Ltc4748

Members
  • Content Count

    43
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

14 Good

About Ltc4748

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 10/29/1961

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Harrisburg Pennsylvania
  • Interests:
    Working on all types of vehicles and driving them. There is nothing better than taking a vehicle that has been setting for years and bring it back to life for driving and enjoying with others.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. You can test the fluid by exhaling over the opening of the tester while squeezing and releasing the rubber bulb several times. This way you will see the yellow color the fluid will turn. Then repeat squeezing the bulb several times in fresh air and the fluid will return to blue.
  2. I have seen the sealing area's around the spark plug hole pit from rust. I had a machinist make a cutter that I turn by hand to cut the surface smooth and use new copper gaskets from a hydraulic shop. I test the sealing with a spray bottle of soapy water while the engine is running to see if it still is leaking. I have good luck getting them to seal. On one hole someone popped the starting thread and it left a recess. That one I put a thread insert in so it replaced the sealing area.
  3. To check dash unit disconnect wire on sending unit and keep it away from ground, key on engine off the gauge needle should go to one end of the scale either full or empty. Next with the key still on ground the wire that went to the sending unit, gauge needle should go to the the opposite end of the scale. if the gauge responds correctly the sending unit or tank ground is bad. If gauge does not respond correctly it is either a bad voltage supply, bad wiring or a bad gauge itself.
  4. It is actually a guessing game unless you install a pressure gauge and see what the cold and hot operating pressures are. If the pressures are below around 5 psi hot idle the light will come on. you can check the sender by measuring resistance with 10 psi pressure applied by an air regulator and gauge readout and then slowly turn the regulator down in pressure until the light goes on. If the pressure is low check the relief valve, if OK then remove the oil pump and pressurize the oil galley and see where the larger leaks are or check each main and rod bearing. Also pull the cover off the oil pump and check the gears and pockets for scoring. Gears should only have about .001" of clearance. Also when pressurizing the oil galley watch for oil leakage in the timing cover or another area. I have seen many "rebuilds" where someone forgot to plug or correctly reseal an oil galley. Best of luck to you
  5. The easiest way to check for a battery drain is to take the ground terminal off the battery and connect a test light between the battery post and the terminal. The light should not even glow a barely visible dim red color. To check if you have it connected correctly and that the test light is good open the door or turn something on, the set light will glow brightly. This can even be used on new cars with computers but there are other steps you must follow. If the light is glowing and everything is off disconnect one thing at a time until the bulb goes out. Best of luck
  6. If the brake pedal is hard like the brake is when the engine is not running check for vacuum at the booster by removing the vacuum hose at the booster while the engine is running at idle. Engine should stall immediately due to the large vacuum leak, check that the hose is not soft and sucking shut while the engine is running. If vacuum is not present or only a slight leak look if there is a one way check valve in the vacuum line (some look like an inline filter) , if there is none in the line and the engine stalls when the line is removed check the connector at the booster, it may have a built in check valve. I have seen these go bad and you may get one power assist but if you let off the brake and press it again the pedal is rock hard.
  7. Most auto parts stores have a glass center fuel filter that uses a fine screen to catch debris. The nice thing is you can visibly see if it is dirty and it easily comes apart to clean and put back together. I am using them before the Vacuum tanks and at the lowest point in the line with easy access to inspect. It has not interfered with the operation of any of the vacuum tanks yet for me. They cost about $10 and are 1/8" female pipe threads. They come with plastic fittings but I install brass ones. The filter is maybe .75" diameter and 2" long
  8. Ltc4748

    Vacuum tank woes

    Most auto parts stores have a glass center fuel filter that uses a fine screen to catch debris. The nice thing is you can visibly see if it is dirty and it easily comes apart to clean and put back together. I am using them before the Vacuum tanks and at the lowest point in the line with easy access to inspect. It has not interfered with the operation of any of the vacuum tanks yet for me. They cost about $10 and are 1/8" female pipe threads. They come with plastic fittings but I install brass ones. The filter is maybe .75" diameter and 2" long
  9. While in college during the 70's I remember the course on the braking system. We had theory and literature that spoke about the brakes in detail. When the lining material went from the woven type to the asbestos base and each shoe was no longer anchored on one end, the manufacturers started making the linings different also. There is a Primary shoe (front) and a Secondary shoe(rear) at each wheel . The primary shoe was identified by the word primary marked onto the new lining or it was always the 2 shoes in a set with the shorter lining applied to them. The primary shoe lining material was a slightly different composition than the rear shoe. It was slightly softer or more "grabby" than the Secondary shoe. When the brake was applied both shoes move outward until they contact the rotating drum. The shoes then rotate toward the anchor pin. This action wedges the secondary shoe to the drum. For a more even brake wear and life they changed the asbestos mixture of material and the length on the primary versus the secondary shoes to get the most durability/life in the small space. I still have old lining sets that I keep for my antiques that are marked with ink "primary" and "secondary" in the boxes. Many times through the 70's, 80's and into the 90's I would see both primary shoes on one side of a vehicle or the primary shoe mounted on the rear of the wheel. They were always visibly worn harder than the secondary shoes were.
  10. Hello Greg. I know you have been having issues with your car running correctly for a while. One thing to check that is often overlooked is the ignition coil, specifically the primary side wiring (small low - voltage wiring). If the ground side of the battery is positive polarity then the small wire that comes off the coil going to the distributor/points should be on the side of the coil with a + or something to indicate the polarity. if the battery has been hooked up with a negative ground then the coil primary lead going to the distributor/points must be connected to the - side on the coil. Years ago I hooked one up incorrectly and the engine runs anything but correctly. Changing the ignition timing out of specification makes them run better but not even close to decent. Take a look at the coil polarity and get back to us, Best of luck to you. Larry
  11. I have been using Dielectric grease as an assembly lube for over 20 years with regular DOT 3 fluid or DOT 5 Silicone fluid. I have had no problems with one I did in 1991 a 1948 Chrysler that I used DOT 5 fluid in and which I still own. Larry
  12. Thank you very much Stude17. I saw the 2 small bolts that hold the cover you mention on but I did not remove them. If I can ever help you with something please ask.
  13. Ltc4748

    vacuum leak

    I have seen flash fires over the years when people use a flammable spray to check for vacuum leaks. The only way I check for vacuum leaks is just water in a spray bottle. When you spray an area that has a leak you will hear the slurping sound of the water being drawn into the manifold. If the leaks are big enough to let enough water in to damage an engine they are also large enough to hear the leak and to not allow the engine to have a low idle. Be carful that you don't spray water directly on a hot exhaust manifold or you can suffer a steam burn.
  14. I am helping another hobbyist that removed the leather faced cone clutch from his Stude. To get the drive shaft out of the car he removed the 6 nuts that hold the hub assembly with the spring and thrust bearing to the cone clutch. This would be very difficult to put back together this way. Does anyone remember doing one of these if you must take the differential loose and move it back? About 3/4" is all that we need to get the shaft back in with the clutch assembly installed as a unit. Any thoughts? Thank you in advance
  15. If you do not use neetsfoot oil occasionally the leather will dry out and fly apart, it happened last year to a friend of mines 1918 studebaker. If you apply too much oil depressing the clutch will not squeeze out the excess because the clutch will be released. I read somewhere a product called mothers earth can be used on leather clutches if they are slipping from being oil soaked due to leakage or ???