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1 hour ago, whitewatersky said:

loving this thread - thanks for sharing.

it'll be handy for reference ... if I ever get my build going again...

 

Thank u…

no problem…if u are anywhere near me, I am more than willing to come help however I can (sorry, I can’t see your full profile from my phone)

 

heres a link to a better build haha. I found this link posted on the forum days ago by Schmiddy & I’m LOVING it haha. Makes me feel like erasing my work & starting over by following Schmiddy’s lead haha

 

http://riviera65.com/

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I added more sound deadener. This time I covered the doors with it.

 

I never mentioned what product I used. This car is so big that I had to buy sound deadener 3 times & ended up with 3 different products. End result, I finally found a good product on amazon. Its actually thicker than the expensive DynaMat stuff but at less than half of the price.

 

Apparently, the little dimples on the foil are to be rolled out smooth to ensure proper adhesion. I did not do that. Looks like I have to go back & get after that 

 

Noico 80 mil 36 sqft car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URUIKAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_yACwCb4A41SQ1

 

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Cruising my car around is waaay cool. But its much cooler rolling with some tunes right? Yup...I pulled the trigger & installed some tunes. The plan was to keep it basic with the exception of not using a head unit...It kinda morphed from there & I went overboard. 

 

Since my center console probably wont see the light of day anytime soon, I used one of those Bluetooth gadgets to stream music off of my phone...no need for a head unit

 

This multi-channel EQ allows for the refinement of sound thru my speakers that a head unit would’ve accomplished. Plus it allows for an aux cord to use my iPod. Love that!! My temp mounting locations SUCKS! I will be relocating that...

 

Power provided by a JL Audio 900w amp...

 

Top of the line 3-way Infinity 6x9’s were used for the rear deck. I ordered a 6x9 subwoofer that a member here recommended. It was to be mounted in the factory location between the two rear seats. The 3-way Infinity’s 6x9’s over powered that 6x9 sub. So I decided to use the same sub I am running in my truck...a shallow mount 10” Pioneer sub/enclosure combo

 

For front speakers I was excited to find two 3.5” two-way speakers that Classic Autosound sells attached to a mounting plate made to fit the factory speaker grill of my 65.

 

yes...a bit more than I had originally planned...but it definitely sounds fringin AWESWOME!! Now I gotta attack the trunk restoration & add sound deadener in there too...never ending saga haha

 

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I recently sent my entire gauge cluster (including plastic surround) off to get work done. I used a company near my work called North Hollywood Speedometer & Clock Co. I was very happy with the result. I had them overhaul my speedo, reset my odometer to current mileage on rebuilt engine, repaint all orange needles, clean/test all circuit board runs, replace burned out bulbs, paint scratched up clock bezel & polish all lens. I asked about converting my clock. But the price seemed high especially after reading the recent clock conversion thread. 

 

Once they returned it, the gauges looked amazing which made the plastic surround look like garbage. In my normal “work backwards” fashion haha, I took the gauges back out & proceded to attack the renewal of my plastic gauge cluster surround. All the aluminum like decorative sticker inserts looked purple from the sun beating on them? Or just the heat?

 

I did not want to lose the thin 1/8” aluminum decorative stripe on these inserts. I tried to find 1/8” masking tape & couldn’t find it. So I used 1/8” pinstripping tape. It worked fine.

 

The paint process kinda sucked tho. Everything I read & advice I was given all said I gotta use adhesion promoter to paint plastic. So I did...it didn’t lay nicely...I hated the finish. Sanded it all smooth & just used paint. It came out BITCHEN!!

 

Check out all the mounting holes that are broken. I ordered a two part epoxy from SEM products to restore these tabs. These little tabs are not as important to fix as the main mounting tabs that I plan to fix on my center console. I also have the task of fixing the plastic mounting tab that holds my glove box door hinge. I will practice on the little stuff first. I might start a separate thread on that repair. Didn’t see anything when I tried the search function. 

