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About dwollam

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  • Birthday 08/15/1954

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    Central Oregon

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  1. I actually got this car for my wife because she is a U.S. Mail Rural Carrier and has RHD vehicles of her own. I thought she might get a kick out of driving this one. We'll see.
  2. I don't have any 1918 or earlier engines or cars so no issue there! I will do some looking in my parts and pieces and in books and see what I can find. Thanks Doug.
  3. I pulled the windshield today and installed the rubber grommets I got from you Doug. Fit well. Also added the rubber strip between the bottom of the windshield and the cowl. Cleaned up and installed a correct right front hood latch too, and added a missing screw and nut to the left headlight mount.
  4. Is that right Doug? A cap on top of the rod? I have never seen a cap on any of the pile of engines I have or anyone else's either! Something to look into I guess?
  5. Oh yeah, forgot about the carb. The float developed cracks and sunk and the needle and weights and lid were so worn the needle would fall out of the weights when the top cover was removed so I replaced all that worn out crap. Now the carb works right and runs smoother. Seem to have the sticking valves lubed up well enough now so they are no longer hanging open. I believe this engine and car were rebuilt a very long time ago and has set and the valve guides dried out and maybe were a little tight to begin with. I have been running it with the valve covers off it so I can spray the valves with Gibbs every time I run it and they no longer want to stick. Only 1001 more things to take care of and it should be good. Fingers crossed....
  6. Drove it out of the garage a couple days ago through a little snow and onto the lift outside and pulled the exhaust and installed a new muffler. I was tired of the carbon monoxide poisoning! Sound much quieter now too. It is amazing how many things can be wrong on a nice looking car . It is nearly driveable now after pulling the wheels and finding grease gushing out around the right rear brake lining, cleaning that up and adjusting the rod so the brakes would actually work. Also found the rear end was packed full of a thick nasty goo that took forever to ooze out and down to the proper level. The rear cover will get pulled soon and clean that muck out and put in new gear lube. Supposed to be in the 40's tomorrow so maybe I will take it for a little drive!
  7. I pulled all the linkage and the bell crank on the exhaust manifold that was for a magneto and re bent the short rod to go direct to the dizzy (for you down under guys!). Works fairly well, took some creative bending over at least an hour but it works to hold distributor steady and advances and retards if needed. Once things are correct the DB's don't need retarded to start unlike Model A's & T's because they have automatic advance as well. Manual retard is for hand crank starting them.
  8. Are you sure those felts are not the ones that go on the "wings" at the rear of the pan? Shouldn't be 2 felts inside at the rear main. Nothing goes down inside a channel. I glue the felt to the main block with a dab of "sillycone" in the corners. it in turn is pushed against by a rib in the pan, so no sealer there.
  9. You can buy cold galvanize in a spray can. Works pretty good.
  10. The baffle is soldered in. The pan is also galvanized. Do not hot tank it. Just wash it out good with parts washer or gas ( I didn't say that). Scrub around in it until clean. It will come clean. Your float must be cracked. Probably best to find another one. Try Myersearlydodge.com or Romars. You may be able to use hot water and ice water to push the oil out of the float, then solder it up. You will have to research which to use 1st, the hot water or the ice water but the temp differential causes gas or oil the be expelled. I have watched it done but forgot which comes 1st. I'm thinking ice water, then hot water but not sure. Good luck,
  11. dwollam

    Screen Side Question

    Jan, your pic is of the front bed panel, not the rear cab panel. I don't have a '23 cab here to look at although I do have two '24 cabs and an early '22 and a couple more including a '23 screenside cowl but alas, no '23 rear cab sections or panels.
  12. dwollam

    Mopar Dodge Plymouth 34 Car Bell Housing

    No one else noticed this is a 60's-70's Mopar dual trans bolt pattern bell housing? (with the orange paint) I think the other is for a pickup. Dave
  13. I did just find pictures in the Master Parts List 9th edition but it only shows Magneto for RHD. The linkage I have looks like that. However, I have a distributor and the lever needs to push forward and back, not up and down as it is now. Mine has the bell crank (and rods) mounted on the exhaust manifold like the car no. 327779 and later.
  14. Are you talking about the Mechanics Instruction Manual? If so, what page number? Or is there another book I don't know about? Thanks
  15. I recently bought a '24 RHD DB Roadster. It doe not have all the required linkage and rods for the mechanical advance for the distributor. Need help from the fellas down under! Any pictures or factory drawings to show me what is missing would be appreciated. I may even need some parts if anyone has some spares. It is a running driving car but that linkage is missing parts under the hood. Thanks