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Here is my wheels & tires mounted & ready to roll. I'm not sure I chose the right sidewall profile…235/55r 18's. I did want to fill in the wheel wells but my first impression of my tire selection was that they are too big. My buddy said the tires will take on a whole new look once the body is on.

I don't like skinny rubber band tires but I wanted "some" meat for tires. Combined with my Bilstein's, new rubber bushings all around, Gran Sport springs & meaty tires that should be a recipe for a comfortable ride.

If I haven't mentioned (don't shoot me), I have a Hot Rod theme playing out in my head during this build. If anything I can always multiple my burn outs to get these tires down to the right size lol

Side note: is it just me or do these wheels dwarf my disk brake rotors? :( live & learn

image_zps2254841f.jpg

That"s what I'm talking about! Awesome!!!

Tim

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Dave,

exhaust looks good. Just wondering, how you will bee able to get a good 360* weld around them if you have the body on? Also do you have power windows? If yes , its real easy to roll them up and down with a battery and wire leads. You dont need to do the drill motor thing.

Suerte,

arnulfo

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Dave,

Also do you have power windows? If yes , its real easy to roll them up and down with a battery and wire leads. You dont need to do the drill motor thing.

Suerte,

arnulfo

Especially on a first generation car with the door skins off. I've replaced one regulator, one motor, and added electric vent windows to my car. I've been using the existing switches and battery in place to do everything (doing it this way, I also identified one bad switch.) I've taken the motors off, removed the gear, and cleaned off all of the old caked grease. On the work bench, I re-lube them and then use the 18 volt battery from my cordless drill to spin the motors. Ground the case to the - side of the battery, then use a jumper wire from the + side of the battery to each of the two terminals on the motor. One terminal is 'up' and the other terminal is 'down'. I've never tried it with a 12V cordless tool battery, but 18 volts really makes them spin fast and work freely.

Ed

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Snake said:
Nice pakage tray, how can I get one!

 

Thanks Greg, call me for details. The one I have is not as nice as the repros available thru the back of the Riview. But I can't complain, the price was great & its in much better shape than my stock one. This one was a failed attempt which ended up getting kicked around the guys shop for years & its still nicer than mine. I plan on adding some fiberglass to the mounting edge which wasn't finished & then wrap it with vinyl like my stock one.

 

My buddy bought two of these trays, skim coated one, sprayed it with primer then painted it black & it looks sharp. A side by side comparison of the actual finished product that sells for $150 & this one I have is night & day. PM me for those pix if you are interested.

 

Kaber said:
That"s what I'm talking about! Awesome!!!

Tim

 

Thanks Tim

 

arnulfo de l.a. said:
Dave,

exhaust looks good. Just wondering, how you will bee able to get a good 360* weld around them if you have the body on? Also do you have power windows? If yes , its real easy to roll them up and down with a battery and wire leads. You dont need to do the drill motor thing.

Suerte,

arnulfo

 

Arnulfo, thank you & good question. But its actually an easy task. All the exhaust hangers are bolted to my frame. 10 minutes the whole system can be sitting on the ground. I used all stainless steel hardware so I'm sure rust won't be an issue for many years to come. The only things that will be welded in are the tailpipes to the mufflers & the resonator elimination pipe forward of where it bolts to the "over the axle" pipe.

 

I do have power windows & excuse me if I misled you. I will be trying the drill "battery" with wire leads to get the windows down. I will call you or Ed for direction on that when the time comes, thank again.

 

RivNut said:
I've added electric vent windows to my car. I've been using the existing switches and battery in place to do everything (doing it this way, I also identified one bad switch.) I've taken the motors off, removed the gear, and cleaned off all of the old caked grease. On the work bench, I re-lube them and then use the 18 volt battery from my cordless drill to spin the motors. Ground the case to the - side of the battery, then use a jumper wire from the + side of the battery to each of the two terminals on the motor. One terminal is 'up' and the other terminal is 'down'. I've never tried it with a 12V cordless tool battery, but 18 volts really makes them spin fast and work freely.

Ed

 

aahh, adding power vent windows would be a nice touch...I don't have those. I think Arnulfo did that too.

