Let’s talk about car lifts

[AdamInNH]

One of my dreams, beside having a 100’x300’ garage to supplement my all-too-tiny two car garage, is a car lift. I have terrific motorcycle lift, from when I had a motorcycle shop. I am not a fan of laying on the floor, cramped for space, crap dripping on my face. Getting up 27 times to retrieve the right tool, only to see that I didn’t grab the correct size wrench.
 

Thing is, I have only 8’9” to the bottom of the ceiling joists. My car at present, a ‘32 Pierce-Arrow is right at 6’ tall. So, even with a lift, I have very limited clearance. But, it’s better than jackstands.
 

I’ve looked at permanent-install two post asymmetrical lifts, portable two post lifts, portable single post lifts (these seem scary to me). I am thinking about a four-post lift, so that when the weather is decent, I can roll it out of the garage, raise the car up high enough to stand, or at least use a seated-creeper underneath rather than working on my back. Work in my garage may still be on my back but the undercarriage won’t be 6” above my face. 

 

For decades, Backyard Buddy has been on my radar. The company that makes these now makes a Chinese lift of similar design, where there are collars that go around the vertical posts,  https://www.advantagelifts.com/products/work-force-by-backyard-buddy and https://www.advantagelifts.com/pages/advantage-4-post-lifts. I am not tied to these, especially and would like to know what sort of lifts y’all have, why you selected the one you did and whether you’ve experienced any issues. Seems most lifts are Hecho en China, these days. No doubt there are good ones, and some garbage ones hiding under a shiny paint job. 
 

My main criteria are: Safety - I do not want to have a 5000 lb car smoosh me, reliability, durability and hassle-free operation, availability of service parts, accessibility of the manufacturer for technical assistance. I am not looking to cheap-out, here. A few thousand dollars isn’t going to make a difference in the big scheme of life, when the above factors are considerations. 
 

All that said, help me understand where to go.  Thanks!

Edited December 25, 2021 by AdamInNH
Grammar fix (see edit history)

[Matt Harwood]

Backyard Buddy is a really good lift, but quite expensive. I have a Bend-Pak 10,000 pound lift that's extra long for big cars and trucks, and it was about 80% of the price of a regular Backyard Buddy. I also have two mediocre Chinese lifts that I got from a friend for pennies, and they're fine for regular cars and light duty stuff like photography and changing oil. They're rated to 7000 pounds, but there's no way I'm putting my Buick limo or something like a Power Wagon on them--those go on the big lift. I personally use only 4-post drive-on lifts simply because there are fewer opportunities for things to go wrong, but they aren't great for working on brakes and other things that require the wheels off the ground. All my lifts came with wheel kits so I can move them around and they don't need to be anchored to the floor. They're quite stable.

 

My advice is to buy the best lift you can afford with a weight rating far beyond anything you'll be putting on it. Remember, if you're working on the car, you're going to be yanking and pulling, so you don't want one that's unsteady with a load on it. Get one that doesn't even blink at the big stuff and you'll never think twice about putting it in the air.

 

Buy a good one and you'll never regret it. Buy a cheap one and you'll always think twice when that thing starts to creak a bit with a heavy car on it.

 

 

[joe_padavano]

You're unfortunately going to spend a ton of money on a two post lift that you can only use to get the car 3 ft off the ground. Personally I'd start by lifting the garage (assuming it isn't attached to a house). A friend of mine actually used his four post lift to raise his garage and extended the wall under it.

 

Failing that, a low-rise scissor lift might be a better choice.

 

[AdamInNH]

Matt:

 

Considering the value of the car - and my safety, unless the price of the lift is in the stratosphere, the price is a minor consideration. I’ll look at Bend-Pak again. I am not looking to economize here, at all. One trip to the emergency room is more costly than the priciest lift. 

 

Joe:

 

I’ve considered the cost and effort to raise the attic and roof of the garage. It’s impractical and I could tear this one down and build it from the ground-up for about the same. It’s not trivial. Then, I still have a two car garage, so it’s a non-starter. 
 

