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About jsgun

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    Palmdale, CA.

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  1. I had to look up the 69 Chevelle gauges, I do like those a lot. It looks like the 65 Chevelle has the metal disc background, much like the Riv. Classic Instruments will make anything for you, but I think I read once it's gets into the $2-3k range for a full custom set. https://shop.classicinstruments.com/retrofits
  2. Something using the original disc backgrounds would be amazing.
  3. Looks like it might be a hacked account. They weren't active for the past year, and they were only a buyer, not a seller.
  4. You might not be aware yet, but first gen Rivieras tend to rust at the bottom of the rear window, and the top of the windshield. If you find some, don't get discouraged, it's extremely common. No replacement metal is available for those areas, you'll have to have the parts made. I suspect that a similarly shaped car (B-body GM, like early chevelle's and skylarks) might have similar shape patch panels that can be used.
  5. Private seller seems to be about $15k for something that needs some work, $20k for very nice, and $25k for almost perfect original. Some list for $30-35k, but that's fishermen wanting GS prices and willing to wait for them.
  6. My dad swears by Vaseline for old seals (foam and hard rubber) and vinyl. It does an amazing job on old vinyl. It's my understanding that Vaseline (or any petroleum based anything) will break down modern seals because they're made from radically different materials. I've found 303 UV Marine Protectant spray (30305) for protecting newer style foam. Great reviews on amazon. I believe someone else here recommended it too.
  7. Knockout car, one of my favorite color combos. Congrats on the LX discovery
  8. I agree. I separated the top bulkhead connector, and every terminal has white corrosion on them. I think a dremel with a small brass brush should make quick work of them. After I found that burned charge wire and start wire, I decided I had better touch every single wire and terminal on the car. I'd rather put the work in now in my driveway, than on the side of the road.
  9. You're right, I forgot about the switching. That was the original thought, that the coil was getting 12v constant, but it's impossible in stock configuration. It's interesting to see what the cause was.
  10. That's been my understanding too, but i'd decided to go with aircraft grade on important ones, and marine grade on secondary ones. The thought being both have to stay running, so they must be more durable.
  11. Thanks for the part number, noted.
  12. That's what frustrated me about my 64. Very obvious cost cutting measures. I trust that GM hired very intelligent engineers, and I know that my knowledge of electric is very basic (don't let the magic smoke out). But I re-wired several circuits to try to get more failsafe protection on them. I even went 4awg on the feed line into the firewall. My 67 mustang was even worse, major cost cutting on the wiring of that car.
  13. I drove my 67 mustang for about 6 years, before I rebuilt the engine compartment wiring harness to handle a higher output alternator. I found that the original alternator charge wire was completely bare, from end to end. I also had melted connectors from the steering column for some reason. The wiring on cars is just enough to make it function, with almost no built in protection for shorts.
  14. that's the tricky part. I think it has to be a combination issue. I think there's just enough power coming through that allows the ignition switch to energize the starter solenoid, without enough amp ability to power anything else. I'm betting the coil is getting power from the yellow wire off the starter (the 12v start bypass wire). This is a guess based of my experiences. When I first got my 64, it did the same thing, other than I had headlights. Nothing else worked. I could start the car, and flip on the lights, and everything else was completely dead to the world. I found combination issues, my fuseblock contacts were all rusted, and most of my terminal contacts were corroded. I also had several burnt wires on the engine side. I think there was so much resistance (from corrosion) in so many circuits that nothing would energize.
  15. Automatic reset breakers... i've found that boat supply places online have waterproof Bussmann auto breakers. Careful shopping, and you can get some killer deals on them.