 

I'm so anal-retentive I will prob do as u did & clean everything up too. I will try the 12v battery & let you know. If that doesn't work I have a 19.2v battery too. I am a little confused about what u said on "grounding the case to the side of the battery"??? I will PM you about that, thank you

Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)
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I am a little confused about what u said on "grounding the case to the side of the battery"??? I will PM you about that, thank you

There are two wires running to each motor. One is the "up" wire, one is the "down" wire. There is no ground wire on the motor. It grounds through the case which is mounted to the body and grounded through the body, ergo if it's not mounted in the car, it has no ground. You have to create the ground circuit by connecting a wire to the case of the motor.

Ed

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Forgot to post this new purchase.

 

Fueled by a recent thread about dash pads I decided to gather more info via PM & I was sold.…thx for the help Pete.

 

This ABS dash cover is from Dastop in Reno & I think it got here in 2 days. Looks great…it's plastic but I laid it across the dash in my gutted 65 & it looks good. Can't wait to install it…

here is the link if u want to purchase your own

 

http://www.dashtop.com/index.php?search%5Bterms%5D=2064

 

C30336BB-82EA-40C7-8EC6-ED92FF0F8EEB.jpeg.cdf2aa8bbb2122be16719092fd72f739.jpeg

 

63474D70-9952-4ECE-8F80-38F4F83BF6F5.jpeg.245fef3c65df21f704e445cfc55b50a2.jpeg

 

Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)
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Here is my wheels & tires mounted & ready to roll. I'm not sure I chose the right sidewall profile…235/55r 18's. I did want to fill in the wheel wells but my first impression of my tire selection was that they are too big. My buddy said the tires will take on a whole new look once the body is on.

I would tend to agree with your friend, David. Until all things are in their place, they may appear exaggerated in some way. I've had this happen many times with my own projects.

Steve

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Forgot to post this new purchase too. Fueled by a recent thread about dash pads I decided to gather more info via PM & I was sold.…thx for the pix Pete.

This ABS dash cover is from Dastop in Reno & I think it got here in 2 days. Looks great…it's plastic but I laid it across the dash in my gutted 65 & it looks good. Can't wait to install it…

image_zps218c0032.jpg

image_zps1290b6e1.jpg

Have you test fitted it to see if you have enough clearance to possible add vinyl over it?

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If I were you, I would dye it to the color you want. The original covering was what is called "haircell" grain vinyl. Hopefully this reproduction was molded as haircell to begin with so it will look correct. Haircell is difficult to find as yard goods.

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RivNut said:
Very encouraging. Let us know how the speaker grill fits and how well it fits in general.

Ed

 

Ed, So I was gonna reply with "sorry, but its gonna be a while before I get to fit my dash top"

 

But I like the look of this dash top so much that I spent a little time on it this morning to post a better reply. This dash top was made very well & has a very very very good right over my old dash fit. My original dash has large cracks in the brittle vinyl that have bowed upward. I am pretty sure I don't need to but I may grind down some of the high edges before final install.

 

The speaker grill cut-out is "almost" perfect...I am impressed. The dash top adds a noticeable 1/8 " or 1/16" height only noticeable around the speaker grill due to the grill now having a slight sunken look. I think a simple washer between the grill & dash mounting holes will solve that problem. I may also take the two speaker grill corners, furthest from the windshield, to my grinding wheel to give them more of an inward taper. Those corners on the dash top seem to be the tightest fit. Maybe I can try bending the vinyl with a little heat from the wife's $120 hair dryer...for that price the hair dryer better have multiple uses right haha

 

Jan_Zverina said:
Very cool project and I'm following it with great interest! May the wind be at your back and ample funds in your bank account (or wherever you stash them!)

 

Thank you Jan. My wife always talks about the wind coming from my backside too haha

 

Ample funds? No. But I do have an empty piggy bank here & I am accepting any & all donations towards the cause haha

 

slosteve said:
I would tend to agree with your friend, David. Until all things are in their place, they may appear exaggerated in some way. I've had this happen many times with my own projects.

Steve

 

 

Steve, I am sure you are right. This sickness of mine kind of gets the best of me sometimes

 

devildog93 said:
I think 235/55 r 18s will be almost stock size. http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp That was a link someone on the forums threw out there. You should be able to do a side by side comparison with stock wheels and tires and what you have.

