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About jsgun

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    Palmdale, CA.

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  1. I found a NOS driver's side mirror on ebay for cheap, it's identical to the buick piece, but was labeled for an mid 60's olds.
  2. I started using NGK on a ford motor years ago, awesome plugs. Got NGK platinum for my buick, but haven't ran them yet.
  3. I bought lucas break in oil for my car, the engine supposedly has less than 200 miles on it. I picked up a pre-luber on ebay, got it cheap and thought I might try it out. It's an electric pump that pulls oil from the pan and pushes it into the gallery to get every oiled. Builds about 30 or 40 lbs oil pressure before you start the engine. Lots of arguments on the internet if it's worth it but I don't see any harm.
  4. I was hoping to contact a former user "Gee_Rydes" (Dave Gee) about his 65 Riviera on facebook. Looks like he hasn't been around here since 2017. Anyone have an email address by chance? The address on his facebook page is dead. https://www.facebook.com/1965-Buick-Riviera-149461030162/?ref=page_internal On his facebook page, he shows a special rubber heater hose that can bend and hold it's shape. I've been googling all over, and can't find it anywhere. I was hoping to find out where he got it from, and the brand. Anyone here know by chance? It appears to have a metal wire embedded, but I can't find anything like it.
  5. I had a HO Ford 302, it was one of the fastest revving engines i've seen with the exception of a rotary. I believe that was partly due to the roller cam. At some point in the future i'd like a roller cam and rockers in my nailhead, but i'm not doing anything with the car that I need it to rev fast. I've read that http://schneidercams.com will do one for special order.
  6. Mine was sitting for 10+ years. It hadn't ran in 4 years. The seller and I got it running enough that I could confirm there wasn't any knocks or smoking. All rubber hoses had to be replaced, and in my case it had charging, starting and fuse box wire damage (a short that burned wire). However, I wanted to upgrade the wiring and replace hoses anyway, so it worked out ok. I'm in process of replacing the brake lines. My brake fluid was black and gritty, so my lines are most certainly rusted. Keep in mind that a lot of "little" things will need addressed. Sitting is the worst thing for a car, it causes them to age fast. $6k is a very good in SoCal pricing for a complete car that needs work. It's a very in demand car here. Anything priced less is usually someone's parts car. If you have to start buying missing parts, it gets expensive quick.
  7. Unless you're desperate for money, please don't part it out. I've been told by a couple of friends they've had great success selling cars on "Offerup". I'd ask more for the car, and let people talk you down to the minimum you'd accept. Also, consider a consignment classic car dealer. They handle the selling, for a slice of the pie.
  8. My 64 had a similar experience. The previous owners sent out for paint, and the paint guy decided he wanted to keep the car. They had to get the cops involved to get it back. The clearcoat started peeling within a year. The interior guy didn't want to finish the car, they had to force him to get it done, so the last stages were crap. Did the seats and door panels really well, but there was overspray everywhere and the carpet fit really badly. I think it was that guy that stole the GS valve covers, the air cleaner, and a couple pieces of trim. One of them took pliers to the fuel line trying to sabotage it. I found a piece that was pinched almost flat. They drove it about 200 miles, and had a wiring fire, and got sick of it and parked it for 10 years. Given the circumstances of your story, unless it's anything that affects the car, I wouldn't mention it in the ad. Maybe as a story to a serious buyer. I'm honestly surprised it hasn't sold. If I was in the market, i'd be seriously after it.
  9. I've always liked the "Buick" script on the trunk of the 63. I'd like to do that to my 64, and remove the "Riviera" script.
  10. Personally, i'd find a reputable hot rod shop. You're near a big city, you might have some good candidates near by. Typical mechanic's shops don't have the know-how to take on a big project or deal with the problems that show up when you take apart a 50 year old car. Small jobs equal faster money, and big projects just don't pay well. Have you talked to anyone about hourly rates? Normal shop time is about $120/hr here in CA. I imagine it's near that back east. Paying someone to pull the body off is going to get very expensive very fast. If any of these car shows are to be partially believed, you're probably going to hit $50-75K to make a nice driver. If its something you love, and your wallet can handle the beating, go for it. I know I would. If you're looking to flip it later on, you're going to take a big hit. I had a 67 mustang that was eating the engine's bearings. I know a 302 like the back of my hand. But my back and other health problems stopped me from pulling the motor. Not to mention my HOA would most likely murder me in the driveway for pulling a motor. I sold that car for a fraction of what I had in it. Edit: you're much farther along than I guessed. Very nice ride!
  11. The vette turbines started in 64, I'd like to have a set for my 64 riv but the prices (even for repos) are insane. I was also looking at the vette gauges, same story. Really like the looks of some of the vette parts. Although the Riv turbine caps look amazing.
  12. ok cool, i'm glad it was changed. It was about 12 years ago or more when I was told about that. I did see where you can order black plates. I'm planning on getting some for my riv.
  13. If the plate number has been reused already, they'll seize the plates and destroy them in front of you. I knew a guy that took some nice ones to DMV to register them, they almost cut them in half with tin snips. He grabbed them back, and almost got into a fist fight with security. They were mint condition low number black plates, worth a few hundred even if they couldn't be registered. I was told you can check them online, but i'm not sure where.
  14. Wow, I thought the main line to the rear was bigger. Thanks for the info guys
  15. Going to redo the brake lines on my 64 with nicopp tubing. Going with a dual MC. What size is the tubing going to the front wheels? Also the main line going to the rear axle, and on the rear axle? Are fitting sizes standard for the the tubing size? I imagine its standard GM stuff, but I haven't done brake lines in 20 years and I can't remember. Thanks