pertonix for 1955 buick roadmaster

[Guest j.w.]

has anyone converted their old ignition sx(points,rotor,condensor,cap) w/ this new type system eg pertronix or other conparable systems ?My mechanis suggested that i do this for my 1955 buick roadmaster 322 nailhead/v8. could someone xplain the pros and cons of converting over. thanks for the advice>

[TexasJohn55]

I personally still run points but only because of the cost considerations. I would fully recommend a simple "points replacement" system for reliability and simplicity. You could still carry a spare set of points. This would be a viable option if your distributor is still in good condition with good bearings and advance mechanism, etc. As for the replacement systems or distributors that have multiple springs, weights etc, It is a pure PIA to get them setup and tuned in properly, not worth it in my opinion. Tuning an engine for maximum performance AND driveability is a nightmare if you modify ignition or fueling from original setup. Ask an engine builder. John

[avgwarhawk]

I purchased the Pertronix for my 54 264 nailhead. It residing on the shelf. I stuck with the points that worked as designed in 54 and just yesterday replaced them with a new set. Worked as designed after buttoning up the cap. Started first turn. Now, many say you will never have to replace the Pertronix again. True. Provided it does not blow. Many will say you will have to replace the points again. True. They wear out. However, the few miles I do drive my car I should not need to replace these points for a very, very, very long time.

You will find mixed reviews on the Pertronix. Some success. A few nightmares.

[60FlatTop]

I run points in my cars, only Echlin. Most of the others take a long boat ride and are poorly made.

The primary side of your original ignition provides an adjustable dwell. I would prefer that to a non-adjustable pulse width in an electronic system.

Ohm's Law dictates the performance of the secondary side of the system. The coil will only produce the amount of voltage to overcome the resistance of the secondary circuit. Hyped up claims of higher voltage are not really achieved. If 6,000 volts will jump the rotor gap, the plug gap, and the minimal resistance of the wires all you will get is 6,000 volts. Claims of 30,000 or 50,000 volt coils are not usually achieved.

Ask your mechanic to dwell on that for a while.

The old stuff is not hard but you have to know how is works before you can fix it. Since it is 2013 you and most mechanics are on equal ground in understanding mechanical ignition systems and carburetors. Start learning. I guarantee your motivation is higher.

Bernie

[FLYER15015]

j.w.

I still run the OEM gen,starter,dist systems in my '40 Buick, and don't plan to change. I do carry a spare set of points, condenser, and cap with me, but it's mainly for a "feel good" reason.

There are lots of posts / threads in the Pre-War section regarding the Pertronix system, with pro's and cons all over the place. Same is true with the one wire alternator conversion from the old generator system. I guess I just enjoy keeping her stock, and not having to answer a lot of questions from the "lookers" at our local shows, like "look honey, those didn't come with CDI ignition, must be a hot rod".

Mike in Colorado

[D Yaros]

Interesting that all of the above responders have stuck with factory distributor/ignition.

Mine is not a Buick, but a 62 Olds. It has the factory uni-set points. Not plan on changing.

Why? I hear far more complaints than praises when it comes to Petronix, and the like, systems. Most everybody that has one keeps the original distributor in the trunk for back up. What does that tell you.

Have seen them die in others' cars when on tour. Not worth the expense and aggravation IMHO.

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

Of course one hears more complaints than praise. Human nature!!

I have a pertronix in my 1950 Buick. Very happy so far.

Ben

[avgwarhawk]

Of course one hears more complaints than praise. Human nature!!

I have a pertronix in my 1950 Buick. Very happy so far.

Ben

Absolutely Ben.

[smithbrother]

If you believe in POINTS and CONDENSERS so much, WHY carry a spare?

I have installed Pertronix in all my cars that had points, and have had NO ISSUES.

Each to his/her own, but vote me for Pertronix, please.

