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Carolina Roadmasters: Taking over where Dad left off - 1930 Buick Series 61


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2 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said:

Got the head off.

IMG_20200404_124659.thumb.jpg.06c37f261381909f2aad87e2f4016416.jpg

 

Next up replace the freeze plug in rear of head and try and get that broken stud out.

You Da Man Brian! Great idea using the lift to pull that head!    Is there another core plug at the back of the block like at the front?  Perhaps it would be easiest to drill a hole in the firewall to install that one?  Would be interested to hear your assessment of the sediment level in the water jacket of the block. 

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No luck on extracting the head bolt with an easy out.

 

Been using PB blaster along with heat and tapping with a hammer but nothing yet.

 

Any tips?

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53 minutes ago, JohnD1956 said:

 

You Da Man Brian! Great idea using the lift to pull that head!    Is there another core plug at the back of the block like at the front?  Perhaps it would be easiest to drill a hole in the firewall to install that one?  Would be interested to hear your assessment of the sediment level in the water jacket of the block. 

 

Oh that's an old truck for me. Used it on the straight 8s too. Works good. A lot less stress.

 

Yes there is a plug back there. It probably is easier to drill a hole in the firewall but I can't bring myself to that. Plan to just yank the motor and drive train forward enough to get to it. Plus I need to out a fresh coat of paint on the block so double need. That said I have considered pulling the top portion of the block which can be separated from the crankcase and thus leaving the crankcase in place. Will see.

 

Block colling chamber is full of crud another reason why I might pull it so it could be boiled.

 

Finally the number 5 cylinder has some rust on the cylinder wall. Honing will take it off I'm fairly certain, but I would have to pull the piston.

 

Gonna read up on pulling the top of the block tonight.

 

 

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1 hour ago, 38Buick 80C said:

No luck on extracting the head bolt with an easy out.

 

Been using PB blaster along with heat and tapping with a hammer but nothing yet.

 

Any tips?

Any pictures of the current status?

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1 hour ago, 38Buick 80C said:

No luck on extracting the head bolt with an easy out.

 

Been using PB blaster along with heat and tapping with a hammer but nothing yet.

 

Any tips?

The only time an easy-out works is if you break it torquing during installation...lucky that the easy-out did not break (I have been cussed out by machine shops for doing that).

I you have some protruding or level with the block, lay a thick washer over the stud and weld the center of the washer to the bolt; then weld a nut to the washer.

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18 minutes ago, 38Buick 80C said:

As requested

IMG_20200404_191512.thumb.jpg.fffe8e4d3379bca8ca122a171524fe86.jpg

 

 

I'm sorry, I'm having PTSD.

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Looks like you've already started drilling it out. Keep doing that, one size larger at a time. Go very slow, use lots of oil, and a low drill speed and reverse drill bits if you have them. Use care not to wipe out the threads in the block. Once you get close, you can start to use a small nail set to chisel the remains of the stud away from the threads, then chase it out with a thread cleaner (not a tap, which will cut into the threads, you just want a chaser that will clean them out).

Hole3.thumb.jpg.6b9bc32543d7468992ceaf535cde108f.jpg  Hole4.thumb.jpg.1c0d8dc7619d02371d793360727226b0.jpg  Hole1.thumb.jpg.9ca9a5697eea39cce7553c60a363e47f.jpg  

 

015-flathead-tech-pliers-taking-out-thread.thumb.jpg.bb5740402c3cd79492d37fb8344fb248.jpg  Bolt14.thumb.jpg.bc685101cee2db1ae93c9d48972b4870.jpg

 

There are 58 head studs in a Lincoln V12. I broke 34 of them. I am VERY good at this now. If you damage the threads, I'll show you how to use Time-Serts to repair them.

 

PS: If it starts to go sideways, walk away and come back another day. I spent almost six months getting those 34 stud stubs out.

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4 minutes ago, Matt Harwood said:

 

 

I'm sorry, I'm having PTSD.

1049786740_2019-03-2417_03_47.thumb.jpg.733fae6d5d0d31faff32356ab6d5b37e.jpg

 

Looks like you've already started drilling it out. Keep doing that, one size larger at a time. Go very slow, use lots of oil, and a low drill speed and reverse drill bits if you have them. Use care not to wipe out the threads in the block. Once you get close, you can start to use a small nail set to chisel the remains of the stud away from the threads, then chase it out with a thread cleaner (not a tap, which will cut into the threads, you just want a chaser that will clean them out).

