Advice / input on buying a late 20's - early 30's car

[Walt G]

Join a club of a particular make you seem to be attracted to visually. Also  join an AACA region or chapter. When you are in the region or chapter there should be members who would not mind giving you a ride around in their cars. This way you get to experience the ride and view out of the car., see how effective the brakes are , and the car as speed. This all should be done to a fairly extensive extent if possible before you buy anything. I agree that you will need a car with enough horsepower and cylinders to move you down the road at a comfortable 50-55 mph if you need to get it that fast to get around a situation on the road or out of the way of someone else. I owned a 4 cylinder 1931 Plymouth model PA sedan for decades - hydraulic brakes so stopped great and was a very peppy car, steered well etc. I do like the 320 cu in straight eight Packard and Buicks,  ,  to take the time and expense to install a after market overdrive is ok, but why? How many cross state or country trips will you need a sustained 50-60 mph? Cadillac V8's pre war are wonderful as well. I am only commenting on cars that I have had some considerable experience with and hours on the road with. Pierce Arrow made a wonderful 8 cyl car and if you want something mechanically "exotic" an air cooled Franklin 6 cyl will keep you going down the road all day long at 55mph and the 1930-33 Airman share the same ignition parts ( cap, rotor etc) with the 1950-54 Chevy. I drove my 1931 Franklin Airman over 40,000 miles.

See if someone won't give you a ride around for a while in something you find attractive and would possibly like to own one just like it. Do not be afraid of a car with a wood framed body, just be sure to check it out to see if it is solid.

[Steve_Mack_CT]

Actually, in thinking about it, op might find an interesting non Ford alternative in that price range, the Caddy, Franklin options or the nice buick coupe elsewhere on the forum could fit the bill.  Great thread!

Edited January 9, 2019 by Steve_Mack_CT (see edit history)

[chistech]

58 minutes ago, Steve_Mack_CT said:

Actually, in thinking about it, op might find an interesting non Ford alternative in that price range, the Caddy, Franklin options or the nice buick coupe elsewhere on the forum could fit the bill.  Great thread!

All three of these brands would have wood framed bodies and the Franklins even used wood on their chassis. Just pointing that out. But again, if the wood is good, it will most likely remain good for todays antique car usage. Because a car has a wood framed body, it shouldn't be disregarded or not recommended as a candidate for the OP's consideration. Hey, Rolls, Pierce Arrow, and Packard used wood longer than GM did and nobody disregards those cars at anytime. I'll take my 32' Olds DCR over any steel framed bodied car in its price and year range any day! Yup, I'm biased!😀

Edited January 9, 2019 by chistech (see edit history)

[chistech]

3 hours ago, tomcarnut said:

I am not an A expert but have lot of friends with them. Others will chime in on what to look for in terms of correctness. The Mitchell Tranny that comes with it could be a nice addition and I believe adds overdrive that pushes the cruising speed up a bit and no double clutching and you could keep up with those 31-32 Chevies at least on flat ground. I have one friend with one and he likes it. I do not know the  cost of a Mitchell but they are not cheap. 

 

Tom Muth

Cincinnati, Ohio

Now, if you were fortunate to purchase a 31-32' chevy that has had it's differential gear set changed to a Larry Jackson 3.5 ratio set even that overdrive A would have a hard time cruising with that Chevy all day long. 

[Walt G]

Christech - yes Franklin used wood in their frames/chassis but by 1929 all chassis were steel thru the end of their manufacture in 1934, The longer wheelbase 1928 Franklin's had a steel chassis.  Just wanted to make sure everyone was aware of that fact. The Franklin club also has excellent technical support as to what parts are available, who fixes what and where etc. The 1932-34 Franklin Olympic series 18 were Reo Flying Clouds with Franklin providing the engine, trans., hubcaps, hood, and shell. The engine the Olympic used was the same as the engine in the larger Airman series but the Olympic was much lighter weight wise.

[C Carl]

5 hours ago, Bloo said:

"And...................................... I can shift a crashbox."

 

 

Hey Brooklyn'  : do you know how to double clutch 'em up and down smoothly ? Or even match revs shift without touching the clutch ? One more STRONG point in favor of the delightful Model A being an entry level car for the automotive period you would like to experience. Blow shifts, grind them cogs, break 2nd gear, no big deal. Easy repair, plenty of parts availability. I let people drive my old Cadillacs, love the view from the back seat ! Some of the guys who are good at shifting the crashboxes  and I put on a smug, superior attitude against synchromesh transmissions. However, the best way to begin learning how to double clutch a crashbox, is on a synchromesh trans. Call it crashbox 101, in which learning the "dance", the coordination of 4 limbs until it becomes routine, is the first step. You want to get to the point where you can double clutch a snap-quick 3-1 downshift as your car loses momentum on a grade.

