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Hello thank you for your reply,what I am looking for is how the back curtain is held to the top bow is there a piece that is tacked to rear bow that has the twist fasteners attached that then this holds the back curtain up ?Also the dimensions of the rear window frame On the rear curtain.I think the fastener retainer that tacks to top bow was not included in new top . I wrote to Lebaron Bonney to see if it is available,thinking that it would be length of back bow and maybe 3 inches tall with the twist fasteners on it .This would be hidden under the valance panel and not visible from outside of top,also dimensions of the fasteners on retaining strip may help also . Thanks again ,Gary

iuHello does anyone have a original or correctly restored 1949 Buick convertible?Looking information on the rear curtain is held to top bow with the twist fasteners.I have enclosed a few pictures of the area am taking about.My Top was changed to the horseshoe type zipper, should have a zipper on ether side and top edge held to bow with twist fasteners.Thanks to anyone that can help me with this .Gary

Hello I also have a 49 Super that was being restored.Trim parts are hard to find being a one year only style for Buick.Trim that I did replace most of it came from EBay.The rear fender trim was straightened and reused but am still looking for better pieces,they were really bent up along with the fenders they were attached to.The front fender and hood trim will interchange between any Super model ,the body trim ,doors ,rear fenders,trunk,etc will interchange between Super and Roadmaster convertibles .Rear fenders interchange between the convertible and Sedanette ,2 door fastback.The hood plastic trim and rear deck plastic is available as repro. from Bobs or Cars ,also on eBay or contact them directly.Hope this helps.Good Luck on your parts search.Gary

1941 to 1948 distributor with the 3 ball plate for reference.

Glad you found problem I had a wire in distributor that was broken on inside would contact until the vacuum advance moved it hope the wire is cause of your problem.Make sure the screws on points and condenser don’t interfere with plate rotation,1949 models don’t use the 3 balls to hold the plate,it rides on a oil filled felt plate ,you mentioned earlier about oil in distributor someone may have over oiled it.

Make sure the distributor plate where the points and condenser mount rotates freely if you disconnect the vacuum advance .and also check the vacuum advance is also working .mine was jammed up from someone putting too long of screws in causing it to bind up changing the timing.

Hello does anyone have pictures or measurements for the fasteners and rear window placement on a 1949 Buick Super convertible?Thank you

Glad you have it working now you never know what previous owners did when they modify things as I mentioned mine had a modified wiring system took it out a put in a new harness.

Hello I just aligned back with the square plastic after removed arcing marks on both parts, this also caused the relay to fry so I had two problems that I had to figure out be careful when tightening down bolts.and make sure the contacts are hitting flat on each other.All this was on my car when I bought it along with a homemade wiring harness that I had to replace so I can relate to chasing down wires etc to find out the real problem was.

Hello the starter you have is identical to to mine ,it was contacting from the side contact getting twisted from tightening it and then it contacted the round contact.just that small square of plastic is supposed to to keep it aligned and in location might be something to be aware of I had worked on mine for a couple of days before figuring that out .Mine is converted to 12 volts also but never had an issue with the switch on carburetor or Dynaflow.Actually a 6 volt system has to handle more amperage so the original 6 volt switch should handle 12 volts that’s why have to use much thicker cable on on a 6 volt .Hope you find source of the problem I’ve been through similar issues and can be frustrating.Thought the new starter will help. Good luck .Gary

Finally got a chance to road test the changed out differential much quieter than the old one , doesn’t sound like being chased by a Wolfpack .Thank you to every one who responded to the post.Now on to the top installation. Gary

There was one of these on EBay for sale a few months ago

Solenoid would be the smaller cylinder is mounted towards the top on your starter,however if you take it apart may void any warranty it may have .I still think that there is a mesh issue on ring gear as others have mentioned as cause of the high load . My car rarely turns over more than six times before it starts.a high electric load will also keep car from starting, not having enough current for ignition system.

Sounds as if the new solenoid is stuck if it runs with just the battery cable attached should not run unless solenoid is contacting I would pull the flywheel cover and Check ring gear and mesh of gears.on my high torque starter the solenoid did stick I took the two long screws that held it together and separated the stuck contacts then filed down the burnt marks . I think your ring gear and Starter are hanging up overloading the motor.

Also when ingnition is in off or lock positions ,starter should have no power, My car has a new reproduction harness in it and replicated the original. Perhaps some one did some rewireing that’s causing problems.