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1955 Buick Century


Kosage Chavis
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23 hours ago, Specalist John said:

Hello Kosage...I've been checking you out..I have NADINE at the Beauty Shop, I have to finish it for my Dad. With his passing away few weeks ago REALLY put a fire in me 

Man John.  I really hate to hear that and I extend my condolences to you and your Fam.  
 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I haven't posted much lately, but I have been working on the parts car.  Mainly, working on whole new set of crates for the engine20210203_165618.thumb.jpg.fb6d1dfcb2c7018495a44fae3e5238a3.jpgand a dolley for the transmission.20210203_165624.thumb.jpg.56399a09b58de5d435c023779f5062db.jpg I then moved back to removals.  Here's something I thought was interesting.  Whoever drove this car decided to bypass the original temp gauge and installed a temp gauge from a 54 Roadmaster or Super and installed it where the original clock goes.20210203_165701.thumb.jpg.8a003fe5e76ce6e6bc9ea86c010ac600.jpgWhen I looked at the original temp gauge, I could see the the tubing line had been either broken or cut.  Here's some of the progress I am making on the parts car.20210203_182109.thumb.jpg.a28136d4e09b6795446038063345be58.jpg20210203_182119.thumb.jpg.3519872406c6c6222ca62c6944789771.jpgMy hope is to get this parts car fully parted out by the spring.

Edited by Kosage Chavis
Pictures uploaded upside down. (see edit history)
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  • 2 months later...

After a brief haitus, I was able to get back on the parts car.  Got the dash out.20210205_182631.jpg.3db75c604a0812b39a43945e2f21733b.jpg20210205_182613.jpg.a9e6108bb99e69468e81d5a128d7c35f.jpgI also got the hood off.  The springs were challenging to get off.  It took a lever, hook and chain to do the job.  Then, after unbolting, I laid the hood on a slopping 2 x 4 and carefully slid it towards the front of the car until I was comfortable enough to pick it up and move it.20210404_195242.jpg.2c3102d07001aebae514787188cf0fd4.jpg20210404_200146.jpg.46988d21203f8ea2d445466af26d517d.jpgThe rear seat is out and the front seat is unbolted.  I will worry about how to get it out later.  Transmission will probably next.

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On 4/5/2021 at 9:57 PM, Kosage Chavis said:

After a brief haitus, I was able to get back on the parts car.  Got the dash out.20210205_182631.jpg.3db75c604a0812b39a43945e2f21733b.jpg20210205_182613.jpg.a9e6108bb99e69468e81d5a128d7c35f.jpgI also got the hood off.  The springs were challenging to get off.  It took a lever, hook and chain to do the job.  Then, after unbolting, I laid the hood on a slopping 2 x 4 and carefully slid it towards the front of the car until I was comfortable enough to pick it up and move it.20210404_195242.jpg.2c3102d07001aebae514787188cf0fd4.jpg20210404_200146.jpg.46988d21203f8ea2d445466af26d517d.jpgThe rear seat is out and the front seat is unbolted.  I will worry about how to get it out later.  Transmission will probably next.

I saw a post with photo that showed flat washers thick enuff that they had to be tapped between coils when the hood was up to keep the spaces open lowering the hood somewhat let the extended springs off the hook so to speak.

Edited by 2carb40 (see edit history)
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  • 1 month later...

