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1955 Buick Century


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I am now down to the very last item inside the car that I will remove here.  I don't know the proper term for it.  So, I will just call it the firewall insulation pad, shown here.20210702_164811.jpg.512441bff7dcfc9c799836413c7feb78.jpgAt this point, there are only 2 screws holding this pad in its place.  They are both at the very far sides.  Remove both screws.20210702_164820.jpg.f1d11955c50209f430094cee6fb2d2fd.jpgCarefully pry off the insulation from the firewall to avoid breaking or tearing.  That's really it.  Showing the area after removal.20210702_170020.jpg.0c7c4cf3c90c3b7e982942f555941946.jpgShowing the firewall insulation pad removed from car.20210702_170124.jpg.5578a29135911245ff097ec4ddd4a2dc.jpgOverall, this was an easy task.

 

 

 

 

Edited by Kosage Chavis (see edit history)
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I am now at a transitional point in the removal process.  The body is now ready to be separated from the frame and the only thing left in the way of doing this is the brake pedal shown here.20210702_170724.jpg.6c8121bbc4b95dcdf5f8cd2d395853f2.jpgJust on the other side of the firewall is a singular bolt that will release the brake pedal.20210702_170740.jpg.46e5ab2da11b8ccd36bb387c3f6ff5f7.jpgLoosen and remove the bolt.  Twist the brake pedal until you can pull it from it's socket.  Once removed, I reinstalled the bolt to avoid losing it.  Showing the site after removal.20210702_171128.jpg.8c5f7e21ec737fa1a3c7e46c40e3ea3d.jpgShowing the brake pedal after removal.20210702_171142.jpg.5c2ebf113df550281dffda2e214c415c.jpgOverall, easy task.

 

Unfortunately, I will have to take a brief hiatus from working on the Buick.  I understand that it won't be long now until I will make the transition from removals to refurbishing and installation.  I also don't want to separate the body from frame until I make my garage more functional.  So, I will be working on a homeade elevator to make it easier, quicker and safer to get from the floor to the attic.  There will be some more things I will add as well.  I will cover that stuff in my "Chavis Garage" thread.  Not to mention, I am going to build a playset for my kids too.  Hope to be back here sooner, rather than later.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Got a question...

 

Let's say you work for a shipping company and your job is to load shipments on a conveyor belt that has a 10 foot drop at some point along it's intended path.  Now, let's say that while you are doing your job, you come up on a shipment that looks like this...20210813_162513.jpg.fee198eadd828ee35f1dcbd2b803d37b.jpg20210813_162502.jpg.be0c24ee9049e33375d7b78a8f468966.jpgDo you load it up or do you hold it back?

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On 9/11/2021 at 2:36 PM, Kosage Chavis said:

Do you load it up or do you hold it back?

 

Based on the condition of some of the packages we receive lately, not only do you load it up but you probably put the belt on high speed and take bets on if the package will survive the fall, then send it on as if nothing ever happened. 

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The reason I posted that question in my previous post is because the shipping company decided it would be okay for this crate to go down that 10 foot drop.  I was told the windshield broke at the drop.  Everything about this was messed up.  This whole thing started with a gentleman that wanted to buy some Buick parts from me.  That included the windshield and some additional items.  I made the crate myself and packed it with styrofoam to keep things from shifting around.  I even added handles on each side so that the shippers would have an easier time moving it around.  I packed it well enough so that it could survive a roll over or a small drop.  I carried it to the shipper.  They were informed of its contents and they knew it weighed 135 pounds.  I even stenciled the words "GLASS" and "FRAGILE" on all sides of the crate so the shippers would handle with extra care.  The shippers weren't at all worried.  I would think that the shippers know the process the package would have to go through and if there was any doubt or concern, they would inform me of this.  Therefore, I wasn't worried at all.  I payed the money and got the tracking number.  I informed the buyer that the crate was shipped and forwarded the tracking number to him.  A few days went by and I hadn't heard anything from the buyer.  I contacted the buyer and asked if he had been tracking the package.  He said he hadn't, but would do so soon.  Another few days go by and I hear nothing from the buyer.  So, I went ahead and decided to track it myself.  Come to find out, the crate traveled from Virginia to Houston, Texas, with some exchanges along the way.  It was doing good until right before it went out for delivery and that's where it became damaged.  They didn't specify what the damage was, but said they would notify the sender of the damage.  However, this damage had already occurred a few days before I discovered this message.  No one called me or emailed me anything.  I called the shipper up in Houston and got an automated answer.  I then called my local shipper and they told me no one had notified them of the damage.  They told me they would look into what happened and call me the next day.  No one called me.  I waited about 3 days and still no call.  So, I called again.  I talked to the same person who never called back.  This is where I was told about the 10 foot drop along the conveyor belt path.  She said the windshield was damaged on the drop and all of the contents in the crate were discarded (thrown away).  I asked why in the world would they throw everything out just because one item became damaged.  No good answer.  I asked why any shipper would let this type of package go down a 10 foot drop.  Again, no good answer.  I asked why the shippers at my local store didn't voice any concern, knowing these shipments go down these types of drops and has a good chance of being damaged.  No good answer.  Adding insult to injury, the shippers even opened up a claim and closed it without my knowledge.  They found themselves not liable.  Of course I asked how come I wasn't informed of the claim when it opened and when it closed.  No good answer.  I asked if anyone took pictures of the crate and damaged contents.  They didn't.  No documentation whatsoever.  I asked why this was.  No good answer.  So anything could have happened and the shippers get away with it without so much as a blink of an eye.  I also asked why would they throw everything out when I knew other items were not damaged.  Why wasn't I given any option on the items that were still good.  No good answer.  I told them that this was bad business and that I should at least get my money back for what I paid in shipping cost.  She said that they couldn't.  I asked to speak to a supervisor and I was told that the supervisor was going to tell me the same thing.  I basically had no recourse in this matter at all.  I not only had to eat over 300 dollars in shipping cost just so they could carelessly damage good car parts, but I was very upset that they also carelessly and indiscriminately threw out good Buick car parts that were still in good shape.  Not to mention the time I put into building that crate myself.  I got to admit, it depressed me for a few days.  I was very upset.  Then on top of that, I had to explain this to the buyer.  He gave me a lot of money to do all of this and he wasn't going to get anything.  I couldn't deal with that so I just refunded all of his money.  I am good now.  I will just take this as a lesson.  