Dale in Indy

[Bhigdog]

All of my collector cars have Pertronix systems, some for up to 15 years. So far never a problem. Dwell meter? Never use it. Bad condenser? Don't have one. Points with bad contact from sitting? Don't have them either. Laying on the fender trying to reach WAY TO THE BACK of the engine to guess what the feeler gauge says? Never happens. Finding Points that aren't made in China out of mystery metal? Not my problem.

When I build up a new engine I don't even use points to test fire it. A Pertronics unit is installed from the word go.

A question for the folks that feel the need to carry a spare point set "just in case"..... Do you carry spare ignition system parts for your daily drivers that haven't used points for maybe 30 years?

But hey, To each his own. Both systems work. One better than the other. You decide..............................Bob

Edited July 17, 2013 by Bhigdog (see edit history)

[avgwarhawk]

I would venture to guess Pertronix users probably carry extra points or even a extra Pertronix unit. I do not carry extra anything in my Buick except a spare tire. . Can't assume everyone carries extra ignition parts. I see no reason too.

Edited July 17, 2013 by avgwarhawk (see edit history)

[trimacar]

A long running discussion, with pro and con points (pun intended) made...

With no spares, and ignition issues broke down on side of road, would one rather have an electronic ignition system, or a system with points that can be filed/adjusted?

I often saw in industry that state of the art electronics and/or control was installed because it was available and /or it seemed to fix a perceived problem, yet it would often cause downtime since the simple on/off switch no longer existed...

Think long and hard about changing systems that worked back then...

[Bhigdog]

The abacus worked, and worked well, for thousands of years, back then......................Bob

[NTX5467]

Here's MY reason for "going electronic". In my '67 Chrysler, I had the stock distributor, but wanted something a little "hotter", so I got the Direct Connection spacer adapter so I could put a RB distributor in my 383 . . . all stock part items. The 440 distributor was one I bought used which was a dual point unit numbered for a 440 6bbl engine. Longer dwell = hotter spark from greater coil saturation prior to firing. All well and good. Everything fit as designed.

THEN I tried to adjust the points, per specs. I could get the point gap correct, but the dwell was not correct. I tweaked the gap a little closer, with no real significant improvement in the situation. So, one evening, I got the distributor out (which is EASY on those motors!) and also dug out my dial indicator. This allowed me to check EACH lobe on the distributor cam. As with many used distributors, some peaks were a little rounder than others, but nobody ever worried about that before . . . until I discovered how much variation there really was between them! Once I'd turned the distributor a few turns and saw how the point gap could change when one was set "dead-on" the peak, then going to the next one, and such . . . it became very apparent (to me) that it would be nearly impossible to accurately set the points on an older distributor. If you set the gap on one peak, the gap would not automatically be the same on the next one, and so on. Rubbing block friction is the culprit . . . not only does the rubbing block wear down and allow the point gap to change, it ALSO wears the distributor cam it rides against! Compound THAT by the fact that in the middle 1980s, FEW new point sets came with the small vial of "point grease" in them, so many were probably installed "dry", which further complicated the durability of the points. In that general time frame, I'd run across people who had older cars whose points didn't last but 6000 miles of daily driving, yet I knew in the 1960s that you could easily run them 12-15K before you really needed to replace them.

One afternoon after work, I went in search of "point grease". My first stop was a chain discount auto parts/repair facility. I went to the parts counter and the younger military guy bounded up to ask what I wanted. He was also "show-boating" for his adjacent female friend, by observation. He brought me some wheel bearing grease. He EXPECTED me to accept that as correct and go on, but I didn't, knowing that he was too young to know about ignition points in vehicles. I respectfully told him what I was looking for. The wind out of his sails, he looked in some catalogs and didn't find anything. I thanked him for his efforts.

Next stop to a Western Auto. I'd seen some there a few months prior, on the end of a rack display. The manager admitted to seeing the lube there, but we could not find it. I thanked him, too, as he apologized for not having any.