Some more updates on the parts car.  I am making progress, just not at the pace I'd like to go.  I finally was able to access the under seat heater and I was pleasantly surprised by it's condition.20210407_165841.jpg.f723964a4f5bf686d664f36786912865.jpg20210408_185422.jpg.97b2a959eaa8536cc71af175627f0e95.jpgThe heater core is actually in better shape than the one from my main car.20210408_185427.jpg.24061fc73152dca67ec3d6447bf1330d.jpgI also found a couple of small documents underneath the front seat.20210407_165941.jpg.97f147e2ee3dcd03c9029213c74d7747.jpg20210407_165951.jpg.48250873535c96bb35bb535b38552c4b.jpgOne looks like a time card from someone's job and then an inspection form.  Looks like this car spent most of it's life in Elizabeth City, NC.  Also, I got the transmission out and placed on it's roller.20210412_165814.jpg.902bec790be29d62ac87dca3896c33b0.jpg20210412_165825.jpg.b81efca6267d923e22729f4845e4f0b2.jpgGot the steering column off with a bit of trail and error, and a little help from my friends here on this forum.20210508_211629.jpg.2b515bfac8abbbd720f7342ecf155313.jpgAnd finally, I was able to remove the steering gear assembly.20210511_183351.jpg.34788a0d74375c4d2c5e3bcd7ae189fd.jpg20210511_183403.jpg.95cbe3fd6acf43cdaf3962752faf1777.jpg20210511_183422.jpg.252e507cc1e9c1e3d51e17092ae3cb36.jpgThat Pittman arm is a huge "B" to get off.  The car is getting close to being finished.  I can't wait to make some room in the workshop and get started back on the main car.

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Rear bumper off and wiring harness removed.20210514_164118.jpg.31e7b09f718b1f2504998978cf316337.jpg20210512_171950.jpg.82fe289ed8606c9032f2af3b1ad1fb88.jpgI also took a trial run at lifting the body off of the frame.  Everything worked pretty smoothly.  Much easier than I thought.  Just need to remove the 2 rear doors and the body will be ready to come off.

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Major step taken today.  Got the rest of the doors off and was ready to remove body from frame.20210515_181437.jpg.2c257045e47065c8351e95e9e0c2443d.jpgDon't know if I will ever need these, but retained them anyway.20210515_162242.jpg.f77f20515188bbb3317aa527e377dba5.jpgI don't have a car lift yet, so I had to improvise with what I had...some old school jacks, a couple of work horses and 2 x 4's.  Don't laugh.20210515_201806.jpg.ed040b6d217b18d81f06d8be548c7ce8.jpgI was extremely careful, but almost dropped it.  Regained stability and cleared it from the frame. 20210515_202240.jpg.e5db2a01c55a28869535f66bf2c567ce.jpgI knew that a decent gust of wind would knock the body down, so I went ahead and started to lower it back to the ground.  I lowered the back end with no problem.  Then when I tried to lower the front end, the body fell straight to the ground.  No worries.  It's getting scrapped anyway.  However, I will definitely NOT use this method on my main car.  Now I need to tear down the frame. 20210515_210640.jpg.8b32ed93950bf1e6eda69211e7eaa990.jpg

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Posted (edited)

Started tearing down the frame today, but not without taking note of some things.  First, getting a record if the fuel line layout.

Then, the layout of the emergency brake cable.

 

@lancemb, I wish that I could keep the frame.  It's rough but pretty solid.  I just don't have the room.

 

Edited by Kosage Chavis (see edit history)
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3 hours ago, dei said:

Amature suggestion here... Save as many frame clips as you can, if you can. Bag and tag them as I'm sure they might be hard to find?

By the way Kosage is picking this car apart, I doubt he'll leave any scraps behind!  Great suggestion though, and same is true with body.  Get any clips for trunk boards, wiring, etc. because if you come up short later it will be a PITA to procure one.

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Just got this in the mail...factory rear speaker cover with hardware, compliments of Mr William from facebook.20210521_140719.jpg.dc65c69a9ef9b2168041ee0b3fc3b77c.jpgHad no clue the screen was separate from the frame.  The screen seems to be made from a wire impregnated mesh or something.  Either way, it is in ver good shape!

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Have a close look, it might be flocked. If it needs redoing you can get flocking kits online. I bought one 3 years ago for something unrelated.

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1 hour ago, Bloo said:

Have a close look, it might be flocked. If it needs redoing you can get flocking kits online. I bought one 3 years ago for something unrelated.

I didn't know anything about flocking before this.  Thank you for that.  The flocking on my grill looks older.  I can tell because on the other side, there is an imprint of the rear shelf cut out for the rear speaker left on it.  

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On 5/25/2021 at 11:05 PM, Kosage Chavis said:

Just a detail of the entire power brake system before I remove it.