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1 hour ago, Kosage Chavis said:

I will just take this as a lesson. 

Thats exactly what they expect you to do. Print your comment out and mail it to your better business bureau and file a complaint at a minimum. Send a copy to the shipping company CEO.  Post your comment on any social media review forum they have.  Those folks may not care less but the squeaky wheel gets the grease.  Never lose your senses and keep your comments respectful but make some noise. Chances are all your parts are still there where the broken box is. Maybe you'll at least get a few back. 

Good luck!

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Not a shipping story, but interestingly I just discovered that the USPS requires 2 days to deliver 'overnight' from central NY to NC (Wilmington).  The interesting part is the same does not hold true for the reciprocal trip (that's 1-day)...  :huh:

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2 hours ago, old-tank said:

If you cannot share the name of of the shipping company on these forums, send a PM so that I don't get the same treatment.

Me too, please. Some shipping companies are just too smug in my opinion. 

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I have no idea what shipper you utilized but they screwed you royally.   The delivery should have been attempted to allow the recipient to accept or refuse for damage.   If refused the terminal should have called you for disposition.  Return to you free or dump it.   If you filed a claim, without declaring a value(pay for additional insurance) the claim would be settled at cents/pound.  Usually something miniscule.  If you declared a value and paid some additional insurance for the declared value the claims department will fight you tooth and nail in hopes you go away.  Eventually paying you shipping costs and declared value.  Of course, you would need invoices showing the cost of parts to a Buick built in 1955.  It is a crap shoot when shipping some items.  I would still go after the carrier for monies lost.  

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Boy, what a frustrating story.  Very sorry this happened.  I hope you will share the shipping company on here publicly.  I would not be calm with them, personally.  That's the worst possible outcome in all respects.  Oh, how I would love to get my hands on the clowns who made each of these terrible decisions, especially throwing everything out.

 

I hope you are able to salvage something from this.  All the trouble you went through to help out another car and owner, and this is the treatment you're subjected to?  Karma needs to get cooking on those fools...

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Okay, time for something more uplifting.  I got this in the mail a few weeks ago.  It's an oil filler extension that came standard on cars equipped with A/C.  20210922_183259.jpg.fb9da86f71999779a8dae10be635bd28.jpgIt also came with some extras...a pair of fresh intake valves that are part of the A/C evaporator box. 20210922_183253.jpg.6995fba71d5b3d8a0986195c8721d2c1.jpg Both are compliments of Mr Lamar.  Thank you again @MrEarl.

 

And today, I got these in the mail.  A set of 1955 Roadmaster wheel covers with the center ornaments.20210922_181849.jpg.823a7667fefce962f60ad10d0f0f6293.jpg20210922_181901.jpg.d0e95cefcca3e97bec2b321dc82f2545.jpgI know these are original to only Roadmasters from 1955, but I always loved them and at least wanted to have the option to use these instead of the plain ones.  Not too sure which set to use right now, but these were a set that were in pretty good shape while being affordable.  Compliments of Ebay.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/19/2021 at 8:03 PM, Kosage Chavis said:

I am now at a transitional point in the removal process.  The body is now ready to be separated from the frame and the only thing left in the way of doing this is the brake pedal shown here.20210702_170724.jpg.6c8121bbc4b95dcdf5f8cd2d395853f2.jpgJust on the other side of the firewall is a singular bolt that will release the brake pedal.20210702_170740.jpg.46e5ab2da11b8ccd36bb387c3f6ff5f7.jpgLoosen and remove the bolt.  Twist the brake pedal until you can pull it from it's socket.  Once removed, I reinstalled the bolt to avoid losing it.  Showing the site after removal.20210702_171128.jpg.8c5f7e21ec737fa1a3c7e46c40e3ea3d.jpgShowing the brake pedal after removal.20210702_171142.jpg.5c2ebf113df550281dffda2e214c415c.jpgOverall, easy task.

