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Garage & Car Barn Thread


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Auburnseeker has a build thread going and I looked around for a general garage/barn thread and couldn't find one.  It would be interesting to know what everyone has for garage or barn space.  Since I was in my teens I dreamed of having a dedicated car barn or garage.  Life tends to get in the way of these things and then you end up with the choice of having the car/cars or the garage.   My dad built a dedicated garage finally when he was in his late 70s.  He went pre-fab and it can hold 6 cars comfortably with space to work and a full 2nd floor.    I had plans and engineering for a barn that will comfortably hold 10 cars.   I really don't know what it will get built. 

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I was thinking a garage thread here would be a good idea but didn't know if the moderators wanted any more work.  It would be nice for the members instead of joining a whole new forum where you are the newbe that doens't get a whole lot response.

I will keep posting on mine as things progress.  I checked in with a local truss company about steel chicken house style trusses.  We'll see how it goes.  I have some details back from Morton but I have to go over them good to be sure of what they have drawn up.  They already have it at a 4 on 12 pitch which is less than the 6 on 12 I was thinking. 

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This type of thread would be really cool to follow.  Sometimes logistics get in the way as well.  We are adding a single car garage (pre-fab, gets delivered Thursday - yeah!) to accommodate the T Speedster, the parts and a lawn tractor.  The 24 X 24 main garage will be able to be cleared out a little bit so I can actually use my workbench. For me this is probably enough as it seems 3 collector cars is likely the right number for me.  To AJ's point, I want to have some money left to improve the cars after we solve for the space!   Of course more space would be nice but as before the new cars will just continue to sit out...

 

Initial plans were for a two car garage - a no brainer, one might think given an acre and a half but the lot is kind of oddly shaped, and the ideal place for the two car did not meet the 35 foot setback from the property line our particular zone called for.  Anyway, we settled on the single car and had to do some site prep - lot leveling, and tree removal to get it ready to accept the garage.  I think we cleared 25 - 30 trees this summer as the project has morphed into some other landscaping/reclaiming some yard from the woods.  It was a small fortune but now I am already thinking it might have been feasible to put a bigger building where we are locating this one - 12 X 20.  This part of our lot is very rocky and wooded, and if you do not DIY it is expensive..  Anyway, I will post some before and after shots as well as the two boulders removed that gave the bobcat operator fits.  Hopefully Seeker does not have any of that crap when we does his excavation!

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The small first floor windows are by design.   1.  Security,  2. Privacy, 3. Don't like light hitting the cars.

 

I investigated Morton, etc, for prefab but have only rarely seen a metal building made appropriate for a residential neighborhood.  Stick built is much more expensive but I can't put a commercial looking building next to my house.   I have a buddy who put a huge (for the lot) 40x50 metal building high enough for a second floor.  His neighbors went beserk and the town changed the zoning.

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I am currently involved with building a fairly large garage, it's too big to be called a car barn so I guess "building for a collection" would be most accurate. There are NO windows, as almost all collectors with a fairly large amount of cars agree the light does the most damage, even with modern glass installed. We are going 180 long and 75 wide with two garage doors, one at each end. With one single enterance door. Works out to about 12,000 sq feet. Tight, secure, and simple. 

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Not sure if anyone has heard of this fellow up here in Canada but he built a car barn for his better cars that is like no other I have seen. The roof has seventy tons of imported slate on it alone. He will open it one time a year for a very large car show. He will also entertain car clubs for a tour of his two buildings. Steve is extremely down to earth great guy. The only problem I have with his place is there is no work bench or tools that I have ever seen.

  Now back to my 3,000 sq. ft. converted goat barn / restoration shop with a work bench, dirty tools plus no air show overhead. 

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That's what I would like to build but the budget just isn't their.  

With the layout of the property and existing buildings we are working on making this our final home.  It's a nice custom home with a nice secluded lot in town with about 7 acres on a hill with a view.  To give you an idea of convenience they just built a good sized grocery store about an 1/8 mile from the end of our drive and you can't see it from the house.  The wife likes that.  The interstate is also less than a mile from the house but you can barely hear that and only when the wind is blowing this way,  you can't see it. 

With the free standing roof I'm thinking I can then customize it as I finish it off. Just to give it a little flare and style.  I would like to do stone up a couple of feet then wood siding if I don't go with cement board.  I may have enough wood that I have to clear to side it if I get it sawn.  Unfortunately it won't be dry for a year but there will always be stuff to work on. 