I’ve looked at the scissor lifts, but the accessibility to the undercarriage is very limited. 

 

[joe_padavano]

28 minutes ago, AdamInNH said:

Joe:

 

I’ve considered the cost and effort to raise the attic and roof of the garage. It’s impractical and I could tear this one down and build it from the ground-up for about the same. It’s not trivial. Then, I still have a two car garage, so it’s a non-starter. 
 

I’ve looked at the scissor lifts, but the accessibility to the undercarriage is very limited. 

 

The shortest Bendpak two post lift needs a minimum 9ft ceiling, and then you have a crossbar that gives you even less net lift for your 32. If your ceiling is unfinished, and assuming the trusses go the right way, maybe you can fit the lift posts up between them. That still doesn't help with total available lift however, and that's only a 7,000 lb rated lift. That's about the shortest two post I've seen, unless you want one of the MaxJax portable two post lifts, which kind of scare me. Even the "low ceiling" baseplate style lifts have columns over nine ft tall.

 

https://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/two-post-lifts/gp-7lcs/

 

 

 

[Bloo]

Well, as a retired mechanic who has used all of the things mentioned so far, I'll say this.

 

For professional automotive service, four post lifts are all but useless. They are just too in the way. There are exceptions, for instance a dedicated wheel alignment hoist, where they can be a good thing. Also, if all you work on is prewar, you might be able to get away with a four post, because almost everything important is in the center of the car.

 

On the other hand if you are going to work on more modern cars, like mid 50s or newer, don't sell your jackstands. If you go four post, you'll use them almost as much as you did before. That goes double if any of the cars you work on are front wheel drive.

 

There is no way I would have ever signed on at a shop if I was going to be stuck on a four post hoist.

 

Two post hoists are more useful than anything else, especially 2 post hoists that have the posts offset toward the front. There are some jobs you cannot do on a 2-post, but those jobs are a small minority. If I was buying hoists, and had room for only one, an offset 2 post would be the winner hands down. Someone will no doubt point out that you have to get down on your knees about 4 times to set the hoist. That's true. My knees hurt and I don't want to do it. It doesn't change anything. It still beats jack stands.

 

You do need ceiling clearance. As others suggested I would work on that first.

 

 

Edited December 25, 2021 by Bloo (see edit history)

[AdamInNH]

Thanks for your input, Bloo. Sadly, I am stuck with the physical space I have; kinda sux. The two post doesn’t give me the flexibility to move it outside in good weather. If I had more ceiling height, I’d go that route. I am not sure if the concrete floor is thick enough for mounting, at this point. 

 

A friend of mine did a lot of research and just purchased this lift, which he’s having professionally installed next week, https://www.apluslift.com/collections/car-lifts/products/apluslift-2-post-car-lift-hw-10kbp. His cars are all modern, newer Corvette, Porsche Cayman and a Fiat 500 electric. I am anxious to see how things go with his install.

[JACK M]

I have a four post that has a sliding adjustable jack and also a heavy sliding tray that I can use bottle jacks on.

This is by far the most convenient set up that I can think of.

Nothing above in the way and when bottomed its probably about six inches high. So maybe there could be room for a rolling stool or the likes. Albeit my quick math suggests that may only be 2 feet with your six foot car.

It also has a system that uses the weight of the treads to cantilever a set of swivel casters that I have never used since I easily rolled into place.

This might be just what you are looking for.

I can only suggest that if you are going to roll it outside that you have a very level and strong enough pad outside of your door.

All to often will a two poster piss you off because you can't get a car door open.

 

My lift would easily lift hard enough to damage a ceiling as well as car roof. Good thing I have about twelve feet. I had better knock on wood.

Seriously though, I have enough room to lift bodies and I can lift my boat off of the trailer.

You are going to get a lot of opinions about lifts here, It has been discussed often.

[c49er]

IMO if you are older 2 posts suck!

