DB26

Just Dropped The Oil Pan on My ‘26. Have some questions (With Pictures)

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Hello everyone, Merry belated Christmas and Happy Early New Year. Tonight I took the advice of many on here and finally dropped the pan in my 1926 Dodge in order to clean out the sludge and get a baseline on engine health. I have to say, she looks pretty clean in the crankcase, but the pan has a good amount of sludge along with hard, brittle bits of I’m-not-sure-what. My main question so far is about the baffle in the oil pan. It appears to be welded in. Is that typical? And if so, I assume it’s going to be difficult to clean out. That is my project for tomorrow. (12/27)  I’m thinking of maybe trying to take it to get boiled out or something. Let me know your thoughts.

 

Oh and I forgot to add, another reason I dropped the pan was to fix the leaky oil float. It’s completely filled with oil, so if anyone has some good advice on how to repair that I would appreciate it. 

 

Here are the photos I have taken:

 

 

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Edited by DB26 (see edit history)

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The baffle is soldered in. The pan is also galvanized. Do not hot tank it. Just wash it out good with parts washer or gas ( I didn't say that). Scrub around in it until clean. It will come clean.

Your float must be cracked. Probably best to find another one. Try Myersearlydodge.com or Romars. You may be able to use hot water and ice water to push the oil out of the float, then solder it up. You will have to research which to use 1st, the hot water or the ice water but the temp differential causes gas or oil the be expelled. I have watched it done but forgot which comes 1st. I'm thinking ice water, then hot water but not sure.

Good luck,

 

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There is a layer of dirt inside the crankcase too, and probably inside other places as well.

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Thanks everyone. The speedometer reads 18,000 miles but I don’t think it’s accurate as the speedo gear is stripped out. After that’s it’s anyone’s guess. I wasn’t planning on doing a bottom rebuild. Just a clean and reassembly. 

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Hi, the sump baffle can be removed if you are good at riveting and soldering.  I started cleaning mine out with a few goes at degreasing, scrubbing and power washing.  Then decided I wanted to get it re galvanised so removed the baffle and there was still a decent layer of sludge below the baffle.  

It wasn’t that hard to refit the baffle, just 4 rivets on each side and then solder over the heads of the rivets to seal them.

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Thanks. I ended up leaving it. Haven’t Honed the riveting and solderings skills yet. And all I have is a electrical soldering iron. Anyway, just got it cleaned out. I did the gasoline method AND finished off with oven cleaner. Seems like I got most of it out. Enough to make me happy. Finish was junky looking so I wire wheeled it and gave it a coat of black high heat paint. Somewhere down the road it’ll all come back out for a proper restoration. And correct colors. 

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Took me a few hours of power washing to get all the muck out from under the baffles in my 28. High flow high pressure industrial power washer. Solvent tank wouldn't touch it. The stuff was like clay. 

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15 minutes ago, David_Leech said:

Took me a few hours of power washing to get all the muck out from under the baffles in my 28. High flow high pressure industrial power washer. Solvent tank wouldn't touch it. The stuff was like clay. 

I guess I lucked out. Once I put the gas in it the stuff turned to soup. 

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Okay, I’ve run into a bit of a problem. I have everything installed and did my first test run today. I’ve got a pretty sizable leak at the rear flywheel housing. I haven’t taken the flywheel cover back off yet, but there’s a good steady steam coming from the weep hole below the flywheel. I thought I did my felts correctly but I’ll explain to you how I did them. The smaller shorter felt was placed on the bearing cap and held there with some gasket sealant. The larger longer felt was placed in the oil pan trough and cut to length. Bringing the top of the felts to the same level as the new oil pan gasket. What could I have done wrong? 

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Could well be the sump gasket around the oil flinger behind the rear bearing.  If the gasket in this area overhangs into the cavity it can prevent the oil flowing back into the sump resulting in a leak. 

 

Just found und a couple of pics Fromm Bob B which explain what I mean.

