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Everything posted by Smartin

  1. Smartin

    1957 76C

    Correct - I should have worded it this way - "I am suspicious that there was no bracing when those panels were replaced." I cannot assume just makes me wonder. It was my first gut feeling when you mentioned the door not fitting.😲
  2. Smartin

    1957 76C

    I dig the new steering wheel! I'm anxious to see what the situation is with the door alignment. Hopefully it's an easy fix. It concerns me that the floor and outer rocker were replaced and nothing was braced beforehand. It looks like progress is fast there...looking forward to updates!
  3. I cleaned every bit of oil, grease, and paint off the steering gear manually as much as I thought was not a complete waste of my time. Mostly I was trying to get down to bare aluminum for the top cover. As soon as that was clean, I made sure the holes for the hoses were plugged well...and then blasted the rest of it lightly. Enough to get everything out of the nooks and crannies. On the big cast housing, I used some Duplicolor cast iron spray that was left over from another job. The end by the rag joint is actually chrome paint...just out of a spray can. I left the aluminum top cap bare, and used flat black paint on the bolts to simulate black phosphate. On the rag joint - that is the original one. I bought a new one from The Parts Place, but the finish was a gold cad, and I didn't like the look of the two bolts that came with it. So I blasted the original one clean and chrome painted the steel bracket. I satin cleared the rest of it. Bolts and nuts are flat black to simulate black phosphate again. I left the long part of the steering shaft bare, and clear coated it. The top coupler is painted a kind of cast color to simulate grey phosphate. I disassembled that and cleaned everything up, then re-greased and assembled. The rubber boot is in good shape. They do reproduce those if needed. 95% of the fasteners on this car will be new and have the correct plating on them. Some stuff like this I have to get creative, because if this entire steering box and shaft were completely disassembled, plated correctly, then reassembled (also assuming box is being rebuilt by a pro), then you'd be into it for like $1k time and material. I just have a few hours into this and it looks and performs perfectly.
  4. Today, I tackled all of the control arm bushing removal. All 16 of them. Fun times! I finished the steering box as well. I'll get it mounted tomorrow, along with a few trinkets that have been painted already. I'm waiting on all of the new control arm bushings to install, so I haven't painted any of those yet. I blasted through (literally) my last sandblasting tip today, so hopefully my order from a few days ago gets here soon. I topcoated the frame with Eastwood Chassis Black today. It is really close in gloss level as just putting two coats of black epoxy on. This adds just a touch more gloss, though. I like it so far.
  5. Black epoxy made its way into the frame today. I have it completely disassembled, finally. Tomorrow, I’ll have the steering box and shaft detailed. Hopefully I’ll get the top coat on the frame, too. Lots of new lines and bushings coming daily...
  6. Seam sealer goes on before paint. Undercoating or "body schutz" was applied post-paint. That's the black splattery stuff around grommets and wheel wells.
  7. I had the blaster out yesterday so we could get this done before a nasty winter storm rolls through today and tomorrow. There was am undercoating on the body that was like a hard plastic. Similar to truck bed liner. We were worried that it wouldn't come off with the blaster...but had high hopes. It actually blew off pretty quickly. I had him clean up the rolling chassis while he was here, as well as the underside of the trunk lid. I now have the chassis in the shop ready to disassemble. The body is in the house garage where it will stay until I finish the chassis. There is one ugly spot on the body floor that needs attention, and a couple really small spots where seams overlap. Other than that, it's really clean.
  8. Can you imagine trying to come up with all the missing trim?? No thanks...the only way that thing is going for $10k is if it's cleaned up and all trim is accounted for.
  9. Yes, but I'm unsure of the span of cross-breeding. Also keep in mind small block vs big block, and auto vs manual.
  10. Body is mounted on the rotisserie...waiting on a schedule from the blaster. I'll be doing some disassembling on the chassis before he gets here. He is thinking sometime next week...although I might be able to coerce him to do another weekend run.
  11. Waiting on a new mounting arm to be made for the rotisserie...
  12. Epoxy primer on the body shell, and a good heavy coat of high build on the quarters. Now to brace the body and figure out how to get it mounted on the rotisserie... Priming all those crevices in the body is about as fun as painting a chassis.
  13. There are new ones available at most restoration parts suppliers now. 👍
  14. Thank you! I finished the right quarter today. I still have to work the top contour just a little bit on both sides, but it's minor. Leaving for Chicago tomorrow early and coming back Monday afternoon.
  15. Back at it with a full tank of gas... LH quarter is finished, and RH quarter has been removed to start trimming the new quarter in. I decided to leave the door jamb portion of this quarter panel alone with the factory jamb, instead of using the whole replacement quarter. The factory seams and panel gaps are perfect on this side, and the aftermarket quarter -to-door gap is not as clean. Driver side worked out pretty well, but I will have to work the door edge a touch to make it right. I have one more full day off work to get this quarter panel hung, then it's off to MCACN Friday morning. Back on Monday, but likely will not do anything in the garage.
  16. I’ve learned a few things since then 😎
  17. LOL Funny thing is, I had to get another tank halfway through your job. I think it's time to upgrade to a bigger one. I was able to get all of the spot welding done yesterday, though.
  18. I concur with all of your assessments. I'll have to have a conversation with him 🤓
  19. Ok I lied...I ran out of shielding gas 20 minutes into the job. Back at it on Tuesday.
  20. That is pretty much what I was thinking...unfortunately he is "firm" on his price and will sit on it until he doesn't have a choice.
  21. TTT I have no skin in this game, just posting for my buddy. I am curious on if this is a reasonable asking price, or if he's dreaming.
  22. I continued hacking the old quarter panel off enough to start fitting the new one this evening. I'm at the point now where I can scribe the cut line on the new quarter inside along the edge of the old one. The new one is fitted where the door gap is about perfect. The body contours line up really well. To clarify about the top "indent" on the convertible quarter panels vs. hardtops, they both have that dip...just at a different angle back-to-front. The second photo posted shows that inside curve at the top of the new quarter, but rises too quickly and disappears into the C pillar...or what WAS the C pillar. My intent is to tease the new one to meet up with the old one. It may require some hammer/dolly work, but I think we will be in good shape.
  23. I've used panel bond...did it on the red 72 X last year in a couple spots that I couldn't effectively weld. One of them was at the lower front of the quarter where it meets the top of the rocker. Be sure you are prepping the metal with enough "bite" for the panel bond to hold onto.