Final stop that evening was to a long-time local auto supply a few blocks away. The younger (no attitude!) guy asked what I was looking for. He keyed on "grease" and we walked to their selection of chassis grease cartridges. I said that I probablly could use that, but there was a particular grease for that particular application. He went to the office and inquired, coming back with the news that they didn't have any. I thanked him.

A few days later, I was in SuperShops and saw a full tube of Mallory Ignition Point Lubricant residing on their j-hook wall. I bought it! I also knew that GM had some in their Standard Parts catalog, but bought the Mallory stuff instead. A few years later, I lent that tube to a friend, who probably still has it.

I have nothing against point ignition systems! In some cases, they are preferable to anything electronic, as in "cranking spark capabilities with a low battery". ALL of the electronic control boxes will NOT produce a spark unless the battery voltage is at a particular level, even if there's enough juice to spin the starter fast enough to start the car! I witnessed THAT one evening at a cruise event. A 'Cuda440 owner had a car that wouldn't start. It would crank just fine and fast, but the car wouldn't start UNTIL somebody hooked a set of jumper cables to the battery . . . thereby getting past the threshhold for the Mopar Perf "Orange Box" to produce spark to start the engine.

Several years later, we were at Mopar Nats with a car club member whose Dodge Daytona Wing Car was being judged in the Concours Judging class. For that class, the car had to start and drive up on a pair of ramps, so the car's underbody could be judged. My friend had forgotten to charge the battery the night before, OR before he left home (the car was enclosed-trailered). It barely turned over, several times, but finally one plug fired at the right time and it started. If that had been ANY electronic system, the battery probably would not have had enough juice to fire the plugs, although it would turn the motor over.

Certainly, plusses and minuses for point systems! But we used them for ages and never worried that we might be setting the point gap a little sloppily (but not knowing we were at the time).

As for the Pertronix system, it seems that many in here (at the earlier time when this subject came up) had rave reviews for the units. Then, in this forum and some others, some "not good" posts turned up. Inintially, there was only ONE Pertronix (during the "good review" times), but they later came out with a "newer and better" system that some had some initial issues with (teething pains?). Then we started to investigate and found that most of the issues were with the "newer and better" system, rather than the earlier one. And NOW there are a few more levels of "newer and better" in Pertronix, than back then.

Prior to hearing of the Pertronix system, the only one I would have considered was the MSD multi-spark system -- period. But it now seems they've moved farther away from stock-type upgrade kits toward more higher-end racing stuff.

Bernie's comments about coil output are correct! I never could tell any difference in a "hot stock coil" and a normal stock item, in performance. The coil's onlly going to produce enough juice for the spark to jump the gap in the spark plug . . . period. IF cylinder pressure is high enough, engine load is high enough, etc., then a 50KV coil might be necessary, but for a lower-rpm stock motor, definitely not needed. BUT they sure do look "racy" under the hood! LOL

I DO like electronic ignition systems, though. Firing accuracy is much better than points. Maintenance is much "less" there, too. Reliability is very good, too.

To me, one of the BEST distributor adjustment set-ups is on the Delco-Remy distributors which GM used on their V-8s, with the "trap door" hiding the Allen head adjustment for the points. THEN, the earlier method of adjustment . . . turn the screw one way until you get a mis-fire, then turn it back enough that mis-fire goes away . . . done. NO feeler gauges or whatever! I don't know how well it might work or what dwell numbers it might produce like that, but it sure sounds neat!

I'd say to use whichever system you like, know how it works, AND which you can work on easily! BUT . . . if you run points, be SURE to add the appropriate point lube to the points' rubbing block as rubbing block wear is the main reason, I suspect, that point gap adjustments can change. Not to forget that the distributor's cam needs that lubricant also!

Just some thoughts and observations . . .

NTX5467

[old-tank]

Now for my unsolicited rant on Pertronix: (don't put it in a 55!)

