Just Dropped The Oil Pan on My ‘26. Have some questions (With Pictures)

[stakeside]

12 hours ago, RichBad said:

Matt will probably have a few photos showing this as he’s just assembling his engine (although at the rate he goes it’s probably due for its first oil change now:)).

 

i don’t think the felt goes in that groove but may be wrong - I think the 6 still has a knife edge flinger on the back of the crank and you’d want that to be clear.  I think the felt goes on the bearing cap and seals on the thinner lip in the sump.

 

This photo shows a cross section

 

 

This appears to be the 4 cylinder. Note the rear bearing cap on my DA-6 it has 4 bolts.

[stakeside]

On 12/29/2018 at 7:48 PM, RichBad said:

Yes, that would do it as it would block the return tube resulting in oil overflowing out of the rear of the sump.  Here’s a picture of mine before the sump went on - slightly later model but I think the seal and sump gasket is very similar in this area.

 

i used sealant to ‘glue’ the felt to the rear bearing cap with a little extra in the corners to ensure it was oil tight.

 

Note that the DA-6 has a different rear bearing cap.

[Mattml430]

4 hours ago, Mark Gregush said:

Suggest only gluing the pan gasket to ether the pan or the block not both. A smear of grease on the other side should be good enough to seal. In the Ford Model T world, there is a felt seal between the transmission cover and back of block. What many of us do is; work something like right stuff or other gasket silicone into the felt before installing.

I like sealing both side to try stop these old girls from leaking. I fit the pan side side first and let it set a bit on a flat steel bench. Once together I don’t tighten them completely I come back the next day and torque them down. 

[stakeside]

16 hours ago, RichBad said:

Matt will probably have a few photos showing this as he’s just assembling his engine (although at the rate he goes it’s probably due for its first oil change now:)).

 

i don’t think the felt goes in that groove but may be wrong - I think the 6 still has a knife edge flinger on the back of the crank and you’d want that to be clear.  I think the felt goes on the bearing cap and seals on the thinner lip in the sump.

 

This photo shows a cross section

 

 

Your picture shows the felt strip located in the groove in the rear main. Nothing is shown in the 1/2" groove in the crankshaft. Thanks for verifying this. 

I am having an excessive amount of oil leakage at the hole in the bellhousing even though I placed felt strip in the groove in the rear main. There are three holes in the main where oil can enter the reservoir behind the main. This should the only oil entering the reservoir if the felt is sealed.

I filled reservoir with oil and it drains very slowly. I checked the tube and it is clear.

I will be getting a rebuilt engine and would not like this to continue.

Could the problem be: 

1) felt did not seal properly

2) excessive oil pressure

3) 40 wt oil

4) ???????

[RichBad]

8 minutes ago, stakeside said:

Your picture shows the felt strip located in the groove in the rear main. Nothing is shown in the 1/2" groove in the crankshaft. Thanks for verifying this. 

I am having an excessive amount of oil leakage at the hole in the bellhousing even though I placed felt strip in the groove in the rear main. There are three holes in the main where oil can enter the reservoir behind the main. This should the only oil entering the reservoir if the felt is sealed.

I filled reservoir with oil and it drains very slowly. I checked the tube and it is clear.

I will be getting a rebuilt engine and would not like this to continue.

Could the problem be: 

1) felt did not seal properly

2) excessive oil pressure

3) 40 wt oil

4) ???????

I think the three holes in the main cap are to allow excess oil to drain away from the crank and back to the sump.  I guess if the bearing is worn out or has some incorrect machining perhaps  too much oil could be flowing through the holes.  Alternatively perhaps not enough can get through the holes and the oil ends up flowing through to the back of the crank.

 

one thing to check is the shape of the gasket around the rear.  The knife edge on the crank should fling the oil into that catchment area (sump on bottom half and bolt on flange for top half) if the gasket protrudes into that area it can act as a channel for the oil resulting in leaks.

[stakeside]

This a engine that was given to me. It came out of a passenger pen and ran well. I suspect the main bearings may be the problem with oil leakage.

[Mark Gregush]

On 2/1/2021 at 11:01 AM, Mattml430 said:

I like sealing both side to try stop these old girls from leaking. I fit the pan side side first and let it set a bit on a flat steel bench. Once together I don’t tighten them completely I come back the next day and torque them down. 

Pans don't need to be torqued down. If the area around the holes is flat on the pan to start with you should only need to snug up tight. And yes I have installed a good many Model A pans without gluing the pan gasket down, with the T I do glue the pan side, but that is more to keep it in place then prevent leaks while it installed with the engine upside down. Every time you over tighten the pan bolts you are bowing the pan in between each hole and putting a divet and pinch point at each bolt hole.

[Mattml430]

3 hours ago, Mark Gregush said:

Pans don't need to be torqued down. If the area around the holes is flat on the pan to start with you should only need to snug up tight. And yes I have installed a good many Model A pans without gluing the pan gasket down, with the T I do glue the pan side, but that is more to keep it in place then prevent leaks while it installed with the engine upside down. Every time you over tighten the pan bolts you are bowing the pan in between each hole and putting a divet and pinch point at each bolt hole.

I only torque them down to about 6lb. I do that so it’s an even torque on the cork gasket all round.