I hate crawling on the floor setting pads.......

 having to to move vehicles forward...whoops now back a bit...oh shit now I need to floor jack it sideways 4" so the rt front pad hits the frame etc.

Also have to remember on two posters to generally un latch the doors/ tops on older convertibles so the door striker and latches don't tear apart because of frame flex.

On old the cars I use both 2 and 4 posters.

I like the quickness of driving right on the 4 post and using dual rolling Jack's for most all service ...a must for exhaust etc.

I only use the extended high lift limo 4 posters for my vintage car shop work.

Yeah in a Ammco or Firestone shop... 2 post for all but alignments.

This ought to put some fire in this thread🤣

[Guest]

 I have a two post lift and I have it bolted to the overhead I beam in my ceiling.

 I also use tall jack stands on both ends of the car for stability.

 You can never be to safe!   👍

 

 Ps, when I have the car 2" off of the floor, I shake it hard in order to knock it off, if it doesn't fall, I know that it's on well.   😮 (once it did slip!)

[AdamInNH]

9 hours ago, c49er said:

IMO if you are older 2 posts suck!

I hate crawling on the floor setting pads.......

 having to to move vehicles forward...whoops now back a bit...oh shit now I need to floor jack it sideways 4" so the rt front pad hits the frame etc.

Also have to remember on two posters to generally un latch the doors/ tops on older convertibles so the door striker and latches don't tear apart because of frame flex.

On old the cars I use both 2 and 4 posters.

I like the quickness of driving right on the 4 post and using dual rolling Jack's for most all service ...a must for exhaust etc.

I only use the extended high lift limo 4 posters for my vintage car shop work.

Yeah in a Ammco or Firestone shop... 2 post for all but alignments.

This ought to put some fire in this thread🤣

Tell me about your 4 post lift. Which one do you have? Also, tell me about the jacks and jack platforms. Would you buy the very same lift again? 

[Bhigdog]

Thinking out side the box here but depending on a whole lot of variable factors a pit rather than a lift may make more sense. I have both a pit and a 2 post lift. I seldom use the pit anymore but it was my "go to" for many years.

Whatever you do it will be a compromise. There is no...... "It does everything perfectly"...........Bob

[Mark Shaw]

I have three 7,000 LB 4 post lifts for both storage and shop work for my prewar Buicks. 

All lifts must be safety rated to be sold here in the USA.

All work well and have wheel kits to move them around.  

They are easy to use and come with movable cross members to jack up axles etc.

Each one literally doubles the storage capacity of your building.

[c49er]

3 hours ago, AdamInNH said:

Tell me about your 4 post lift. Which one do you have? Also, tell me about the jacks and jack platforms. Would you buy the very same lift again? 

AI have a 2005  Rotary 12,000LB. commercial extended length lift..model SMO123EL2...22'9" OAL. Open end.

I also have a 2010 BendPak model HD14TLX.......14,000lb extended length and extra tall lift. 19-1/2' runway length.

Also has two RJ7 rolling 7000LB. air jacks.

The lifts are long so as I can drive and move cars any which way under them.

The posts are so wide and so long as not to be in the way.

 

 

 

 

Edited December 26, 2021 by c49er (see edit history)

[JACK M]

I have a four post that has a sliding adjustable jack and also a heavy sliding tray that I can use bottle jacks on.

This is by far the most convenient set up that I can think of.

Nothing above in the way and when bottomed its probably about six inches high. So maybe there could be room for a rolling stool or the likes. Albeit my quick math suggests that may only be 2 feet with your six foot car.

It also has a system that uses the weight of the treads to cantilever a set of swivel casters that I have never used since I easily rolled into place.

This might be just what you are looking for.

I can only suggest that if you are going to roll it outside that you have a very level and strong enough pad outside of your door.

All to often will a two poster piss you off because you can't get a car door open.

 

My lift would easily lift hard enough to damage a ceiling as well as car roof. Good thing I have about twelve feet. I had better knock on wood.

Seriously though, I have enough room to lift bodies and I can lift my boat off of the trailer.