Kudos for putting this great video together. This video shows what Buick failed to show 1953-1956 Buick owners (and mechanics) with power brakes in their Shop Manuals. The routing of the vacuum and hydraulic lines to the Power Brake Cylinder and the four wheels are very similar for the four years; the vacuum reserve tank was added in 1955. 

 

Any chance of posting a picture(s) showing where the Car Serial Number is stamped on the topside of your frame rails?  Thanks again.

 

Al Malachowski

BCA #8965

"500 Miles West of Flint"

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Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, 1953mack said:

Any chance of posting a picture(s) showing where the Car Serial Number is stamped on the topside of your frame rails?  Thanks again.

Thank you.  I will take look tomorrow and report back.

Edited by Kosage Chavis (see edit history)
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I am finally at the end with the parts car.  The entire power brake system was removed.  I was able to fully save all of the hard lines to template new ones with.20210528_175628.jpg.60f257fd1b1ef2ac6e19dba1966ff53e.jpgThe rear end is removed.20210528_175101.jpg.984f904db3852121133378ecf26aed0d.jpgAnd the frame is fully disassembled.20210528_175157.jpg.3ae3a114bd3373cc4d72cfc8873384e1.jpgThe body is already placed to the side.20210528_175049.jpg.7deae599b8d18aacd42b6fc490f11775.jpgNow I need to organize and box all of the remaining parts that I intend on keeping.  Everything else will be put up for sale very soon.  Can't wait to resume work on my main car again.

 

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@1953mack, I looked at the specific locations on the frame as you suggested and look what I found.  I had to sand and clean the area well, but I found it in this spot, just below the blue flashlight shown in this photo.20210530_143400.jpg.ab95c6a45c0c75e7b054f2dbf391e620.jpg20210530_143413.jpg.f7abbaffb21486761d155319c4362aad.jpgHere are a couple of shots at different angles, but you can somewhat make it out.20210530_143435.jpg.013aa28704d2f94fd92561fd2f41d5e1.jpg20210530_143515.jpg.5ce486405b9affe3aa6a5bacfa9fb8e7.jpgThe VIN on my parts car is 6 B6010190.  I could only make out 8 stamps.  Out of those 8 stamps, I could only read the last 6 which says 010190.  The first stamp is impossible to read while the 2nd stamp looks like it could definitely be a 6.  So there you go.  1955 Buick frames do carry a stamp on them...at least in my case.  I will look for this on my main car and report that when the time comes.

 

Also, for those with little resources but need to move a frame around without help, it can be done.  It was time to move the parts car frame out of the garage.  I decided to take the rear end and use it as a dolly.  I placed a 2 x 4 on top of the frame to rest the front of the torque tube on while I rested the very ends of the frame on top of the shaft housing of the rear end.  I put on my work out belt for my back and some gloves.  The frame is extremely heavy, but I was able to lift the other end and roll it where it needed to go.  20210530_153209.jpg.a351dadf3da4d9c758b162a438e67769.jpgAfter you park it, just back the rear end up and roll the rear end from the frame.  On to the next thing. 

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Posted (edited)
13 hours ago, Kosage Chavis said:

. . .  I looked at the specific locations on the frame as you suggested and look what I found . . . The VIN on my parts car is 6 B6010190.  I could only make out 8 stamps.  Out of those 8 stamps, I could only read the last 6 which says 010190.  The first stamp is impossible to read while the 2nd stamp looks like it could definitely be a 6 .  .  . 

 

Thanks again for taking the time finding and taking pictures of the stamped Car Serial Number located on the topside of the frame rail near the rear of the passenger's side of the frame. There might be a second "hidden" location somewhere else on this frame to keep honest people honest.  Not stamping the first digit "6" (designating a Buick 60-series) on the frame rails makes sense since 1955 Buick 40-60 Series Models used the same basic frame. Here's my best guess of the eight characters.  

 

1-1959.jpg.fa66033188f80e820a4e6843358ad7b2.jpg

 

 

Al Malachowski

BCA #8965

"500 Miles West of Flint" 

Edited by 1953mack (see edit history)
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On 5/21/2021 at 6:56 PM, Kosage Chavis said:

I didn't know anything about flocking before this.  Thank you for that.  The flocking on my grill looks older.  I can tell because on the other side, there is an imprint of the rear shelf cut out for the rear speaker left on it.  