There is nothing special about installing electronic ignition in a stock distributor. Maybe if you adapted an HEI to your engine you might get the advantage of the larger distributor cap, thicker wires and the ability to install plugs with a wider gap. Any ignition system, electronic or points is just a switch, with electronic only having the advantage of working at high rpm (6,000+).

Also I have had some disasters with the Pertronix unit. It worked (same as stock with no increase in mpg, power or driveability) for 5,000 miles and then my rotor burned. Burned as in it literally caught fire inside the distributor and burned the tip off. The next year a friend had the exact same thing happen. Not heeding those incidents, I put the same unit in another engine with you guessed it... It seems that the carbon rod between the center and tip of a 55 rotor is what burns.

Calls to Pertronix were useless, since they offered no technical support. The original instructions for wiring to the car called for bypassing the resistor on the firewall. This is supposed to result in a hotter spark if used with their 'FlameThrower' coil. Internet research showed new installation instructions: use a stock coil and don't bypass the firewall resistor. I have not tried this and you should not either just to pay for an expensive switch.

Stock points/condensor will last 30,000 miles and will serve you well, just like they did when these old cars were contemporary. I would rather change them when I want to, not in the hot parking lot of a truck stop in Little Rock, AR. I still have the Pertronix and might sell it to someone I don't like, but would not sell or give to a friend.

Willie

[bhambulldog]

I've had electronic replacement for points in my car for 11 years.

Never had a problem

[5219]

When electronic ignition dies, it really dies! Points can be adjusted, cleaned or replaced. The problem of cheap Chinese points is easily solved, since EBay is full of NOS US-made points for cheap. I shudder to think where some of the electronic ignition components come from!

[Guest]

All of my collector cars have Pertronix systems, some for up to 15 years. So far never a problem. Dwell meter? Never use it. Bad condenser? Don't have one. Points with bad contact from sitting? Don't have them either. Laying on the fender trying to reach WAY TO THE BACK of the engine to guess what the feeler gauge says? Never happens. Finding Points that aren't made in China out of mystery metal? Not my problem.

When I build up a new engine I don't even use points to test fire it. A Pertronics unit is installed from the word go.

A question for the folks that feel the need to carry a spare point set "just in case"..... Do you carry spare ignition system parts for your daily drivers that haven't used points for maybe 30 years?

But hey, To each his own. Both systems work. One better than the other. You decide..............................Bob

Interesting observing all of this. A friend decided to use Pertronic's in his 63 409 Impala before going to some big Chevy show up in the Bay area. He told me he was sure glad he kept all the old ignition parts in a little box in the trunk. I asked the question why? He said he didn't know what went wrong with the electronic ignition so I said I would check it out for him. He said I'd have a job doing that because somewhere just off the 101 near Bradley is where they would be......located just about as far from the FWY as he threw them.

Now what is all the fuss about changing points. The proper way is to remove the distributor check the distributor shaft for wear and install it in the distributor machine, then you can thoroughly clean the inside, check your mechanical and vacuum advance, lubricate your advance weights and rubbing block on the new points check the condenser and spin the distributor set the dwell (feeler gauge you must be joking for accurate settings) run the distributor and check the rpm which the mechanical comes in, make sure there is no point bounce at high rpm and back in the engine and set the timing.

On my 76 Olds with GM HEI electronic ignition the procedure is almost the same. Remove the distributor, check the distributor shaft for wear, mount it in the distributor machine remove the rotor, distributor module, and clean the inside of the housing. Clean the bottom of the module and apply dielectric grease to the module and the distributor plate and install the module. Check the vacuum advance, lube and check the mechanical advance weights set the air gap with a clean set of BRASS feeler gauge. Just note that the module needs new grease about once a year and the mechanical weights need cam grease about the same. I would also check the shaft at the same time.

To do the job properly there is not much difference in the job or in the timeline this procedure needs to be done in. Where mileage is not a factor about once a year for both types of ignition systems. A note; if you grease the bottom of the module once a year they will probably last the life of the car...I have never replaced my original in my 76 Olds. People think just because they have electronic ignition there is no maintenance....well there is.