You are going to get a lot of opinions about lifts here, It has been discussed often.

 

Well, I typed this yesterday and forgot to submit.

[Ltc4748]

I do not have any setup outside but a friend of mine has a 2 post asymmetrical lift outside. My preference is a combination, I have 1 single post lift and one 2 post lift. They each have their benefits. Yes you must get on your knees to set them but, after that you can use a stool or stand to do all repairs along side or underneath. I also recommend a set of tall stands to stabilize long vehicles on any lift if you are rocking the vehicle on the rack.

[AdamInNH]

9 hours ago, Bhigdog said:

Thinking out side the box here but depending on a whole lot of variable factors a pit rather than a lift may make more sense. I have both a pit and a 2 post lift. I seldom use the pit anymore but it was my "go to" for many years.

Whatever you do it will be a compromise. There is no...... "It does everything perfectly"...........Bob

Interesting suggestion.

 

We’ve been in this house for over 16 years. At this point, going crazy, excavating a pit  and the concrete work, isn’t in the cards. The garage is only feet from our well, so I’m not sure that the pit would be practical, nor realistic from a cost standpoint. 

[AdamInNH]

9 minutes ago, Ltc4748 said:

I do not have any setup outside but a friend of mine has a 2 post asymmetrical lift outside. My preference is a combination, I have 1 single post lift and one 2 post lift. They each have their benefits. Yes you must get on your knees to set them but, after that you can use a stool or stand to do all repairs along side or underneath. I also recommend a set of tall stands to stabilize long vehicles on any lift if you are rocking the vehicle on the rack.

LTC, Is that single post lift safe? I mean do you feel safe under the car with it cantilevered out like that? If you do, what are the positives and drawbacks with this type of lift?

 

Which cars do you lift with it?

 

Which one do you have? Why did you select the brand and model that you did?

 

Tnx.

[edinmass]

Bloo........I usually agree with you. Any pre war car should go on a four post lift. Early frames flex much more than most people realize. A two post offset lift is a disaster on anything decent in size or weight. My modern repair shop serviced many hundreds of cars a month.....we used two post offset units on passenger cars without issue...........unibody cars. Working on big heavy iron, only a four post lift is safe. Especially when pounding on chassis components, and removing heavy units like rear ends that on a two post lift can cause a car to shift.....I have seen it before. Four post lifts are definitely more inconvenient.......but then again most at home shops rarely are doing much work on them. Anyone who has seen my shop will tell you it looks like a cross between  Tiffany’s, Gucci’s, and a Snap On corporate display for the ages. I use a four post 12,000 pound extra long and extra tall lift and have never had any issues wit access or ability to do any job required. That said......I do have extras with it so I can position and secure any car properly and still get the access I need. Unfortunately, they don’t allow photos in my building so I can’t show you the set up I use. Today I have a Model J on top, and a V-16 under it while we clean the building........I needed more space. The extra tall lift allows plenty of room to drive big closed cars under the ramps. Interestingly, I don’t use Snap On lifts as they have a much larger footprint than many others. My current two lifts are no longer in production.

Edited December 27, 2021 by edinmass (see edit history)

[MikeC5]

I've had a MaxJax for 4 years (garage is only 8 foot ceiling) and for 'modern' car, where you can pick them up by the rocker panels, it works fine.  Depending on the height of the vehicle, I can either go to full lift or an intermediate position.  At full lift, I have a roll around bucket seat that works great.  If I can't go to full lift, it's still far easier than dealing with jacking things up and putting jack stands under there (and using a creeper).  Unfortunately, using any 2 post lift is notgonnahappen on your typical 19 whatever  - 1940s cars where the frame is not near the bottom of the car.  You can install up to 6" lift blocks on the lift pads to reach the frame on some cars but if the running boards are lower than the bottom of frame by more than this, you're out of luck.   So for many antique cars, I think the 4 post is the only practical way.