Hole3.thumb.jpg.6b9bc32543d7468992ceaf535cde108f.jpg  Hole4.thumb.jpg.1c0d8dc7619d02371d793360727226b0.jpg  Hole1.thumb.jpg.9ca9a5697eea39cce7553c60a363e47f.jpg  

 

015-flathead-tech-pliers-taking-out-thread.thumb.jpg.bb5740402c3cd79492d37fb8344fb248.jpg  Bolt14.thumb.jpg.bc685101cee2db1ae93c9d48972b4870.jpg

 

There are 58 head studs in a Lincoln V12. I broke 34 of them. I am VERY good at this now. If you damage the threads, I'll show you how to use Time-Serts to repair them.

 

PS: If it starts to go sideways, walk away and come back another day. I spent almost six months getting those 34 stud stubs out.

 

OMG... no wonder it is the car whose name shall not be spoken...

 

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4 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said:

No luck on extracting the head bolt with an easy out.

 

Been using PB blaster along with heat and tapping with a hammer but nothing yet.

 

Any tips?

Instead of PB Blaster, I recommend a 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF. Since I started pulling my 1938 Century apart, I keep a squirt can full of that on hand. Simply shaking that up and liberally apply it and waiting overnight was how I took all of the hardware on the Century apart after it sat outside for two decades in Massachusetts.  

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Posted (edited)

Im right on the edge of the threads at a 5/16 drill bit size. The next two drill bits up or q and u size which I don't have. U being the tap size drill size. IMG_20200405_102910.thumb.jpg.67ef9d7762347865fe21c7272303301d.jpgGoing to get both plus the thread chaser from Amazon. See what we can do.

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)

Dropped the piston and honed the #5 cylinder to take care of the rust and reinstalled he piston. Had to remove the oil pumps system. Which I'm gonna leave off to not risk damaging it when I pull the motor forward.

 

Also dropped the gas tank and removed the tank cover.

IMG_20200405_134923.thumb.jpg.ed39a0aa80642a16fe2e5cc4c75c35cf.jpg

 

It smells of stale gas which is why I wanted to drop it.

 

 

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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Last thing for today I finally figured out how to get the radiator out of the shell. Wedge itatthe bottom and pull from the bottom.

 

With that out I could take apart the grill thermostatic slats. Dad had them chromed but they should be black and several rusted through from the back side. Whoever did the chrome didn't do much to learn up the back of the slats and manyhad opportunities. Should be ok between the two sets of slats but some will need some welding work prior to paint.

 

IMG_20200405_174207.thumb.jpg.073fae873204bc82ce2273f860cbb599.jpg

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Dad brought over some misc parts he had at his house including the missing rear brake linkage (next weekends project)

 

Gonna place a Bob's order too, to keep progress rolling.

 

Bill Hirsch engine paint shipped too.

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Posted (edited)

I pulled the motor forward. But the rear tires hit the body. I had to pull the rear wheels off.

image000006.thumb.jpg.e12432aa5cfb6e20c266472787fcce3e.jpgimage000001.thumb.jpg.902e0e84028ece0fd4268c38b6cb0c6f.jpg

 

I got the freeze plug out out in the new one in.

 

image000005.thumb.jpg.07bac9e3412583e1b492cba7b9df3489.jpg

 

And then I painted the back of the block and the areas that Would be hard to get to with the motor back in place on the mounts.

 

image000000.thumb.jpg.9ab9595df136679c52a846a2f85a6c61.jpg

 

And had a celebratory cigar ( brickhouse Maduro) .

image000003.thumb.jpg.288111e03b50c25d32f5ee97a34b2e8a.jpg

 

Also been making a brisket in a rack of ribs for a good dinner later.

 

image000004.thumb.jpg.ba128bdcb6863c897b9429a04841942c.jpg

 

I'll add pictures later into this post because I can't do it off my phone.

image000002.thumb.jpg.5b39cb90655bb190c9ef07b02812ae06.jpg

Edited by 38Buick 80C
added photos 548PM (see edit history)
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Larry Schramm suggested I hook a shop vac up and a direct nozzle to the compressor to get the water jackets clear.

