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About theKiwi

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 02/01/1955

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
     Caledonia, Michigan, USA
  • Interests:
    Interested in Olde Cars and Olde People (Genealogy)

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  1. Mine came to zip code 49316 on 28 May Roger
  2. theKiwi

    oe-1 carb part

    If it's not the screw @PFitz mentions, then this guy will have it. He also sells viton tipped needles which don't leak, new seats, and other parts Roger
  3. Is it complete with the brake and clutch pedals, cross shaft and clutch release fork on it?
  4. Thanks for the links to Jerry Greer's Engineering. I've saved them just in case I ever need any more than the 2 spares I currently have. Roger
  5. If you have a spare bracket, I'd be interested in at least the wing nut off it, or the whole bracket - I have two brackets, but am missing one of the wing nuts that lock the sliding parts together to adjust the visor angle. This part here Roger
  6. Kirk Arnold - you can find him on the Franklin Automobilie Enthusiasts Facebook page - has recently fitted up some cables with turnbuckles onto a badly sagged car. I'm partway through a process to put some "upside down" leaf springs under the frame of my 1926 Series 11A car. I know of one other car that has had this done and it worked out very well, so I have got the dimensions of the springs he had made, and am having a spring shop here in Grand Rapids, Michigan make me a pair of springs - the basic idea is to put a leaf spring under the chassis rail from just behind the front spring, back to about the end of the gearbox - when both ends are pushed up and fastened to the frame rails (sill plates) the centre of the spring will be pushing up on the frame rail hopefully enough to get them back into shape. As noted above, the most obvious problem of the sagging frame is that there is a gap at the bottom of the hood corners, but less obvious is the line of the cowl along the hood is "broken" - the sag shows up there, as well as on my car at least we are very very close to having the rear end of the engine air cover rubbing on the cowl. If the spring process works I'll publish pictures and text of what I did so others might do the same also if interested - to me this makes more engineering sense than a cable under the car, pulled unbelievably tight, fastened to the frame rails by bolts drilled through wood that are pulling along the grain - there is so little mechanical advantage in the cable system that the cables must by unbelievably tight to have any effect I think. The springs idea seems simpler, and has been proven to work on one car so far - mine will be #2 Roger
  7. Yes, I found that one - it's a castle nut and not sure what it's made from. Also this one made of aluminium, and much thinner than the original is. Roger
  8. Thanks for the links to Ebay - I've bought the tapered tap from the guy - should arrive Monday. Then I'll be able to figure out the next step. (I doubt it will be to rethread a 12 threads per inch nut though) The fan is away having its rubber disks replaced, so I won't see it probably for a couple of weeks to put things back together. Roger
  9. If I don't find a better one, I just plan to reuse this one, pretty much as is - I don't want to do anything to it that might damage the threads in any way so it would no longer thread on. The long "snout" (the crank handle part) that goes on after this mangled nut has much more length of the threads to engage, and so can be tightened up pretty well after the nut has been tightened. I might try and file down the worst of the lumps on it to get it to better fit a 6 sided socket that I have. Roger
  10. Thanks Mike - yes, I found that one at McMaster Carr. And a couple of other places too. This is the one I'd like to replace - it has been severely abused in a former life by someone too lazy to find or buy a socket (1⅞") to fit it. Neither the "snout" or the nut were very tight - the snout came off with almost no effort and the nut with very little effort with a 2" socket on it.
  11. Anyone have any ideas on where I might be able to buy a thin hex jam nut - thread size 1¼" x 16 threads per inch. The "normal" fine thread nut this size is 12 threads per inch - as you can see below this is labelled as USSF - presumably US Super Fine? It's for the fan retaining nut on a 1926 Franklin engine. This is the Franklin engineering drawing for the nut Thanks Roger
  12. Here's the auction Bonus - comes with brand new frame rails ;-) Roger
  13. My 1926 Franklin has an "authentic" plate on it - Authentic being one of the categories available in Michigan to register a car under. It cost $35 to register the car with a plate from the car's year of manufacture - that registration lasts as long as I own the car for that $35. (I've since had the plates refinished by Bill Scholten here in West Michigan so they're as shiny as the car is now). The restrictions are To qualify for an authentic license plate, the vehicle must be: 26 or more years old Owned solely as a collector's item A vehicle registered with a regular historic plate or authentic historic plate cannot be used for general transportation. The vehicle can only used for participating in historical club activities, exhibitions, tours, parades, car shows, swap meets, and similar uses. Those conditions are easy enough to meet. Roger
  14. Here's a link to the listing showing the car Roger
  15. As Walt notes, the Olympics are excluded from CCCA Full Classic® status, as well as currently all Franklins pre 1925 are on a "please apply" status... Roger