[AdamInNH]

1 hour ago, MikeC5 said:

I've had a MaxJax for 4 years (garage is only 8 foot ceiling) and for 'modern' car, where you can pick them up by the rocker panels, it works fine.  Depending on the height of the vehicle, I can either go to full lift or an intermediate position.  At full lift, I have a roll around bucket seat that works great.  If I can't go to full lift, it's still far easier than dealing with jacking things up and putting jack stands under there (and using a creeper).  Unfortunately, using any 2 post lift is notgonnahappen on your typical 19 whatever  - 1940s cars where the frame is not near the bottom of the car.  You can install up to 6" lift blocks on the lift pads to reach the frame on some cars but if the running boards are lower than the bottom of frame by more than this, you're out of luck.   So for many antique cars, I think the 4 post is the only practical way.

Hey Mike:

 

Solid advice, on the four post lift, thanks.

 

Your Recaro seat brought back a memory that I am sure you’ll get a kick out of. My first car was a real turd - a Ford Pinto. I ‘tricked’ it out, Hedman headers, turbo muffler, Koni shocks, Blaupunkt stereo, tires, mags, Cibie Z-Beam lights - you get the idea. I was in living L.A. at the time. The Pinto seats were crap; shocking! There was a Recaro retailer at a Porsche dealer in Pomona, CA. I went there, bought a Recaro seat with the adjustable thigh and side bolsters. I think it cost around $350 or $400, a princely sum given what I paid for the entire car. Hard to believe, but Recaro didn’t make a mounting frame for a Pinto! So they fabricated one for me. My friends called my car the Pinto Carrera. 🤣

 

Pretty sure I had the only Pinto - ever - with a Recaro driver’s seat. 

Edited December 27, 2021 by AdamInNH (see edit history)

[MikeC5]

That's great!  I had this one in an MGB for a while and had to fabricate mounts for that too.  

[Ltc4748]

AdaminNH My first job as a mechanic in 1980 was using a single post setup. I use the same design today. I have lifted vehicles from a 1915 Buick through 2020 vehicles on them. Long vehicles require you to be attentive so you do not have too much weight over hanging  center. You also have to watch doing major repairs. so the vehicle balance doesn't change enough to have it become unstable. The two post in-ground lift I use is a rotary 9k. I have lifted my 27 commander through modern cars on it also. Same deal you must be careful. Every vehicle I lift for the first time, I get the wheels off the floor about 6 inches and test the stability. If it is good I continue , if not I lower the vehicle and reposition it. I have had a few vehicles that I could not lift, they were the exception, not the normal. After market running boards were a pain to lift, this is where a 4 post ramp lift would make lifting them easier, but working on the vehicle other than exhaust became more difficult. You must lift and strain away from your body, I found it to be uncomfortable. The last garage I worked at had a 4 post ramp lift, I may have used it twice in a 1 year period, I used the rotary 2 posts several times every day on average.

On my vehicles I use a paint marker to locate the lift blocks at almost the same position every time. I do not have trailer queens or 100 point cars, what I have I drive and we have fun.

I have never dropped a car from a lift, I saw one almost go when my coworker lowered the jeep he was putting gear oil in the drivetrain on. He did not have the tall narrow hand pump barrel totally out from under the vehicle, he was lucky.

When using either lift once the vehicles vehicles wheels are off the ground, doors may open or close differently. This will happen most often on unibody vehicles. Once they are back on their wheels they work as they did before lifting them. 

I will use the single post for any work except complete exhaust system replacements, the 2 post units have a completely clear underside of the car. The single post is also good for some transmission jobs on 4wd pickups. The 2 post is usually my choice for transmissions and engine replacements. I have always liked in-ground because of them not being in the way if the vehicle is not lifted, That changed when the Ford 6.0's came out. Now I wish I had an above ground unit to pull cabs off with, that would allow me to do that work, although I really do not want more work.