 

Other than tab repair, I thought I was done renewing my cluster surround. Then I discovered Schmiddy’s website. Wow! Good job Schmiddy!! Now I gotta steal a couple ideas he shared haha. One idea being the turn signal & high beam indicator repair. Love that! I will also try his LED bulb idea & his technique of using thin gauge metal to repair the larger tabs on my center console. Incorporating thin gauge metal like he did may work wonders on my glove box door hinge mount. 

 

BEFORE/AFTER

 

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BEFORE/AFTER

 

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1/8” PINSTRIPE TAPE IN PLACE BEFORE PAINT

 

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EDIT: I had to squeeze this in here. Schmiddy made me do it haha. U can see my turn signal indicator wasn’t in bad condition. I simple touched it up with a hobby brush. Mine didn’t come apart quite like Schmiddys did in his pix

 

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Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)
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On 2/4/2019 at 11:17 AM, RockinRiviDad said:

 

Thank u…

no problem…if u are anywhere near me, I am more than willing to come help however I can (sorry, I can’t see your full profile from my phone)

 

heres a link to a better build haha. I found this link posted on the forum days ago by Schmiddy & I’m LOVING it haha. Makes me feel like erasing my work & starting over by following Schmiddy’s lead haha

 

http://riviera65.com/

hey man, I'd sure appreciate the help, but I'm in Australia...

I'm in LA every year or 2

i'll hafta check your ride in person if ever up Ventura way !

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On 2/6/2019 at 5:02 PM, 65VerdeGS said:

Your dash work looks awesome - keep your updates coming!

 

On 2/7/2019 at 2:13 PM, Seafoam65 said:

your hair is on fire again.........and in southern California that could be a dangerous thing!

 

On 2/7/2019 at 5:25 PM, whitewatersky said:

I'd sure appreciate the help, but I'm in Australia...

I'm in LA every year or 2

i'll hafta check your ride in person if ever up Ventura way !

 

Thx for the feedback fella’s. Even tho this build isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, it’s kinda nice to know some folks are enjoying my journey haha

 

@ whitewater, hit me up when your in town. Burgers, beers & burnouts haha

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I have never sent anything out to get chromed before. I have no clue what it takes to get them straight. I’ll have to look up some videos to check out the process. From what I’m told, it sounds interesting. 

 

Apparently, due to the thickness of the metal, they use some sort of power hammer to take out dents. In areas that are not accessible (like behind a mounting bracket) they simple cut the bracket, bang out the dent & reweld the bracket. In the case of my front bumper, the bracket was rewelded incorrectly…I could not get my square head mounting dammit!!

 

Chrome shop was gonna send out his mobile guy. But I told him I would give it a shot. I busted out my trusty ole HF die grinder & wha-lah!!

 

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One piece of advise I was given was to clean & paint the backside of the bumpers when they come home. I was told chrome shops don’t really pay much attention to the backside.

 

Either this shop does great work, I simply got lucky or this was part of the triple plate cost I paid for??

 

Whichever it is, the backside of these bumpers look frigin awesome too, compared to what they looked like before. 

 

U can clearly see how many dents this bumpers had in the before pic. The front wasn’t any better. 

 

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3 hours ago, 65VerdeGS said:

Those bumpers look awesome!

 

Dare we ask what it cost for the triple-plating job?  Was the rear more $ than the front?

 

Keep the updates coming - nice inspiration for the rest of us to get our rides in shape for spring!

 

 

Thank u…

 

I’m sure “shopping around” would have rendered a cheaper outcome. But I liked the examples this shop produced. Plus, I was stalling out on my forward momentum…so I pulled the trigger at the cost of…make sure your sitting down…don’t want u to fall & hit your head…you’ve been warned haha…$1100 😳 haha

 

Rear was $600…I only had the one main section of the front bumper done for $400…the two left & right pieces that sit to either side of rear license plate were $50 each. 

 

I am trying…my updates & comments like yours help me keep going. Again, it’s nice to know a few guys like the direction I’m heading.

Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)
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58 minutes ago, jsgun said:

That's surprisingly cheap, I was expecting around $2500 and higher. One reason I bought my 64, was that the bumpers had been rechromed, and very well.