 

O.K. Now having earned that "Gear Jammer" T-shirt on the Model A, you have really come to love that A. Hanging around and comparing other cars of the era, you have a baseline from which to select the next step. It will be easy to sell the A, quickly if you sell somewhat under market if need be. Consider your ownership to have been an inexpensive, fun learning experience. And, if you are really lucky, that A might have given you an opportunity to twist a wrench from time to time.

 

The larger cars from the late '20s to the early'30s have a very different road feel from the A. Try them out. But you can be sure your first Model A Ford will always hold a special place in your heart.    -   Cadillac Carl 

 

P.S. Lemmee see if I can find a picture of me riding shotgun, or in the back seat of one of my crashbox driver training cars (I have 2 spare transmissions for this one) ..................... Yup. Found a couple. This is "Doc Hawk" out of 'Vegas earning his T-shirt : 

 

 

[ply33]

20 hours ago, Brooklyn Beer said:

. . .  When did mechanical fuel pumps come in? . . .

 

Different manufacturers rolled in "modern" features at different times. For Plymouth specifically and, I think, Chrysler manufactured cars in general:

 

Four wheel hydraulic brakes: All Plymouths from the first in 1928 (Chrysler from 1924).

Full pressure engine lubrication: All Plymouths from the first in 1928

All steel bodies: 1930

Mechanical fuel pump: 1930

Automatic spark advance: 1931

Thin shell replaceable engine crank and main bearings: 1933

Synchronized transmission: 1935 (constant mesh transmissions with sliding dog clutches used earlier, by 1933, but no synchro mechanism).

 

I think GM was the first with synchronized transmissions, maybe 1930 or 32. I am sure someone on this thread will know.

[C Carl]

Synchromesh made its debut in the 1929 Cadillac. Dr. Hawkins and myself developed a cynical sneer to accompany discussion of '29 and later synchro' Cads. Oh, all right. I do confess to a bit of the "sour grapes" syndrome on my part. I have a feeling "Doc Hawk" is straight-up serious, but he will have to speak for himself. Here he is. Ask him.   -  CC 

 

 

[Mark Wetherbee]

9 hours ago, md murray said:

-if you don't mind a closed car how bout that nice honest looking 1930 Cadillac for sale here in AACA forums? obviously upkeep wont be as thrifty as a little ford but what a value!

 

I agree, I was very interested in that car but no matter how I rearranged my garage it just wouldn’t fit In without removing my workbench altogether. It’s a great looking car!

[Brooklyn Beer]

10 hours ago, md murray said:

-if you don't mind a closed car how bout that nice honest looking 1930 Cadillac for sale here in AACA forums? obviously upkeep wont be as thrifty as a little ford but what a value!

Have not seen this.

[Brooklyn Beer]

4 hours ago, C Carl said:

 

Hey Brooklyn'  : do you know how to double clutch 'em up and down smoothly ? Or even match revs shift without touching the clutch ? One more STRONG point in favor of the delightful Model A being an entry level car for the automotive period you would like to experience. Blow shifts, grind them cogs, break 2nd gear, no big deal. Easy repair, plenty of parts availability. I let people drive my old Cadillacs, love the view from the back seat ! Some of the guys who are good at shifting the crashboxes  and I put on a smug, superior attitude against synchromesh transmissions. However, the best way to begin learning how to double clutch a crashbox, is on a synchromesh trans. Call it crashbox 101, in which learning the "dance", the coordination of 4 limbs until it becomes routine, is the first step. You want to get to the point where you can double clutch a snap-quick 3-1 downshift as your car loses momentum on a grade.

 

O.K. Now having earned that "Gear Jammer" T-shirt on the Model A, you have really come to love that A. Hanging around and comparing other cars of the era, you have a baseline from which to select the next step. It will be easy to sell the A, quickly if you sell somewhat under market if need be. Consider your ownership to have been an inexpensive, fun learning experience. And, if you are really lucky, that A might have given you an opportunity to twist a wrench from time to time.

