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Everything posted by Smartin

  1. You can use a mity vac to pull a vacuum on the advance unit to see if it physically moves. This is also a good way to see if it holds vacuum, or if it bleeds off quickly.
  2. Aluminized: Stainless:
  3. wonder the NOS one I had sold for mucho $$
  4. I was able to get all of the fuel and brake lines installed this morning....except the two small hard lines that connect the front brake hoses to the wheel cylinders. Apparently, those are a separate item in the "drum brake line kit" from Inline. WHY...I have no idea. Other than that, all hard lines are installed. The chassis is in the house garage right's fun running back and forth from garage to garage because you need a tool.
  5. I did confirm that he got it from CARS. It almost looks like the guy who installed my buddy's installed it backwards...or inside out.
  6. I have a friend who recently installed his back glass in his Special. I'll reach out to him to see if he encountered this issue, and what they did to remedy it. I don't recall it having this issue when it was here. Looking at the video I took, there is something different about the seal he used....
  7. It might have caught me poorly if I found my car being picked apart on the forums... I now find myself rereading everything I type to make sure it doesn't come across wrong. I love this car....wish I could afford it! Good luck with the sale.
  8. I welded up the emblem holes in the trunk lid due to it coming from a Skylark. I'll have to locate and drill new holes for the GS emblem before paint. I hosed the second round of super build on this afternoon. Hopefully only one or two more rounds of this.
  9. While waiting on various dry and setup times on the body, I started on the doors and trunk lid... Krinkly paint!
  10. I have a hotel room booked...will see once it gets closer.
  11. On to body work! Holy cow, it is so much easier to do this with the body on a rotisserie. I can just move the car up or down depending on where I feel comfortable.
  12. After swapping the body shell back into the shop, I proceeded to work on removing the remainder of sand trapped all over the place after blasting. Most of it was in the rockers. Unfortunately, there is extremely limited access to these areas. I opened up a 3/4” hole in the rear wheel house to extract the sand. After looking into the hole with a flashlight, I found massive amounts of mouse nests. So out came the straightened coat hanger, a vacuum, and blow gun. 4 hours later, both rockers are cleaned well as the rest of the body. The photos posted are from only one side. Once that was done, I seam sealed the body. Tomorrow I start block sanding.
  13. It's back on the ground now. I took photos before putting on those lovely 30 year old whitewalls and rusty 14" rallyes though When I was installing the brakes, I screwed up and installed the left and right brake adjusters on the wrong sides. I went to do a preliminary adjustment and ended up tightening the adjuster all the way in...causing me to disassemble both sides to swap them. That's what I get for not double checking. Brake and fuel lines will be here sometime mid week. In the interim, I'll bring the body back in and start getting that ready. I don't imagine it'll take long to get it cleaned up and ready for paint. The doors and fenders are in pretty good shape, with the exception of two creases in one of the doors. I have a suspicion that the fenders are "flat tops" and will need some help there. Trunk lid is nice. Hood is exceptionally nice, but I'll have to make the spring disappear on the bottom side. Maybe end of February to see some color?
  14. I am nearly ready to get this thing back on the ground. I just have the front brakes to install. I ran out of steam and time this tomorrow morning I'll pick back up.
  15. I pulled the front upper control arm bits out and started fitting them together, and found out that the "faux" rivet kit from TPP for the upper ball joints is a total joke. The heads are so small they go nearly through the holes in the ball joints. Oddly enough, the size of the heads are correct if you install them upside down...but that's contrary to the idea of having the look of riveted ball joints. So I took the bolts that were supplied with the ball joints and ground them down until they resembled something like what was on there from the factory.! The big convex washers that came with the shaft kit for the upper control arm bushings had a gold cad-like finish on them. I'm pretty sure these were just zinc or silver cad originally, so I just took them to the buffer and zipped the gold coating off. Magic!
  16. Santa came today with a pile of parts! I made some progress on assembly, but not a ton. Santa didn't come until 4pm. I basically had everything ready to go beforehand, so I didn't miss a beat when they did come. Tomorrow, all bushings are pressed in, and hopefully this weekend I'll have the chassis on the ground.
  17. I believe it is the same box...but different blower housing and evaporator in/out routing. The photos you posted with the 58 Special AC...the covering is insulation. It flakes off pretty easily.
  18. If you have wheel skates, set the drums on them and roll it out. Or just drag it out like a caveman. I assume you're going to be detailing it, so you'll have to be careful putting it back in.
  19. Smartin

    1957 76C

    Correct - I should have worded it this way - "I am suspicious that there was no bracing when those panels were replaced." I cannot assume just makes me wonder. It was my first gut feeling when you mentioned the door not fitting.😲
  20. Smartin

    1957 76C

    I dig the new steering wheel! I'm anxious to see what the situation is with the door alignment. Hopefully it's an easy fix. It concerns me that the floor and outer rocker were replaced and nothing was braced beforehand. It looks like progress is fast there...looking forward to updates!