Ltc4748

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About Ltc4748

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 10/29/1961

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Harrisburg Pennsylvania
  • Interests:
    Working on all types of vehicles and driving them. There is nothing better than taking a vehicle that has been setting for years and bring it back to life for driving and enjoying with others.

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  1. I also have used a red or black magic marker, painted both the valve and seat, put the valve in and turned it back and forth about a quarter turn with light pressure. Then removed the valve and looked at the shiny area of contact. Be carful with the lapping compound, any not thoroughly cleaned out will cause excessive wear if it gets into the wrong area.
  2. You state low compression but the rings were intact, the only damage if I understand correctly is the ring land on the piston was broken on this piston. You also have 3 more with no-compression. If the compression was 0 psi on the cylinder that had the broken ring land I would check the valves and seats on that cylinder closely by putting a ring of light oil or diesel around the valves margin when they are fully closed and watch to see if it weeps through the valve and seat. Typically a piston that does not have any broken rings and no scoring will be low compression which still does not run correctly. If the other 3 cylinders pistons show the same damage I would suspect continous detonation in the cylinders from timing being advanced too far or someone was using ether to start/run the engine. if all 4 piston ring lands are broken I would replace all the pistons. If you reuse the pistons be sure to check ring side gap and end gap, both are equally important. Excessive ring side gap can also break the ring lands.
  3. Ltc4748

    Speedometer test

    You can turn the cable between your fingers and watch which way makes the needle move upward. Then take an old speedometer gear if you have one and chuck it in a drill to run it faster or put the cable in the chuck and tighten the check only enough to hold the cable.
  4. Ltc4748

    Timing Engine

    Hello Dennis, yes that is correct for the engine if the timing marks line up with #1 cylinder on TDC and the valves on #1 are both open slightly, known as valve overlap, then the distributor would be installed with the rotor pointing to the #4 plug wire
  5. use a timing light and check the mechanical advance and the vacuum advance separately. The Timing should be set with the vacuum disconnected at the proper idle speed. then hook the vacuum back to the distributor. If the vacuum line comes from manifold vacuum the timing light will show the mark (Timing marks on crankshaft) advanced when the vacuum is connected. If the vacuum comes from a ported location on the carburetor (vacuum line connected above the throttle plate) it will only get advance from vacuum when the throttle is opened. You can substitute manifold vacuum temporarily to check for proper advance with the timing light and if OK put the correct ported vacuum line back in place for operation. To check the centrifugal advance leave the vacuum disconnected and with the timing light raise the engine speed while watching the timing marks. As the speed increases you should see a timing increase if the weight system is working. One of the biggest mistakes people make is to put points into a distributor and set the ignition timing with a timing light without disconnecting the vacuum to the advance diaphragm at the distributor. This has the timing set on the retarded side which will lower power and fuel mileage. I hope this will help you.
  6. Ltc4748

