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Garage & Car Barn Thread


alsancle

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Picking up plans for an existing garage warehouse building. I have some land and am planning to redo along the garage edinmas is building,  more like 75x150. Examining my plat in order to where to build? I will not cut down major trees, and not sure how close I can build next to my lake, but would like to have a water view. Some questions about parking for guests, but these can be without cutting trees.

 

Will keep you posted.

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We actually boomed the remainder of the big trusses up today.    I think out of 4 weeks of construction,  they have had 2 decent days to work.  Every other day was either bitter cold with a strong biting wind or raining at some point in the day or both.  We even had snow one day.    I actually poured in the 4 man door sills yesterday as the mason poured them too low.   I also opened 2 of them up to 36 that were 32 inch.  The 2 far ones were actually already set to 36 inch doors.  

We actually boomed up 10 or so of the non sheathed trusses with Big Birtha.  It actually worked quite well.  The sheathed ones we knew were too heavy so we hired the boom truck back to do those. 

We still have the short truss caps to boom up but that's not as much a task at 4 foot tall  and 16 foot long as the main trusses  which were 12 foot tall and 64 feet long.  

I'll try to get some photos posted tomorrow.  I have more dirt to move around this weekend if it doesn't freeze so they can get Birtha around the far corner to put the hanging rafter/ ladders up.  The plywood finally.  

It's nice to finally see 15G in trusses up rather than in a heap on the ground.   Also frees up some space around the building. 

I know the incidental trips to the lumber yard are killing me.  A few hundred here a few thousand there for bracing banding etc.  My bank account is sure shrinking fast. 

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4 hours ago, SC38DLS said:

Two very important questions. 

1.  When is the grand opening party?

2. Are we all invited?

 

we need updated pictures, hopefully you are progressing along. 

Dave S 

 

Stuck in Thanksgiving week. Need foundation plans to submit to the City. I have some good people helping me move along. but it can take time getting the permits and bids. Hopefully aiming no later than Spring. Fortunately in the South that we don't have snow or bitter freeze.

 

You will all absolutely be invited!!

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5 hours ago, trimacar said:

Any "barn find" out of a building that's insulated and well lit, is not a "barn find"......

 

Very nice place, though, Andrew......I'm more than jealous, but still thankful for what I have...in the spirit of Thanksgiving!

 

David, Happy Thanksgiving. With the collection of cars you have there is no cause to be jealous of anyone.  

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A good friend of mine built his Roundhouse car garage back in 1972.  His father was a railroad man and it was his idea to build an automobile display building complete with centre turntable to allow the cars to be driven forward into the building onto the turntable then backed into each spot easily.

The building is 60ft in diameter and makes for a rather unique display.  Sorry I don’t have better photos.  

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On ‎11‎/‎12‎/‎2017 at 7:17 PM, Bill Caddyshack said:

Just how to best make the undercarriage, and don't tell me about an army of dwarves named "Arnold". <grin>

 

Let's think seriously about DIY machinery. Any engineers here???

 

Concrete circular pit a foot deep.

 

3/16 steel plate for top, reinforced radially from center with channel iron, industrial casters on outside end of each channel iron.

 

Central shaft, which is lowered into and rides on large bearing assembly in center of pit.  A 16 foot diameter 3/16 plate (7 pounds per square foot) and reinforcement would weigh in at 2000 pounds or so, plus weight of car, for bearing design.

 

Pit would have a small recess somewhere along circumference, friction drive and small reduction motor, it wouldn't take much power to turn, servo motor probably best for positive stop.

 

All in all, a lot less trouble to pay the 13K or so per the website that was referenced!!

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9 hours ago, Brass is Best said:

 

60' by 80' allows for 10 cars on each side with enough room to pull each one in and out. 

Perfect.  Mine is 60 wide by 72 long so at max without equipment I may be able to get 9 to a side.  But 8 for sure.  I doubt I will ever have 16 cars,  so I should be in good shape,  plus I have the finished 28 by 50 which comfortably holds 4 large cars and you can squeeze another in the center if need be.  

I try not to collect too many project rough cars,  so the others tend to be more expensive thus fewer to fill the space. 

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In the project cars,  I was referring to the ones that really need everything and most likely will never see the road as funds and time never align to let me do a full restoration.  I like the ones I can get up and going,  then improve as I drive or sell to finance the next one.   The ones I actually see the light at the end of the tunnel on.

 

I did actually get some pictures today. Here is where we are at.  Weather permitting,  we should be able to get most of the roof sheathing and final roof banding,  facia, etc,  this week. 