I realize most people don't have a distributor machine, but all the checks except point bounce can be done on the car if you know what your doing.....but you still need to take the distributor out to clean and check things to do a thorough job.

Edited July 18, 2013 by helfen (see edit history)

[Guest]

When electronic ignition dies, it really dies! Points can be adjusted, cleaned or replaced. The problem of cheap Chinese points is easily solved, since EBay is full of NOS US-made points for cheap. I shudder to think where some of the electronic ignition components come from!

That is very true, but remember when a condenser goes bad the same thing happens.

[60FlatTop]

There is only one way to change points. Get some old PIA who doesn't trust anything:

and just humor him. He won't change.

Bernie

[avgwarhawk]

That's too funny Bernie.

For me, I'm not willing to take the chance. I have ran points with no issue in my 73 Buick Estate Wagon and now my 54 Special. Neither have left me on the side of the road. Although, it was my 73 Buick that really made me learn and understand the point system. I would have to say, the small door that opens to allow access to the screw that adjust dwell is downright great engineering. Laying on the motor to get to the distributor at the firewall with my 54....not so much. I know, pull out the distributor. Looking at the mounting bolt and getting at it is not much better than replacing the points while the distributor remains in place. I was done in 30 minutes using the engine surfing method.

[DonMicheletti]

Gee guys. It is interesting to find that I have been incorrectly maintaining my cars with points for about 60 years. 6's, straight 8's, V-8's, with points.

I never took a distributor out to change the points and condenser and I only had a feeler gage and timing light, oh yes, and a screwdriver . I have never had an ignition system failure either.

Most of these engines are bricks and will do just fine, things just have to be reasonably right.

Don

[old-tank]

How many of you Pertronix users drive road trips of 1-3K miles? vs just driving local? :eek:

[bhambulldog]

I've driven several 300 mile round trips.

The thickness of my wallet (or, the lack thereof) keeps me close to home.

I've has that electronic doo-dad in the distributor for so long, I don't remember if it is pertronics or some other brand....

I've never had an issue , outside of the coil wire falling off once. ....

That would be a problem , points or not.....

[60FlatTop]

I knew a guy who had a Harley once. He thought a 1/4 mile race was an Enduro.

I changed the points in my '60 about 2 years ago. They had been in for 9 years.

The points in the Riviera date to about 1995. I might do them this year just for GP.

When I take the distributor out I don't drop stuff so easy. I check the shaft for wiggles and turn the cam around nice and slow. I usually remove the ground wire between the plate and the housing to check for cracks or fraying. A couple of screws and a clip lets you check the advance weights and makes sure the point plate moves freely. A light coat of 30W on the bottom of the plate works good. The advance pivot points get a little white lithium grease, just like the distributor cam. Then I check the grommet where the primary wire comes through and the wire itself for cracks.

When I was in my late 20's I decided I would never remove a distributor unless the rotor was pointing 90 degrees to the firewall,so I don't have much trouble putting it back in.

Later, around 11 PM or so, I sit on the edge of the bed taking my socks off and sometimes pause for a moment and ask myself if I had been too cautious today.

Of course its not always like that. I remember one night just jumping into bed without pause or thought. I had been in a heated argument other the hyphenation of anal-retentive.

Just my points.

Bernie

[lancemb]

Have had Pertronix in my 57 several years and just put in 58. I switched after several cases of no-start after just a couple months of sitting and haven't had an issue since. Also switched at the recommendation of a top-notch gearhead friend (RIP).

I use the lobe-sensor type which requires no removal of the distributor or modification. About a 15 minute install. I carry the old points in the glovebox simply because I have them handy and they don't take up much room.

PS - instructions with mine did NOT say to bypass the resistor and I haven't...

[avgwarhawk]

PS - instructions with mine did NOT say to bypass the resistor and I haven't...

I have read the instructions as the same. Not the clearest IMO. The resistor must stay. Good tip.