 

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Bought this power brake set through facebook.20210530_202019.jpg.d98000dc6ca31c7b434449a18e5b578f.jpgI have been buying Buick parts off and on for the last 5 years and I must say, this one was a bad experience.  There was no care taken in boxing up the parts.  I was missing a couple of parts and one of the parts was damaged.  Thank God I didn't pay much.  Power braking parts, compliments of facebook.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I am very happy (and relieved) to say that I am finally done with the parts car.  All parts that were kept are boxed and stored while all other parts will be sold for cheap!  If anyone is interested in some parts, I created a thread in the Buick - buy and sell forum.  Just click here.20201108_155534.jpg.82b8e3a8aaf2426169bdc3ea70e8cbaf.jpg

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Posted (edited)

Now that I am done with the parts car, it's back to the business with my main car.

 

Next order of business was removing the hood springs shown here.20210624_180454.jpg.6f7492edf0a920baa8ddd46b082f9bcd.jpgFirst thing you need to do is to secure the hood as shown.  I used a 2x4 to hold it open.20210624_180509.jpg.120f330217b7d358cb8fed5c701478c9.jpg I don't have any special tools to remove these springs.  I just had to be resourceful with what I had.  Both my Daddy and Grandaddy both would say, "More than one way to skin a cat".  I used a light weight chain, a pole from my old carport and a double sided locking chain loop.  Here's a picture of how I set it up.20210624_180536.jpg.ba17e042ede12c8e39c2632991eb43bc.jpgLock the chain loop at bottom of spring.  Make a loop out of the chain and lock it to bottom end of chain loop.  Stick something rigid through the chain loop and rest one end of it under the frame to create a lever.  Rest the other end of the lever against the tire for stability.  Use your body weight and gently push down on the lever with your foot.20210624_180706.jpg.1d8383dac8cdc52f5e085689e84e12f7.jpgOnce the spring's hook clears the body of the car, slowly lift your foot back up and your spring should be free.  Repeat these steps on other side.  Here's a shot of the site after removal.20210624_181010.jpg.83fd3f8c1ef304600babf5dc62406c0d.jpgA shot of the hood springs after removal.20210624_181235.jpg.88651bbcd69bc60dd9998843f13cdf95.jpgOverall, this was an easy task.

 

Next, I removed the hood as shown.20210624_182354.jpg.1b2e00525df810b69c72290da198dcab.jpgThe hood is pretty heavy and I was removing it by myself.  So, I placed a couple of 2x4's under the hood and rested them on the body and the front end of the frame, creating a slope.  Keep in mind that the 2x4 holding the hood up is still in place.20210624_182405.jpg.7661bc8eab5b79ae1741d08f57d9f455.jpgNext, remove the 3 bolts shown here (both sides).20210624_182414.jpg.e73abd034a1e4e6f39493527de3fa85f.jpgOnce removed, you can set the ends of the hood on the sloped 2x4's as shown.20210624_182909.jpg.7d4b517e9c60f47aff0adb2958493791.jpgYou can now remove the 2x4 that was holding the hood open and lay the hood down on the sloping 2x4's as shown.20210624_183148.jpg.0da50053dccf541a24541631ea9fae27.jpgYou can now gently slide the hood down the set of 2x4's.  You will probably need to keep shifting the hood hinges forward to clear obstructions.20210624_182901.jpg.2aca0fdb2c28a0bec9e2ea3b27819d22.jpgOnce the hood is close to the ground, stand the hood up on the 2x4's and walk it down the rest of the way until the hood clears the 2x4's.  Hood is removed.  Showing the site after removal.20210624_184103.jpg.aa3c15d6a8b0caf6e4911a29a607b14c.jpgShowing the hood after removal.20210624_184109.jpg.d2f95a2902b2195de8d3b472e7a2b4df.jpgOverall, this was an easy task.

