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About fraso

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  • Birthday 07/08/1963

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    Fort Erie, ON

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  1. Carbking has the correct solution to the hard starting problem. I have a Quadrajet on my car that's had the epoxy seal upgrade when it was rebuilt. I have an electric fuel pump on my car and I added an oil pressure safety interlock on it this summer. I find that, even in cool fall weather, the fuel in carburetor will evaporate after a few days. I know this because my car will start shortly after the fuel pump kicks it after several seconds of cranking to build 5 psi of oil pressure. I plan to add a second relay so that the fuel pump is energized when the starter is engaged. If you have a mechanical fuel pump, I would add a solenoid-style electric pump that runs with the starter. This type of pump allows flow-through operation when the electric pump is not running. A vane-style pump has better lift capability but will not flow-through and requires a bypass if used for priming the carburetor. See Vapor Lock for suitable fuel pumps.
  2. fraso

    38 Buick Century, 160° Thermostat...

    The thermostat only maintains a minimum temperature, which is why it allows an engine to warm up faster. The thermostat's rated temperature is where it starts to open and it is fully open about 15-20°F above the rated temperature. Once a thermostat is fully open, the heat generated by the engine and the cooling system's heat rejection capability is what determines the equilibrium temperature. A 160° thermostat does not give an engine more cooling capability than a 195° thermostat. Due to the flow restriction, an engine will run slightly hotter with a fully open thermostat than with no thermostat. See Cooling System and Stant Thermostat FAQs
  3. fraso

    Hi-Flow vs Normal Thermostat?

    I would not rebuild the engine until I was positive that it was worn out. Do you have poor compression or oil pressure?
  4. fraso

    Hi-Flow vs Normal Thermostat?

    Water-to-Air heat exchangers all follow the same rules. Removing the thermostat will cause the engine to run too cold so a flow restrictor allows the engine to run at a higher temperature. Again, don't confuse the rad's coolant outlet temperature with the heat removed from the engine. B.Liesberg: Any updates about your overheating situation?
  5. fraso

    Hi-Flow vs Normal Thermostat?

    That helps to understand the severity of the issue. Higher flow will help but, if you're overheating while idling in traffic, your water pump isn't moving very much coolant. With heat transfer, more flow is better. Don't confuse the rad's coolant outlet temperature with the heat removed from the engine. A thermostat is typically fully open 15-20°F above its rated temperature. In your case, it should be wide open by 180°F so switching to a 195°F (fully open by 215°F) would make no difference. It's always best to have your engine tuned properly. If it's still overheating after the tune-up, then do the acid flush. Citric and oxalic acid are safe for iron, brass, and aluminum and work better when hot. Sometimes it takes several flushes to get your engine clean. I've ran citric acid flushes for several days at time in my engine with no adverse affect.
  6. fraso

    Hi-Flow vs Normal Thermostat?

    Engines overheat because there is insufficient heat transfer from the engine to the air flowing through the radiator. In your case, does overheating mean boiling over and spewing coolant or just running at higher than normal temperature? The thermostat's job is to maintain a minimum temperature. The heat transfer capability of the cooling system determines how much hotter the engine runs over the thermostat's opening temperature. Increasing the flow of the heat transfer fluids (coolant and air) increases heat transfer. Increasing the temperature difference between the 2 fluids also increases heat transfer so if an engine does not overheat with a 160° thermostat, it certainly won't with a 195° thermostat. I would do an acid (citric or oxalic) flush of your cooling system, which will remove more rust and scale than a mechanical cleaning. Although rust and scale on the engine's interior cooling system surfaces will not cause your engine to overheat, they will reduce heat transfer into the cooling system, which could make your engine more susceptible to engine knock for example. See Cooling System.
  7. fraso

    Desired Oil Specifications

    The important specification for a multigrade oil is that it has the hot (ie, 100°C) viscosity of a 30-grade oil. The first part of the viscosity (0W-, 5W-, 10W-, etc) is the oil's cold temperature performance (W means winter). You can easily substitute a 0W-30 or 10W-30 oil for the manufacturer's recommended 5W-30. Generally, only synthetic oils can get 0W cold weather performance. Excessively thick oil when cold does not pump very well and can lead to additional engine wear. See Engine Wear. The requirement for the reduced phosphorus (the antiwear component of ZDDP) content is to minimize poisoning of catalytic converters and has nothing to do with hardened valve seats. The concern with hardened valve seats had to do with the phase-out leaded gasoline in the 70s. If you have a passenger car engine with its original flat-tappet valve train (ie, no high pressure valve springs), modern Starburst oils (with a 600-800 ppm phosphorus limit) will be fine. Additional ZDDP in the oil (as found in HDEO) will reduce valve train wear with the risk of faster poisoning of exhaust catalysts. See Engine Oil Myths - GM TechLink.
  8. fraso

