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Everything posted by Smartin

  1. I would have thought you could pick out all of the authenticity issues without needing to ask me why I thought the price would top out at $12k. I got good money for my car because it’s an excellent example.
  2. and good luck getting any more out of it. It might be able to squeak 12, but as others have said, all that "flare" has to go. And the Auto Zone air cleaner.
  3. Thanks guys. Lance, it’s all good. It’s been 2 weeks now, and things were already in motion.
  4. Me too! The last 2 weeks were taken up by Mom's passing. I am leaving for Cancun tomorrow morning...so maybe two more weeks before another update 😁
  5. If the vacuum diaphragm fails in the oil pump, the engine vacuum will suck oil up through the wiper motor and into the intake manifold, causing smoke to come out of the exhaust. I had this happen to me on my 58. It was only coming out of the left side exhaust. I thought I blew a head gasket. Thankfully Gene Reynolds was near by and "fixed" my problem by plugging that side of the wiper motor. The smoke cleared up in about 30 minutes.
  6. Did you have the wiper motor connected to the oil/vacuum pump when the smoking started?
  7. I could see that the shoes were wearing only in one spot about an inch wide on the shoes. It was also glaringly obvious that they were mis-matched to the drums when I placed them inside. I had checked them visually with the front drums when I replaced them before, but the fronts are fine. I guess you know what happens when you ASSume. This repair will be under $100, so hopefully it makes a big improvement. The last thing I want to do is deal with the MC/booster again.
  8. I had checked the fronts, and they are still ok....the lining guy agreed today that they don't need work. Rears are a different story, though. I had neglected to check them when I did the fronts. I dropped the rears off this afternoon. He is going to machine the shoes to fit the rear drums.
  9. I pulled the left rear drum off today, and the shoe is not even close to the right arc. After some research, I wasn't interested in spending $400 plus shipping on a new set of 4 drums. I found a local place about 40 minutes away that will re-arc shoes to drums. He basically replaces the shoes with a size that is thicker and matches the circumference of the newly turned drums. It will be about 2 weeks I think before I can confirm if this fixes things.
  10. Gets me every time...that heater delete! Great progress...thanking my lucky stars I didn't get to deal with the trunk lid.🤣
  11. LOL Yeah, since this forum is still here, I assume this is exempt.
  12. The notice came up when I was cruising on my phone and I just clicked I accept and moved on. Didn't even read it.
  13. Fenders are in polyester primer, and I blocked the hood as well. It already has a really nice layer of (fairly new) paint, so I am just running over it with a block to smooth it out. It's amazing how wavy it is, since it looked great before I touched it.
  14. Hypothetical question: Assuming I have good flow to the rear brakes when I bleed them, I can see a small kink in the line going along the torque tube. It doesn't APPEAR to hinder flow when I bleed...but could that be a factor in the poor feel on partial braking power? I have been told in the past that the "feel" of the brake pedal comes from the rear brakes. Dave, I am going to tackle the MC/booster again if the shoes and new brake hardware don't fix the problem. The used on I have from the local member is an original that hasn't been rebuilt yet. So, hopefully thos
  15. I do have an additional MC/booster that a local member brought over the other day. The parts car isn't here anymore.
  16. Ok...lots to process there LOL I’ve done a bunch of these without any adverse issues like I’m experiencing here now. Oddly enough, I experienced the same pedal feel with the original one, the rebuilt original one, and the rebuilt one from the parts car. And I know the one on the parts car was working on it before I pulled it off of there. All I have done with either of those vacuum cylinders and plungers is just clean and lube them. I believe I also replaced the rubber vacuum line because it seemed a bit loose at the connections. And I believe I used trans fluid on
  17. Full manifold vacuum. Booster is working well.
  18. I started on repairing front sheet metal today. Someone had clearanced a little bit of the hood inner structure for what I'm assuming was an air cleaner...so I had to cut out a good piece from one of the trashed hoods we have here and graft it in. Same for the spring on the front of the hood. The good hood we have came from a 72...so it's gotta go. I also have worked the fenders to where I can weld the inner edges back up. I'll take care of that tomorrow.
  19. Ok...this one is still labeled asphalt, but is not as "shiny" as the other one I linked. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-feet-1-2-I-D-ASPHALT-CLOTH-WIRE-LOOM-ORIGINAL-RESTORATION-CONDUIT-VINTAGE/183013559435?hash=item2a9c754c8b:g:1W0AAOSwRTVaWEdE
  20. https://www.ebay.com/itm/OLD-SCHOOL-BRAIDED-CLOTH-ASPHALT-TAR-COATED-3-8-IDX10-WIRING-SHEATH-LOOM-COVER-/252386402295
  21. Those holes are drilled out welds 😄 The brace that I cut the welds from was incorrectly welded in from the factory, as well as the top of the fender.
  22. Our plan to use original fenders didn't work out, so I am back to using the NOS/replacement fenders that came with it. They're really solid, so at least there's no rust to contend with. So today, I tackled the front sheet metal install and alignment...mostly to make corrections to the fenders. I loosely installed the fenders and core support, keeping the support-to-frame mounts loose so I could move that around, too. Once the RH fender looked good at the door, I moved to the LH fender. Then to the hood, using the hinges that will be installed on the car. I don't know if that really makes a
  23. Front raybestos shoes ordered...and brake hardware also ordered. Crossing fingers.
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