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Ok fellas, here are the steps I have taken to resolve my body rot issue on the driver side floorboard. Not a big area but it looks a little bigger than Chris' patch (wish my first panel was smaller and flatter like his haha)

 

1) I marked a line right over the rust as a guide where I wanted to follow with my wire wheel. To clean the area I used my 4-1/2" angle grinder with a cup wire wheel on it (I've done a lot with these wheels).

 

2) I marked my line again on the clean area to follow with my cut off wheel attached to the same angle grinder.

 

3) I made a cardboard template of the hole to aide in making a patch panel out of scrap metal my friend gave me. 

 

4) The replacement patch panel has NOT been welded in yet, but you can see it looks like I've done this before, NOT the case at all. I spent lots of time shaping this little panel, most of you would probably whip it up in a few minutes lol. You can't really see the contour in the panel to match the floor but its there, that was tough. I borrowed two welders and have been practicing welding on scrap metal...Unfortunately, I need a lot of practice lol I am horrible...I may have figured out what I was doing wrong so I will try once again today...if I don't get better then I will probably farm this little patch panel out to a pro. Before the actual welding of it I've learned it has to be clean metal, so I will do that.

 

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Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)

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Looks like you cut it back to some nice meat to weld to. Should turn out fine, dont forget to warm up on some scrap metal before you weld on the car ;)

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6AA22E39-971B-44A1-8530-59B50B347AFF.jpeg.c8acec323d31c16313acfe2fc8a28949.jpeg

 

My Fisher Body tag… Thx to a Senior Member who didn't want me to show my appreciation by calling him "my hero" for helping decode my tag…haha…

 

I think Mr T. Nugent hit the nail on the head with all my options…

 

07D - July, 4th week

ST - 65-49447 (year, model series & style)

FB - Flint, 278666 (production #)

TR628 - trim black vinyl, optional custom interior trim

TT - champagne mist

2KR - A/C & rear speaker

3T - rear seat center armrest

5W - seat belt with retractors

 

My car also has the finned rocker panels. But since its not on the tag does that mean it was added on at a later date?

 

Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)

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Hey AACA,

New guy here. Finally picked up a 64 Riviera last month after searching/waiting/searching for couple years. Following the various restoration threads is definitely inspiring/motivating. I plan to post up some pics of my Riviera which I purchased as an abandoned restoration project. It runs, numbers on cowl matches engine, interior is beat up, will need engine/tranny rebuild. I seem to have all trim/chrome pieces. I recently removed all interior-seats, console and instrument cluster etc. Keep up the progress on your restorations guys!

Jeff

ROA#14384

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My car also has the finned rocker panels. But since its not on the tag does that mean it was added on at a later date?

Nope, not added. Came as a part of the custom interior package.

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David

Have not seen rear seat divider (fiberboard) specifically available for Rivieras as I am in need of one as well but oldbuickparts (see Group 15 section) sells some for Skylarks. I believe cost 20-25$ and will have to probably customize to fit. Engine is looking sweet!!!

Jeff

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@Jeff, welcome to the forum & congrats on your Riviera purchase. You will love this site great place great people. Thx for the fiberboard direction but before I buy I may start a separate thread on that subject for more options from others. Thx for the engine compliment…glad u like it…I sent u a PM. Can't wait to see your Riv pix

 

@Steve, thx for the reply on my rocker panels

 

Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)

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My very own headlight motor protective rubber cover 

 

Thank you Rob J & Arnulfo for the photos & direction

 

Thx to Arnulfo for the parts connection which made it possible to get one of my very own

 

Its gonna be a while before I get to mount this. But it seems like this is more for protection of the switches against falling debris & not so much for water. I would think water will find its way onto the switches with ease. With that said, I'm guessing water will not harm the headlight motor…

 

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Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)

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Finally, one step closer. I wire wheeled all the crud off of the entire undercarriage in prep to spray Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator, which will then be followed up with a DIY undercoating kit. I only chipped away the loose wheel well & trans tunnel coating then scrubbed it as good as I could. I will be giving the wheel wells a fresh coat with the same undercoating stuff. I ran my wire wheel across the wheel wells but that 50 year old stuff is on there for good. So I figured its not gonna let loose anytime soon.

 

Before wire wheel

 

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After wire wheel

 

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Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)

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Here it is with two cans of Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator. Looks pretty good. First time using this product, I like it, goes on super easy. Top coating directions state to wait 6-8 hours for it to dry & top coat prior to 36 hours without having to scuff the surface. So I hope to spray the undercoating tomorrow.

 

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Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)

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Looking good David!

Hey thanks Rob, I'm just trying to keep up with your "high quality" work lol. But I'm glad u like…long time no speak…glad to see your still checking in…I took a little hiatus

Hope u still have your Rivi

David

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Woo whoo! Another huge DIY step out of the way. Now I will move on to making a block out plate for my firewall.

