Smartin

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Everything posted by Smartin

  1. All of my 57's an d 58's had shrouds...don't know of earlier ones.
  2. 1000 grit finished early this morning. Buzzed through the 2000 round, and then 3000 DA. Before I quit for the day, I ran the buffer over the RH door to get some motivation.
  3. I usually see around 5.5 volts, but I don’t think that has anything to do with the current problem.
  4. If the problem did not happen the next day, it is likely not a vacuum leak. I would look at replacing the t-stat with a 180, and replacing the temp sending unit while you're at it. Those are both pretty easy swaps. Don't go tearing the car apart without eliminating these simple things first.
  5. I have been busy with installing all the door guts, and rear window guts. Wiring harnesses, cleaning and painting other small parts. Time to take a break from that and start cutting and buffing this thing.
  6. That is not a 75. And he's showing a photo of a 57 Chevy fender like it will fit.
  7. Try these guys... https://speedometercablesusa.com/cables_and_housing_assembly.html Or these guys... http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/speedo.asp I believe either of them can make you a new cable.
  8. I assembled all of the hardware onto the new glass today. I got a hardware kit from Todd, which includes a good portion of new parts, but some I had to reuse from the old glass. I'm really glad we got new glass for this car. The old stuff was so scratched up and worn out...would've been a bummer to install it on such a nice car.
  9. It's the little things sometimes...
  10. I started installing door guts yesterday. I forget how much crap is bolted to these doors, until I have to remove ,clean, paint, grease, from the old door to the new door. The original glass to the car was really worn and scratched up. I ended up ordering a set of side glass from Auto City Classic. I had already ordered a windshield from Summit (Pilkington date coded). The side glass will be here in a couple weeks. Not sure on the windshield. Here's a really exciting picture of what appears to be no progress, but it represents about 6 hours of fiddling with parts and bolts. Thank god for Todd's fastener kit!
  11. It's called Spectra Chrome...Jay Leno featured it a few years ago on one of his short videos. A local guy that I know bought into it and offers it now. He wanted me to partner up as his painter but I don't have time for it. This is going to be a bit of a guinea pig project for both of us.
  12. Inner and outer AC boxes, and all associated doodads are cleaned up and installed. Still need to buy some flex duct to connect the boxes. The firewall insulation was a pain in the arse to get the pins through the firewall. Seemed like that took more time than anything else. All pedal assemblies are installed. I started to get some wiring in. Threaded the power window harnesses through the doors and roughly hung the dash harness. Mounted the fuse block and left everything else hanging for now...until I can get the instrument cluster back from my spray chrome guy.
  13. Let it sit for a few weeks, not days....before cutting and buffing. A month if you can handle waiting.
  14. That might be an understatement 😬 These parts are all from the parts car I bought last November in KS. It had a complete dashboard and AC system that this car needed badly. Pretty sure it was a complete mouse community before I got it.
  15. Now starts all the little fun stuff...
  16. When I painted the underside of the trunk lid, it seemed like it was a touch too green. I didn't pursue the issue until I could get it into some good light. Well, it was. So some adjustments were made at the supply store (thank god they were open yesterday) and we have what I can safely say is as close as I could get to the original color. There was some original paint left on the top inside of the doors, but it wasn't true to the color because it was somewhat thin. So, here we are. I shot the base late yesterday, and got up early this morning and hosed a bunch of clear on it. It's nice and sunny today, so that made for some good photo opportunities.
  17. I started using 3M dry guide coat to be able to see where I have been a lot easier. I hate getting a panel all dried off and finding that I have to do it all over again because I only got about 2/3 of the orange peel out.
  18. Looks like he vaulted his ceiling. The shortest QUALITY 2-post lift I could find was a Challenger SA10. My ceilings are just shy of 12', and I have about 2" of clearance after installed.
  19. FYI the Heartland regional meet is still on schedule in St. Louis Sept 10-12. https://stlouisbuickclub.net/
  20. I fixed the fender...got them both hung on the rotisserie ends in the position that they will hang on the car. Hoping for paint on Saturday evening into Sunday morning!
  21. 2 post lifts require 12' ceilings
  22. Looks great, Mud! Don't sweat the orange peel. It is never going to lay completely flat. For wet sanding, start with 1000 grit wrapped around a Durablock like the one in the photo I am attaching (using a block like this eliminates those "ripples" created when using your bare hands). Then move to 2000. Use your palm for the curved areas. If you want to go further, it just makes buffing easier. Depending on your buffing method, other grits may be used. But 3000 is as far as I go, on a DA hook and loop disc. I use a rotary buffer. I do see a lot of people moving to orbital buffers, but you basically have to go all the way to 5000 or 8000 grit on those. 3 good coats of clear should give you plenty of material to take off to completely eliminate the orange peel and any dust that got in.