All designs, above ground 2 post, in ground 2 post, single post, 4 post have there benefits. If you know the type of work you will do most pick the unit that will meet those requirements the most since that is what you will be doing the most of. If you do anything and everything on vehicles then get the one that you believe will be your best option, think safety but do not fear it to the point you make the wrong choice. All lifts are capable of being deadly. Know your style and what your actions working on the vehicle can do to the vehicles balance and use thoughtful judgement.

 

Best wishes 

 

[MikeC5]

I forgot about single post lifts.  It appears they would have the same limitation as a 2 post post as far as antique cars are concerned.

[JACK M]

Drive on four post for me.

All that crawling to set the pads are a PIA.

I think that we get lifts to make our lives easier.

I have not had any job that I could not do under my four poster with the sliding jacks.

[AdamInNH]

15 hours ago, Ltc4748 said:

AdaminNH My first job as a mechanic in 1980 was using a single post setup. I use the same design today. I have lifted vehicles from a 1915 Buick through 2020 vehicles on them. Long vehicles require you to be attentive so you do not have too much weight over hanging  center. You also have to watch doing major repairs. so the vehicle balance doesn't change enough to have it become unstable. The two post in-ground lift I use is a rotary 9k. I have lifted my 27 commander through modern cars on it also. Same deal you must be careful. Every vehicle I lift for the first time, I get the wheels off the floor about 6 inches and test the stability. If it is good I continue , if not I lower the vehicle and reposition it. I have had a few vehicles that I could not lift, they were the exception, not the normal. After market running boards were a pain to lift, this is where a 4 post ramp lift would make lifting them easier, but working on the vehicle other than exhaust became more difficult. You must lift and strain away from your body, I found it to be uncomfortable. The last garage I worked at had a 4 post ramp lift, I may have used it twice in a 1 year period, I used the rotary 2 posts several times every day on average.

On my vehicles I use a paint marker to locate the lift blocks at almost the same position every time. I do not have trailer queens or 100 point cars, what I have I drive and we have fun.

I have never dropped a car from a lift, I saw one almost go when my coworker lowered the jeep he was putting gear oil in the drivetrain on. He did not have the tall narrow hand pump barrel totally out from under the vehicle, he was lucky.

When using either lift once the vehicles vehicles wheels are off the ground, doors may open or close differently. This will happen most often on unibody vehicles. Once they are back on their wheels they work as they did before lifting them. 

I will use the single post for any work except complete exhaust system replacements, the 2 post units have a completely clear underside of the car. The single post is also good for some transmission jobs on 4wd pickups. The 2 post is usually my choice for transmissions and engine replacements. I have always liked in-ground because of them not being in the way if the vehicle is not lifted, That changed when the Ford 6.0's came out. Now I wish I had an above ground unit to pull cabs off with, that would allow me to do that work, although I really do not want more work.

All designs, above ground 2 post, in ground 2 post, single post, 4 post have there benefits. If you know the type of work you will do most pick the unit that will meet those requirements the most since that is what you will be doing the most of. If you do anything and everything on vehicles then get the one that you believe will be your best option, think safety but do not fear it to the point you make the wrong choice. All lifts are capable of being deadly. Know your style and what your actions working on the vehicle can do to the vehicles balance and use thoughtful judgement.

 

Best wishes 

 

Hey, Ltc4748 -

 

Thanks for taking the time to write this up, all great insight from you.

 

What will I use the lift for? Primarily routine service, brakes, detailing, cleaning crud off the undercarriage. Not likely to do much or any engine removal or reinstalls. The limited overhead clearance is an issue in my garage. Regardless of which path I take, I cannot raise the car more than 2.5ft inside the garage. A four-post would give me flexibility to move the lift outside when the weather permits.

[AdamInNH]

9 minutes ago, JACK M said:

Drive on four post for me.

All that crawling to set the pads are a PIA.

I think that we get lifts to make our lives easier.

I have not had any job that I could not do under my four poster with the sliding jacks.

@JACK M

Which brand and model of four post lift do you have? How’d you decide on that one compared to others?

 

Thanks. 

