first64riv

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About first64riv

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  1. Sorry I didn't see this sooner. Emblem adhesive is at the local parts store. Walmart has this... https://www.walmart.com/ip/3M-Plastic-Emblem-and-Trim-Adhesive-03601-1-oz-Tube/16913676?adid=22222222227009963383&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9JzoBRDjARIsAGcdIDVnHvbXPQ_vbIwyPjWmVVbBQxU9qjh3aWfaCMR8lqFWZ4nAEi9A-JwaAm4pEALw_wcB&selectedSellerId=0&veh=sem&wl0=&wl1=g&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=16913676&wl13=2288&wl13=2288&wl2=c&wl3=42965945432&wl4=aud-566049426705%3Apla-81457922792&wl5=1014327&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wmlspartner=wlpa
  2. Bill, I use emblem adhesive for my emblems. But with the screw does it need adhesive?
  3. I got a response from my co-worker...I took out the images he had because they did not show in when i cut/pasted. Chris, It might be the high voltage power supply for old tube radios (but I don’t understand the push button unless it had a latching power function. If that “capacitor” is really a vibrator, which is a mechanical device to make and break electrical contacts to create a varying voltage to be used in the transformer to boost the output voltage to achieve the high voltages for what was called the B+ voltages to run vacuum tubes. Here is a typical schematic: The tube (the full wave rectifier shown in the middle above) could be what is now rep[laced by high voltage diodes. Here is a link to more information: https://radioremembered.org/vpwrsup.htm
  4. I'm going to send this thread to a coworker. He's a ham radio guy. Maybe he can confirm. Stay tuned...
  5. i believe I set mine according to the timing marks of the indicator next to the balancer. Do you have that indicator still installed?
  6. I think you've hit the nail on the head with "money is no object" statement. When these guys go on TV, I am sure there is some monetary exchange between the producer and the shop that goes towards the vehicles they are restoring. Otherwise, I'm not sure they would risk as much as they do (unless they are veterans of the industry). For example, I was watching Big Easy Motors and from what I can tell, the owner of the company has a second business that is unrelated to the auto industry. So, I suspect the business may float his auto resto business from time to time. Lastly, when these guys are asked to buy cars for others, then money usually is no object. Chris
  7. Is it slamming hard all the time or just at a particular time i.e. warming up or high idle?
  8. Haha. I need the interior trim piece. I'll take one in any condition but I'm sure a bad condition piece will be more in line with my budget. Don't get me wrong, I don't want it to be rusty and one good finger poke away from disintegration. I guess the right words are "driver condition". Thank you Chris
  9. Hey guys, I'm looking for a driver side A-pillar (for a 64). I'm not looking to buy one for a bunch of money so if any of you have a bad looking one...let me know what you want for it. Thank you Chris
  10. i agree, two birds, one stone. When I decide to inspect and change my oil pan gasket, I'll also change my motor mounts. I'm sure mine are original and shot. Chris
  11. I was able to install one line without raising the engine. I forget which line. If you can wait I'll update you this weekend. Chris
  12. I would love to pick this up but you're on the opposite end of the country. Good luck!
  13. I have the copper kit, picked it up a couple days ago. I plan on twisting it around some PVC to create some "coils" in the line. Hope that's what you mean. I'll do the same for the water temp probe since it's pretty rigid. I didn't think of that one. Well, regarding the heater, since I use a manual valve (for now) my heat is always on or off. I may have to figure out an alternative route for the temp probe. For the ammeter, I'll look into a fusible link. I am definitely concerned of fire. I'll keep you all posted! Chris