 

Cheap? Really? Wow! Ok…now I don’t feel so bad…cool. Thx. U made my day haha

 

They do have a couple of blemishes tho. Nothing I’m crying about. They turned out better than I expected. 

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7 hours ago, RockinRiviDad said:

 

Cheap? Really? Wow! Ok…now I don’t feel so bad…cool. Thx. U made my day haha

 

They do have a couple of blemishes tho. Nothing I’m crying about. They turned out better than I expected. 

 I've heard of guys spending 5K+ getting 50's era bumpers done. Chrome can get crazy expensive, especially in CA it seems. Some guys take their stuff to mexico boarder towns to get it plated because it's considerably cheaper.

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Bumpers  are always pain because of the shipping expense . I had front and rear bumpers done in Houston for my 65 -  $2000 for all  BUT I didn't have to ship them either way . If you think chrome is expensive , try getting stainless polished and cleaned up ! They charge by the inch ! 

Tried to do some myself - big mistake . Looked worse than when I started . It's a real art that requires lots of patience and expertise if you want quality .

KReed

ROA 14549

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On 2/16/2019 at 6:54 PM, kreed said:

shipping expense

BUT I didn't have to ship them either way

try getting stainless polished and cleaned up ! They charge by the inch ! 

Tried to do some myself - big mistake. Looked worse than when I started . It's a real art that requires lots of patience and expertise if you want quality .

 

I didn’t have to ship mine out either. But now that I cruised my car in the sunlight with the new bumpers & I can see blems in the chrome. Best discription I can give is that it looks “foggy”…they may have to redo them

 

sorry to hear about your stainless. I must've had beginners luck when I tried mine. I didn’t know what I was doing. But I borrowed this bitchen polisher & two different rouges (white & green). It turns out I didn’t need the white rouge. After all, my stainless came out way better than what is was when I started. 

 

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On 2/14/2019 at 11:08 PM, RockinRiviDad said:

don’t want u to fall & hit your head…you’ve been warned haha…$1100 😳 haha

Hi Dave,

 

Thanks for sharing what you paid for chroming.  As others have said, you got a pretty good deal.  You say some of your new chrome looks a bit 'foggy' - well I've seen that before and wonder what it means.  You'll probably find the fogginess or blueish cast is most visible under artificial light.  I had a similar problem on another car I had chroming done on. 

 

Some things in the car hobby have become very expensive over the years.  Probably because fewer outfits are doing certain things (i.e. less competition = higher costs) and also increasingly stringent environmental regulation is biting into what folks used to get away with doing in the old days.

 

Chrome bumpers went obsolete at least 30 years ago , other than on trucks and commercial vehicles.  That's why there's less places now that do chroming.

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3 hours ago, 65VerdeGS said:

 

Hi Dave,

 

Thanks for sharing what you paid for chroming.  As others have said, you got a pretty good deal.  You say some of your new chrome looks a bit 'foggy' - well I've seen that before and wonder what it means.  You'll probably find the fogginess or blueish cast is most visible under artificial light.  I had a similar problem on another car I had chroming done on. 

 

Hello,

Funny u mention “artificial light” cuz I first noticed the foggy area while in the garage before installing bumpers. I told myself “it’s gotta be my fluorescent lights”. Once installed I went for a cruise & foggy area can be seen only in direct sunlight. Any kind of shade or no direct sunlight & u would call me crazy, foggy area disappears. 

 

I stopped at bodyshop (middle man for chrome shop) yesterday to show off my car. I explained I never had anything chromed before & asked if the foggy area was a concern? He said yes. He tried to polish it out with no luck & said they need to be redone. I’m glad he said that. I was just gonna live with it with hopes that it wouldn’t get worse. 

 

Keep u guys posted 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/4/2019 at 1:17 AM, RockinRiviDad said:

 

Thank u…

no problem…if u are anywhere near me, I am more than willing to come help however I can (sorry, I can’t see your full profile from my phone)

 

heres a link to a better build haha. I found this link posted on the forum days ago by Schmiddy & I’m LOVING it haha. Makes me feel like erasing my work & starting over by following Schmiddy’s lead haha

 

http://riviera65.com/


I just followed your build Dave... damn, and you say mine is better??? I'm extremely impressed about your work, a lot looks way better than I did and if I could go back, I would do a few things like you did!
Of course I had some "déja-vus" 'cos there is no other way to do it like we both did and I like the photos and the way you do this whole resto in a very passionate way - great work mate and thank you so much for having mention me and my work, I do very appreciate and I'm very, very happy that I could give some inspiration and little hints.