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One of the brilliant ideas I looked in to back when I actually had enough money to build a garage was the idea of a restored timber frame barn.   There are many companies that dismantle, repair and rebuild vintage barns in a new location.  The advantage is that you get wood that sometimes is no longer available and a vintage look not attainable with new framing.   The disadvantages we can all guess but the biggest one that I found was the lack of clear span vintage frames.    Most barns were built for live stock and are done in "squares" of different sizes, most of which are not great for cars.    This is actually a 36x80 foot frame that is currently for sale and is clear span.  Almost unheard of in a barn this old and large.

 

http://www.antiquebarns.net/rarebarns/large-clear-span-gambrel-barn/

 

 

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21 hours ago, Modeleh said:

A good friend of mine built his Roundhouse car garage back in 1972.  His father was a railroad man and it was his idea to build an automobile display building complete with centre turntable to allow the cars to be driven forward into the building onto the turntable then backed into each spot easily.

The building is 60ft in diameter and makes for a rather unique display.  Sorry I don’t have better photos.  

805A5C57-CDF2-40E2-9111-CA78272ABC3E.jpeg

C533D864-83FC-4913-B744-CE502CAF0E9E.jpeg

 

Modeleh,

   I really love the design of your friend´s  Roundhouse. Nice Franklin & Hudson, too. Is it 8-, 10-, or 12-sided? I´d love to have one. You could start a nice Peerless Museum with a building like that. What are the beams at the 12-ft. level made of, gluelams or structural steel? I built a 120-ft. x 30-ft. storage unit with ten 30-ft. bays, which is good if you like dealing with twenty roll-up doors, but this one will hold nearly as many cars with a lot less roof.

Edited by jeff_a (see edit history)
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5 hours ago, edinmass said:

Very nice, and well built. No OSB - good choice.

They can preach the praises of OSB all day long,  but the two gable ends were sheathed on the ground,  then a third center truss was sheathed with OSB as a draft break for when I finish the building at some point (required by code) and the Plywood looked like it was just nailed down after sitting flat and getting rained on for a week before we hung it in place.  The OSB one was absolutely horrible and bowed so bad it had fishing ponds between the braces.   That's after one week. 

I've built just enough to know OSB is good for almost nothing but instances like the draft break. 

Hopefully we'll make some good progress on the roof this week.  My funds are dwindling fast and getting replenished very slowly even though I have been listing like mad to try to offset the "extras"  

I'm almost certain right now,  there will be no money left over for windows and doors (even man Doors)  so I am going to have to do some really hard selling to come up with enough money to put those in, so I can get it sided. 

In the end I'm sure I will be happy with all the upgrades, but right now they sure are making things tight.

Let's keep our fingers crossed for good weather this week.  

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23 hours ago, Brass is Best said:

60' by 80' allows for 10 cars on each side with enough room to pull each one in and out. 

 

Here are some suggestions.  I've laid out parking,

indoors and out, and designed buildings.

 

I think that would be tight for 10 cars.  If those are INSIDE

dimensions, it gives parking spaces 8 feet wide, which are

okay  for storage, but you might choose 9' or 10' wide for

easier maneuvering into the spaces, and for less chance

of door dings.  A good outdoor commercial parking space is 10' wide,

sometimes 9', and remember, our cars may be larger than today's cars.

 

If you want an easily maneuverable central aisle, with

parking spaces on both sides laid out perpendicular to the side walls,

the book Architectural Graphic Standards gives a 66' inside dimension. 

You could probably get by with 2' or 3' less.

 

Remember, I'm quoting INSIDE dimensions.  Add wall thicknesses

to get the outside dimensions of your building.

 

These are just some tips.  Every square foot costs money,

but having a bit more maneuvering space can avoid scrapes,

especially if you're parking your cars without someone to guide you.

 

Edited by John_S_in_Penna (see edit history)
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Another path I considered was using one of the regional stick built Barn companies.  In NE there are a bunch of them.  These guys are local to the state and have some really cool garages:

 

http://circleb.com/garages-storage/

 

Stick built is obviously much more expensive than metal, but I don't really have that option where I am.   There were two designs I really liked with this one being the best because of the clear span:

 

http://circleb.com/building/g017/

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5 hours ago, alsancle said:

I was wondering about the insulation in a post and beam style construction.  If you fully insulate the walls, you lose the aesthetics of the post and beam.

Part of the evils of living in the north Country.  You have to give up style sometimes for efficiency if you want to keep everything inside nice. 

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5 minutes ago, alsancle said:

So,  remind me again what the good part is of living in the North Country?   

 

Speaking of rural Pennsylvania at least, and undoubtedly of other areas too:

 

Cooler summers.  Where I grew up, the typical summer high was 79 degrees.

Plenty of greenery.

Colorful autumns.

If you live in small towns and rural areas, 35 m.p.h. country roads everywhere

     where you can enjoy your old cars at a leisurely pace.  You could cross the

     entire state in a 1920's car if you wished.