 

Official DIY Spray-in Bedliner Review 

Today I used a bed liner kit called U-Pol Raptor Urethane Bedliner Kit as an undercoating. It come with 4 one quart bottles of product & 1 quart of hardener. U mix the hardener straight in the product bottle, shake, attach spray gun & shot. 

 

This was my first time using this product & it is, as most reviews state, very user friendly.

 

The kit I bought came with a Schutz Spray Gun ($120 but can be ordered without the gun for less) which is a low pressure gun. But my 20 gallon 1.5hp compressor had a tough time keeping up. One good thing about this gun is that there is very little overspray. Despite the ugly paint on my car, I wrapped the car in plastic anyway (overkill…I know) & laid plastic on the floor (a true "must have").

I powered thru the process & will have to live with the results. I probably shoulda ordered a 4 more bottles to spray on it. But I figured it's never gonna be seen by anyone but me when I change the oil. Some areas look like black speckle paint (not the products fault) rather than the uniform "orange peel" look I was going after. I got good coverage where it counts, on the lower part of the firewall, trans tunnel & floor boards (good thing I started on the trunk end of the car).

 

In my learning curve, I didn't know how far this product would go so I sped thru the spraying & held the gun a little too far from the surface. Overall, I like the product, I like the results & I would recommend it to those who want another undercoating option.

 

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Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)

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As you guys know, I am not a very good welder. But I really enjoy how some of you have cleaned up the engine compartment by eliminating the factory A/C & fabricating a block out plate to place over all the factory holes in the firewall.

 

My factory A/C had been removed & stored in the "open" position causing the need to have the entire system restored which costs a bunch of money. So I will be going with an more cost effective aftermarket A/C & get the clean engine compartment results I admire on your cars too.

 

My local metal supply store has a remnant shelf (as most stores prob do) were I found 16 gage sheet metal. Turns out that thickness would not be the experienced guys first choice. On the flip side to that, being a rookie welder, thicker is better for welding for me.

 

I made a paper template & used my buddys HF metal shears to cut it out. 

 

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I won't post a close-up pic otherwise you guys would probably laugh me off of the forum due to the ugly weld job I ended up with (although I'm sure you guys know how to zoom in).

 

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I used an 80 grit flap wheel on my angle grinder to knock down my welds and used U-Pol Glaze Putty (recommended by my local paint supply store for a beginner like me). The Glaze Putty is a two part filler exactly like Bondo only a bit easier to work with.....not bad for my first time. I also bought Epoxy Primer and Filler Primer which I hope to lay within the next week...

 

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Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)

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Daaaaang David,

Making up for that hiatus huh? Keep up the progress. Gotta say, these pics/post don't do you justice. You CLAIM you don't have skills but seeing your work in person…. brutha you've got skills. Good on you for posting your resto process here for us.

Thanks

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Wow! Thank u very much Snake…no ones ever accused me of that lol…I call it beginners luck lol

 

@ JRRivi64, learning a lot, don't hesitate to call when u need something. Like most first timers, I think we over think the process & spend a lot more time on a project than needed. But because of that fact we end up with decent results…thx again gentlemen

 

I spent a lot of time gawking at everyone else's pix & asking questions…I learned we all love pix…so this is my way of giving back…glad u like

 

Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)

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David,

While you're at it, why don't you roll over here to eastern Kansas and put some of that talent to work on my car. :rolleyes:

Ed

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clamshells said:
As OCD as David is I bet his dentist hates him.

 

EEHH! Dentists are overrated…there is nothing wrong with my teeth…

 

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Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)

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David,

While you're at it, why don't you roll over here to eastern Kansas and put some of that talent to work on my car. :rolleyes:

Ed

Thx for the invite, I would love to come try my "beginners luck" in your huge air conditioned garage…half the stuff I've tried is on my driveway in the blistering heat lol

David

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Thx for the invite, I would love to come try my "beginners luck" in your huge air conditioned garage…half the stuff I've tried is on my driveway in the blistering heat lol David

Been there done that. The climate here seems to be either HOT or cold, nothing in between. That's why my car has been sitting unattended for so long. Luckily for me, the young man who is going to paint my car has the fully equipped body shop where my car is now. He allows me, and a couple of other customers, to do a lot of the grunt work involved in getting the car ready for paint. If it weren't for me being able to do a lot of that work myself, I wouldn't be able to afford the restoration. Oh, and his shop isn't air conditioned, but if you open the overhead door about six inches and turn on the exhaust fan, you can get a nice draft across the cement floor. Tolerable for the most part but I've yet to see what it will be like when the mercury gets into the upper 90's.

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