    In-line electric fuel pump

    There is a list of suitable fuel pumps here: Vapor Lock.
  9. fraso

    In-line electric fuel pump

    There is a list of suitable fuel pumps here: Vapor Lock.
  10. fraso

    Zephyr lubricants

    My Motor Manual shows that SAE 30 was commonly specified for Lincolns at above +32°F temperatures and 10W to -10°F. Any modern 10W-30 engine oil would be suitable for your engine. I would go with a 10W-30 Heavy Duty Engine Oil (preferably dual rated API CK-4/SN), which typically have higher detergent levels than passenger car oils (ie, API SN). See Engine Wear.
  11. fraso

    1929 Chrysler - Oil Pressure

    My Motor Manual only goes back to 1935 but I don't think that 1929 cars were spec'd much differently. The warm weather (above +32°F) specified viscosity for 1935 cars was SAE 20 with an oil pressure of 45 psi @ 30 mph. If you're only getting 10 psi at 30 mph with fully warm SAE 30, then you've likely got some mechanical issues to address. It is natural for engine oil to become thinner (less viscous) with increasing temperature. The oil pressure you see on your gauge is a reflection of the oil's flow and downstream flow resistance. Before doing anything else, I would double check the oil pressure with an oil pressure gauge of known accuracy. It could just be that your gauge is way out of calibration. See Engine Wear.
  12. I think you need to check engine lengths to make sure that a slant six will fit. I think the slant six is slightly longer than the flathead. Another option is to put in a 3.9L engine from a Dodge Dakota, which will come with an overdrive transmission. I would go with an A500 automatic transmission with the hydraulic control. The A500 has a slightly larger body than the A904, which requires some floor pan modification on cars but might fit fine in your truck. See Junkyard Wagon !966 Dodge Dart Wagon v-6 in early A-body
  13. fraso

    Ziebart Undercoating - Good or Bad idea?

    Being in Canada, I regularly rustproof my daily drivers and I've tried several different systems. Krown works well but it seems to continuously creep. It doesn't bother me but my wife hates dark film that appears around body panel edges all year. The dark colour may be due to previous rustproofing coatings that were black. I have a 73 Dart that was rustproofed long before we got it. Wherever the coating was intact, the metal was sound. My father did a DIY undercoating of his 77 Pontiac when he bought it. Wherever the coating was applied, the metal was good. Too bad he didn't have the wands to get inside the door panels and other inaccessible places. We bought a new car this year and I decided to go with Ziebart's Permanent Rust Protection system because, although it goes on wet, it sets into a waxy film. It was more expensive upfront but cheaper in the long run with annual touch-ups than the oil spray. I think the skill and conscientiousness of the oil sprayer is more important than the particular brand of spray. I've had rustproofing jobs where the shop missed many places or barely gave the surfaces any coating. It would wise to check any rustproofing work after the application and go back if it looks inadequate. See Undercoating.
  14. A GM HEI conversion would be a better ignition upgrade for your Buick. DAVE's small-body HEI's converts points distributors to electronic ignition distributors. Dave recommends using the original points coil but I think its better to use a low primary resistance (0.5-0.7 ohms) coil instead. I just did the HEI Ignition Upgrade of my Barracuda and it works great. See HEI Ignition Upgrade.
  15. fraso

    what kind and viscosity oil in a 1911 4 cylinder?

    I don't have an earlier reference so I leafed through my 1935-53 Motor Manual and noticed that the summer grade (above +32°F) specified for many 1930s makes was SAE 20. Ford/Lincoln/Mercury, Packard, and Studebaker specified SAE 30. I would not expect that an earlier make would have specified an SAE 40 unless ambient temperatures were very hot. For example, the 1938 Dodge owners manual specifies SAE 40 for average daytime temperatures of 90+ °F (ie continuously recurring morning temperature of 70-80°F AND mid-afternoon peak temperature of 100-110°F). Modern oils have much better viscosity indexes so thinner grades do not thin-out in high temperatures like the old oils. I would try to find an owner's and factory service manual for your car. Until then, I would use a 30-grade heavy duty engine oil. I like Petro Canada Duron SHP 10W-30 but Shell Rotella T4 10W-30 and Chevron Delo 400 10W-30 would also be good alternatives.