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Edited by RichBad (see edit history)
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Are you sure those felts are not the ones that go on the "wings" at the rear of the pan? Shouldn't be 2 felts inside at the rear main. Nothing goes down inside a channel. I glue the felt to the main block with a dab of "sillycone" in the corners. it in turn is pushed against by a rib in the pan, so no sealer there.

 

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15 minutes ago, dwollam said:

Are you sure those felts are not the ones that go on the "wings" at the rear of the pan? Shouldn't be 2 felts inside at the rear main. Nothing goes down inside a channel. I glue the felt to the main block with a dab of "sillycone" in the corners. it in turn is pushed against by a rib in the pan, so no sealer there.

 

This is my issue if I am reading you correctly. I called Myers and got instructions but must have misunderstood. I put two felts. One on the bearing cap and one in here:

 

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I guess I’m back to sqare one. 

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Yes, that would do it as it would block the return tube resulting in oil overflowing out of the rear of the sump.  Here’s a picture of mine before the sump went on - slightly later model but I think the seal and sump gasket is very similar in this area.

 

i used sealant to ‘glue’ the felt to the rear bearing cap with a little extra in the corners to ensure it was oil tight.

 

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Yes. That’s where I went wrong. I guess I’ll be doing this whole process all over again.  Live and learn I guess, and what’s another $50?  At least I can still move around and I really need to in the meantime  

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3 minutes ago, DB26 said:

Yes. That’s where I went wrong. I guess I’ll be doing this whole process all over again.  Live and learn I guess, and what’s another $50?  At least I can still move around and I really need to in the meantime  

It gets quicker and easier the second time around - trust me I know:). Think I had my sump on and off 3 times during my engine rebuild.  You may be able to re-use your gasket depending on the sealer you used.  I put a thin coating on silicone on the sump face and let it touch dry and then a coating on the block which I stick the gasket to.  When the sump is removed the gasket stays stuck to the block and comes away from the sump easily so can be reused.

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Yes I think I can get it done in a matter of hours this time. Especially since the sludge is already gone. Haha. I just ordered my second gasket set from Myers. I’ll be doing this project after my 30th birthday in a few weeks. 

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And dropping the oil pan on one of these is about as easy as it gets.  You don't even have to jack up the car....

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Posted (edited)

When you come to replace the pan it can be a pain to keep the oil level indicator rod from dropping down.  I place a magnet by the small hole on the outside of the block to catch it if I don't have someone to hold the end of the indicator rod as it appears.  

Edited by R.White (see edit history)
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On 1/1/2019 at 7:46 AM, R.White said:

When you come to replace the pan it can be a pain to keep the oil level indicator rod from dropping down.  I place a magnet by the small hole on the outside of the block to catch it if I don't have someone to hold the end of the indicator rod as it appears.  

Good idea. I’ll be fixing my booboo this afternoon. Wish me luck. 

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Well, the second attempt appears to be a success. No new leaks this time. Thanks everyone for your help.

 

I do have a question about the amount of oil to add to the engine. According to the mechanics handbook it takes 5-6 quarts of oil and the oil float should be at least 1/2 inch above the flat surface:

 

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And here is what my engine  looks like after adding 4 quarts of oil:

 

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Should I run it with the 4 quarts or go ahead and add the final quart?  With the 4 everything seems to be running smoothly and oil pressure is present. 

 

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Posted (edited)

Just my opinion (so please don't assume I know anything for sure) but I think the rod should always remain somewhere between the two rectangular markers cast into the block as guides.

 

I notice that your oil indicator rod emerges between cylinders 1 and 2 .  Mine is between 2 and 3.  I hadn't noticed that before.  You can just see the rod behind the carb.

Ray

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Edited by R.White (see edit history)
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You are at the bare minimum with the rod at that height. Depending on the year of your engine there is either an aluminum or steel cap that belongs on top of the rod. The early ones were threaded and later ones press fit. 

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