theKiwi

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About theKiwi

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 02/01/1955

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
     Caledonia, Michigan, USA
  • Interests:
    Interested in Olde Cars and Olde People (Genealogy)

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  1. My 1926 Franklin has an "authentic" plate on it - Authentic being one of the categories available in Michigan to register a car under. It cost $35 to register the car with a plate from the car's year of manufacture - that registration lasts as long as I own the car for that $35. (I've since had the plates refinished by Bill Scholten here in West Michigan so they're as shiny as the car is now). The restrictions are To qualify for an authentic license plate, the vehicle must be: 26 or more years old Owned solely as a collector's item A vehicle registered with a regular historic plate or authentic historic plate cannot be used for general transportation. The vehicle can only used for participating in historical club activities, exhibitions, tours, parades, car shows, swap meets, and similar uses. Those conditions are easy enough to meet. Roger
  2. Here's a link to the listing showing the car http://www.franklincar.org/forsale/index.html#carsforsale Roger
  3. As Walt notes, the Olympics are excluded from CCCA Full Classic® status, as well as currently all Franklins pre 1925 are on a "please apply" status... https://www.classiccarclub.org/grand_classics/approved_classics_2018.html Roger
  4. Welcome John I bought a Series 11A Sedan a bit over 2 years ago (2016 Hershey Fall Meet) and am hoping to make it The Trek at Cazenovia for the first time this year - stumbling block is I don't have a trailer, and if I did, I have nothing to pull it with, so I'm still pondering the practicality and reality of driving it the 653 miles each way at 40-45 mph. Maybe I'll drive our modern car across and scrounge a ride from you ;-) Roger
  5. Yes, that is the situation in my car - it has been reupholstered "recently" before I bought it, so all new fabric right through it. Roger
  6. Thanks Paul When it warms up a wee bit, and my strained/sprained shoulder settles down a bit I'll go take a closer look for the missing screw holes. The "thing" that covers my hinge is I'm sure new. I'm not sure exactly what it is, but its' not very thick, and is smooth. I think as a first attempt (well actually it will be the 3rd or 4th) I'll run a bead of black silicone across the gap between that plastic and the window frame, and the plastic and the car frame, and try and seal up the ends with black RTV too. I haven't seen any scraps as you describe used anywhere else in the car - one thing I did notice was that along some of the gaps in the floorboards there are strips of a linoleum type substance tacked over - eg where the wire for the rear dome light runs. It seems similar to the chunk of a reddish coloured linoleum type substance that was in the bottom of the tool compartment under the driver's seat. Thanks Roger
  7. @PFitz - Paul - thanks for that photo - so my 11A Sedan is not at all like that - there is no overhang of the roof above the window. so the visor must have been fitted on that area above the window - about 2" or a wee bit more high?! And the plastic? seal that is around the hinge is not as you described and showed - it's cut flush at the end of the hinge, and that area of the front of the car somewhere has leaked a number of times in the rain - both when the car is standing still and it's really raining, and when driving it in the rain, but not hard rain. I've put window sealer along the top of the frame part that is in the car, and down the side as you can see in that image. I'll see if I can work some into the ends of that to block it off - I'm not excited about trying to remove the window to put a new seal across there. The car must at some stage have had a visor as the screws that hold the support brackets to the pillar are screwed into the pillar on both sides, but no sign of any screw holes above the window - presumably filled when the car was painted. I have a visor off an 11A Sport Sedan that is in very rough shape, but the metal frame is intact and the two support arms are there, albeit one is missing the wing nut that locks it in place. Do you know of anyone skilled in rebuilding a visor? Anyone reading this that has a spare one of those wing nuts? Thanks Roger
  8. Well there are more P-51 Mustangs around than there are V12 Franklins... Roger
  9. I usually do - I'm a volunteer down there, as well as representing the Franklin Club at the Museum's Advisory Committee meetings, so I'm down there usually a couple of times a month at least during Winter and more often in the Summer. Roger
  10. The small vertical space above the window I would expect - that's where the ones I've seen are fitted to. As I said my car doesn't have a visor on it, and whoever did the bodywork covered over all the screw holes that would have been left behind (but I do have the screw holes and screws for where the supporting arms fasten to the pillars). I'll be at the Gilmore Car Museum a week from today and can take a look at the yellow boattail car that's there. Roger
  11. It looks like the visor part number 32954 has a flap of material that is above the edge of the frame and then a strip of metal ½" wide (part 32952) goes on top of that to fasten it above the window. My car is currently missing its visor, but I do have a badly worn out one that I need to get refurbished and then fitted to the car . Roger
  12. theKiwi

    Model 10C Exhaust

    I've quickly explored the idea - one problem is that electrical conduit sizing isn't the same as exhaust tubing. Exhaust tubing is 2" OD, but electrical conduit is actually larger than 2" OD - more like 2.2 or even over 2.3", so the dies and rollers in a conduit bender won't be exactly the right size to keep exhaust tubing round as it's being bent. The other thing I have wondered about is if this tubing roller from Harbor Freight could actually do it https://www.harborfreight.com/tubing-roller-99736.html It supposedly comes with dies/rollers to handle 2" tubing, but I'm not sure just how well it can do the job - there are videos on YouTube of people using them with seemingly decent results. Roger
  13. What is "that all" that you're asking about? Do you have some photos of what you've got you can post? Roger
  14. That is an incredible resource, and I sometimes wonder what other clubs have similar available. I have downloaded hundreds of them in self answering questions about my Series 11A, and have sent a few of them away to have new parts made too. And it's very cool to be down in the basement at the Gilmore Car Museum and see the wooden cabinets they're kept in, and open a drawer and see the original 90+ year old drawings. Roger
  15. When I overhauled my Series 11A gearbox I used 85/140 in it at first, and then replaced that with someone's recommendation of the 600W that you buy from Schneiders - that made shifting quite difficult when cold, so one of the jobs for me is to drain that out and put the 85/140 back in to it. Although draining it out on a day like today in Michigan where it's barely 20°F isn't likely to happen. Roger