frustration you are having! You have put a lot of time and effort into fixing the water pump issue and I have anxiously awaited the report of successful. The fact that it started and ran good for 25 to 30 min. means that everything was working the way it should. Usually things do not happen suddenly with the exception of major disasters. At this point, if you already have not done so I would suggest the following: prime the cylinders and have a go with it. If it fires, (even just briefly) this will all but rule out a ignition or major timing (valve/spark) issue and it bypasses the carb, fuel system etc. If it doesn't fire then you can be fairly certain its an ignition or timing issue. If it fires (even briefly) after being primed I would suggest bypassing the vacuum tank and setup a gravity feed. Be sure to plug the vacuum line. If it starts and runs than you know its a fuel supply issue from the carb to the tank. If it dosen't run than you can be fairly certain its the cab. Several things others have generously suggested, such as using starter fluid and towing to start I would avoid. Both are rather harsh methods that do not solve or identify the problem. Your not trying to start it... your trying to identify the reason it wont start. Identifying what isn't the problem is just as important as identifying what is the problem. Take a break from it. Picture it as not a frustrating problem to solve but as a interesting problem to be overcome. Than, enjoy the satisfaction of solving it. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted June 22, 2022 Share Posted June 22, 2022 7 hours ago, Hubert_25-25 said: Put the car in 1st gear with the clutch pushed in. Second or Third gear works just fine without stressing the clutch and other drive train components. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Wiegand Posted June 23, 2022 Author Share Posted June 23, 2022 The problem has been found. Luke C. from McPherson College came down this afternoon and he was able to determine that the Oldham Coupling between the end of the water pump shaft and the input end of the Starter/Generator armature is jumping out of gear and throwing the timing clear out of sync. The solution is going to be have a new coupling ring made and increase the thickness by about .080". Problem solved. I will post a photo of this piece this evening. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918 16 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted June 23, 2022 Share Posted June 23, 2022 Glad you found it, I knew it was going to be simple. The fact that it wouldn’t fire on starting fluid indicates timing issues when you have compression and spark. Good luck with the rest of the sorting. 👍 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock10 Posted June 23, 2022 Share Posted June 23, 2022 👏 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Harper Posted June 24, 2022 Share Posted June 24, 2022 3 hours ago, Terry Wiegand said: The problem has been found. Luke C. from McPherson College came down this afternoon and he was able to determine that the Oldham Coupling between the end of the water pump shaft and the input end of the Starter/Generator armature is jumping out of gear and throwing the timing clear out of sync. The solution is going to be have a new coupling ring made and increase the thickness by about .080". Problem solved. I will post a photo of this piece this evening. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918 Perfect! I had a former student who graduated from McPherson... he loved it! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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