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Everything posted by stakeside

  1. I freed up speedo but still it is very tight. I need a source for the cable. Mine is about 58” long. Is there a Univeral replacement?
  2. It’s soaking now. Correct, using a screwdriver I can not move shaft. There appears to be a small retainer holding on the disc in the back. Not sure how to remove it.
  3. Not sure how to remove main shaft. It is frozen solid. do not want to pry on pot metal. The holes in front and back had a fiber material that I removed. It may be the removal of the large disc on back side is the key to this puzzle.
  4. This is my 1929 NE Speedo from my truck. Looks quite different. Note wheel with teeth in backside. Everything looks enact but all movement is frozen. Can these be rebuilt or best to replace?
  5. I guess I will need a cable for my 29 Dodge truck. Cable of about 58” length. Once I get cable I can check if speedometer is good. Transmission end. Spedo end:
  6. I had a local agency get my registration set up for my truck. Very helpful and I got a clear title and Got my truck on the road. Did a great job until I ordered special black with yellow letters plates. The original 8 weeks time turned into 8 months. I expected the COVID excuse and that is what I got. Added problem dealing with CA DMV. Any others having similar problem?
  7. This a good investment of your time. Make a summary of parts used in your vintage vehicle. This information does get lost and is good to list on file. I used my excel spreadsheet.
  8. Great source of information on this forum but it may best to have it rebuilt. Especially if you intent to do tours. I decided to pay up and have it rebuilt. I believe Meyers Parts is still rebuilding them. My Stewart runs great.
  9. What is the carb used on and what model is it? Post some pictures.
  10. Thanks for information. I am assuming the adjustment for 23 and 29 should snug tight.
  11. I checked in my owners manual for my 1929 3/4 Dodge Bros truck and noted the following diagram. When checking my truck it appears to be a Hammun box as shown in my “Master Parts booK” There is an adjustment bolt on the side and this appears to be the only adjustment. There must have been a steering box change in mid-year production on these trucks. The Hammun looks to be much more durable.
  12. stakeside

    My 1929 DB truck

    This a 1929 "E " series 3/4 ton stake bed
  13. I believe these 29 DB trucks had an insulated fabric on fuel lines. I am using this fabric obtained at Carquest Auto. I also raised the fuel line 1” higher. Thanks for suggesting different fuel. Advancing the spark helps also. I am getting my engine dialed in with short trips.
  14. I had Sport Sedan and it has new owner in Sweden. Consider this color combination of Sierra Gold and Adobe Beige. These 57s had certain colors that went with the model. Funny thing I discovered at my local Napa shop was a promo posted showing my model.
  15. My 29 DB 3/4 truck has a ratio noted as 51-1 and I feel most comfortable at the 35-40 range. I can even start driving in 2nd gear with no lug down on engine. These trucks were designed to move good and not for quick trips.
  16. The high temperatures on my dash gauge agreed with the sensor reading.
  17. Air temperature was 80 degrees. Sure would like to preserve the original but may have to replace with straight tube brass core.
  18. RichBad is the honeycomb radiator rebuilt? Did you replace the core. I am using the original radiator in my DA6 truck and have found some clogging. See my tread in this forum.
  19. I have a fresh engine with a completely cleaned block and i am using a 160 high performance thermostat. Timing is fully advanced and I am having overheating problems. Radiator has been flushed with Prestone flush. I took a short ran and got up to a temperature of 195 degrees. Using temperature sensing gun I recorded the values shown in the attached pic. The far right temperature is too low. The values near the top should be closer to 190 and the bottom values should be around 150. Would this indicate clogging on right side. The radiator shown is one that is in my bone pile and is for illustration only. The tanks are good but core is not good.
  20. I don’t have much knowledge on rebuilding engines. Little help here but I would suggest getting new head studs. Used ones is risky . mine is a “H” code engine or a six cylinder.
  21. I will use this high capacity thermostat. I got it at local Napa dealer. Also need to check timing with a vacuum gauge Checked on replacing the honeycomb radiator. Cost $1500 + and not readily available. 6 mo back order. 90 yr old radiators not too efficient. The solder breaks down and does not provide positive connection to the fins that transfer the heat. Other option is to replace core with heavy duty brass unit. Cost $1200 but more available.
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