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About theKiwi

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 02/01/1955

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
     Caledonia, Michigan, USA
  • Interests:
    Interested in Olde Cars and Olde People (Genealogy)

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  1. I got the eyelets from some knife maker supply shop, and forget where I got the roll of eyelets - maybe from DigiKey. The one in the photo is my first attempt - I got better on subsequent attempts. And you can notice the new tan with red tracer wire from Rhode Island Wiring. The tan and red threads are wrapped around a white plastic insulation (you can glimpse it at the end of the insulation. Roger
  2. It was tinned copper I guess - pretty sure it was copper conductors. I spent ages trying to source connectors like that - they were actually made by a shoe company, who I guess had experience making the eyelets for shoes. I ended up with this for the new ones I needed, and reused several of he original ones after I had carefully removed the olde wire from them. Roger
  3. Cazenovia, New York from July 27th through August 3rd. Roger
  4. I'm looking forward to coming to my first one this year - assuming I think my car can make the 650 mile trip each way under its own power - I don't have a trailer for it, and if I did I don't have a vehicle to pull the trailer with a car on it. Roger
  5. is the address to use Roger
  6. My 1926 Franklin has a fuse box on each side of the engine compartment, with 6 (I think - maybe 5) fuses in it protecting the light circuits, ignition, horn. They take the common glass fuses that are still available today. I have "fixed" some of my wiring, but mostly it is still the original. What I "fixed" was where the previous owner had used modern plastic wiring and bright coloured crimp connectors to put in an electric fuel pump, a non standard brake light switch, and new wires to the coil. I bought the appropriately coloured wire from Rhode Island Wiring to tidy this all up - Rhode Island Wiring sell modern plastic coated wire that is wrapped in the original coloured cotton threads so it looks original, and have it in all the different colours needed. And I removed the electric fuel pump and put back the original vacuum tank which I luckily got with the car. I paid a guy in Ohio to recondition it for me before putting it back on the car. See this post on my blog where I sorted out all the wiring specifications into a table for future reference Roger
  7. This link should turn up the Franklin stuff first and then the other stuff below it Roger
  8. theKiwi

    Olympic conv on the bay

    Here's the link to it Roger
  9. The one I saw was on the John Strawway/Mark Chaplin yellow 2 door Sport something or other (sorry forget exactly what that yellow car is called) 11A or B when they had it in Michigan for the 2017 Midwest Meet/Air Cooled Meet. I've also seen the drawings for the Franklin dreamed up fix for this (meaning they recognised it as a problem while the cars were still young) of wire cables stretched and tensioned really tight - anchored to each end of the frame rail and then held off the frame rail by a standoff at the point under the rear engine mount. It is unknown if any of these were ever fitted, and if so just how effective they might have been - but Franklin clearly thought about it when this drawing was done in 1929. Roger
  10. I have seen one car with exactly that - a long single leaf spring under each chassis rail that is made such that upward pressure is exerted on the bottom of the wooden frame rail presumably in the area of the rear engine mounts. I don't have the exact dimensions, but it was something like 2" wide, maybe ¼" or ⅜" thick. It was fastened at each end - up near the front of the rail and down the back in front of the rear axle. It's something I vaguely think about for my 11A which is suffering the dreaded sag - the hardest part I'm sure is figuring out just how strong the spring needs to be - i.e. how much upwards pressure it exerts in that area right by the rear engine mounts when it's strapped up under the chassis rails. Roger
  11. There is a crankshaft driven squirrel type fan at the front of the engine, that as a previous poster notes draws air down around the cylinders in most of them up to 1930 or so, and then after that blows air across the cylinders. Even at idle it is moving quite a bit of air. Unlike a Volkswagen say, where the fan is driven by belt, these fans are turning as long as the engine itself is turning. Roger
  12. I don't have direct knowledge of this, but I believe one of the things that Franklin did to advertise their air cooling was to leave one running for days in Death Valley. Roger
  13. I was in this situation in 2016 - I had been thinking about getting a car - pre 1933 - for a year or two, and looked at Hemmings and Ebay and some other sites every day for many months to get an idea of what was around and what it might cost. Following advice, I think from this board, or maybe one of the Facebook groups, I headed off to Hershey Fall Swap Meet in October 2016 with a budget and a determination to buy "not a Model A or a Model T" - there are just too many of them around and I wanted something a bit out of the ordinary. The car that caught my eye as soon as I saw it, and survived me looking at other cars the rest of that day was a 1926 Franklin Sedan, so I bought that at the start of the 2nd day of Hershey 2016. I joined the AACA there on the grounds, and joined the H H Franklin Club a few days after I got back home. The club has incredible people, and incredible resources - e.g. most of the factory drawings for cars and parts from 1902 through to 1934 are in the club's possession, and available on the club's website for members to use. My only regret about buying at Hershey was the inability to take a test drive in the car. The picture is me with the car after I'd signed for it and made the money transfer. Roger
  14. theKiwi

    Model 10C Exhaust

    Thanks Steve - I'm still pondering on what to do. Maybe I'll try André's "how to bend a pipe by filling it with sand and then heating it" method. Roger
  15. theKiwi

    Model 10C Exhaust

    Do you have any pictures of the pipes before you put it on? I'm curious about how well they make the bends - i.e. how much are they compressed/squished as you get from push bending? I'm in need of front and rear pipes for my 11A, and the 10C at the Franklin museum also needs a front pipe and muffler. Roger