    Timing Engine

    The timing gear marks can be different set points for different manufacturers. Most Manufacturers of 4 cylinder engines haver it designed that when the gear marks line up the valves on cylinder #1 are on overlap at TDC. so at this point if you are putting the distributor in on a 4 cylinder engine you would set the rotor to point to number 4 since this cylinder is on the TDC of the compression / power stroke. Other manufacturers made the engine marks line up when the valves are on overlap on #4 cylinder ( on a 4 cylinder engine) so on this type the rotor on the distributor would be set to point to #1 cylinder when installing it since 1 is on the compression / power stroke.
  7. You can test the fluid by exhaling over the opening of the tester while squeezing and releasing the rubber bulb several times. This way you will see the yellow color the fluid will turn. Then repeat squeezing the bulb several times in fresh air and the fluid will return to blue.
  8. I have seen the sealing area's around the spark plug hole pit from rust. I had a machinist make a cutter that I turn by hand to cut the surface smooth and use new copper gaskets from a hydraulic shop. I test the sealing with a spray bottle of soapy water while the engine is running to see if it still is leaking. I have good luck getting them to seal. On one hole someone popped the starting thread and it left a recess. That one I put a thread insert in so it replaced the sealing area.
  9. To check dash unit disconnect wire on sending unit and keep it away from ground, key on engine off the gauge needle should go to one end of the scale either full or empty. Next with the key still on ground the wire that went to the sending unit, gauge needle should go to the the opposite end of the scale. if the gauge responds correctly the sending unit or tank ground is bad. If gauge does not respond correctly it is either a bad voltage supply, bad wiring or a bad gauge itself.
  10. It is actually a guessing game unless you install a pressure gauge and see what the cold and hot operating pressures are. If the pressures are below around 5 psi hot idle the light will come on. you can check the sender by measuring resistance with 10 psi pressure applied by an air regulator and gauge readout and then slowly turn the regulator down in pressure until the light goes on. If the pressure is low check the relief valve, if OK then remove the oil pump and pressurize the oil galley and see where the larger leaks are or check each main and rod bearing. Also pull the cover off the oil pump and check the gears and pockets for scoring. Gears should only have about .001" of clearance. Also when pressurizing the oil galley watch for oil leakage in the timing cover or another area. I have seen many "rebuilds" where someone forgot to plug or correctly reseal an oil galley. Best of luck to you
  11. The easiest way to check for a battery drain is to take the ground terminal off the battery and connect a test light between the battery post and the terminal. The light should not even glow a barely visible dim red color. To check if you have it connected correctly and that the test light is good open the door or turn something on, the set light will glow brightly. This can even be used on new cars with computers but there are other steps you must follow. If the light is glowing and everything is off disconnect one thing at a time until the bulb goes out. Best of luck
  12. If the brake pedal is hard like the brake is when the engine is not running check for vacuum at the booster by removing the vacuum hose at the booster while the engine is running at idle. Engine should stall immediately due to the large vacuum leak, check that the hose is not soft and sucking shut while the engine is running. If vacuum is not present or only a slight leak look if there is a one way check valve in the vacuum line (some look like an inline filter) , if there is none in the line and the engine stalls when the line is removed check the connector at the booster, it may have a built in check valve. I have seen these go bad and you may get one power assist but if you let off the brake and press it again the pedal is rock hard.
  13. Most auto parts stores have a glass center fuel filter that uses a fine screen to catch debris. The nice thing is you can visibly see if it is dirty and it easily comes apart to clean and put back together. I am using them before the Vacuum tanks and at the lowest point in the line with easy access to inspect. It has not interfered with the operation of any of the vacuum tanks yet for me. They cost about $10 and are 1/8" female pipe threads. They come with plastic fittings but I install brass ones. The filter is maybe .75" diameter and 2" long
  14. Ltc4748

    Vacuum tank woes

    Most auto parts stores have a glass center fuel filter that uses a fine screen to catch debris. The nice thing is you can visibly see if it is dirty and it easily comes apart to clean and put back together. I am using them before the Vacuum tanks and at the lowest point in the line with easy access to inspect. It has not interfered with the operation of any of the vacuum tanks yet for me. They cost about $10 and are 1/8" female pipe threads. They come with plastic fittings but I install brass ones. The filter is maybe .75" diameter and 2" long
  15. While in college during the 70's I remember the course on the braking system. We had theory and literature that spoke about the brakes in detail. When the lining material went from the woven type to the asbestos base and each shoe was no longer anchored on one end, the manufacturers started making the linings different also. There is a Primary shoe (front) and a Secondary shoe(rear) at each wheel . The primary shoe was identified by the word primary marked onto the new lining or it was always the 2 shoes in a set with the shorter lining applied to them. The primary shoe lining material was a slightly different composition than the rear shoe. It was slightly softer or more "grabby" than the Secondary shoe. When the brake was applied both shoes move outward until they contact the rotating drum. The shoes then rotate toward the anchor pin. This action wedges the secondary shoe to the drum. For a more even brake wear and life they changed the asbestos mixture of material and the length on the primary versus the secondary shoes to get the most durability/life in the small space. I still have old lining sets that I keep for my antiques that are marked with ink "primary" and "secondary" in the boxes. Many times through the 70's, 80's and into the 90's I would see both primary shoes on one side of a vehicle or the primary shoe mounted on the rear of the wheel. They were always visibly worn harder than the secondary shoes were.