Edited December 31, 2021 by AdamInNH (see edit history)

[Frank DuVal]

I had two mechanic friends have cars fall off lifts. The one was a Dodge Caravan on a single post lift with the four arms. It was wet, slightly off balance and it slipped off. Only his pride was hurt, car I'm not sure of, but it was repaired. The other was a Ford Ranger on a two post lift. Not sure circumstances, as the Ranger pinned him against his Snap On tool box and killed him. Click and Clack also told of cars falling off lifts in their shop. This is told as a warning that stuff happens, even to the best of us with proper equipment. Be careful out there!😲

 

I had another friend get his Rotary two post lift stuck at the top of travel because the load was so offset the safeties wouldn't let it come down. That was a 10 PM call to me to come help, which I did and used a pogo stick to push up on the low side and get it to  lower a few inches, rinse and repeat. I was puckered the whole time!😲 trying to screw the pogo stich up while standing under the vehicle........   BE CAREFUL! 

 

I have a 10K pound Dannmar two post asymmetric lift. I try to be careful. I even bought those lift jack stands so I can yank on or remove large parts from the car without causing it to shift load. I know, people will say Harbor Freight? Isn't your life worth more? Hey, they are waaay better than those pogo stick stands I see others use....😉

 

I despise having to crawl under and set the four pads..... And having to figure out the spacer height on cars whose frame or jack points are not the same height on all four points. But this is nothing to guess at leaning over the car to set the pads🤔

 

My next lift, if ever, will be a four post lift with open front. I can dream. 😃

[Guest]

About three years ago, I helped a friend install a Backyard Buddy 7,000 lb. lift. No problems at all with the lift, I'd buy one if I had the room. Second choice was the Bendpak, heard many positive comments about them. My friend is in the San Francisco Bay Area, so he wanted the stability of a four post (earthquake country).

 

 

[kgreen]

10 hours ago, Writer Jon said:

About three years ago, I helped a friend install a Backyard Buddy 7,000 lb. lift. No problems at all with the lift, I'd buy one if I had the room. Second choice was the Bendpak, heard many positive comments about them. My friend is in the San Francisco Bay Area, so he wanted the stability of a four post (earthquake country).

 

 

 

I recall reading an article about the 1989 SF earthquake where a guys collectible corvette fell off the lift.  He had set it up to work on it and left it elevated while out of town.  I suspect the four post lift would be sturdy enough to survive a quake, but the car could still be vibrated off the lift if it wasn't tied down to the lift.

[Ltc4748]

AdaminNH. With what you plan to do I would probably use a 4 post. I work at home for family and friends doing all types of repairs. I have both lifts so I can choose my best option. The 4 posts are nice for all around but if I was consistently doing suspension repairs and brakes I would not choose the 4 post. Just my opinion.

[Bhigdog]

I can say with some authority that if you lower your car on a two post lift with an over looked standing tire under it, it WILL get your attention.

Also, awhile back I was doing something on one of my cars where I repeatedly needed to lower and raise it. Initially the 4 pads were set well and in position. After about 3 up down cycles I noticed that every time the tires touched down they shifted the car/pad placement enough that two of the pads were only holding very near their edges. YIKES!  Lesson learned and a word of warning.

Ya'll be careful now. He'ah.............Happy and safe New Year................Bob

 

[JACK M]

23 hours ago, AdamInNH said:

@JACK M

Which brand and model of four post lift do you have? How’d you decide on that one compared to others?

 

Thanks. 

I would have to look for the brand. It had XLT in the model set, meaning it is extra long and tall.

I ordered it at a roadster show so got a couple of show extras.  longer ramps and three drip trays.

I remember I had to go pick it up at a shipping terminal, but it shipped free.

I was able to assemble it by myself using an overhead winch and a cherry picker, but another helper would have been handy.

Must be ten or fifteen years old by now. And I use it most every day.

I think I paid around 4 thou for it. I guess I dont really care what it cost as it has served me well and I my tastes are simple. "I JUST WANT THE BEST"

I guess I never took any pics of the lift itself, but here are a few in use shots.