 

Jeff, funny that u posted that link. That link & tire reference books at the wheel shop were tools I used to decide on tires. The side by side comparison was almost perfect. The new wheel/tire combo is actually about 1/4-1/2 taller. But that might only be from the new tire treads versus the old worn tire treads. The concern I am having is that I am now sitting 2" lower.

 

Only time will tell if I chose correctly.

 

Gseago said:
Have you test fitted it to see if you have enough clearance to possible add vinyl over it?

 

I did test fit it. But with the windshield & A post trim out I will not know if I can wrap it. I do like that my original one was wrapped but I am not sure if I will wrap this one. It looks that good that I may keep it just the way it is.

 

RivNut said:
If I were you, I would dye it to the color you want. The original covering was what is called "haircell" grain vinyl. Hopefully this reproduction was molded as haircell to begin with so it will look correct. Haircell is difficult to find as yard goods.

 

Ed, not sure who you are directing this to. But I will not be dying mine. My interior is all black so its already the color I need. It does have a nice grain feel/look molded into the entire surface. Not sure if it will show but let me know if you'd like a close-up pic of the surface texture.

Edited by RockinRiviDad
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Ed, not sure who you are directing this to. But I will not be dying mine. My interior is all black so its already the color I need. It does have a nice grain feel/look molded into the entire surface. Not sure if it will show but let me know if you'd like a close-up pic of the surface texture.

I was replying to Gerald's post #174.

Ed

Edited by MrEarl
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  • 2 weeks later...

David, wow you are working your magic on your 65. Looking good dude. As Ed made you the offer to go to Kansas. How about you make a shorter trip to Long beach and work some magic on my 64. Heck bring your pocketbook too if you don't mind :P

But seriously your build is looking sharp.

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D, thank you...I appreciate the kind words. I have no problem going anywhere to help a fellow forum brother. I am still in the learning stage myself so be warned "results may vary" lol...so consider yourself warned lol

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  • 2 months later...

In my effort to keep a log of all my progress in one place, here is the link to my "401 Nailhead Break-in Woes" thread & a short video of my Nailhead start-out...

 

My valve guides were probably set to tight & that is what I am guessing was the recipe for destruction

 

62FA2BA8-3E9D-42AB-ACAC-822AB9B2860B.jpeg.88556f26212429cce9f77dd6132f70f0.jpeg

 

 

 

Once my engine came home from the machine shop 2 years ago, I saw lots of pix of painted fins on Nailheads. I really liked the look but I was far too lazy to take the intake manifold off to get to my valley pan.

 

I believe all things happen for a reason. This was probably not the reason why my engine broke BUT I decided to paint between all my fins now that I was forced to disassemble the engine.

 

56908034-2C37-4266-9FF8-5F77E668DAE3.jpeg.6d1caf06c5709fa52187f26dc2c614c1.jpeg

 

3139C06C-6F9C-48DA-85CB-DD10FCB80D26.jpeg

 

E27F5683-07BA-4BDB-8142-4F20767EF3BA.jpeg

 

Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)
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I like the painted fins look a lot. Always good to bang ideas around and see what other guys are doing before i get to it. I'm not sure even what valve covers i'm going to end up with yet, but i have a while before i get back to the engine compartment. I am leaning towards the t/a roller rockers that require the taller valve covers at the moment, but that is just one idea out of 5 i have bouncing around before i get there.

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I'm not sure even what valve covers i'm going to end up with yet, I am leaning towards the t/a roller rockers that require the taller valve covers at the moment, but that is just one idea out of 5 i have bouncing around before i get there.

I PM'd DD93 (name?) about some tech posts that I've read on the V8Buick website. If you're considering a similar upgrade to roller rockers, you might want to go over there and search out some threads on the subject of roller rockers. From the info that I've gathered unless TA has made some changes to their roller rockers, they to not fit under the OE style Buick finned aluminum valve covers. This information is based solely on what others have experienced; I have no personal information. But it's probably worth checking out first hand if you might be considering roller rockers. Tom Telesco makes roller rockers as well that do fit under the OE finned aluminum covers. Not trying to sway anyone, just reporting some facts as I know them.

