David_Leech

No matter how I tried, the picture wouldn't upload right way up. Even if I flipped it before uploading

I bought this exhaust dump a few years back and finally got to installing it today. Before everyone gets bent out of shape, this is totally reversible. This was a common aftermarket accessory back in the day. Activated by a cable on my steering column. Has anyone else installed something like this?

Thanks. I've just converted mine.

I'm in the process of replacing the water pump bearings on my 28 standard six. The outer races are a precise fit, but they can be pushed in by hand. I'm fairly sure this is not correct. I have seen this on some heavy truck king pin set ups, and that is by design. The roller bearings are nice and tight on the shaft. I don't see any signs the original outer races were spinning though. I'm leaning towards using loctite bearing retaining compound to secure them in place. I should have kept the original ones to see how they fit. I'm pretty sure they just came out as well though (it's been a while). Has anyone been into one of these and had this issue? I'd hate for them to spin and ruin the casting

Just got it apart. The two tapered bearings have failed in the front of the water pump

Kept the revs low and checked on it every so often. Made it home ok. Just waiting for it to cool down and I will see what is going on. Other than that, it was running fantastic today. I think the ignition problems are past me and so are the starting issues.

Pulley is fine, took the fan blades off and tightened the nut on the end of the water pump. The play is gone. I can't remember how the pump goes together, but it should us home until I can take it apart and have a better look. The question is, what is letting go to cause the play? The cotter pin was still in place.

We are at the show now, I have some basic tools on the way. Going to take it apart and see what's wrong. Not driving it as it is that's for sure

At a show, on the way there was a bad rattling sound. The fan pulley is loose on the water pump. The shaft is right, but the fan blades and pulley are loose. I have limited tools here. Need to know how it goes together, I can rememberthanks

The starter is rebuilt and cranks over fantastic now. No ground to the starter, just the frane

I'm going to run a ground to the new starter end plate. That's where mine is getting it's ground. For now, running it from the end plate to the frame or another good location. If I'm not happy, then I'll run one to the battery

When I solder them I fill the lug with solder and once it's melted, plunge the cable in. Couldn't crimp it if I wanted to.

I'm at a Mack Truck dealer, made my cables here with 2/0 and soldered on copper lugs. Ran dual starter relays bridged with a copper bus. Not taking any chances with this installation!

My distributor is currently returning to it's elemental form due to being 100 years old and pot metal. Hopefully this is the same case.

I hear you on that. Once I got it off, I went straight to Myers and sighed in relief that it was available. I agree, $235 isnt that bad, but I don't have to be happy about it!

1928 Standard Six. My starter end plate has shattered. North East Electeic. Good news is they are available from Myers, bad news is they are $235.00 Any idea what could have caused this to happen? I suspect the starter was staying engaged or something like that. I don't want to break another! Follow up question, is there a difference in the Canadian and USA models? Secondary question, does anyone have a good used one they are willing to sell?

Great advice, thanks!

Thanks for the advice. I just located my real hard start issue, the rear housing on the starter fractured. Not sure how. New topic to follow...

I think this is similar to what I'm dealing with. It is the only posting I can find so far https://www.1916simplex.com/post/restoration-of-the-driveline

I'm going to take the old cables to work this week and make new ones. I will solder on the new lugs. I think we have #4 to 0000 in stock.

There are two screws, are these for lubricant?

On further inspection, I'm not sure it is a ball and trunnion. It looks like a ujoint turned inside out. Instead of being driven by a cross through the center of the yokes, the yokes are in the center and the ujoint surrounds them, driven by the ring.

Is there any maintenance on this? Does anyone have pictures of what their driveshaft setup looks like?

1928 Standard Six What is the maintenance on the universal joints? I'm not even sure that's what these are to be honest. How does this even work? Are these flex discs?

00! There's my problem... It's running what looks like #4 and just has a braided chassis ground. I knew I was going to need to make some cables, just surprised how undersized they really are!