philipj

I also need an ornament for a F-36 Oldsmobile if anyone could help...

Looking for 2 sets of brake shoes GM#410189 or Bendix# 32802 (to be relined) for 35-36 F-Series Oldsmobiles... If anyone knows an equivalent please let me know. Thank you.

The bolt turns, since it is stuck to the inner part of this huge bearing.... Not familiar with the Mopar penetrant, but it is also a challenge to get it in there. There is minimal room... I was practicing with WD40 rigged with a tiny tube and I don't think I got any oil in there... I will try again tomorrow with penetrating oil and a little wire wrapped around the tube for guidance... Today a friend and I tried induction heat getting part of the bolt red, and still did not move at all...;( Well, funny you say that, my next step is a torch to heat up that bolt from the bottom, my only option... I will have to undo the front engine mount bolts and raise the engine enough not to damage the mount. I do not have another spare, and no one is re-vulcanizing them... Never heard about the wax trick, but it is impossible to do anything from the top. My photo of the nut from the top is very deceiving, giving you the impression that there is a lot of room under the front damper... About 3/4" and with difficult access from the side because of the supporting clam shaped plate riveted to the front crossmember... I am going into almost a week just trying to get this out... By far the hardest job I have done under a car with only 18" of clearance....

Still stuck trying to remove the intermediate steering arm bolt... The nut is out, but the bolt won't give! It must be rusted into the inner part of the bearing... I drilled into the bolt and welded a stud and no success... It does not move a mm down, even with the slide hammer... Any ideas?

Oh goodness, what a shame...Very sad to hear that...:((( A real loss to all of us involved in the hobby... Any idea who took over his inventory? He really had everything...

Looking for any tips to remove the intermediate steering arm with the engine in place...Per the 1936 "Shop Manual" the sequence is: 1- Remove inner ends of tie rods from Int. steering arm 2- Remove drag link 3- Remove pivot bolt, nut, and lock plate... Unbelievable how little info is on that book... The nut sits right under the crankshaft front damper. It is very difficult to access with a 3/4" offset wrench... After much effort, I was able to remove the nut, yet the bolt does not simply slide out... I have tried penetrating oil as well as tapping the front crossmember, vise grips to pull the bolt down and nothing... Short of welding a makeshift slide hammer to the bolt head, how on earth are you supposed to remove that? You have no access from the top at all, unless you remove major components...

Great guy, I dealt with him 4 years ago but I have not been able to get a hold of him lately... Is he still in business?

Hello, Do you still have the bearing?

Looking for a cushion spring for 2nd gear synchronizer GM# 1286010, also used on Buick (Series 40, 1934-37) and Pontiac (1935-37) GM# 553715...

After some digging and with the help from Vintage Mopar Parts, I was able to come up with the information which I hope will help someone in the future to find aftermarket parts for the 34-36 Oldsmobile F & L series... Of note, it seems interesting that the LEMPCO and WARNER part numbers share the same prefix, whereas the REPUBLIC is completely different...

Hello, I am looking for a vintage Lempco or other manual transmission parts book with a breakdown for a 1936 Oldsmobile F/L 36... Trying to compile a list of cross reference numbers to share with the Olds Club. Thank you.

Hello, I am looking for additional detailed photographs of GM# 1295995 2nd Speed gear used on 1937 Buick Series 40, 1934-1935 Buick Series 40-50 and Oldsmobile F-34 to F38 and L34-L37. Thank you.

Just got around removing the clock cover and the revised answer is... 1- Red= Power (fused/20 amp?) to any (most accessible) hot side of Delco 479-k light switch... 2- Black= Clock light to Delco 1404 dash light switch... 3- Yellow= Ground I'm afraid that Bloo wins with the correct answer!.... Somehow I would never choose yellow for ground, but black, brown, or even blue...

You're correct, the protrusion is hot and I believe is a circuit breaker similar to what is found on various light switches from the 40's...

You are a wealth of information my friend and I appreciate you putting it down for me to see, thank you... As for the fuse holder, I think that will work, I just have to take off the rear cover and see if I can confirm how the wiring should be done... My last electrical question from the photos is the cigarette lighter... It is my understanding that the power comes also from the light switch but I do not know from which hot terminal, if it matters on the 479-K switch...