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Here is a picture of my previous barn that I design and had framed and roofed, then I finished. It is 48'X30' with the center 24' a full two story with storage above that for long stuff. The right bay is the shop and there is a 10' wide overhead door on the inside going into the shop to move big projects or just make going back and forth easier. There is a 4'x6' trap door in the floor so with my tractor's front end loader I could move big stuff upstairs and I did. This went up in 1984-85 and was one of the things I would have like to take with me when we moved. I do like my somewhat smaller but all under the house shop that is never to hot or cold and I don't have to go outside to get there. I may still add a small storage building for a car or two at the new place but getting rid of about 2/3 of accumulation I am starting to like less and have missed very little.

If I was building a standalone shop building to day I would probably build very similar to what I designed last time with a couple acception. I would make it 2 feet taller on the first floor, affordable lifts were not something I thought would happen when I built the first one and it only has 10' ceilings in the center. I would put an I-beam down the center to eliminate 2 support poles in the center section I didn't think would be in the way, they were. I would go 6-10 foot deeper so two full size cars could go end to end, with Crosley's it wasn't a big problem but it would have given me more options. If budget allowed I would probably go 8' wider adding the extra space to each bay just for more elbow room.

 

 

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I just heard back from a somewhat local steel truss company about 2 hours away and they can/will build the style trusses used in this freestanding roof structure. 

That is with our areas snow loads a 6 on 12 pitch and a shingled roof figured in the design.  

Does anyone see any drawbacks to starting with this style and then finishing the walls and stuff to my taste?  I know I can get away from the look of a tin shed that way. 

I can see some real positives including being able to get the trusses to the job site easily, Pouring the floor after wards easily as the truck will be able to access it from almost any angle. Gives me a roof to work under while I'm doing the floor.  It lets me customize it alot once it's up as the wall space will have very little load bearing area. It will let me decide how much work I want to do and How much I can contract out for the finishing end and I can adjust as the kitty runs dry. 

Image result for free standing roof structure pavilion barn

Edited by auburnseeker (see edit history)
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How is the roof insulated?  If you can side it with something other than steel then you will get away from the industrial look.   The only drawback to me would be if you can't squeeze in loft or second floor space.  A dissembled car takes up 4 stalls.

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I was planning on insulating the roof on the inside unless they can do foam over the perlins.  It was going to with a lower non vaulted ceiling anyways.  I have the walls specked out for 16 foot so I can do a second floor on one or both sides and leave the center bay open for a lift or tall car/ truck/ equipment. 

Timber frame would be great but as you said a budget buster.  My initial budget is around 100,000.  For that I hope to get the frost walls, floor with radiant heating in it but not hooked up, roof finished and hopefully enough to pay for siding materials and insulation that I will have to install.  Hoping to cover the cost of one 12 by 14 door, 3 man doors and 8 windows as well.   I think that's pretty realistic especially if I only have the roof sturcture put up and the concrete work hired out.  

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I think you are upstate NY?  I would think 100k should get you pretty close unless you get crushed by the site work.  Don't underestimate that part of it.  Excavating equipment is very expensive by the hour!

 

15 years ago a friend built a 30x26 stick built 1.5 story barn that matched his house. Fully insulated, finished first floor, rough second.  Heated.  Ornamental doors.  All in it was 85k.  But that was Mass & 15 years ago.  I imagine the prices have gone up.

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I have the Excavator with a blade (Kubota XK121)  and a 45 Horse 4 wheel drive tractor (DK45 Kioti) with a Bucket.  As long as I don't hit ledge which could be drilled and pinned or boulders the size of Buicks, I should be in good shape.  Diesel fuel is pretty cheap as is grease for the pins and bushings.  I bought the excavator with this project in mind. 

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I got a quote today for steel chicken house style trusses.  Wow.  44,000    just for the trusses laying on the job site.  I think I need to do some price checking. 

Steel conventional trusses for the same building 33,000 and conventional wood trusses from the same company 17,000.   The steel chicken house trusses are figured at 2 foot on center. I guess they are basically just using them as steel rafters at that spacing.  Everything is figured at a 70 ft lb snow load and I believe 90 MPH wind speed. 

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"

Nice,,,,,, with that said, lower windows look small, but I like lots of natural light when possible, and with security in mind." by smithbrother.

 

I hate it when the sun shines bright right where you are working, it gets in your eyes and you can't see in the shadows. Very distracting.