 

The larger cars from the late '20s to the early'30s have a very different road feel from the A. Try them out. But you can be sure your first Model A Ford will always hold a special place in your heart.    -   Cadillac Carl 

 

P.S. Lemmee see if I can find a picture of me riding shotgun, or in the back seat of one of my crashbox driver training cars (I have 2 spare transmissions for this one) ..................... Yup. Found a couple. This is "Doc Hawk" out of 'Vegas earning his T-shirt : 

 

 

My 40 ford ,  1 1/2 ton was double clutch and I used to drive a tank for a living. I can figure out much anything I hope !

[chistech]

7 hours ago, Walt G said:

Christech - yes Franklin used wood in their frames/chassis but by 1929 all chassis were steel thru the end of their manufacture in 1934, The longer wheelbase 1928 Franklin's had a steel chassis.  Just wanted to make sure everyone was aware of that fact. The Franklin club also has excellent technical support as to what parts are available, who fixes what and where etc. The 1932-34 Franklin Olympic series 18 were Reo Flying Clouds with Franklin providing the engine, trans., hubcaps, hood, and shell. The engine the Olympic used was the same as the engine in the larger Airman series but the Olympic was much lighter weight wise.

Walt, Yes, I was aware of the short chassis in 28' being their last but the OP did say late 20's to early 30's cars so a 28' would qualify in my book. I'm really just making a point that a ton of cars in those years had plenty of wood and they are all good cars. There's more than Fords and Budd bodied Dodges to consider. Actually steel was the abnorm, not the norm for those years. Wood always gets a bad rap because of the work to restore one with bad wood and many just can't handle working on them. Once one has been restored, there's literally no issue in most examples. When buying a restored car (wood restored or checked for soundness) there's not much to worry about.

    In the future, on sites like this, the talk will be about how steel is inferior and stay away from any steel bodied cars because polymer and carbon fiber is the way to go. LOL

Edited January 10, 2019 by chistech (see edit history)

[C Carl]

Man Brooklyn , you can teach me a few things. I've got a twin screw custom 1969 Gillig 743D with a Fuller RTO15 that trips me up. My professional friends go up and down that thing using the clutch for getting off the line only. Hat's off to you guys. You will be thrilled to put the miles on your next love, whatever you choose ! Going down the line in ancient cars is about as close to a time machine experience as a person can get, as far as I can tell.  -  CC 

[Brooklyn Beer]

It would be stretching the budget too thin right now and I am supposed to only researching vehicles for the next 2-3 month but I find the color combination on the Dodge amazing.  This is basically what I will be in the market for..  Then i saw the motor swap.  grrrrrrrrrrrrr

 

https://www.allcollectorcars.com/for-sale/1928-Dodge-Victory-Six-/2144517/

Edited January 10, 2019 by Brooklyn Beer (see edit history)

[Brooklyn Beer]

and another with a slightly different color scheme.  This one evidently has correct motor.  

 

https://www.allcollectorcars.com/for-sale/1931-Dodge-Brothers-Sedan-/2260259/

[John_S_in_Penna]

Brooklyn, that outfit that is advertising those cars

is one that has been discussed on this site once before.

I believe that they don't have the cars;  that they aren't

true dealers, but rather just advertisers.  They say they

are legitimate, but people have questioned whether they

advertise others' cars without their permission.  In any

event, those very cars may be advertised elsewhere,

even by the seller himself, for less money.  See this link:

 

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/270303-classic-car-deals-cadillac-michigan/

[Brooklyn Beer]

I just keep searching and looking.  The internet is a fun place.  So can anyone explain to me how a vacuum fuel tank works and the updraft carb?

 

http://www.jimsclassicgarage.com/1930-chrysler-cj6

Edited January 10, 2019 by Brooklyn Beer (see edit history)

[John_S_in_Penna]

8 hours ago, John_S_in_Penna said:

...They say they are legitimate, but people have questioned whether they

advertise others' cars without their permission.  ...

 

That 1931 Dodge sedan you like, for $15,595 from

"Classic Car Deals," is also being currently

advertised by DP9 Motorsports in Long Island, New York

for $13,500.  See link  (their website mistakenly labels it

as a pick-up truck).  The pictures are the same:

 

http://www.dp9motorsports.com/detail-1931-dodge-d100_pickup-used-18293634.html

 

Now, if one dealer has the car for sale, why would he

have another dealer halfway across the country "help" him

sell it by advertising it for him?  This leads one to the discussion

where people think that "Classic Car Deals" is questionable.