[Guest]

Gee guys. It is interesting to find that I have been incorrectly maintaining my cars with points for about 60 years. 6's, straight 8's, V-8's, with points.

I never took a distributor out to change the points and condenser and I only had a feeler gage and timing light, oh yes, and a screwdriver . I have never had an ignition system failure either.

Most of these engines are bricks and will do just fine, things just have to be reasonably right.

Don

Quite right you have been doing it incorrectly and your lucky none of your cars had ever thrown you a curve ball. If you had done this for a living you would know what I'm talking about. You are one of the lucky ones just like the overweight diabetics you see on TV that seem to be in great health when a great many of them who never took care of their bodies and diet have gone blind or are missing some of their extremities!

And a word about distributor cam grease from Mallory;

, Mallory cam grease is specially formulated to meet the lubrication requirements between the distributor cam and breaker point rubbing block. Because of its non flowing qualities under extreme heat, Mallory cam grease prevents rubbing block and cam wear and continues its protection against rust and corrosion.

In other words don't use any other type of grease especially white lithium grease.

[60FlatTop]

They designed distributors so the engine stops running when you change the points; no risk of losing extremities. The white grease is good to 300 F. A little dab on the pivot points of the weights and the spring hooks and a wipe across the points cam lubes and protects. Been using it since 1977, I remember the first day.

Back on topic, points are fine, electronics are fine. Logic has no place in a group of people who drive 50 and 60 year old cars. Watch, proof is on the way.

Bernie

[Bhigdog]

Just don't try using that rubbing block grease on a Pertronix unit. they require special flux gate grease. If you don't use it the flux gate hinges get dry and squeak like Hell not to mention the flux gets all fluxed up leading to who knows what..................Bob:D

[NTX5467]

The flux gate grease ALSO protects the flux capacitor, to ensure its "zaps" are tightly-controlled and specifically-timed to remotely-control the flux gate's efficient operation.

[Den41Buick]

I have one car with the Pertonix and one without. Both on different engines as well. They both work very well, but I like the reliability of the electronic ignition. That is my opinion.

[bhambulldog]

I'm driving the Buick with electronic breakers, to work tomorrow. Because the Durango puked up half it's coolant through a leak ....

[DonMicheletti]

Helfin,

You are exactly right - I didnt do it for a living. And I dont think I was "just lucky", I did it to keep my cars running right. In the days most of this was done, few garages (mostly gas / service) had fancy machines to do what you say. Also, replacing points without removing the distributor was a whole lot quicker - read, less expensive. And it did work out if you knew what you were doing.

As far as checking the vacuum advance was concerned - all you had to do was blip the throttle while using a timing light and see if the retard responded correctly.

As far as the Pertronix goes - I have used them. Some worked, some failed. One caught fire.

[Guest]

Helfin,

You are exactly right - I didnt do it for a living. And I dont think I was "just lucky", I did it to keep my cars running right. In the days most of this was done, few garages (mostly gas / service) had fancy machines to do what you say. Also, replacing points without removing the distributor was a whole lot quicker - read, less expensive. And it did work out if you knew what you were doing.

As far as checking the vacuum advance was concerned - all you had to do was blip the throttle while using a timing light and see if the retard responded correctly.

As far as the Pertronix goes - I have used them. Some worked, some failed. One caught fire.

Whether or not your doing a tune up or diagnosing a problem with the ignition the basics must be covered. A proper minor tune up requires the distributor to be removed just to check the bushings alone! Some have bearings. That IS part of the tune up on a car with points or HEI. If the shaft is wobbling due to wear anything else you do won't matter. You don't build a house without a good foundation, or you don't replace brake shoes and button up the brakes when a wheel cylinder is leaking. Why is this so hard to understand?

