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Electric fuel pump


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I had both on my 56'. There is a wonderful thing called percolation that happens in warmer temperatures with this wonderful ethanol fuel we have.  My mechanical pump was rebuilt and the electric was available to "help out" whenever she started to stumble when the fuel started to vaporize before getting into the carb.

 

Matt

 

 

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8 hours ago, leon bee said:

Carter P60504. I like it so much I bought a spare. First saw it mentioned here on the board.

 

9 minutes ago, jackofalltrades70 said:

I had both on my 56'. There is a wonderful thing called percolation that happens in warmer temperatures with this wonderful ethanol fuel we have.  My mechanical pump was rebuilt and the electric was available to "help out" whenever she started to stumble when the fuel started to vaporize before getting into the carb.

 

Matt

 

 

You need both pumps as noted.  If you use the Carter pump with a mechanical, you will need to loop around with a check valve since it will not allow fuel to be pulled through (that is my set up).  The Airtex  is a 'pull through' pump but otherwise junk.  That noisy pump is probably the most durable, but too aggravating for me.

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My cars sit more than drive.  Got tired of always cranking for a minute or removing the air cleaner to prime the carb. I put electrics on them to fill the carb before starting and turn them off to drive. No worries about noise or a pump fed engine fire............Bob

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4 hours ago, jackofalltrades70 said:

I had both on my 56'. There is a wonderful thing called percolation that happens in warmer temperatures with this wonderful ethanol fuel we have.  My mechanical pump was rebuilt and the electric was available to "help out" whenever she started to stumble when the fuel started to vaporize before getting into the carb.

 

Matt

 

 

+1.  Only have to use it as a booster on 95+ day, idling in traffic for a long time or filling the fuel bowl after its been sitting.  Doesn't need run for long.

 

Try vibration isolating it with a strip of rubber or some grommets between it and the frame.  The bolts should still ground it.

 

 

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I never had one on a car that didn't come with it new.

 

I had a noisy one on my '86 Park ave that was put on when it got the new engine. I tossed it last fall and put another on, silent now. I didn't think it was supposed to be noisy.

Bernie

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At the cruise events, IF a muscle car rumbles past and you hear the electric fuel pump, you know it should be a serious performance vehicle (with greater than normal fuel needs).  Many were switched separately so that prior to the ignition switch being used, the pump was turned on.  Probably ought to power it with a relay attached to the oil pressure sensor, for good measure?  Several ways to power the pump, anyway.  

 

In many cases, some rubber isolation at the pump mounting bracket can help noise transmission issues, but not the noise the pump normally might make.  There are some OEM inline pumps that are silent.

 

As Old-Tank mentions, a booster pump is needed in hotter weather an/or slow traffic situations.  In many cases, "vapor lock" can be more related to the brand of vehicle than the fuel itself, as it existed when the cars were newer in the hotter regions of the country.  I remember reading about it in the 1960s.

 

NTX5467

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In my formative years I quickly learned that all those old guy telling stories about their mechanical prowess were usually repeating stories they heard from someone who was repeating a story they heard.

They told the stories so much they came to believe it actually happened to them. There is a medical term for it. It is similar to echolalia. Sometimes you let an old mechanic drink enough and they pass out and get quiet.

 

Personally, I have never experienced vapor lock, cut the end of my belt off to use as a bearing, used a rabbit snare to pull out an axle stub, or any of the other traditional stories I heard from 1959 until 1965. Yes, 1965 was  a pivotal year. They built a glass plant in my town. A whole bunch of employees were transferred up north from the plant in West Virginia. Then the car stories really took off with a life of their own. I did get a couple of years for the new tall tales until I went into the Navy in 1967. But I remember a few tales about the factory high performance specials, oh, and drafting a Greyhound bus to save gas, but having the engine lock up from sucking in the diesel fumes.

 

The glass plant is closed now. I think most of them got production jobs in a fertilizer factory about 30 miles away.

Bernie

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The only time I ever experience vapor lock is when I shut the car off and let it sit for 5 minutes before starting again on a hot day. Though to be fair, Washington is cooler than most places, but we always push into the 90s in summer time. Makes me wish I had AC, too.

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Some of those stories might have more logic than suspected, using unconventional implements to do certain things.  Before McGuyver 1 or McGuyver 2.  Did you even kill a snake, then swing it in circles over your head, then release it, and see if it landed on its belly or back?  To predict rain.  NO second or more tries, usually.

 

NTX5467

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McGyver wasn't real. He was an actor following a script.

 

The script was written by six old guys at a break table in a glass plant trying to out-lie each other. A summer helper heard them and took it to Hollywood.

 

I do have an imagine etched in my mind though. John and Jim were cutting drivetrains out of cars in the junkyard. They pulled the car over on its side and propped it up with a driveshaft then cleared the brush so it would catch on fire. John reached down to throw an old piece of heater hose out of the way. At about eye height he realized it was a pretty good sized snake. I don't remember how the snake landed, but John gave a great version of an old Seneca ceremonial dance..

 

Air conditioned cars? I think I was 45 years old when I bought my first.

Bernie

Bernie

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On 6/24/2017 at 8:41 AM, old-tank said:

 

You need both pumps as noted.  If you use the Carter pump with a mechanical, you will need to loop around with a check valve since it will not allow fuel to be pulled through (that is my set up).  The Airtex  is a 'pull through' pump but otherwise junk.  That noisy pump is probably the most durable, but too aggravating for me.