Edited January 10, 2019 by John_S_in_Penna (see edit history)

[Brooklyn Beer]

That is crazy.  I totally agree.  Wonder if DP9 is actually the original dealer as well !  at 13500 I would have it looked at but not knowing who has it or where it is, even who is the legit dealer, how can you get the car inspected ???  

[John_S_in_Penna]

There are certainly some fine and hobby-enthusiast

dealers, but I appreciate buying cars directly from a sincere

and knowledgeable owner.  The owner may have had the car for

20 years, knows what has been done to it, may show you its

quirks and how to operate it, and should take pride that it's going to

a new home and an enthusiastic new owner.

 

In one interview, collector Jay Leno stated that he judged

the owner as much as the car, and liked to buy from an owner

who actually worked on the car himself.  Good advice!

Edited January 10, 2019 by John_S_in_Penna (see edit history)

[Bloo]

7 hours ago, Brooklyn Beer said:

So can anyone explain to me how a vacuum fuel tank works and the updraft carb?

 

In the earliest cars there were typically no fuel pumps. The gas would have to gravity feed from the tank, and so the goal was to get the carb as low as possible. They could have designed downdraft carbs, they just didn't.

 

Updraft carbs have some peculiarities, like the fact that any excess gas usually runs out on the ground instead of into the engine, and the fact that there isn't much hope of getting fuel up into the engine if the gas is too cold to vaporize. Other than that, the theory and operation of an updraft carb is exactly the same as a downdraft carb.

 

In early cars the gas tank was usually under the seat or something like that, and it was possible to not have enough downward angle to keep the carb supplied with gas on a steep hill, and in those days there were some really steep hills on the main roads in some areas. Occasionally a motorist might have to back up a long steep hill (with switchbacks!) to keep the car from running out of gas partway up.

 

The next step was to put the gas tank up in the cowl right under the windshield. This works better because there is a steeper drop between the tank and the carb. It limits the fuel capacity because there is only so much room up there in the cowl. Also, not everyone wants to drive around with a gas tank almost in their lap.

 

What followed that was vacuum tanks. They use engine vacuum and keep sucking gas up into a tiny tank up high on the firewall. Now the main fuel tank can be located anywhere. The gas gravity feeds from the tiny tank to the updraft carb (just like it did when the main fuel tank was in the cowl).

Edited January 10, 2019 by Bloo (see edit history)

[Rusty_OToole]

Vacuum tank uses 2 chambers and a couple of valves. When it is empty engine vacuum is applied to the upper chamber which is connected to the gas tank by a fuel line. The vacuum sucks gas into the chamber. When it is full a float valve shuts off the engine vacuum and opens a valve in the bottom. This allows the fuel to fall into the bottom chamber. From there it flows to the carburetor.

 

With the upper chamber empty the vacuum valve opens and it sucks gas again. There is also a float to prevent the bottom chamber from being filled too full.

 

There is a plug in the top that can be opened to pour gas in by hand, to get things started. This is handy if the vacuum tank stops working as you can keep filling it by hand and driving a few miles at a time.

 

On a long hard uphill pull you can run out of gas, as the engine is producing so little vacuum it can't suck the gas uphill from the fuel tank. When the vacuum tank runs dry you run out of gas. The cure is to pull over and let the engine idle for a minute to refill the vacuum tank.

 

On the whole they worked well and were pretty reliable and trouble free, and not hard to fix if they went on the fritz. But new designs of fuel pumps were better and cheaper.

 

Something else, carburetors made for vacuum tanks had bigger needle valves and were made for very low pressure, like 1 pound because they were fed by gravity. Carbs made for fuel pumps had to have smaller stronger needle valves.

[Grimy]

What Spinney said...no "piston."  Very reliable but must be thoroughly cleaned every 20 years or so--ask me how I know.

[Steve_Mack_CT]

Beer, Dragone boys out of Bridgeport have a nice 30 A phaeton available, I think $24k.  Might be worth a peek.

[Mark Wetherbee]

Here’s the link to the 30 Cadillac you missed:

 

 

I think it’s one of those that will be on my mind for years to come.

[Steve_Mack_CT]

+1 on that caddy.  Agree with Mark that seemed like a lot of car for the money!

[Brooklyn Beer]

So mechanically,  what would differ on a caddy from this era say from a dodge brothers?  Is it a more complicated car ? One off features , etc?