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1 hour ago, auburnseeker said:

I got a quote today for steel chicken house style trusses.  Wow.  44,000    just for the trusses laying on the job site.  I think I need to do some price checking. 

Steel conventional trusses for the same building 33,000 and conventional wood trusses from the same company 17,000.   The steel chicken house trusses are figured at 2 foot on center. I guess they are basically just using them as steel rafters at that spacing.  Everything is figured at a 70 ft lb snow load and I believe 90 MPH wind speed. 

 

44k.  Ouch.

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24 minutes ago, Roger Walling said:

"

Nice,,,,,, with that said, lower windows look small, but I like lots of natural light when possible, and with security in mind." by smithbrother.

 

I hate it when the sun shines bright right where you are working, it gets in your eyes and you can't see in the shadows. Very distracting.

 

I'd rather nobody looks in.

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Yeah it looks like conventional trusses maybe or?  Still researching it.  

58 minutes ago, fordrodsteven said:

built mine last year. Currently installing a lift.

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What building system did you use?  The trusses you used look similar ot what I want and it looks like you have a 50'? span. 

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I think my next trip might be to the local architect to see what he can come up with.  I was trying to be cheap and have the company I bought the product from design it and give me plans but maybe I would be better to go it myself. 

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The excavation and install new concrete walls was $38K. The building was $16K. with all the extras (permits, variances, lift rentals, electrician, doors, window, some tooling) It ended up between $85 to 90K. I still need to get an apron across in front of the doors. The new floor ended up about a foot higher than my yard grade.  I bought the building from worldwide steel buildings. It measures 28 feet deep by 45 feet wide. It's 12 feet high at the eaves and goes up to about 19.5 feet at the peak. The single door is a high lift door. It goes up around 13 feet high inside when opened. That bay is where I'm installing the lift.. I will be putting a loft over the left side workshop area. My property measures 47 feet across at the back and 59 feet across at the front. It's 200 feet deep. The garage is built right where my old garage (20 by 45 by 10 feet high shed type roof.)  was at the back of the property. I liked that it is open span. My neighbor and I built it. He's 70 years young and I'm 62 years of age. It took us around a month to build it. I used a lift to put up the trusses and the roof girts. All the rest of it was done off of ladders. This structure is one foot from the property line on each side. The rear wall is 8 foot high concrete retaining wall (see this picture) . Probably the hardest part of the whole job was putting up the roof panels. We had to go from one side (the right hand side) up over the peak and down the other side to put the panels on the left side of the roof. Black panels were also very very hot in the sun when trying to be on them screwing them down.

 

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Edited by fordrodsteven
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Good question AJ  - I think you know I got skunked, perfect, clear area for a two car to the left of the pics below BUT not 35 feet in from the line, which is required in our zone for some reason, let alone a foot..

 

Anyway, here are a couple pics of our project, albeit a bit smaller than some of the other great buildings on this thread.  First is 8:00 AM this morning, after a LOT of site work this summer, and the second, 9:00 AM.  We wanted the double doors vs. the garage door to make it a little more "barn like".

 

Last is the inspiration car, a reminder to me as to why I added a building just to house a "T" project that is all apart... :D 

 

 

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Edited by Steve_Mack_CT (see edit history)
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On ‎8‎/‎31‎/‎2016 at 9:40 PM, alsancle said:

How were you able to build within a foot of the property line?  Because of where the old garage was?

 

The old garage was actually a foot over the property line into my neighbors property to the right side. When I applied for the variances from the town I stated that the garage was nonconforming and that I wanted to build it the same size (45 feet) and that when I moved it and built it on my property it would be less nonconforming. The vote from the town was not unanimous but it carried and I got my variance and special permit to build. It was a long process. It took me longer to get the approval that it took for excavation and rebuild.

in these pics you can see my old garage was right at the wall. In the other pics the garage is a foot in from the wall.

 

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Steve_Mack_CT

 

That's a nice looking shed/ Garage.  I'm hoping my project has some nice curb appeal when done.  It's hard to make a Wallmart super center blend.  Atleast that's what my wife calls my garage plans.   I think I can make it blend enough to not be a negative on the property.  

 

I also hope i only run into rocks the size that you did.  I've pulled rocks that big out of my drive way already.  It's the Buick sized ones that have me a little scared and with atleast a 6 foot grade I'm sure I'm going to hit something my machine is not going to be happy with.   We'll keep our fingers crossed.  Something has to go my way for a change right? 