 

Can you tell me what check valve are you using?  

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Parts from Summit Racing:

 

 

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Carter P60504 - Carter In-Line Electric Fuel Pumps

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CRT-P60504
Fuel Pump, Electric, In-Line, 4 psi, 5/16 in. Hose Barb, Inlet, Outlet, 12 V, Each
(Mfr. #: P60504)

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Ready to Ship
Ground

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$52.97

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1

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$52.97

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RNB-55107

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RNB-55107
5/16 In. Brass Tee Connector
(Mfr. #: 55107)

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Shipping From Manufacturer
Ground

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$4.97

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2

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$9.94

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Dorman 800-195 - Dorman Check Valves, Fluid

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RNB-800-195
Fuel Check Valve 5/16
(Mfr. #: 800-195)

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Ready to Ship
Ground

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$24.97

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1

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$24.97

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7 minutes ago, old-tank said:

Parts from Summit Racing:

 

 

spacer.gif

Carter P60504 - Carter In-Line Electric Fuel Pumps

spacer.gif

CRT-P60504
Fuel Pump, Electric, In-Line, 4 psi, 5/16 in. Hose Barb, Inlet, Outlet, 12 V, Each
(Mfr. #: P60504)

spacer.gif

Ready to Ship
Ground

spacer.gif

$52.97

spacer.gif

1

spacer.gif

$52.97

spacer.gif

spacer.gif


spacer.gif

spacer.gif

RNB-55107

spacer.gif

RNB-55107
5/16 In. Brass Tee Connector
(Mfr. #: 55107)

spacer.gif

Shipping From Manufacturer
Ground

spacer.gif

$4.97

spacer.gif

2

spacer.gif

$9.94

spacer.gif

spacer.gif


spacer.gif

spacer.gif

Dorman 800-195 - Dorman Check Valves, Fluid

spacer.gif

RNB-800-195
Fuel Check Valve 5/16
(Mfr. #: 800-195)

spacer.gif

Ready to Ship
Ground

spacer.gif

$24.97

spacer.gif

1

spacer.gif

$24.97

spacer.gif

 

 

Wow service with a smile!  I'm stealing this tip. 

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This does not directly address the question, but does deal with starting a car that sits for periods of time and you do not want to crank and crank to get fuel to the carb.

This is a gas cap that has two holes drilled in the top and two fitting added (my original only had one)  One fitting is 1/4 inch copper tubing, the other is made from a discarded

tire valve (cut off the rubber and the threaded metal goes inside the rubber)  solder both into the gas cap.

With a hand tire pump or sports ball hand pump you can pressurize the gas tank....forcing gas to fill the carb and you are ready to start that old car.

The second tube is used to quickly vent the tank. Hold you finger on the vent while pumping...when you think it has filled the carb, release your finger and the compressed air is released.

It works for me.  

DSCN0624.JPG

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  • 11 months later...

I'm putting in an electric fuel pump in my '53 Super to avoid the excessive cranking after it's sat for a while but also for a backup if I experience vapor lock. I find that now the CRT-P60504 electric pump suggested in this thread is now no longer made according to Summit Racing so I got their recommended replacement, the Airtex 8016SX which gives 2.5 - 4 lbs. psi of pressure. I see in the shop manual that the mechanical pump puts out 4.5 - 5.5 lbs. Any opinions on whether the Airtex 8016SX pressure will not quite be enough? I'm going to bypass the mechanical pump with the electric.

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Carter makes one that come in two different pressures and is only about $35....

it must run all the time.....not to be used just for starting/priming

The one I have is Carter 60504 with a 4psi rating.........Walmart has it online for $31.78 

s-l225.jpg

Edited by Barney Eaton (see edit history)
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  • 3 weeks later...

Many years ago, I replaced the mechanical fuel pump in my car with a Carter electric pump hoping to fix a performance issue.  It didn't fix that issue but I now had a noisy pump and low voltage at idle.  This year, after upgrading to an HEI system just a few days ago, I rebuilt the mechanical fuel pump (Then & Now Automotive) and reinstalled it.  I kept the electric pump (in series at the gas tank) but set it up to only run at starting with a relay (from Daniel Stern Lighting).  See HEI Ignition Upgrade & Vapor Lock.

Edited by fraso
Link update (see edit history)
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22 hours ago, buckeye2 said:

Just a little advice , mount the pump as close to the gas tank as you can. electric pumps push better than they pull.

buckeye 2

Thanks Buckeye2. I noted in the instructions that came with the Airtex pump that they say the same thing...mount it as close to the tank as you can. 

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Hello I had only an electric pump on my 49 replaced it with a rebuild original. If you do install an electric pump mount it close to the tank ,they push fuel better than pull it.Many English cars ,71 MGB for example have only an electric.On vapor lock ,I had a 1941 Packard that was notorious for that , found out the pre heater on exhaust manifold was stuck closed ,freed it up and solved the vapor lock.             If I install an electric pump I install a on  Off switch used it only on start up

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You might wire it with a relay that is energized by the "START" function of the ignition switch, not the "RUN" function.  Of course, on the "foot start 

Buicks", it would need to be energized by what makes the starter turn.  As a "booster pump", it would not necessarily have the same pressure/volume as a single, electric pump only, might need to be?

 

Just some thoughts,

NTX5467

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  • 1 month later...

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