IMG_20200412_123510.thumb.jpg.f6b5d2540a3da188738c208574c9ec5a.jpg

Not exactly what Larry described but what I had at my fingertips.

IMG_20200412_123311.thumb.jpg.fda6a786e0df093a67ce76367b80314e.jpg

 

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Here is what ended up in the vacuum.

IMG_20200412_131832.thumb.jpg.68307d5bd1a4359ecc5f60fae2d9f81c.jpg

 

A bunch more flew out the top. Using a pen flashlight it looks pretty good. Will do something similar for the head and then use the evaporust like Matt Harwood once I have it all back together.

 

I plan to have the radiator boiled, leak checked and repainted by a radiator shop too. And I got a water pump rebuild kit from Bob's.

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Brian

Put a longer piece of tubing on the air chuck.  It needs to be at least 18 inches long so it goes all the way down to the bottom of the water jacket.  Poke it down there and scrape it around with the vacuum running and the air going.  You will probably get a lot more out when you start scraping the bottom with the air tube running.

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36 minutes ago, kgreen said:

I'm caught up on your work, nice progress.  Did your dad ever have the car running?

 

Yes it ran, but he never drove it. We'll fix that soon enough and I'll go grab him on the first drive.

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I'm going to try and complete one thing each night after work now that I can put stuff together instead of taking it further apart.

 

I got new leather boots for the upper control arm / brake linkage thing. So I got those back together tonight.

 

IMG_20200413_200416.thumb.jpg.a2073f67f3d743c86f8791654f0fa504.jpg

IMG_20200413_200421.thumb.jpg.47154158cc68477c895da3625531fa86.jpg

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Posted (edited)

I also got my new spark plug wires ready yesterday and today my one thing was rebuilding the fuel pump. The existing diaphragm was pretty good, but it hasn't been used in 25+ years, but not worth messing with.

 

prior to disassembly, new kit parts laid out

image000003.thumb.jpg.b755c87cd28de2fa66d94cbebc825191.jpg

 

During disassembly

image000001.thumb.jpg.0959c0d0091b64cf06342d21d5a575f0.jpg

 

cleaned up peices

image000004.thumb.jpg.29c821baa16ff7858fcd3e470a53f0cc.jpg

 

reassembled

image000000.thumb.jpg.84b40062f19fb10ba3401095f0fba036.jpg

image000002.thumb.jpg.16ff3712f89263b9395c5605d4bb437c.jpg

 

Hopefully will get to do one more thing after dinner and a walk with the family.

 

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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Dad brought some misc sheet metal over including a missing engine splash pan...tomorrows project (plus the one I'm missing on my Model 87).

IMG_20200414_200954.thumb.jpg.377ad72157f3683d234fcf647c37e4b9.jpg

IMG_20200414_200957.thumb.jpg.6f407d6d6832ac67b8c05ec7a71cfc37.jpg

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I'm sorry but you lost me at that post with the pics of the ribs and brisket.  For some reason, I can't concentrate on anything else after seeing those!  😄  I hope it was as delicious as it looks.

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22 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said:

 

image000004.thumb.jpg.29c821baa16ff7858fcd3e470a53f0cc.jpg

 

 

I used to make those rubber diaphragms when I worked at AC Spark plug in the 70's. 

 

Molded them on a hot mold machine and then cut them out on a punch press.

 

It was a good job.  I think I made about 2,000 a night.

Edited by Larry Schramm (see edit history)
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So didn't get to work on anything last night, but I was involved in Buick matters which have been noted in other threads.

 

Tonight we had some Zoom meeting soccer practice and dinner so just paints splash pans and oil pans.  Nothing too sexy but it's progress.

 

Splash pans one for the 30 and one for my 38-87.IMG_20200416_211407.thumb.jpg.b0c685eb4b22a729db0262754402e465.jpgIMG_20200416_211410.thumb.jpg.9d598fc0afbab443930be8f3dbc9fb1b.jpg

 

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Oh I almost forgot, got my thread chaser cleaner today. Think I'm ready to go on that front. Head back in this weekend is the goal. Maybe just maybe engine paint too...

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