It's all about passion, man, I will keep an eye on you and your amazing '65 Riv 🏆 - I'm already in love with it Dave! 😍
Cya 

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10 hours ago, psychostang said:

Excellent.  Any other fitment issues?  How much did they cost?  Sanderson, right?


Thank u. Yes…Sanderson Headers
 

I was warned about installing headers with engine in the car. They are right…obviously, doable…but huge PITA. I purchased from Russ Martin & got some Install tips from his son Matt & a Facebook write-up. Not sure how they do it but it’s cheaper to buy these thru the Martin’s than from Sanderson. Ceramic coated version $495 + tax + s/h. Uncoated/raw is cheaper
 

Today was my first day driving her with the headers. 100+ mile cruise, including the Rose Parade Route (super cool) & I did notice better performance. I cruise with guys who like to drive fast & I like to keep up 😬. I am happy I switched. 
 

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Only fitment issue I noticed was found on the passenger side. I didn’t notice if there was any play in header placement when I had the mounting bolts in finger tight. I may have been able to push the header up a bit before tightening down for a bit more clearance. Header hits passenger upper control arm (UCA). Hard to get good pic. There’s about a 1/4” gap between UCA & header. When I rev engine hard, engine torques & touches corner of UCA. Maybe switching to poly motor mounts OR filing down that UCA corner OR undoing MANY steps with hopes to reposition header up a bit more IF there is any play…which route will I take…stay tuned 🤣 
 

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ONLY NEED FOUR LINKS OF CHAIN.

Bob, Turbinator take a pic of your left motor mount to show them how I installed yours.  Paint it black & you won't even see it.   Looks a heck of a lot better than the torque limiting cables wrapped around the upper left control arm.

When I bought my '64 Riv. new I was 18yo. For the day & time it was pretty fast & I raced it on a pretty much daily basis. I thought I may have a problem using slicks.  You know the famous "NailHead" torque on occasion it would pull the left front which I have pics & video of.  Ed, you still have that pic as your screen saver???     Post it for ALL to see.   BUT I learned very quickly how easy the L/mount would break way back when.

After quite a few mounts I finally figured out a way  to secure the mount.  Haven't broken one since.

 

Tom T.

 

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Yeah Ed that pic was taken at Cecil County in Maryland.  I have a better one from Quaker in Ohio that you can barely make out the front left off the ground & the slicks wrinkle with 30pds. of air in them because of the amount of weight.  Also have a few from Attco Dragway in New Jersey & Lebanon Valley in upstate N.Y.  Dover  Dragway in Wingdale N.Y  Also have a video from English Town in New Jersey.  You can see the light turn green & the left tire starts to turn then stops then turns again. Definitely off the ground.  We're not taking a foot or six inches, BUT for over a 4000+ pd. car, even one inch is I think, is saying something for a car that's for the most part stock isn't two bad.

IF I knew how to post them I would.

 

Tom T.

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1 hour ago, telriv said:

Yeah Ed that pic was taken at Cecil County in Maryland.  I have a better one from Quaker in Ohio that you can barely make out the front left off the ground & the slicks wrinkle with 30pds. of air in them because of the amount of weight.  Also have a few from Attco Dragway in New Jersey & Lebanon Valley in upstate N.Y.  Dover  Dragway in Wingdale N.Y  Also have a video from English Town in New Jersey.  You can see the light turn green & the left tire starts to turn then stops then turns again. Definitely off the ground.  We're not taking a foot or six inches, BUT for over a 4000+ pd. car, even one inch is I think, is saying something for a car that's for the most part stock isn't two bad.

IF I knew how to post them I would.

 

Tom T.

Tom,

 

  If you can manage to scan and email them to me I will post them for you

 

Tom M

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