[avgwarhawk]

Whether or not your doing a tune up or diagnosing a problem with the ignition the basics must be covered. A proper minor tune up requires the distributor to be removed just to check the bushings alone! Some have bearings. That IS part of the tune up on a car with points or HEI. If the shaft is wobbling due to wear anything else you do won't matter. You don't build a house without a good foundation, or you don't replace brake shoes and button up the brakes when a wheel cylinder is leaking. Why is this so hard to understand?

I don't recall my manual stating to R and R the distributor. Could be wrong. Common sense dictates that a leaking wheel cylinder needs to be replaced.

[Bhigdog]

A wobbling dist cam means variable point gap which means variable dwell which means variable timing. A magnetic pick on the other hand up sees the high point of the cam with little regard, within reason, to it's gap from itself thus there is little reason to remove the dist. In fact with a magnetic pick up ( Pertronix) there is little reason to even service the dist, or check timing, except to slap on a new rotor and cap from time to time. While you are doing that it's a simple matter to give the cam a wiggle test for wear and add a tiny drop of oil to the advance wear points. Since there is no cam follower (points) restricting it's movement it only takes a couple of seconds. Then a quick check for time and advance ( they very most likely have not changed)...............Bob

Edited July 19, 2013 by Bhigdog (see edit history)

[NTX5467]

To me, the issue of arbitrarily removing the distributor for points replacement is variable! On some engines, as the Chrysler B/RB V-8s, there are only TWO ways to put the distributor back in . . . right or 180 degrees out . . . as the gear in the distributor's cam drive stays in the motor, unlike many GM brands of engines. Doing this with a distributor with a gear on the bottom of the shaft CAN be asking for trouble . . . which can mean lost productivity for the repair shop and customer frustrations as their car either isn't ready quickly or the tech gets it "one tooth off". Much better customer satisfaction, generally, to use the fender covers and lay over the top of the fender to do the points replacement. Back when mechanics were used to doing it and had a ready supply of parts, it was a pretty quick operation.

I recall seeing in a Chrysler service manual that a complete distributor overhaul meant taking the distributor out, taking it apart, cleaning it up in the solvent tank, "washing" and drying it, checking for shaft bushing wear (which could also be done "in chassis"), putting appropriate lube where it needed to be, reassembling, setting the point gap and dwell, then putting it back in the car.

One day when I was checking my parents' '72 Chrysler over, I pulled the distributor cap and checked for shaft "play". With the factory electronic distributor, there was none. I figured that when you took the side loads off of the bearings (from the ignition points' rubbing block), all the shaft had to do was spin. Hence, less bushing wear.

When I swapped cams in my '77 Camaro, at 92K miles, I had the HEI distributor out and pulled it apart. It took some B-12 to get the residual varnish off of the shaft's lower section, but it was very un-worn. Again, no side loads against the bushings, so it just had to "spin". I put a new gear on the bottom, cleaned it up, and reassembled. With the HEI, as long as there is some dielectric grease under the module, it'll live. As long as the coil ground strap is in place, the coil will live. As long as the spark plug gaps/plug wire condition are good, probably no holes in the rotor will happen. As long as the resistance of the carbon contact in the cap is not too high, no problems with the rotor, either. Similarly, as long as the crankcase vent system is in good condition, no reason for oily residue to be inside the distributor body!

I"m not sure why the alleged reliability of the Pertronix system is NOT up to 1980s OEM standards . . . at least for GM or Chrysler . . . Ford can be another issue. The Mopar Perf electronic distributor is an accepted upgrade in the Mopar camp, looking very stock, other than an extra wire going to it. The control box can be hidden, if one might desire (as I did on my '67 Chrysler). Similarly, an HEI upgrade on many GM engines is rather easy to do. And there are some aftermarket replacement systems that are very OEM-similar, too, which have had good results in the hot rod industry. Which, with so many GOOD systems out there, why can the Pertronix seem to be harder to deal with?