[Guest]

I agree about securing the car, too.  There was an account about a VW Beetle resting on four jackstands in a garage during that earthquake that moved about two feet sideways, car and all four stands together, without toppling off of the stands.

[AdamInNH]

On 1/1/2022 at 1:37 PM, JACK M said:

I would have to look for the brand. It had XLT in the model set, meaning it is extra long and tall.

I ordered it at a roadster show so got a couple of show extras.  longer ramps and three drip trays.

I remember I had to go pick it up at a shipping terminal, but it shipped free.

I was able to assemble it by myself using an overhead winch and a cherry picker, but another helper would have been handy.

Must be ten or fifteen years old by now. And I use it most every day.

I think I paid around 4 thou for it. I guess I dont really care what it cost as it has served me well and I my tastes are simple. "I JUST WANT THE BEST"

I guess I never took any pics of the lift itself, but here are a few in use shots.

Thanks! 
I’m with you. A few grand plus or minus makes little difference considering the value of what’s +on+ the lift and the value of what’s +under+ the lift — +ME+. 

Edited January 4, 2022 by AdamInNH (see edit history)

[f.f.jones]

Please excuse my old school methods, but I have never been around two- or four- post lifts very often - just used single-post, in-ground units. How, or with what other accessories, can you do a brake job with a drive-on ramp-style four-post lift? Can you lift the vehicle from the frame (or rockers) somehow so you can remove the wheels and brake parts, or do you need a scissors-type frame lift in addition placed between the ramps? I would prefer doing brakes standing up, not sitting on a stool.

[Bloo]

You buy optional hydraulic jacks with the lift, usually air powered, that slide back and forth in the gap. The blocks on them can be extended out under the suspension so you can jack the car up and get the wheels off. Brakes are one of the few jobs four-post lifts do pretty well.

[JACK M]

We are dating ourselves with mention of the old one post in ground lifts.

I used to run with a guy that serviced those. He always said that his business was kind of a rip off because they are so simple.

I leased a service station in the 70s (I got in on the bribes during the gas shortage days) and it had two of those in ground lifts.

I think they had two moving parts. Or was it only one. Less the pads.

I do recall grumbling every time I had to crawl under and adjust the pads. Lots of crawling when you are lifting from the bottom

unless you are already standing under there.

Edited January 4, 2022 by JACK M (see edit history)

[41Fleetwood]

  Adam, I have two of the Advantage Lifts in my garage , I like the design of the collars around the posts, I have an older XLT version and the standard size which I got Oct 2020, it has larger cables now 1/2 rather than 3/8 . If your floor is flat they move very easily on the casters but each post does not lift off the ground more than 1/2 to 1 inch, as you can see I put some pretty big cars on them they are very stable driving on and off and I have had no issues, the componets are heavy but I did my own installation with a engine hoist  (cherry picker)  . What you don't want to hear is in Oct of 2020 i paid  $1969.00 less than todays price.    Good luck 

[AdamInNH]

6 hours ago, 41Fleetwood said:

  Adam, I have two of the Advantage Lifts in my garage , I like the design of the collars around the posts, I have an older XLT version and the standard size which I got Oct 2020, it has larger cables now 1/2 rather than 3/8 . If your floor is flat they move very easily on the casters but each post does not lift off the ground more than 1/2 to 1 inch, as you can see I put some pretty big cars on them they are very stable driving on and off and I have had no issues, the componets are heavy but I did my own installation with a engine hoist  (cherry picker)  . What you don't want to hear is in Oct of 2020 i paid  $1969.00 less than todays price.    Good luck 

Hi @41Fleetwood:

I am +so+ happy that you noted how much more these cost now, than 13 months ago. The 9000-HD lift was $3583.62 in August 2020, now $5364.40. And your garage - is a dream hideout for me.
Just curious, what's the ceiling height in your garage?

 

Edited January 5, 2022 by AdamInNH (see edit history)