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Thanks, Really enjoying the "real garages" you guys are posting - but ours does fit the need so I won't complain!   Ahh, those #$%&^ rocks, biggest one was sticking up perhaps 6 inches in the last 6 inches of the site.  Site guy was supposed to come this past Monday, when I would have been around to advise if the rock is a hassle, we can adjust the site a little bit.  Well, he came early while we were away, and called me afterwards with an update, advising how the rocks were a bit challenging for him.  To his credit he stuck with agreed price, but if he had come when I was there I might have saved him the trouble...

 

Seeker it was nice to meet in person @ Rhinebeck, BTW.  Hope you have smooth sailing for your project but I would also say finding that Cord in CA went your way!  :-)

 

 

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Well I guess a few things have gone my way but every one seems to come with it's own specific challenges that try to throw a wrench in the works.  The cord deal went fairly smooth except the seller required that you or someone look at the car for you as a representative.  My representative was vacationing  on the the east coast  when the car came on the market.   I was just lucky he was headed home in the next day. 

The original shipper was a nightmare and 3 months of excuses on why they couldn't get around to pick up the car even though they were driving within 1 hour of it.  However,  after hiring a real professional company things got squared away in short order. 

The building has been a bit challenging in the financial end.  I have the money tied up in 2 properties so atleast one needs to move before I can really proceed as my start up cash is probably enough to get the plans and footing / frost wall done, but that's it. 

With the pavilion idea,  I can pour the floor later so all  I will need to front should be a deposit on the trusses. By the time they are done,  I should have some money to get them paid for,  and the roof up and shingled.  Then I can go from their.   All sounds good.  Lets just hope it will work out.  As you mentioned Steve_Mack_CT it seems to work out,  just a ton of nail biting and sleepless nights in between. 

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Yep I remember your woes with the shipper, I think posts may be gone did see the specifics.  We have been doing a lot with contractors this year on the home front, and I tell them all the same thing - once we agree on price, scope, etc. if you cannot keep your schedule, and want to tell me that morning, don't bother to show up at all as the deal is off.  If I take time from work, kennel my dog or make other arrangements around a specific date, it is only fair you keep it or advise well in advance.  Shipping a car is no different to me.  You were 100% in the right to give the feedback you did and as I think you noted, you may pay a little more but the true pro route is the way to go.  Too bad the guy wasn't up front with you and say it was just not a fit...  Anyway, back to these wonderful buildings!  :-)

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17 minutes ago, Steve_Mack_CT said:

Yep I remember your woes with the shipper, I think posts may be gone did see the specifics.  We have been doing a lot with contractors this year on the home front, and I tell them all the same thing - once we agree on price, scope, etc. if you cannot keep your schedule, and want to tell me that morning, don't bother to show up at all as the deal is off.  If I take time from work, kennel my dog or make other arrangements around a specific date, it is only fair you keep it or advise well in advance.  Shipping a car is no different to me.  You were 100% in the right to give the feedback you did and as I think you noted, you may pay a little more but the true pro route is the way to go.  Too bad the guy wasn't up front with you and say it was just not a fit...  Anyway, back to these wonderful buildings!  :-)

 

LOL, you expect auto shippers to be prompt, courteous, and thoughtful! How quaint!

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On 8/31/2016 at 6:20 PM, alsancle said:

 

I'd rather nobody looks in.

 

They make these things called "Blinds" :P ;) I use aluminum blinds so that when I want light, I pull them up or open them appropriately. When closed they do not allow any light or prying eyes. Smaller windows are not conducive to escape should the need arise. You never know where in the building you may be located when in need of escaping, so all windows are large egress type for this reason.Your code may require them. I have heard of people trapped and a horrible death resulted.

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Great thread.... Here is my garage that I had put up about 5 years ago...I wanted a over-sized two car garage, started to get estimates and the highest one came in at $103,000 !  That was for a stick- built garage, I ended up going with a pre-fab garage instead. Cost of the garage itself was $28,000 ( $2000 of that was transportation / bridge crossing ), excavating cost $0, ( my friend did it , just had to keep his tractor filled with gas ) foundation cost $4300 and electrical cost $4500. If there was anything that I would have change would be the access to the loft. It currently has a pull down attic ladder, I want to eventually put a exterior staircase to gain access to the loft.  As you can see from the last photo, three vehicles were tight, so I added a 4 post lift as of last year. 

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