Edited by Kosage Chavis (see edit history)
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This time, I removed the steering wheel as shown.20210625_164237.jpg.6bc6f1684f5f7f35516a15009fbc10d8.jpgI took the center nut and screwed it back down about 2 or 3 threads.20210625_164255.jpg.b5bc09be8e1bbce2c112d020a520c307.jpgI then used a steering wheel puller in conjunction with a socket as shown to avoid damaging the grounding button for the horn.20210625_165107.jpg.9c1abb9a661d9393ecb01a209346c237.jpgI sprayed a little WD-40 into the splines to help.  Slowly tighten the puller.  The steering wheel will either slide off or snap off.  Showing the site after removal.20210625_170717.jpg.6ba4e9d5883f28b6dcb7f58f879d2f73.jpgShowing the steering wheel after removal.20210625_170721.jpg.bb31635d60873d40f0943ee4c5105465.jpgOverall, this was an easy task.

 

Next, I removed the item shown here.  I don't know the proper name of it.  So, I will just call it the steering column seal and firewall vent assembly.20210625_172207.jpg.810a10e4571e34f8f66ce048b3fb124e.jpgRemove 3 nuts along the curved brace below the steering column penetration.20210625_172238.jpg.44abc94ec379291b41e31c8acca8b11e.jpgRemove the curved brace.  You will then remove the 2 screws shown here on either side of the column.20210625_172642.jpg.2ee6f89876faa3c05ff077abfbf90dda.jpgYou can now carefully pry the seal and vent off of the firewall until separated.20210625_172852.jpg.817bd54983f6d567be96d56a23562395.jpgShowing the site after removal.20210625_173049.jpg.c0a3bf4cbf253a817fa1e10d06002e5f.jpgShowing the vent and seal assembly after remova.20210625_173429.jpg.9b6786a476f9776260e40d7257c360cf.jpgOverall, this was an easy task.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Removing the steering column here, as shown.20210628_182425.jpg.bdd97c3ddc241524e4ac67418e0db2f2.jpgLoosen the clamp bolt shown here.20210628_182444.jpg.1c2939c4ff88c2877a4abede9dadbe0c.jpgGo back inside the car and remove the screws that holds down the steering  column rubber seal at the firewall.  Next, simultaneously pull back on the steering column while firmly wiggling it out of the socket.  Take your time.  Once you pull it off the socket, turn the steering column counterclockwise until the shifting arm clears the firewall opening.20210628_183036.jpg.122457fbd1e6272dbdcca31b56154e71.jpgNow, you can pull it out.  You will also remove 2 different steering column seals with the steering column itself.  Showing the site of removal.20210628_183318.jpg.248589034e53ca02527323d282126a8c.jpgShowing the steering column after removal.20210628_183348.jpg.068cde981e3187088a3af1b4e6bf5e7e.jpgOverall, this was an easy task.

 

Onto the power steering gear, as shown.20210630_170959.jpg.293ab44c09a2aaba5e23bfd716b15568.jpgRemove the pitman arm nut shown here.20210630_171446.jpg.77f27028994b378653236da662600f73.jpgA pitman arm removal tool is necessary for this.20210630_174022.jpg.c2fa1193ec101c593cb8031385e1ffc6.jpgMy tool wouldn't fit, so I had to hammer the tool into place until centered.  Tighten the tool until pitman arm pops or slides off the spline.20210630_174428.jpg.c4e36a23194be1938f22c06c7a958d5f.jpgNow, remove the 4 bolts shown here.20210630_175534.jpg.5896cd527bffd405921259119986f640.jpgThese bolts hold down 2 pairs of clamps on the opposite side.  While removing the 4th bolt, hold the power steering gear in place so that it doesn't fall off of the frame to prevent injury and/or damage.  Once both clamps and bolts have been removed, pick up the power steering gear off the frame.  Showing the site after removal.20210630_181302.jpg.ddc07ce65f16b7d128f447b880ea6843.jpgShowing the power steering gear after removal.20210630_181307.jpg.532780295b4c6ee7fb835c6362878225.jpgOverall, this was an easy task.  Just take note that this part has a decent amount of weight on it to be prepared.

Edited by Kosage Chavis (see edit history)
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