An abundance of countryside and woods.  Free to enjoy, inexpensive to buy,

     and perfect for erecting a car barn.

     

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Understand the cooler Summers.   I'm thinking a perfect existence would be 6 months in Maine or NH and 6 months down south, although not necessarily FL.

 

I enjoy the ride down 81 to Hershey every year and realize that Penn is a vast state.   The issue we have is that the jobs are at the fringes of the country but the best living is in the middle.

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Since I've studied all the buildings these guys have built I'll regale you with more of my favorite ones.  I like this because of the access,  although my town as zoning restrictions on garage doors and I would probably be over the limit.  The lack of clear span is an obvious demerit but I'm sure you can build it without the columns for more money.

 

36' x 56' x 14'

 

http://circleb.com/building/g025/

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I liked the idea of more garage doors,  but the heat loss out the garage doors/ drafts coming in, (even on good doors) plus the cost made me design mine with just one large door and hopefully big enough to be able to park more cars like Brass is Best's set up.  

I figured the clear span on mine was the way to go,  regardless of cost as there would always be a post in the most inconvenient place no matter where it fell.  We'll see.  Hopefully another week or so and I should start being able to put stuff in it for the winter. 

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On 2017-11-23 at 10:13 PM, jeff_a said:

 

Modeleh,

   I really love the design of your friend´s  Roundhouse. Nice Franklin & Hudson, too. Is it 8-, 10-, or 12-sided? I´d love to have one. You could start a nice Peerless Museum with a building like that. What are the beams at the 12-ft. level made of, gluelams or structural steel? I built a 120-ft. x 30-ft. storage unit with ten 30-ft. bays, which is good if you like dealing with twenty roll-up doors, but this one will hold nearly as many cars with a lot less roof.

I believe it’s 12 sided.  The posts are steel, most likely old boiler tubes, the beams are solid Douglas Fir about 6x18.  It’s nice having just the one door, allows for better insulation of the building and more wall space for displays.

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  • 1 month later...

A cheap way (relatively speaking) to get a decent sized building is Morton.   Anybody here build one?   There are some that actually don't look like a metal building.  This one is 36x60 which would be perfect for me.  I wonder if you can side it using shakes?

 

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12 hours ago, alsancle said:

A cheap way (relatively speaking) to get a decent sized building is Morton.   Anybody here build one?   There are some that actually don't look like a metal building.  This one is 36x60 which would be perfect for me.  I wonder if you can side it using shakes?

 

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Since it's a pole barn you can side it any way you want,  but by the time you take away the metal,  you don't really have a Typical Morton type building and the price goes up because you would need to sheath the whole thing.  That's why I went stick built.  I wanted wood siding and a shingled roof so the whole thing needs to be sheathed.  That and I didn't want any poles in the ground and planned to heat it,  all led me away from the Morton or similar style building.  

I think I have around 100G in my shell with frost walls stick built,  shingled roof and all the board and batten siding purchased and stained. No windows doors or floor.  That's 60 by 72 foot though clear span with a 16 foot finished ceiling height. 

I'll try top get a current photo tomorrow. Though the roof got covered with snow as soon as they finished putting it on.  Atlas I have all the labor costs to this point and can do most the rest of the labor myself as time and money permit.  

Edited by auburnseeker (see edit history)
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9 hours ago, auburnseeker said:

Since it's a pole barn you can side it any way you want,  but by the time you take away the metal,  you don't really have a Typical Morton type building and the price goes up because you would need to sheath the whole thing.  That's why I went stick built.  I wanted wood siding and a shingled roof so the whole thing needs to be sheathed. 

 

Agreed.  I was thinking I would cedar shake just the front to match the house.  I could angle the building so the rest of it is obscured unless you were a deer or coyote.

 

The other issue with this particular building was the lack of a balcony or 2nd floor.  I have a lot of junk, plus this wistful notion of organizing a library of my stuff.

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It's suppose to be 7 above today with a -2 windchill so I will be out putting plastic up over my windows.  (it's -13 right now) I did the shaded side yesterday,  because there was blue sky,    the sun never shown here on the garage because of a band of clouds on that side of the sky all day.  It wasn't bad so I should be able to do the sunny side today.  

I have to save up for the windows,  so I wanted to keep the weather out until I can afford them. They are going to be around 6,000. dollars.  I just got a quote for the concrete floor at 6 inches thick with extra steel to support my equipment at 20G.  I think the infloor will probably add another 10, or hopefully a little less to just get the insulation and tubes in.  

It's going to be a 200G building before I get it done.  (don't tell the wife). 

I guess no Auburns in my future.  

Edited by auburnseeker (see edit history)
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