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TexasJohn55

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Everything posted by TexasJohn55

  1. The rubber sleeve and brass ring are an interferance fit and should be difficult to relocate while in the column. If I recall correctly, the brass sleeve should not be able to slide down the rubber sleeve to expose the rubber, I think the brass sleeve is slightly crimped on the upper end, it also has the notch stamped in it for the wire to be soldered to. Your alternative might be to loosen the column and slide it downward to better align, not positive about that because the 56 design has rag-joint and the 55 shaft is captured in the steering box. At any rate, if you could re-position the bras
  2. Dry and gummy. Had to remove all door panels on mine and spray with WD40. You might get enough sprayed in around the door latch area to do some good.
  3. Mud, do you oven bake any parts that you paint?
  4. Even a washing machine needs an agitator.
  5. Yeah, me too! How about a pic of that beautiful Miss Rita?
  6. Dang! I feel lower than a snake's belly in a wagon rut! All in fun Dave. ( I do prefer the overalls though.) TexasJohn
  7. Yes, but funny anyway. C'mon, haven't you ever dreamed of being a hood ornament? .............Anonymous in Texas Honestly, would you prefer pink bunnies?
  8. Ugh! That stuff should be censored! Where is a moderator when you need them? Ugh!
  9. Keith, pretty car, pretty "colors" too..............TJ55
  10. JohnD, Nice pic but PLEASE resize your photos. It took me 10 minutes on dial-up to download it. I was too curious not to though. That is what mine looked like before I replaced it.
  11. Dale, Don't condemn the transmission just yet. Did they determine where the fluid was leaking from? Front seal area, rear of trans,dipstick, etc? First check the vent tube for being plugged. Try slipping a rubber hose over the vent tube and blowing into it. If it is plugged, it may blow fluid. If the fluid level was overfull or low, it may also spit fluid. If the fluid cooler or lines were restricted it could overheat and spit fluid. Probably not in 5 miles, but......... Does it still drive and pull OK?
  12. Good job Matt. Did you happen to check to see if your voltages returned to normal readings in spec? That might be a good clue for others chasing the same problem.
  13. That is what we needed, someone that knows without needing a schematic. Thanks RivNut!
  14. Do you need 3 wires to ground a light? Or does it individually turn on 3 lamps? I don't have a schematic.
  15. Doesn't sound like a direct replacement. I will assume that all cars of that vintage used a ground circuit, I will soon be corrected if wrong. Your new switch is a grounding switch so see if any of your 3 wires shows voltage with lights on or off. If no voltage, see which one turns on the dome light when it is grounded and plug that one into the new switch at the open terminal. That should ground thru the switch and to the grounding spring when door is opened and break ground when plunger is pushed in.
  16. Nice, I like the teamwork approach too! Way to go Mike.
  17. Matt, Mine was the magnet missing. See if you can stick a 12 or 16 penny nail on it's head and the magnet hold it straight out.
  18. David, I couldn't help but notice that small caliper and pad setup appears to only use about half of the available rotor surface. Is that pretty common on conversion/aftermarket kits? re: post 33 Your project is really coming along, nice work. John
  19. Hey Mud, Why remove a shim? Dry everything and use anaerobic sealer, the excess will squeeze out, don't forget to seal the bolt threads also. I would vote against silicone gasket sealer, it is pretty thick and heavy. TJ55
  20. Bravo! Some folks would not have realized that it was incorrect and could cause a problem, hope it fixes your problem, TJ55
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