 

Unfortunately, I will have to take a brief hiatus from working on the Buick.  I understand that it won't be long now until I will make the transition from removals to refurbishing and installation.  I also don't want to separate the body from frame until I make my garage more functional.  So, I will be working on a homeade elevator to make it easier, quicker and safer to get from the floor to the attic.  There will be some more things I will add as well.  I will cover that stuff in my "Chavis Garage" thread.  Not to mention, I am going to build a playset for my kids too.  Hope to be back here sooner, rather than later.

 

Thanks for the photo of the brake pedal in the firewall. The rubber and felt are missing on both my cars. I knew they had one but wasn't sure what it would look like.

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  • 3 weeks later...
12 hours ago, Kosage Chavis said:

 20211203_202359.jpg.eb4362fa6f3e96f5a1dd7f7f64319488.jpgDoes anyone know where this chrome piece goes?  Thank you.

This is an extra bar from another radio, that would be in where the black one is on yours.  It looks like the style that was used in Chevy 57 and up.

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  • 2 months later...

I haven't had the chance to work on the Buick in a good while, but that doesn't mean that I am not thinking about it.

 

Something came to mind...and it wasn't a good thing.  It came when reading people's posts regarding their nailhead engines and the question of whether to add hardened seats to the heads or not.  I listen to those who are well versed with these engines and I understand that it's a cardinal sin to do so.  

 

I then remembered when removing my engine from the car and opening up to discover that the heads looked like they had been rebuilt.  I reached out to the previous owner who confirmed my guess.  It didn't occur to me then, but it finally hit me recently...I bet the shop added hardened seats to the heads.  So, I am a bit worried that one or both of my heads are ruined.  

 

Just something I wanted to share with you all.  Any of you have any thoughts?

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  • 3 months later...
On 2/25/2022 at 6:53 PM, Kosage Chavis said:

I haven't had the chance to work on the Buick in a good while, but that doesn't mean that I am not thinking about it.

 

Something came to mind...and it wasn't a good thing.  It came when reading people's posts regarding their nailhead engines and the question of whether to add hardened seats to the heads or not.  I listen to those who are well versed with these engines and I understand that it's a cardinal sin to do so.  

 

I then remembered when removing my engine from the car and opening up to discover that the heads looked like they had been rebuilt.  I reached out to the previous owner who confirmed my guess.  It didn't occur to me then, but it finally hit me recently...I bet the shop added hardened seats to the heads.  So, I am a bit worried that one or both of my heads are ruined.  

 

Just something I wanted to share with you all.  Any of you have any thoughts?

I would make sure you procure an extra set of heads because if you plan to drive the car, it's only a matter of when, not if the heads will crack in my opinion and those heads will become harder to find each year. 

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1 hour ago, lancemb said:

it's only a matter of when, not if the heads will crack

Not in my experience on the 264/322 nails.  I replace 2 heads due to a botched exhaust valve seat replacement.  They were replaced with heads from a parts car with 265,000 miles.

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3 hours ago, old-tank said:

Not in my experience on the 264/322 nails.  I replace 2 heads due to a botched exhaust valve seat replacement.  They were replaced with heads from a parts car with 265,000 miles.

But the heads with 265,000 miles didn't have valve seats right?  My point is I wouldn't install heads valve seats without a backup set.

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Since the heads are done, I think I would just use them, and hang on to your spares.

 

More was learned in the late 80s and 90s about valve seat recession without lead. I turns out it is rarely even measurable in street driven cars. There are always exceptions, but not that many. Heavy use, like heavy towing, dump truck, cement mixer, etc. will probably get valve recession without hard seats.

 

Edited by Bloo (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/26/2022 at 2:21 PM, Kosage Chavis said:

Got this in the mail yesterday...a generator for AC equipped Buicks.  Compliments of Mr Lamar. Figured it would be good to have one for backup or for parts.

I have found that these generators are basically the same as all long style generators. The only major structural difference is the ends and the pulley. Some units have bearings on both ends, some have only on the front, but usually the armature, field windings, and associated internal hardware is exactly the same. Additionally, the only thing that makes the generator output more amps is the voltage regulator.

 

Always good to have two, though!

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13 minutes ago, Beemon said:
On 6/26/2022 at 4:21 PM, Kosage Chavis said:

Got this in the mail yesterday...a generator for AC equipped Buicks.  Compliments of Mr Lamar. Figured it would be good to have one for backup or for parts.

I have found that these generators are basically the same as all long style generators. The only major structural difference is the ends and the pulley. Some units have bearings on both ends, some have only on the front, but usually the armature, field windings, and associated internal hardware is exactly the same. Additionally, the only thing that makes the generator output more amps is the voltage regulator.

 

Always good to have two, though!

And the part number on the generator for my low mileage AC car is one for non-AC.:P

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