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About fraso

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  • Birthday 07/08/1963

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    Fort Erie, ON

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  1. I went through this exercise a few years ago because my factory AM radio quit working and I was looking for an alternative that would not require me hacking up my dashboard. I settled on the Aurora FMC-2 FM Tuner, which is basically a very small PCB added between the antenna lead and the AM radio circuitry. It includes and an auxiliary input (L&R RCA jacks) for an MP3 player and both the added FM tuner and MP3 functionality work well in addition to the AM radio. The connection cable from my phone to the radio doubles as the phone's antenna, which allows the phone to work adequately as an FM radio as well. See Radio Upgrades.
  2. fraso

    '51 Super's frozen heat riser

    All gasoline engines work better with a heat riser system, which is designed to create a hot spot under the carburetor. See Intake Manifold Heat. The part about why the hot spot is necessary starts at 5:35 in the video.
  3. fraso

    Storing a car over winter

    I wrote this article up for ACCCC while I was still a member: Winter Storage
  4. You could also make your own insulating spacer from a sheet of phenolic resin if you have the hood clearance. Put a thin gasket on each side of the spacer. It's best to keep the intake manifold warm but the carburetor as cool as possible. See Vapor Lock.
  5. Carbking has the correct solution to the hard starting problem. I have a Quadrajet on my car that's had the epoxy seal upgrade when it was rebuilt. I have an electric fuel pump on my car and I added an oil pressure safety interlock on it this summer. I find that, even in cool fall weather, the fuel in carburetor will evaporate after a few days. I know this because my car will start shortly after the fuel pump kicks it after several seconds of cranking to build 5 psi of oil pressure. I plan to add a second relay so that the fuel pump is energized when the starter is engaged. If you have a mechanical fuel pump, I would add a solenoid-style electric pump that runs with the starter. This type of pump allows flow-through operation when the electric pump is not running. A vane-style pump has better lift capability but will not flow-through and requires a bypass if used for priming the carburetor. See Vapor Lock for suitable fuel pumps.
  6. fraso

    38 Buick Century, 160° Thermostat...

    The thermostat only maintains a minimum temperature, which is why it allows an engine to warm up faster. The thermostat's rated temperature is where it starts to open and it is fully open about 15-20°F above the rated temperature. Once a thermostat is fully open, the heat generated by the engine and the cooling system's heat rejection capability is what determines the equilibrium temperature. A 160° thermostat does not give an engine more cooling capability than a 195° thermostat. Due to the flow restriction, an engine will run slightly hotter with a fully open thermostat than with no thermostat. See Cooling System and Stant Thermostat FAQs
  7. fraso

    Hi-Flow vs Normal Thermostat?

    I would not rebuild the engine until I was positive that it was worn out. Do you have poor compression or oil pressure?
  8. fraso

    Hi-Flow vs Normal Thermostat?

    Water-to-Air heat exchangers all follow the same rules. Removing the thermostat will cause the engine to run too cold so a flow restrictor allows the engine to run at a higher temperature. Again, don't confuse the rad's coolant outlet temperature with the heat removed from the engine. B.Liesberg: Any updates about your overheating situation?
  9. fraso

    Hi-Flow vs Normal Thermostat?

    That helps to understand the severity of the issue. Higher flow will help but, if you're overheating while idling in traffic, your water pump isn't moving very much coolant. With heat transfer, more flow is better. Don't confuse the rad's coolant outlet temperature with the heat removed from the engine. A thermostat is typically fully open 15-20°F above its rated temperature. In your case, it should be wide open by 180°F so switching to a 195°F (fully open by 215°F) would make no difference. It's always best to have your engine tuned properly. If it's still overheating after the tune-up, then do the acid flush. Citric and oxalic acid are safe for iron, brass, and aluminum and work better when hot. Sometimes it takes several flushes to get your engine clean. I've ran citric acid flushes for several days at time in my engine with no adverse affect.
  10. fraso

    Hi-Flow vs Normal Thermostat?

    Engines overheat because there is insufficient heat transfer from the engine to the air flowing through the radiator. In your case, does overheating mean boiling over and spewing coolant or just running at higher than normal temperature? The thermostat's job is to maintain a minimum temperature. The heat transfer capability of the cooling system determines how much hotter the engine runs over the thermostat's opening temperature. Increasing the flow of the heat transfer fluids (coolant and air) increases heat transfer. Increasing the temperature difference between the 2 fluids also increases heat transfer so if an engine does not overheat with a 160° thermostat, it certainly won't with a 195° thermostat. I would do an acid (citric or oxalic) flush of your cooling system, which will remove more rust and scale than a mechanical cleaning. Although rust and scale on the engine's interior cooling system surfaces will not cause your engine to overheat, they will reduce heat transfer into the cooling system, which could make your engine more susceptible to engine knock for example. See Cooling System.
  11. fraso

    Desired Oil Specifications

    The important specification for a multigrade oil is that it has the hot (ie, 100°C) viscosity of a 30-grade oil. The first part of the viscosity (0W-, 5W-, 10W-, etc) is the oil's cold temperature performance (W means winter). You can easily substitute a 0W-30 or 10W-30 oil for the manufacturer's recommended 5W-30. Generally, only synthetic oils can get 0W cold weather performance. Excessively thick oil when cold does not pump very well and can lead to additional engine wear. See Engine Wear. The requirement for the reduced phosphorus (the antiwear component of ZDDP) content is to minimize poisoning of catalytic converters and has nothing to do with hardened valve seats. The concern with hardened valve seats had to do with the phase-out leaded gasoline in the 70s. If you have a passenger car engine with its original flat-tappet valve train (ie, no high pressure valve springs), modern Starburst oils (with a 600-800 ppm phosphorus limit) will be fine. Additional ZDDP in the oil (as found in HDEO) will reduce valve train wear with the risk of faster poisoning of exhaust catalysts. See Engine Oil Myths - GM TechLink.
  12. fraso

    In-line electric fuel pump

    There is a list of suitable fuel pumps here: Vapor Lock.
  13. fraso

    In-line electric fuel pump

    There is a list of suitable fuel pumps here: Vapor Lock.
  14. fraso

    Zephyr lubricants

    My Motor Manual shows that SAE 30 was commonly specified for Lincolns at above +32°F temperatures and 10W to -10°F. Any modern 10W-30 engine oil would be suitable for your engine. I would go with a 10W-30 Heavy Duty Engine Oil (preferably dual rated API CK-4/SN), which typically have higher detergent levels than passenger car oils (ie, API SN). See Engine Wear.
  15. fraso

    1929 Chrysler - Oil Pressure

    My Motor Manual only goes back to 1935 but I don't think that 1929 cars were spec'd much differently. The warm weather (above +32°F) specified viscosity for 1935 cars was SAE 20 with an oil pressure of 45 psi @ 30 mph. If you're only getting 10 psi at 30 mph with fully warm SAE 30, then you've likely got some mechanical issues to address. It is natural for engine oil to become thinner (less viscous) with increasing temperature. The oil pressure you see on your gauge is a reflection of the oil's flow and downstream flow resistance. Before doing anything else, I would double check the oil pressure with an oil pressure gauge of known accuracy. It could just be that your gauge is way out of calibration. See Engine Wear.