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Ltc4748

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About Ltc4748

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 10/29/1961

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Harrisburg Pennsylvania
  • Interests:
    Working on all types of vehicles and driving them. There is nothing better than taking a vehicle that has been setting for years and bring it back to life for driving and enjoying with others.

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  1. In search of a water pump kit for a 1927 big six. Any vendors that have kits or components? I checked with Studebaker International and several others, no luck so far. Thanks Larry
  2. An easy way to see if there is a light socket that is not grounded is to connect a test light to the grounded battery terminal. Turn the lights on needed to make the feedback occur. Now touch the test light to the base of the bulb that quits working when you turn both the lights on, does it light the test light? A bad ground connection will make the test light glow steady or flash if the turn signal is flashing. The test light proves the bulb is not grounded by lighting the test light. Next touch the test light to the metal socket the bulb goes in, does it light there? If test light does not l
  3. With all the plugs in the engine take another plug and connect it to the plug wire leaving the extra plug external and crank the engine. Does it spark? If not the mag does not make enough voltage with the slower engine cranking speed to fire the plug. Check the cranking speed with the plugs out and with the plugs in. The engine should turn over at least 125 to 150 RPM's at cranking for the unit to start well. If the cranking speed with no compression is 100 and with the plugs in the compression drops the speed to 70 I would look at why the RPM's are so low and see if it can be improved. The ot
  4. If I remember correctly the vacuum advance on these cars was disconnected when you set the static timing at idle speed. The vacuum supply is manifold vacuum so when you reconnect the vacuum line the distributor advances the timing for the full vacuum advance degrees. When driving the vehicle the vacuum drops as load increases and retards the timing from the full vacuum advance. Mopar must have found that the engines started better hot with timing retarded or another similar benefit came from the retarded base timing.
  5. Ltc4748

    Adhesive

    CoolChem makes a glue that works great for all kinds of repairs for a reasonable cost. I use it on multiple items and have great results. I repair car /truck plastic dashes Toy trains and other things as needed. Be carful when using on plastic , it uses an acetone accelerator to instantly dry the glue so some plastics do not like it. Once the glue dries you can build a strength layer with the material. Best of luck. Larry
  6. I also used a Lovejoy coupling. the only other thing I had to do is to install 3 shims of the same sickness under each mounting bolt because the coupling was about .1" thicker overall. It works great. I run my 27 EW every time I get the chance. No one can tell unless they look for it. enjoy the drive!!
  7. I worked on farm equipment for my last real service job from 2013 thru 2016. The condensers we get now are made in area's that there are no or very poor quality control checks. I have seen several condensers during that time which work for the half but will not generate the field collapse and fire the plug . These were on older equipment which had complete tune ups that went to the field and didn't work more than a hand full or two of times and then they would begin to start hard, no start or run for a short time and shut off then not restart. I would definitely try another condenser if it wer
  8. With the plugs in the engine connect one plug outside like you have been testing it to confirm no spark, If there is spark present I would open the gap of an old spark plug to 3/16" and see if the spark will jump that gap. If it does not jump 3/16" it probably will not fire a cylinder under compression. if it doesn't jump 3/16" double check the points to see if they are shiny clean the whole face of each point. If they look good I would replace the condenser if it has one and retest.
  9. A reply to Matt Harwood. The Vintage Motor Touring Society will gather again starting this spring and in a group of up to 15 or so prewar vehicles we will cruise to a collection, a museum, a hobby or historical society or whatever the tour master chooses then stop for lunch. After lunch we all head home until the next months run. It doesn't get any better than driving an antique car. We avoid highways when possible but will run them when needed. We do the run on a weekday most months to avoid heavy traffic.
  10. I also have used a red or black magic marker, painted both the valve and seat, put the valve in and turned it back and forth about a quarter turn with light pressure. Then removed the valve and looked at the shiny area of contact. Be carful with the lapping compound, any not thoroughly cleaned out will cause excessive wear if it gets into the wrong area.
  11. You state low compression but the rings were intact, the only damage if I understand correctly is the ring land on the piston was broken on this piston. You also have 3 more with no-compression. If the compression was 0 psi on the cylinder that had the broken ring land I would check the valves and seats on that cylinder closely by putting a ring of light oil or diesel around the valves margin when they are fully closed and watch to see if it weeps through the valve and seat. Typically a piston that does not have any broken rings and no scoring will be low compression which still does not run c
  12. You can turn the cable between your fingers and watch which way makes the needle move upward. Then take an old speedometer gear if you have one and chuck it in a drill to run it faster or put the cable in the chuck and tighten the check only enough to hold the cable.
  13. Hello Dennis, yes that is correct for the engine if the timing marks line up with #1 cylinder on TDC and the valves on #1 are both open slightly, known as valve overlap, then the distributor would be installed with the rotor pointing to the #4 plug wire
  14. use a timing light and check the mechanical advance and the vacuum advance separately. The Timing should be set with the vacuum disconnected at the proper idle speed. then hook the vacuum back to the distributor. If the vacuum line comes from manifold vacuum the timing light will show the mark (Timing marks on crankshaft) advanced when the vacuum is connected. If the vacuum comes from a ported location on the carburetor (vacuum line connected above the throttle plate) it will only get advance from vacuum when the throttle is opened. You can substitute manifold vacuum temporarily to check for p
  15. The timing gear marks can be different set points for different manufacturers. Most Manufacturers of 4 cylinder engines haver it designed that when the gear marks line up the valves on cylinder #1 are on overlap at TDC. so at this point if you are putting the distributor in on a 4 cylinder engine you would set the rotor to point to number 4 since this cylinder is on the TDC of the compression / power stroke. Other manufacturers made the engine marks line up when the valves are on overlap on #4 cylinder ( on a 4 cylinder engine) so on this type the rotor on the distributor would be set to point
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