[Steve_Mack_CT]

I think, and others can chime in with more knowledge, the big boys from that era differ from higher production volume, lower end cars more significantly than the postwar period or even late 30s.  It seems more components were shared as the 30s went on.  Consolidation in the auto industry itself is also a factor. On the plus side, Big wheelbase, more hp can make for more comfort and smooth power on big cars but they tend to have more complex mechanicals.  It has been said (I believe by knowledgeable poster Ed Minnie, who I would call an expert on many of the bigger cars) the avg. Classic from that period has 5,000 more parts overall than say a Ford A.  So, it stands to reason the $27k Caddy is a little more challenging to maintain than a sorted, tour ready A at the top of the range.  For this reason, if we move up as much as I would love a Classic, i personally might look at early v8 Fords in coupe or open bodys. Newer than your target era but maybe something to consider if you were to go to say, 1935.

 

Edited January 10, 2019 by Steve_Mack_CT (see edit history)

[Steve_Mack_CT]

One thought on this is advice i have been given when contemplating a couple of CCCA cars needing work.  Are you looking to tinker, sort, restore, or maintain, or drive and wax mainly?  That jolt of reality has kept me from buying say, a Classic for 20k needing 10, 15k in servicing to enjoy vs. A cheaper car with more predictable service costs.  But closed CCCA cars, and non Classic indepenents can be great cars for the right buyer.  

[SC38dls]

No matter what car you buy or see on the internet DO NOT PURCHASE IT SIGHT UNSEEN!  Spend the dollars to go see the car for yourself.  I went back and forth on a Jag MK X in Washington state over a two month period. Numerous phone conversations and hundreds of pictures later my wife and I got on a plane form Lexington and made the trip to Seattle (my excuse was she could see the many gardens in the area as a vacation) a side trip to the car and we found it was sunk in the mud, interior shot &arusted non-running hulk.  The pics were 20+ years old and the conversations were bull!  A second Mk X & trip to New Jesrey was basically the same result. I finally found the Studebaker a short day trip away that was exactly as the seller said it was.  So there are honest seller out there but it's your responsibility to be sure they are. Don't trust anyone until you verify it yourself. It will save you dollars and agony in the long run. 

Have fun.

Dave S

 

ps - I know I am not the only one that this has happened too, it is all far to common.  

Edited January 10, 2019 by SC38DLS (see edit history)

[John_S_in_Penna]

3 hours ago, Brooklyn Beer said:

So mechanically,  what would differ on a caddy from this era say from a dodge brothers?  Is it a more complicated car ? One off features , etc?

 

I'm not an expert on high-end cars of this era, but others are.

"Edinmass" is a full-time collection manager and is very knowledgeable.

I hope he sees your question and can contribute here.

From what others have written (and a bit from my own experience too),

high-end cars can sometimes require tens of thousands of dollars to

get operating properly, even when a car looks beautiful outwardly.

 

Speaking of good-looking high-end cars, Ed has written (see thread below):

 

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/318980-1920s-cadillacs/?tab=comments#comment-1812980

 

"I think the true numbers of cars "sorted" and operating as they were

when new is less than three percent. Maybe 10 percent are adequate

to operate as intended with only a very few minor issues."

 

"The Cadillacs can be and are a handful.  Being a purist I won’t run a Caddy

on an electric pump, but I sure understand why people do it. I have a 16 right now

that runs perfect in the cool weather--when it gets over 85 though you

may as well bring a tow truck when you go for a ride... Never, Never, Never

buy a car without getting expert help, it’s the best return on investment you will

EVER spend on a purchase. I have been noticing that in today’s modern world

with instant gratification in most areas, people just don’t have the patience

to get the cars sorted...." 

 

 

Edited January 10, 2019 by John_S_in_Penna (see edit history)

[Steve_Mack_CT]

John, exactly what I was looking for from Ed.  Not to discourage a Classic, but to use knowledge of the group.  He may be a good person to talk to about helping find a car that fits the bill ss well.

 

 

 

[chistech]

It looks like I might have a 31’ Caddy coming in for some work so I had a couple short messages with Ed about it. He did mention some finicky things and said to contact him if I did end up getting the car. By what I’ve read, heard from Ed, and others, I don’t think the caddy would be a good entry into the 20s-30’s era for the OP. The average everyday man’s car sold back then would fit the bill better, no matter what the make is. Just my opinion.

[Brooklyn Beer]

Yes. Sounds like getting my feet wet on something that could be less frustrating to start out with.  Plan to do some in depth reading on a 30 to 32 dodge

[maok]

Have you looked into series 70's (years 1928-30) Chrylsers? 