If anyone is interested, I can get Tom's contact info for you.

Ed

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Ed, i'm not quite ready to pull the trigger on roller rockers just yet. I am shooting for December for my mechanical shakedown and would like to pull and rebuild the transmission in that month. At the same time i figure it would be a good idea to go ahead and do any engine work at that time. The mechanic in me wants to blow it apart and at least give it an overhaul, but i have a couple things slowing my roll on it. #1, it runs pretty damn good as is. #2, if i blow it up the chances of my ocd kicking in and taking it to a full rebuild would be pretty high. It does not smoke or knock and has good power as it stands, although it leaks and drips transmission fluid.

Again, not trying to hijack the thread, i will update mine with a few of the things i have done in the last couple of weeks with pics later today. I love that guys post their build threads, i just wish i had the commitment to blow it all the way up like you guys have done going frame-off. Unfortunately, we have a ford falcon and a mustang we are playing with that are already taking up half the shop with engine/trans swaps, so doing a 100% tear-down was not in the cards for mine at this time. I will pull it off and eventually remove every bit of rust that has infected the car at some point because it has gotten personal, just not this year.

Tom's rockers definitely seem like the way to go without changing the engine bay fit or the mechanical operation, i just wonder about availability and how long a wait i will have upon ordering them. It seems to be like ordering specialty barrels for firearms. You get on the list and maybe you get them 8 months down the road...or at least that is how i am reading the ongoing thread at the buick v8 forums.

On a sidenote, i am really starting to get converted off of our original power plants. I love the idea of the nailhead, but it just seems like they got cut short and they went another direction with the 430/455 line. Every so often we turn up a good deal on a buick 455 or perhaps something newer. With all the custom parts required for the nailhead engines, from pistons to rockers, i am really starting to get annoyed. I love the look of the car and i love the powerplant currently, but i may build something else for a little drivetrain insurance later on down the road that i can actually get parts for without having to be part of a custom run.

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Side note: is it just me or do these wheels dwarf my disk brake rotors? :( live & learn

image_zps2254841f.jpg

Hello David,

can you please let me know, what brand and type the disc brakes are.

Any link to the manufactures homepage would be nice.

I'm wondering, if 15" wheels would fit on it, probably better then on drum brakes.

I have already problems with the big drum brake outer fin diameter interfere with most available wheels.

Thanks,

Frank

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Frank, the disc brake kit I bought was a complete kit from my local hot rod shop. It's basically a full kit with over-the-counter parts just like you would build on your own if you bought the Scarbird adaptors. Do a search on this forum, you will find lots of info.

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I finally got her running nicely & thought I would post a video clip of the exhaust.

 

I originally ordered a Waldron's Mild Imposter muffler, 2-1/4" exhaust system minus both resonators from a company I DO NOT recommend. The Mild Imposter arrived damaged so Waldron's sent me a replacement.

 

Unfortunately, I received the Imposter in place of the Mild Imposter. Ruth @ Waldron's explained that they would swap it out if I was unhappy with the sound. It sounds good to me, I thought it was gonna be much louder. The true test will be to see if I get any drone in the cab once I mount the body. As u can see, it will be a while before that happens lol

 

 

Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)
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Arnulfo, you are right. Unfortunately, for me this wasn't the path I had envisioned for this Riv. My plan was to make a functional driver & work on it at the same time. Its looking more & more like a mild custom show car. I hope this doesn't deter me from driving it everywhere I go in fear of ruining it. Otherwise I would rather sell it than let it sit in the garage hidden from the whole.

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Looks great David, and yes you did more than a mild custom. BTW I just acquired some 1964 rear lower window toward the package tray inside trim. I think this looks better than the 65 trim( too wide on the sail panels) going to have it chromed to match all the inside trim and custom modded 65 thunderbird rear seat trim. Still looking for a fiberglass package tray though.

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Ed , can you direct me to where you saw this classified

Volume 30, #6, Nov/Dec 2014. Page 29, center column. 2nd full ad. 1963-65 Rear package tray Lee Sulius, Lompoc, CA

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can you direct me to where you saw this classified

Greg, that's the same guy & number I directed u to. Apparently, I bought his last one. He no longer is providing this service. He didn't even know his ad was still in the Riview.

David

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