In prior times, we had a member of our Mopar group who was sold on Jacobs Ignition products. He had it on his cars, with apparent good success. When another member was going to try that system on his 440-6bbl Road Runner, it didn't work well at all. THEN we discovered that the first friend had had extensive conversations with the Jacobs people and had to pretty much re-wire the whole system to get it to work "as advertised". Back went the Mopar Perf electronic system into the Road Runner! It was "known territory" and better to deal with. In reality, the MP system just replaced the breaker plate with the electronic items and little else, so the look is completely stock other than there being a two-wire "wire" going to the distributor rather than a single black wire. And, of course, MSD has plug-in replacement boxes for the Chrysler system.

Davis Unified Ignition started out using an HEI module remotely-mounted outside of the distributor cap on older GM and Chrysler distributors. Plus some other "things" to build their business on. So why is the Pertronix system so problematic, seemingly? Or did it gain popularity as one of the first "drop-in" conversion kits?

If some desire to R & R their distributors to work on them, good deal. But as I had some issues with residual oil in the engine back-flowing through the pump as the car sat overnight, with the distributor out, turning the oil pump shaft in the process, I'd be one to seek to NOT have to remove a gear-on-the-bottom-of-the-shaft distributor unless it was absolutely necessary OR it was being replaced. I quickly found that a tire tool works GREAT for checking and re-clocking the distributor's shaft beforfe re-installing the distributor in my Camaro. But on the Chrysler B/RB V-8s with the slot on the bottom of the distributor shaft, I have no problem taking them out, although they are easy to ge to, anyway. I've known some guys that could R & R a Chevy V-8 distributor with NO problems at all, getting the rotor clocked-in perfectly . . . but when I try it, it doesn't seem to work as well for me, typically. Be that as it may!

Until I started hanging around in "these parts", I'd not really heard of Pertronix, other than in a magazine ad. Most of my "hot rod" associates (and me) were more focused on MSD multi-strike, ACCEL, Mallory, and such. I helped one friend upgrade his '64 Galaxie 352 to a Mallory Uni-Lite system in the middle 1970s, using the LED and a shutter wheel to do the switching rather than contact points. Other than the suspect decrease in maintenance of an electronic system, I also like the consistent spark-timing accuracy, for whatever it's worth.

Enjoy!

NTX5467

Edited August 18, 2013 by NTX5467 (see edit history)

[DonMicheletti]

I'm not much for cutting corners. Back in the days of regular point changes (10K to 15K miles) you could easily determine if there was shaft wear, advance issues and such. Those things didnt fail dramatically - they happened over a long time (miles).

I am not a professional mechanic and I have not seen hundreds of cars. However my personal experience is that I have never had a car that wore the bearings nor cam lobes out in a distributor and all my cars went to over 100K miles.

If we are talking collector cars that is well a different story - that could be a crap shoot. When I do one of those engines - everything comes apart and gets checked - including the distributor shafts to clean out the inevitable crud and dried grease that will be around the bearings.

[NTX5467]

I, as others, were not aware of wear on the cam lobes back then. We just found a "high point" and did the point adjustment and then checked the dwell (IF we had a dwell meter). That particular issue got to me when I was trying to adjust the points on the dual point, but couldn't get the dwell to specs with spec'd point gaps -- I ended up putting the orig distributor back in the car, then later did the MP kit. Some of the older manuals I have do mention lobe wear if the dwell and point gap can't be made to coincide, which was usually not a problem, by observation, back then. BUT then too, most of the cars I saw points being put in were under 70K miles anyway. But as long as the engine doesn't miss and you set the timing AFTER you set the point gap/dwell, we probably would not have noticed anything wrong or not totally "optimum".

I've also observed that many tune-up specs have a good bit more lee-way than many would want to admit to! All of the engines were not completely mass-produced identical, either! Even variations, sometimes, in where the keyway in the crankshaft nose was cut, which affected ALL tuning/timing settings in one way or another. To me, factory tuning specs are a starting point to finesse the tuning of the motor for best performance, economy, and available fuels. But that's just me.

Just some thoughts . . .

NTX5467