[chistech]

I might have a line on a 30 dodge for a very reasonable price. A friend had it and it didn’t need much. Interior was redone and perfect but not sure if absolutely show correct but it is period correct. Paint was decent other than the hood needed a repaint. Hadn’t run in a while and needed the typical things like brakes and vacuum fuel pump work to get it on the road .

[C Carl]

8 hours ago, Brooklyn Beer said:

So mechanically,  what would differ on a caddy from this era say from a dodge brothers?  Is it a more complicated car ? One off features , etc?

 

Massively different. They are fundamentally rugged cars, well engineered, well made, with no flaws. More complicated certainly. For a beginner it would be IMPERATIVE to purchase a well-sorted, turn key example. They will delight you along the learning curve, and frustrate you on the hot days. The carburetor and intake were designed for fuel much different from today. The complexities engineered for that fuel, require compensating surgery to drop the intake temperature as much as possible. The easiest Cadillacs to thusly modify are the Model 314, 1926 being the more rugged than the '27. The very toughest were the V63 models, 1924-'25. Also fairly easy to modify. I will show a picture of my '24. It is an open car, out of your price range. A closed V63 could be in your price range. BUT : They do not come up for sale every couple or five years. I got very lucky, in that my '24 came up after only 3 years of energetic hunting. 30 years ago an ad in Hemmings sent me across the country to check it out. I have never seen such a good deal on a V63 before or since. An important factor in making it such a good deal, was that the price was about 25-30% over what I had budgeted. Often the extra bucks really pay off. The old Cad was a well maintained, well running, rock solid car, suitable as a parade, or local cruising car. I put the purchase price again into it to make it trans-continental capable. My '27 sedan took 20+ years to find. Original, unrestored cars.

 

This is general info to help with your search. You may have a dream car, but finding it may take time. Murphy knows how to find it more quickly. He buys something else in the meantime. That is why the A, being easy in, easy out, let's you turn on that dime if need be. The right Chrysler product could work out well for you, with good forum support. Buick is another excellent choice. 

 

The hunt itself is great fun for most of us. I am past the point in life where I can be acquiring anything. It is fun for me to follow along on others hunts. Part of the decision process ideally involves a love-at-first-sight reaction. Get expert help when smitten, or you could end up with a broken heart, and a broken bank account.

 

I just checked, and see that you have joined us fairly recently. It is possible that you don't know my two old Cads. I will include a boring picture of my '27 along with the other I promised. Apologies to all who have seen these before.   -   CC  

 

 

[Brooklyn Beer]

anyone know what club this came from ?  And is there a good resource book for pre 1933 Dodge cars?

 

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/dodge/dodge-brothers/2104705.html

Edited January 11, 2019 by Brooklyn Beer (see edit history)

[theKiwi]

I was in this situation in 2016 - I had been thinking about getting a car - pre 1933 - for a year or two, and looked at Hemmings and Ebay and some other sites every day for many months to get an idea of what was around and what it might cost.

 

Following advice, I think from this board, or maybe one of the Facebook groups, I headed off to Hershey Fall Swap Meet in October 2016 with a budget and a determination to buy "not a Model A or a Model T" - there are just too many of them around and I wanted something a bit out of the ordinary.

 

The car that caught my eye as soon as I saw it, and survived me looking at other cars the rest of that day was a 1926 Franklin Sedan, so I bought that at the start of the 2nd day of Hershey 2016.

 

I joined the AACA there on the grounds, and joined the H H Franklin Club a few days after I got back home. The club has incredible people, and incredible resources - e.g. most of the factory drawings for cars and parts from 1902 through to 1934 are in the club's possession, and available on the club's website for members to use.

 

My only regret about buying at Hershey was the inability to take a test drive in the car.

 

 

The picture is me with the car after I'd signed for it and made the money transfer.

 

Roger

 

 

[Brooklyn Beer]

The Franklin is one beautiful car and I love the idea of being different. The reason i like showing up with 9 tons of chrome on the grill of my 49 Roadmaster. I used to be a regular at Fall Carlisle and Mopars at Carlisle for many , many years and then I rejoined the military (gulf 1) which put an end to it.  Wish I had the opportunity to make that trip again but TX is just a little to far away.  When comes time to buy I will have rely on an inspector or if possible a member who could live nearby.  As much as I would like to travel and check out the car myself, it won't be possible unless I can make the drive in a reasonable turn around